WO1994012653A1 - Procede de preparation de pigments melaniques par bioconversion et utilisation des pigments obtenus en cosmetique - Google Patents
Procede de preparation de pigments melaniques par bioconversion et utilisation des pigments obtenus en cosmetique Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO1994012653A1 WO1994012653A1 PCT/FR1993/001138 FR9301138W WO9412653A1 WO 1994012653 A1 WO1994012653 A1 WO 1994012653A1 FR 9301138 W FR9301138 W FR 9301138W WO 9412653 A1 WO9412653 A1 WO 9412653A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- cells
- medium
- substrate
- bioconversion
- pigments
- Prior art date
Links
Classifications
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C12—BIOCHEMISTRY; BEER; SPIRITS; WINE; VINEGAR; MICROBIOLOGY; ENZYMOLOGY; MUTATION OR GENETIC ENGINEERING
- C12P—FERMENTATION OR ENZYME-USING PROCESSES TO SYNTHESISE A DESIRED CHEMICAL COMPOUND OR COMPOSITION OR TO SEPARATE OPTICAL ISOMERS FROM A RACEMIC MIXTURE
- C12P17/00—Preparation of heterocyclic carbon compounds with only O, N, S, Se or Te as ring hetero atoms
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
- A61K8/492—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid having condensed rings, e.g. indol
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- C09B—ORGANIC DYES OR CLOSELY-RELATED COMPOUNDS FOR PRODUCING DYES, e.g. PIGMENTS; MORDANTS; LAKES
- C09B69/00—Dyes not provided for by a single group of this subclass
- C09B69/10—Polymeric dyes; Reaction products of dyes with monomers or with macromolecular compounds
- C09B69/104—Polymeric dyes; Reaction products of dyes with monomers or with macromolecular compounds containing an indole dye, including melanine derivates
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/42—Colour properties
- A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a process for preparing melanin pigments by bioconversion, the pigments obtained and their use in the field of cosmetics.
- colored pigments are essentially mineral pigments or else pigments derived from direct synthetic dyes and, in the case of black pigments, from pure carbon.
- the present invention relates to a process for the preparation of melanin pigments by enzymatic bioconversion, using a melanin precursor substrate and plant cells.
- poppy plant cells Paper somniferum
- a culture medium at a concentration ranging from 10 to 100 g 1
- the cells are ground less partially, before or at the end latency time
- c) the at least partially crushed cells are brought into contact, in a bioconversion medium, with a melanin precursor substrate chosen from indole, indoline, dihydroxyphenylalanine, tyramine and tyrosine, d ) the precipitated melanin pigment is recovered.
- undifferentiated poppy cells are cultured in vitro in a usual culture medium. After a sufficient growth time, the cells are separated from their medium, for example by filtration. The duration of the cell growth time is of no importance on the process and depends in particular on the quantity of cells which it is desired to obtain.
- Heller's medium can be used. This medium may optionally also contain vitamins and / or hormones.
- undifferentiated poppy cells cell cultures derived from whole plant fragments, decontaminated and placed on solid culture media chosen so that the cells multiply there without giving rise to organized tissue forms. These cells are then transferred to liquid media where their growth takes place by simple cell multiplication. These cultures are comparable to those of bacteria.
- the cells obtained are subcultured in a usual culture medium, at a concentration of cellular fresh material of 10 to 100 g / l.
- a usual culture medium As culture medium for transplanting, a new culture medium is used. Heller's medium can also be used for transplanting, possibly containing vitamins and / or hormones.
- the cells are maintained in this medium for a duration less than or equal to the latency time.
- the latency time is the time necessary for a freshly transplanted cell to adapt to the environment and during which the cell concentration remains constant before growing in it.
- the latency time is the time necessary for a freshly transplanted cell to adapt to the environment and during which the cell concentration remains constant before growing in it.
- the concentration remains substantially identical to the initial concentration - the cells are in the latency period - then the concentration increases significantly when the lag time is over; the cells are then passed to the growth stage. Depending on the strain used, this lag time can vary between 6 hours and 7 days.
- the cells are preferably ground to obtain a ground cell.
- Cell crushing can be carried out in the culture medium itself, but it is preferable beforehand to isolate the cells, by filtration, for example.
- To obtain the cell ground material it is possible to use conventional means such as a Potter or Ultra Turrax grinder.
- the grinding takes place at low temperature, and in particular between 0 and 15 ° C.
- the cell ground material is brought into contact with the melanin precursor substrate chosen from indole, indoline, dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA), tyramine and tyrosine.
- DOPA dihydroxyphenylalanine
- tyramine tyramine
- tyrosine Preferably, the contact takes place at a temperature between 10 and 70 ° C.
- the bioconversion medium can consist of the cell ground material.
- the cell ground material can also be taken up in demineralized water or in a buffered solution. In this case, the pH is preferably chosen between 3 and 9.
- the reaction is carried out by bringing the substrate and the cell ground material into contact, preferably in a buffered medium, the concentration of substrate being able to vary within wide limits and being a function of its solubility in the aqueous medium.
- the reaction is preferably carried out with stirring.
- the concentration of substrate is generally between 10 mg and 2 g per liter of buffered solution containing 20 to 200 g of fresh cellular matter.
- the concentration of substrate can be increased by dissolving it in an organic solvent miscible with water, such as ethanol.
- the reaction time is variable and depends in particular on the substrate, the temperature of reaction and pH of the medium.
- a black precipitate appears after 30 minutes to 24 hours.
- the precipitated pigment can be recovered by decantation, filtration or centrifugation or any other suitable means of separation.
- the filtrate can be recovered and the operation repeated by adding substrate to it, under the conditions described above.
- it is filtered through a screen whose meshes have a dimension of less than 5 ⁇ , in particular in order to rid the pigments of protein residues.
- the melanin pigment obtained can then be washed with ethanol and then with water in order to remove the melanin precursor.
- the pigments obtained, optionally washed and dried, are particularly useful in the field of cosmetics, for the preparation of makeup products, of sun composition or even of hair coloring composition. They can be introduced for these applications in a cosmetically acceptable medium based on water and / or a mixture of water and organic solvent or of one or more solvent (s), and optionally comprising other usual additives in cosmetics. , for example surfactants, thickeners, preservatives.
- the melanin pigment can be deposited on an inorganic filler made up of inert particles, having a usual particle size for these supports, for example a particle size less than 20 ⁇ m, and preferably 10 ⁇ m.
- the pigment can be deposited and / or absorbed on mineral particles in lamellar or non-lamellar form, organic lamellar or non-lamellar form, colored or not. These particles have an average particle size of between 0.01 and 200 ⁇ m.
- Colored powders are thus obtained which can be used in cosmetics.
- This colored powder can be prepared by dispersing the inorganic or organic particles in the solution of melanic precursor and of cell ground material where the above bioconversion takes place.
- the powder containing the pigment is separated, for example by filtration, after the reaction time necessary for the formation of the melanin pigments, and it is washed with water and dried.
- These powders can also be prepared by absorption of the melanin pigment prepared according to the invention on and / or in the mineral or organic particles defined above.
- mineral fillers particles of calcium carbonate, silica or titanium oxide having the particle size defined above.
- particles of polymers derived from keratin, optionally modified, polymers derived from chitin, optionally deacetylated, from silk fibroin, from synthetic polymers chosen from crosslinked polymethyl methacrylate, poly- ⁇ are preferably used.
- These particles have a particle size preferably greater than 0.1 ⁇ m.
- the lamellar particles are mineral or organic particles in the form of sheets, possibly laminated. These sheets are characterized by a smaller thickness than the largest dimension. Preferably, the ratio between the largest dimension and the thickness is between 2 and 100. The largest dimension is generally less than 100 ⁇ m.
- Undifferentiated poppy cells are cultured in vitro at 26 ° C in the following media defined below:
- Morel vitamins is meant a mixture comprising, per 100 ml:
- Nicotinic acid 0.050 g
- the cells After a growth time allowing the concentration of cells to reach 400 g / l of the medium, the cells are recovered by filtration over 50 ⁇ m.
- the cells obtained in the first stage are subcultured in an identical culture medium at 4 ° C. at a rate of 50 g 1. After a lag time varying between 1 to 2 days, the cells are filtered.
- the cells are crushed at 4 ° C. in a Potter.
- the ground material is taken up in a buffered medium with a pH between 6.5 and 7, at a rate of approximately 1 g of cell per 10 ml of buffer solution.
- the RPE spectrum reveals a maximum absorption at 3470 Gauss.
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- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Organic Chemistry (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Zoology (AREA)
- Wood Science & Technology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Biochemistry (AREA)
- Bioinformatics & Cheminformatics (AREA)
- General Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Genetics & Genomics (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Preparation Of Compounds By Using Micro-Organisms (AREA)
- Micro-Organisms Or Cultivation Processes Thereof (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Claims
Priority Applications (5)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
US08/256,576 US5571700A (en) | 1992-11-20 | 1993-11-19 | Process for preparing melanin pigments by bioconversion and use of the pigments obtained in cosmetics |
JP51283794A JP3416135B2 (ja) | 1992-11-20 | 1993-11-19 | 生物的変換によるメラニン色素の調製方法および生成色素の化粧品への利用 |
DE69328770T DE69328770T2 (de) | 1992-11-20 | 1993-11-19 | Verfahren zur herstellung von melaninpigmente durch biokonversion |
AT94900857T ATE193556T1 (de) | 1992-11-20 | 1993-11-19 | Verfahren zur herstellung von melaninpigmente durch biokonversion |
EP94900857A EP0627008B1 (fr) | 1992-11-20 | 1993-11-19 | Procede de preparation de pigments melaniques par bioconversion |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR92/14000 | 1992-11-20 | ||
FR9214000A FR2698376B1 (fr) | 1992-11-20 | 1992-11-20 | Procédé de préparation de pigments mélaniques par bioconversion et utilisation des pigments obtenus en cosmétique. |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
WO1994012653A1 true WO1994012653A1 (fr) | 1994-06-09 |
Family
ID=9435763
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/FR1993/001138 WO1994012653A1 (fr) | 1992-11-20 | 1993-11-19 | Procede de preparation de pigments melaniques par bioconversion et utilisation des pigments obtenus en cosmetique |
Country Status (8)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US5571700A (fr) |
EP (1) | EP0627008B1 (fr) |
JP (1) | JP3416135B2 (fr) |
AT (1) | ATE193556T1 (fr) |
CA (1) | CA2128226A1 (fr) |
DE (1) | DE69328770T2 (fr) |
FR (1) | FR2698376B1 (fr) |
WO (1) | WO1994012653A1 (fr) |
Families Citing this family (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
RU2069697C1 (ru) * | 1996-03-12 | 1996-11-27 | Лях Светлана Павловна | Продуцент противоопухолевого меланинсодержащего препарата "астромеланин" |
JP4955920B2 (ja) * | 2004-12-08 | 2012-06-20 | 花王株式会社 | 染毛剤組成物 |
US11109589B2 (en) | 2016-06-09 | 2021-09-07 | Council Of Scientific And Industrial Research | Process for preparing a homogeneous solution of a polymer and melanin |
CN109260071B (zh) * | 2018-09-17 | 2021-06-15 | 西安理工大学 | 一种全天然酶发酵黑色染发剂的制备方法 |
CN113372735B (zh) * | 2021-05-28 | 2023-06-20 | 浙江理工大学 | 一种光诱导高效制备黑色素的方法 |
Citations (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
LU83173A1 (fr) * | 1981-02-27 | 1981-06-05 | Oreal | Nouvelles compositions cosmetiques pour le traitement des cheveux et de la peau contenant une poudre resultant de la pulverisation d'au moins une plante et un agent de cohesion |
EP0467767A1 (fr) * | 1990-07-16 | 1992-01-22 | L'oreal | Produit à base de particules lamellaires comportant un pigment mélanique et son procédé de préparation |
Family Cites Families (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
USRE33993E (en) * | 1981-02-27 | 1992-07-14 | Societe Anonyme Dite: L'oreal | Cosmetic composition for the treatment of the hair and skin comprising a powder of flowers or flower tops and a cohesion agent |
LU86946A1 (fr) * | 1987-07-17 | 1989-03-08 | Oreal | Poudre ultrafine comportant des pigments melaniques,son procede de preparation et son utilisation en cosmetique |
-
1992
- 1992-11-20 FR FR9214000A patent/FR2698376B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
1993
- 1993-11-19 JP JP51283794A patent/JP3416135B2/ja not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1993-11-19 EP EP94900857A patent/EP0627008B1/fr not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1993-11-19 US US08/256,576 patent/US5571700A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1993-11-19 DE DE69328770T patent/DE69328770T2/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1993-11-19 AT AT94900857T patent/ATE193556T1/de not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1993-11-19 WO PCT/FR1993/001138 patent/WO1994012653A1/fr active IP Right Grant
- 1993-11-19 CA CA002128226A patent/CA2128226A1/fr not_active Abandoned
Patent Citations (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
LU83173A1 (fr) * | 1981-02-27 | 1981-06-05 | Oreal | Nouvelles compositions cosmetiques pour le traitement des cheveux et de la peau contenant une poudre resultant de la pulverisation d'au moins une plante et un agent de cohesion |
EP0467767A1 (fr) * | 1990-07-16 | 1992-01-22 | L'oreal | Produit à base de particules lamellaires comportant un pigment mélanique et son procédé de préparation |
Non-Patent Citations (2)
Title |
---|
CHEMICAL ABSTRACTS, vol. 102, no. 5, 4 February 1985, Columbus, Ohio, US; abstract no. 43036H, SEILER, G.J. ET AL.: "Prevalence of phytomelanin in pericarps of sunflower parental lines and wild species." page 326; * |
CROP SCI., vol. 24, no. 6, 1984, pages 1202 - 1204 * |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
ATE193556T1 (de) | 2000-06-15 |
EP0627008A1 (fr) | 1994-12-07 |
JP3416135B2 (ja) | 2003-06-16 |
JPH07503144A (ja) | 1995-04-06 |
FR2698376B1 (fr) | 1995-02-24 |
DE69328770D1 (de) | 2000-07-06 |
FR2698376A1 (fr) | 1994-05-27 |
US5571700A (en) | 1996-11-05 |
CA2128226A1 (fr) | 1994-06-09 |
EP0627008B1 (fr) | 2000-05-31 |
DE69328770T2 (de) | 2000-10-26 |
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