Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/14—Liposomes; Vesicles
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition intended to be added to the water of a bath for caring for the skin.
• vesicles from certain amphiphilic lipids, that is to say lipids whose molecules consist of a lipophilic part and a hydrophilic part.
• the vesicles obtained are delimited by a lipid phase membrane formed from a sheet or from several concentric sheets, said membrane defining a closed internal volume in which a phase, encapsulated phase is encapsulated.
• the vesicles are generally prepared in the form of a dispersion in an aqueous phase, called the dispersion phase.
• the amphiphilic lipids of the lipid phase can be ionic lipids such as natural (egg, soy lecithin) or synthetic (dipalmitoyllecithin, hydrogenated egg lecithin) lecithins.
• the amphiphilic lipids can also be nonionic lipids such as linear or branched polyglycerol derivatives, linear or branched polyglycerol ethers, polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, polyoxyethylenated sterols, polyol ethers, esters of oxyethylenated polyols or not , glycolipids, or certain hydroxyamides.
• the lipid phase may, in known manner, contain one or more ionic amphiphilic lipids, one or more nonionic amphiphilic lipids or, at the same time, at least one ionic amphiphilic lipid and at least one nonionic amphiphilic lipid.
• additives into the lipid phase - which have the function of reducing the permeability of the vesicular membranes and of improving the stability of said membranes.
• additives are generally chosen from sterols and anionic stabilizers.
• a cosmetic composition intended to be introduced into the bath water must have properties of 1 self-dispersing such as to allow its easy mixing with the bath water and, therefore, the rapid achievement a uniform distribution of said composition throughout the bath water.
• the cosmetic composition must be stable over time, that is to say during storage.
• the present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition intended to be added to the water of a bath for caring for the skin, comprising, in an aqueous dispersion phase, a dispersion of vesicles, the membrane of which is consisting of a lipid phase containing at least one ionic amphiphilic lipid and / or at least one nonionic amphiphilic lipid, characterized in that the aqueous dispersion phase contains at least one compound of formula
• R'-OE-RO ⁇ R "(i) formula in which R is an alkylene radical, linear or branched, in C2-C3, R 'and R", identical or different, are H or an alkyl radical in C1-C4 and n is an integer between 1 and 3 inclusive, the weight ratio between the lipid phase of the vesicles and the whole (or) compound (s) of formula (I) contained in the dispersion phase being between 0.25 and 2.5. This weight ratio is preferably between 0.5 and 1.5.
• the Applicant has, in fact, found that, when the weight ratio [lipid phase / compound (s) of formula (I)) is less than 0.25, the composition is no longer stable on storage and that, when this ratio is greater than 2.5, the compositions no longer have suitable properties of utodispersion in the bath.
• the compounds of formula (I) are therefore mono-, di- or trialkylene glycols or mono- or diethers of mono-, di- or trialkylene glycol.
• the compounds of formula (I) are preferably chosen from the group formed by ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, the monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol and diethylene glycol and the monomethyl ethers of propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.
• At least one compound of formula (I) can also be contained in the aqueous phase encapsulated by the vesicular membranes.
• the composition according to the invention contains from 0.5 to 20% and, preferably, from 2 to 18% by weight of compound (s) of formula (I) relative to the total weight of the composition.
• all the ionic and / or nonionic amphiphilic lipids capable of forming stable vesicles, alone or in admixture with additives having the function of reducing the permeability of the membranes of the vesicles and of improving their stability can be used to constitute the lipid membranes of the vesicles of the compositions according to the invention.
• nonionic amphiphilic lipids are used.
• nonionic amphiphilic lipids which can be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned: (1) polyglycerol derivatives, linear or branched, of formula
• . 5 is an average statistical value between 1 and 6;
• R ° represents:
• R ⁇ can take the meaning " (a) or (b) given for R ⁇ ;
• R3 is represented by the following structures, taken in mixture or separately: - CH - and - 0-CH 2 -CH- where R3 takes the meaning (a) given for R ° •
• polyglycerol ethers linear or branched, comprising two fatty chains
• R ⁇ denotes a C7-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical
• R5 denotes a C7-C31 saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical
• B is an alkyl radical derived from primary or secondary, mono- or polyhydroxylated amines
• R6 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl or hydroxyethyl radical
• R7 represents a linear Ci4-Cjg alkyl radical or a group -CH 2 A in which A is -OR14, R14 representing a linear alkyl radical in CJO at Ci 8 and, preferably in C ⁇ 6, and n represents either an average statistical value greater than 1 and at most equal to 3, or else, when R7 represents -CH 2 A, a value equal to 2.
• ionic amphiphilic lipids which can be used, mention may be made of:
• - natural phospholipids such as egg or soy lecithin, or sphyngomyelin, chemically or enzymatically modified phospholipids, such as hydrogenated lecithin and synthetic phospholipids such as dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine; - anionic compounds such as those represented by the formula
• Rg represents a C7-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical.
• R9 represents a C7-C31 saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, and
• M represents H, Na, K, NH4 or a substituted ammonium ion derived from an amine
• R and R identical or different, representing alkyl radicals, C 2 - C 2 0 and R 2 and R 13, identical or different alkyl radicals in C - C4;
• amphiphilic lipid are associated with at least one stabilizing additive having for function of reducing the permeability of the vesicle membrane and / or of improving the stability of the vesicles.
• stabilizing additive having for function of reducing the permeability of the vesicle membrane and / or of improving the stability of the vesicles.
• sterols and their derivatives for example oxyethylenated, more particularly cholesterol, acid cholesterol sulfate and its alkaline salts and acid cholesterol phosphate and its alkaline salts,
• - phosphoric esters of fatty alcohols for example diketylphosphate and dimyristylphosphate in the form of acids or alkaline salts
• - alkylsulfates for example sodium cetylsulfate
• polymers such as polypeptides and proteins.
• any liposobluble active agent can be used insofar as it is useful in bath compositions and where it does not destroy the stability of the vesicles.
• liposoluble active agents which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lipoprotides and, in particular, lipoprotides free of sulfhydryl function chosen from mono- or polyacylated derivatives of amino acids or of polypeptides, in which the acyl residue R14-CO comprises a C14-C19 hydrocarbon chain R14, at least one of the functions which links the polypeptide chain or the amino acid residue to the lipophilic chain being an amide function, the carboxylic functions of the polypeptide chain or of the amino residue acid which can be partially or totally neutralized by one or more alkaline cations, an ammonium ion or a substituted ammonium derived from an amine.
• the lipid phase constituting the membrane of the vesicles generally contains from 1 to 80% and, preferably, from 10 to 40% by weight of ionic and / or non-ionic amphiphilic lipid (s).
• phase encapsulated in the vesicles is an aqueous phase
• water-soluble compounds useful in bath compositions will be chosen, such as glycerin, vitamin complexes, seaweed extracts and menthol.
• Amphiphilic active agents can be distributed between the lipid phase and the encapsulated aqueous phase or between the lipid phase and the aqueous dispersion phase.
• the aqueous dispersion phase and the encapsulated aqueous phase are preferably constituted by water.
• the aqueous dispersion phase may contain, in a known manner, like the encapsulated aqueous phase, at least one cosmetically active water-soluble compound such as humectants and polymers. It can also, in known manner, contain a dispersion of droplets, of at least one compound immiscible with water, stabilized by the vesicles of ionic and / or non-ionic amphiphilic lipid (s) (s).
• These water-immiscible compounds may be mineral or vegetable oils, optionally oxyethylenated, natural or synthetic essential oils, esters of fatty acids, mono-, di- or triglycerides of long-chain fatty acids or silicone oils.
• the lipid phase constituting the membrane of the vesicles advantageously represents from 1 to 16%, preferably from 2 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the composition advantageously contains from 0.5 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 11%, by weight of ionic and / or non-ionic amphiphilic lipid (s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the stabilizing additive for the lipid phase advantageously represents less than 8%, preferably from 0.1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the dispersed vesicles advantageously have an average diameter of between 10 and 1000 nm.
• the viscosity of the composition is advantageously between 20 and 100 Pa.s.
• the dispersion of vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic amphiphilic lipid (s) can be carried out by any known method.
• the compound of formula (I) is added to the aqueous dispersion phase after preparation of the vesicles if it is desired that the aqueous dispersion phase alone contains the compound (s) of formula (I).
• the compound (s) of formula (I) is (are) introduced into the aqueous phase brought into contact with the lipid phase if it is desired for said encapsulated aqueous phase to contain a compound (s) of formula (I).
• composition can be introduced into the bath water in variable amounts. Amounts in the region of 1 g per liter of bath water give satisfactory results.
• a mixture of 3.8 g of non-ionic lipid of formula is melted, with gentle agitation at a temperature of 90-95 ° C.
• n is an average statistical value equal to 3, and where -C3__; (OH) 0- is represented by the following structures taken in mixture or separately: with 3.8 g of cholesterol and 0.4 g of the monosodium salt of glutamate of formula:
• R is a mixture of C 14 -C 22 hydrogenated alkenyl and / or alkyl radicals derived from tallow fatty acids, sold under the trade name "ACYLGLUTAMATE HS 11" by the company "AJINOMOTO”.
• 16 g of water brought to 90 ° C. containing a preservative are introduced into the molten mixture and mixed for approximately 6 to 8 minutes by means of an "ULTRA TURRAX" agitator.
• 24 g of water are added at room temperature, then the mixture is homogenized with "ULTRA TURRAX” for a further 6 to 8 minutes before allowing the mixture to return to room temperature.
• 16 g of propylene glycol are added while stirring with "ULTRA TURRAX" for 5 min. Then an aqueous solution containing preservatives and a dye is added (with magnetic stirring) to make up to 100 g.
• the weight ratio lipid phase / compound of formula (I) is 0.5.
• This composition has good storage stability. When added to the water of a bath at a rate of approximately 1 g per liter of water, there is perfect self-dispersibility. The regular use of this composition as an additive to a bath gives great softness to the skin of the user.
• EXAMPLE 2
• Example 3 A composition is prepared as in Example 1, replacing 16 g of propylene glycol with 8 g of propylene glycol. In the composition, the weight ratio lipid phase / compound of formula (I) is 1. The composition obtained has the same advantages as that of Example 1.
• EXAMPLE 3 A composition is prepared as in Example 1, replacing 16 g of propylene glycol with 8 g of propylene glycol. In the composition, the weight ratio lipid phase / compound of formula (I) is 1. The composition obtained has the same advantages as that of Example 1. EXAMPLE 3:
• a composition is prepared as in Example 1, replacing 16 g of propylene glycol with 4 g of propylene glycol. In the composition, the weight ratio lipid phase / compound of formula (I) is 2. The composition obtained has the same advantages as that of Example 1.
• EXAMPLE 4 A composition is prepared as in Example 1 in replacing the nonionic lipid of Example 1 with a nonionic lipid of formula
• a composition is prepared as in Example 1, the essential oils being added at the same time as the dipropylene glycol.
• lipid phase consisting of a mixture of 3.8 g of nonionic lipids of formula, are melted, with gentle agitation at a temperature of 80-90 ° C.
• - C 3 H 5 (0H) 0 ⁇ consists of a mixture of radicals: -CH 2 - CH0- -CH— CH 2 0- and I
• .___ 0-C 2 H 3 (R) - consists of a mixture of radicals: -0- -
• R is a mixture of radicals C 4H29 and C16H33 with 0.2 g of dimyristylphosphate.
• EXAMPLE 7 A composition is prepared as in Example 1, the oils being added at the same time as dipropylene glycol.
• a composition is prepared as in Example 1, the oils being added at the same time as dipropylene glycol.
• a first step 1.6 g of polyoxyethylenated phytosterol containing 5 moles of ethylene oxide sold by the company "NIKKO” are melted with gentle agitation at a temperature of 85 ° C. name “GENEROL 122 E 5". Then 2.4 g of hydrogenated lecithin 30-35% by weight of hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, sold by the company “NIKKO” under the name “LECINOL S 10", are added to the molten mixture, until perfect homogenization (5 mn).

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• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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Citations (3)

• 1992
  • 1992-01-29 FR FR9200939A patent/FR2686509A1/fr active Granted
  • 1992-12-17 EP EP93902340A patent/EP0624086B1/fr not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1992-12-17 CA CA 2128868 patent/CA2128868A1/fr not_active Abandoned
  • 1992-12-17 ES ES93902340T patent/ES2085140T3/es not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1992-12-17 DE DE69209321T patent/DE69209321T2/de not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 1992-12-17 WO PCT/FR1992/001195 patent/WO1993014738A1/fr not_active Ceased
  • 1992-12-17 JP JP5512962A patent/JP2549497B2/ja not_active Expired - Lifetime

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