WO1992015277A1

WO1992015277A1 - Cosmetic compositions for make-up and make-up removal

Info

Publication number: WO1992015277A1
Application number: PCT/FR1992/000184
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jean-Claude Bague; Eliane Lauzanne-Morelle; Jean Morelle
Original assignee: Bague Jean Claude; Lauzanne Morelle Eliane; Jean Morelle
Priority date: 1991-03-01
Filing date: 1992-02-28
Publication date: 1992-09-17
Also published as: FR2673373B1; EP0528014A1; JPH05506460A; FR2673373A1

Abstract

A cosmetic composition used for make-up or make-up removal contains, as active agent helping fix the colourings, 2 to 25 % by weight of a compound produced by associating a saturated or unsaturated C14 to C22 fatty acid either with a basic amino acid without water elimination or with a biological base with water elimination. This composition may be either a make-up cosmetic giving much improved fixation of colouring agents to the skin, or may be a make-up removal cosmetic for cleaning a skin surface treated with said make-up cosmetic, in order to remove the colouring agents.

Description

COSMETIC MAKE-UP AND MAKE-UP REMOVAL COMPOSITIONS

The present invention relates to new makeup compositions, comprising fatty acid / basic amino acid associations, involved in the fixation of water-soluble coloring matters on the skin.

The present invention relates, in particular, to new makeup products such as: lipsticks, lip pencils, eye products such as mascaras and eye liners, as well as foundations, the dyes of which are water-soluble, with fixing improved and more sustainable; it also relates to make-up removal preparations intended for the removal of the products listed above.

It is known that the fixing of coloring matters contained in make-up products, and in particular those intended for the lips, poses a certain number of problems.

To date, two types of lipsticks are known:

those called "indelible", characterized by the presence of water-soluble dyes such as bromofluoresceins (auramine, rhodamine etc.), solubilized by polyalcohols such as glycols or glycerol. This type of lipstick has the disadvantages of being devoid of emollient action and drying out the lips.

those called "fatty", which, unlike the first, do not dry out the lips but cannot fix the coloring matter, which leads to rapid elimination of the coloration of the mucosa and by more or less significant colored traces when an object such as a glass, a cup or a towel is brought to the mouth.

So far, we have never succeeded in obtaining a lipstick having a satisfactory emollient power, that is to say "greasy" endowed with a high fixing power on the mucous membrane of the lips.

To obtain this fundamental condition giving the lipstick the desired qualities, it is essential to combine two antagonistic effects: one, hydrophilic, allowing the lasting fixing of the coloring matter; the other, lipophilic, in order to obtain the essential emollient character, by the use of various fatty substances. However, it is well known that the dominant lipophilic character prevents the fixing of the coloring matters dissolved in hydrophilic media such as polyalcohols for example. It is also essential that after applying a lipstick, for example, the whole fatty substance / coloring matter is fixed on the mucosa for a time of between four hours and twenty-four hours, this only because of the load of coloring matter.

Has the use of various water-soluble coloring matters in cosmetic products been known for a long time, including in lipsticks? this is the case of American patent N ° 3,873,687, claiming the dispersion of water-soluble dyes in fatty media, or of French patent N ° 1,459,818 concerning the use of so-called beauty creams, these patents not mentioning special means for fixing the coloring matter in a fatty medium. To obtain good fixing of the water-soluble coloring matters, it has been found, unexpectedly, that certain biological molecules of basic character, combined with fatty chains, make it possible to obtain lipsticks with high fixing power of the coloring matter. sure. the lips, while retaining the fatty character of this type of production.

What has been said about lipsticks applies in the same way to the other types of cosmetic products listed above, in which it is necessary to incorporate dyes.

The present invention relates, firstly, to make-up products with a high capacity for fixing dyes to the skin, characterized in that they contain, as active agent intervening in the fixing of dyes, from 2 to 25%. , by weight, of a compound resulting from the association of a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, from C ₁₄ to C ₂₂ , either without leaving water, with a basic amino acid, or with leaving water, with an organic base. As the basic amino acid, use will preferably be made of lysine or arginine. As the biological base, use will preferably be made of choline. Preferably, the content of active agent will be between 5 and 20%.

However, arginine salts of fatty acids can only be used in the absence of pigments or lacquers, due to incompatibilities with this type of coloring matter. It will therefore be advisable, in this case, to be limited to the fatty acid salts of lysine.

The fatty acid / basic amino acid associations are salts obtained, without leaving water, corresponding to the following formula: R .. -COOH, H ² NR, - COOH

in which R _χ represents a saturated or unsaturated fatty chain comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms and R ₂ , the hydrocarbon chain of lysine or arginine, or even the guanidyl fraction of the latter.

In the case of the combination of a fatty acid with a biological base such as, for example, choline, there will, on the contrary, be a conventional salification reaction, either from choline base, or from bicarbonate of cholide, which leads to the following formula:

R -.1 .-- COO-CH ² -CH ² -Nι- (CH ³ ) ³

OH

in which R ₁ represents the fatty chain defined above. Preferably, oleic or ricinoleic acid will be used because of the emollient nature of this type of fatty acids.

These fatty acid / basic amino acid associations have been indicated as having antioxidant properties by French Patent No. 2,587,900, which means that it is not necessary to provide other additives with antioxidant action.

The present invention has a first advantage, which is to solve a problem which has not been possible so far, that is to say the lasting fixation of dyes on the mucous membranes of the lips or on the skin thanks to the 'incorporation in a fat mass, water-soluble coloring matters which can be dissolved by certain fatty salts of basic amino acids or choline. The present invention has a second advantage, that of fixing to the skin, including the lips in particular, not only the water-soluble dyes, but also of allowing a fixing of the lacquers and pigments, this contrary to what we knew how to do until here.

The advantage of a better fixing of dyes, lacquers and pigments has for counterpart a difficulty of make-up removal, if one resorts to the usual make-up removers. However, make-up removal is obtained without difficulty using lotions or solutions containing a sufficient quantity of the same agent as defined above for fixing the dyes, lacquers and pigments.

The present invention therefore also relates to compositions intended for eliminating all coloring matters fixed on the skin, such as those used for make-up or for hair dyes and containing, as active agent, from 2 to 25% by weight of a compound resulting from the association of a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid from C ₁₄ to C ₂₂ , either without leaving water with a basic amino acid, or with leaving water, with a biological base. Preferably, the content of active agent will be of the order of 10%. These compositions will be in liquid form such as solutions, lotions, milks or the like.

The makeup products according to the invention such as lipsticks and lip pencils, products for the eyes, mascara in particular, will be obtained by dissolving the water-soluble dyes in the combinations described by the invention to constitute a colored hydrophilic base and in incorporating an appropriate amount of said base into various varied media consisting of different fatty substances: vegetable or mineral waxes, vegetable oils, to form the desired cosmetic product. To increase the emollient action, in the formula indicated, ricinoleic acid is preferred to oleic acid. The products will be protected against oxidation if the associated basic fraction is lysine, arginine or choline.

To make, for example, products intended for making up the lips, the procedure is as follows:

Water-soluble dyes are dissolved in baiπ-marie, such as bro ofluoresceins called RED 20 R, RED 21 R or tartrazine, orange 1 etc, at a rate of 5 to 20%, either in lysine oleate, or choline, in the presence of a polyalcohol such as glycerol, to reduce the viscosity of the medium; or, if one wishes to increase the emollient character, by replacing the oleate with ricinoleate; the oleate or ricinoleate - glycerol dye assembly is heated to around 60/70 °. A highly colored and transparent medium is obtained, showing the good solubilization of the coloring matter. This set, or colored hydrophilic base, is added, in proportions of 2 to 30%, in a fatty substrate for lipstick, comprising pigments and lacquers, under the conditions generally practiced by those skilled in the art. To make a lip liner, the substrate used is based on waxes and the mixed product is then extruded. To obtain the other cosmetic products indicated above, the appropriate substrate will be used each time.

A lipstick is thus obtained which, after application, leads after twenty minutes to good fixation on the mucosa, the fixed coloring matters not leaving traces on objects such as glass, cup or towel.

By way of nonlimiting examples of colored hydrophilic base, let us cite: Example 2 - 60 g of lysine oleate with 20 g of glycerol are mixed in a water bath, at around 60 °; 20 g of dibromofluorescein are added.

This base will be added in proportions of 5 to 20% to a mixture of fatty substances suitable for lipstick, containing pigments or lacquers, or the mixture of the two. The mixture thus obtained will be poured into molds. (Proportions of the association according to the invention: 3 to 12%).

To make pencils, this base will be incorporated into a wax-based substrate, in proportions of between 15 and 30%, then the mixture will be extruded. (Proportions of the association according to the invention: 12 to 18%).

Example 2 - 60 g of arginine oleate and 20 g of propylene glycol are mixed in a water bath at 60 °. 20 g of water-soluble dyes are added: bromofluoresceins, Ponceau 2 R, bengal rose or others.

This colored base is added at a rate of 5 to 20% in an appropriate mixture of fatty substances for lipstick, containing neither pigments nor lacquers. Lipsticks are thus produced containing only water-soluble dyes. (Proportions of the association according to the invention: 3.5 to 14%).

To obtain a foundation, 30% of this base is incorporated into a substrate for a foundation based on water, vaseline oil, isopropyl myristate, stearin, various stearates, talc and kaolin, as is known to those skilled in the art. (Proportions of the association according to the invention: 18%).

EXAMPLE 3 70 g of choline ricinoleate, 10 g of glycerol and 20 g of water are mixed in a water bath at 60/70 °. bromofluorescein with or without other water-soluble dyes.

This base is incorporated up to 30% in a mascara substrate, based on water, waxes, kaolin, as is known to those skilled in the art. (Proportions of the association according to the invention: 21%).

To obtain an eyeliner, this base is incorporated to the extent of 25% in a substrate for an eyeliner based on water, lanolin-polyethylene glycol bentonite and stearin, as is known to those skilled in the art. art. (Proportion of the association according to the invention: 17.5%).

For obtaining compositions making it possible to remove fixed dyes from the skin or mucous membranes, it is possible, for example, to use the following preparations:

Example 4 - 10 g of lysine oleate are dissolved in 80 ml of water; 10 g of glycerol and the excipients (stabilizers, perfumes and, optionally, preservatives), usually used in cosmetics, are added.

This solution is used as is. (Proportion of the association according to the invention: 10%)

Example 5 - 20 g of choline ricinoleate or lysine ricinoleate are introduced into 50 ml of water to which 30 g of dipropylene glycol are added; complete with ethanol.

This solution can be used as it is, but it is rather intended to manufacture:

either a more diluted solution by dilution by half; or milk, cream or gel forms in which it is mixed with, in general, an equal weight of a neutral base corresponding to the chosen substrate.

Example 6 - 20 g of arginine ricinoleate are introduced into 60 ml of water, to which 30 g of dipropylene glycol are added, as well as the usual excipients.

This preparation is not intended to be used as is, but is used to make:

either a cleansing milk by dilution of the order of half with a milk base;

or a makeup remover cream by dilution, of the order of half, with a cream base.

Example 7 - 20 g of choline oleate are introduced into 60 ml of water, to which 30 g of monopropylene glycol are added, as well as the usual excipients.

This preparation is not intended to be used as it is, but to be added either to a milk base, in a weightable proportion of the order of half, or to a base of carboxy methyl cellulose gel, also in weightable proportion, in the order of half.

Claims

1 - Cosmetic composition intended for make-up or make-up removal, characterized in that it contains, as active agent involved in the fixing of dyes, from 2 to 25%, by weight, of a compound resulting from the association of an acid saturated or unsaturated fat, from C ₁₄ to C ₂₂ , either without leaving water, with a basic amino acid, or with leaving water, with a biological base.

2 - Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the basic amino acid is chosen from lysine and arginine, the composition corresponding to the formula

in which R represents a chain of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids of 14 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^ the hydrocarbon chain of lysine or arginine.

- Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the biological base is choline, the composition corresponding to the formula

R _j -COO-CI ^ -CH ² - *! - (CH ³ ) ³

OH

in which R _χ represents a chain of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids of 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

- Composition according to one of claims l to 3, characterized in that it is a makeup product chosen from a lipstick, a lip pencil, a mascara, an eyeliner and a background of complexion and the active agent is present at a concentration of between 5 and 20%, by weight.

Composition according to one of claims l to 3, characterized in that it is a make-up removal product chosen from a solution, a lotion, a milk, a cream and a gel and that the active agent is present at a similar concentration 10% by weight.