USRE517E - Improvement in sewing-machines - Google Patents

Description

. JOHNSON.

C. MORBY su J; B

SEWING MACHINE.

Bereissued Jan. l2, |858.

UNiT-ED STATES Gor t..

II. M. SINGER AND EDWARD CLARK, OF NEW YORK, vN. Y., ASSIGNEES OF C. vMOREY AND J. B. JOHNSON.

IMPROVEMENT IN SEWING-MAC'HlNES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 6.099, dated February 6, 18.49; "Reissue No. 2168, dated .lune 27, 1854;. Reissue No. 517, dated January 12,1858.

To all whom it may concern,.-

Be it known that CHARLES MOREY and J0- sEPn B. J'oHNsoN, -ofgBostom in the county of Suffolkand State of Massachusetts, have' invented a new and useful machineA for sewing cloth or any other material or materials to which it may be applicable; and we do hereby declare that the saine is fully described andY represented in the followingspeciiication and accompanying drawings, letters, figures, and

references thereof. l

The object of the said invention is to sew seams in cloth orother material, in contra-dia tinction to embroidering with one thread,form ing what is known as the chain-stitch7 by means of an eye-pointed needle, which carries the thread double through the material, which 'is then taken by a hook -and held in theform of capable of operatin g with great rapidityand accuracy, and to do this'with equal accuracy on substances of Vari-ous textures and thickness, and of varying thickness, for the missing of a single stitch in a seam so formed destroys the value of the entire seam, as the thread can be drawn out the whole length from the missed stitch back to the end ofthe searrrfgand in sewing seamswith such a stitdtitis important to have each stitch drawn tightkand all the stitches in the seam equally so. n-I'nachinery for embroidering or ornamentin-g 'with the chain-stitch, the chief obj ect is to lay. the chain onl the outer surface'of the material to be ornamented,while in making seams forthe generalpiirposes or sewing the .chain is required to be formed on the under or what is called the wrong side, that theright'or face side may' show as little of the l'seWing-thread as possible, and to present to the eye yonly the Apoints termed stitching.77 rFhis is .necessary because it makesthe seam resemble sewingwith the crdinaryhandneedle, and because the faeeside of aseam' .is more exposed to wear, and the singlethread vcan be buried in'A the cloth much more readily and eiifectu'ally than the Y double and treble thread presented by the chain side.

The invention of the said Monnx and JOHN- soNrelatesto an arrangement of the eye-point ed needle, hook, and bed-plate in. such manner that the unyielding bed of .the machine shall be interposed between the looping-hook and the cloth or other material to be served, so that the hook, 4in forming the loop and drawing the previously-formed stitch tight, shall be resisted by the unyieldingbed in -close proximity to the needle vto insure the drawing of the stitch tight, and thereby not only insure a substantial seam, but at the same time burythe thread in the surface of the cloth or other material as lmuch' as practicable, that it'may be Yprotected from wear, and tomake the seam appear on the surface likethe ordinary hand-.needle'seann This relation ofthe bed to the hook and cloth or other material is also important in relation to the needle in its combined' operation with the hook. In the first place, the bed presents a solid resisting-surface 4to the needle when puncturing the cloth 'or other material, and, however the material may vary. in thickness, the eye of the needle which carries the thread through always extends to the same distance be .yond that face which is toward the hook-,While the varying thickness is toward the heel of the needle, -where it has no injurious effect on the formation of the loops'and the con'- catenation of the thread. Again, in forming a sealn'with such a stitch it is important that the material to be sewed be' properly held against the plate vor bedduring the entire se-l ries of operations; but the instru-ment b y which it is so held must be self-adapting to the. varying thickness of the material, that it may yield to all the inequalities' in its thickness as the said material is moved along under it by the feeding` apparatus to space the stitches; and with a View to practical results in sewing seams it is also important-that the feeding apparatus should sustain the material in close proximity to the needle as the seam is being formed, Vi'orif such support be given at anyonsiderable distance from the needle, by reason of the yielding or elastic property of the cloth (and many other materials in which V bar is moved.

seams are required'to be -sewed) it would be difficult, if not impossible, to make'thc stitches at equal distances apart and along any desired line.

With the view toy accomplish the desired result the invention'of the said MOREY and JOHN- soN also consists in combining with an eyepointed needle and hook having a bed interposed between the hook or equivalent looping- Vinstrumentand lthe material to be sewed a yielding pressure-plate,to make pressure upon the` material which is being sewed to hold it against the bed and in close proximity to the needle.

Of the said drawings, Figure l exhibits a top view of our said machine. elevation. Fig. 8 is an end elevation. Fig. -i is a transverse vertical and central section. Fig. 5 is a longitudinal and vertical section taken through the axis of the bobbin and looking toward' the front plate of the frame, the said section being soA made as to represent the hook and the mechanism by which it is operated ,together with that by which the cloth- Fig. 6 is a horizontal section taken just above the needle and the hook, to be hereinafter described.

The kind of sewing which is effected by our machine is what is generally known under the name of i chain-stitchl-that is'to. say, the thread is passed through the cloth in the form of loops, each one of which is passed through the one next to it and in rear of it. Theformationof the loops or 'stitches and their inA terlacement are produced in a very simple manner by the united operations of a needle and a hook, as we shall hereinafter explain.

In the drawings above mentioned, A exhibits a frame of metal or other .proper material,

made in a manner suitable to sustain the operative parts applied to it. A driving-shaft, l, extends across the frame A., and has its journals supported in suitable bearings 'applied to the sides of the frame. The said shaft is'to be put in operation by a crank or belt made to run over a pulley, C. A flywheel, D, is. placed upon the said shaft in the position as' seen in the drawings.

The iirst element or part ofthe Vmachine by which the'stitch or loop is passed through the cloth is thc needle. It is seen at a. It is .made like a common needle, with the exception that the eye or hole e, which receives the thread b, is made through the needle very near to its point, as seen in Fig. 7, which denotes a top view of the needle. J ust in rear of .theeye- .h ole the needle is bent or has aslight depression,

as seen at c in Fig. S, which denotes a side view of the needle. rlhe needle is supported in a horizontal position, as seen in the drawings, by a .curved arm, d, which projects from a standar-(hf, erected upon a horizontal slideplateor carriage, g, which should -b'e suitably sustained between parallel guides or ways, so

as to be capable of being moved back and forth in a' direction at right angles to the front face or side ofthe machine. A reciprocating Fig. 2 is a front` fulcrum, w.

attached to the fram-e.

rectilinear motion is imparted to the said carriage (and of course to the needle) by a grooved cam, h, and a stud, i, which projects down from the under side of the carriage and into-the groove of the cam; The said cam is represented in side view in Fig. 9 and top viewin Fig. 10.'y The thread by is wound upon a bobbin, k, iixed upon a-horizontal shaft, Z, which is supported by and revolves in bearings made in 4two 4metallic standards, m a, arranged as seen in the drawings. On one end of the said shaft Z there is a friction-pulley, o, against the periphery of which a spring, p, is made to bear with more or less force according to the amount of friction required to dragtlre thread close into the'cloth as the locpsor stitches are successively formed. From the bobbin the thread is passed through anhole or eye on the end of a spring, q, made to project from the top of a post, i'. Thence the thread passes downward through guides s. t -on the arm d,

and is carried upward through the eye of the needle, as seen in the drawings.

The'hook which operates in connection with `the needle becomes the next element vfor ex-- planation. .lt is seen at t. It isarran'ged at right angles to the needle, and isjointed, so as to play vertically at its rear end, to a slideplate or carriage, u, which is supported in suitable guides,which admit of its being moved in a direction parallel to the front face of the frame.l The reciprocating rectilnear movements of the carriage a and the hook t are produced by the.following-described mechanism The front end of the carriage, yu, is jointed to the upper arm of a lever, fu, whieh'moves on a rllhe lower end of said lever rests against the periphery of asmall cam or wiper, w', placed upon the main or driving shaft just in rear of the front side plate of the frame. rlhe other end of the carriage n is connected to one end of a spring, whose opposite end is Now, when the cam w is revolved it acts against the lower arm of the lever fu in such manner as to cause said lever to move on its fulcrum so as to produce an advance of the carriage u andthe hook t ina direction toward the needle. The spring c' retracts the carriagel after the extreme eccentric part of the cam has passed by or acted upon the lever. A top view of the hook is represented in Fig. 11,V and a front side view of it Y with'the shank a", as represented in FiO. 12. This is necessary in order toenable the hook to seize the thread on the needle when the hook is retracted or drawn back over the needle. The loop, which is formed upon said hook 1s caused by the peculiar construction of-the hook to turn into a vertical posit1on, 'so as to allow the needle to pass through it'when it next advances. The` shank 'of the hook is also formed with a small projecting bend, as seen vat b', Fig. 12, which bend rests and moves up and down upon an inclined or curved plane, c',

disposedxunder the hook, as seen in Fig; 5.

'.Theobjeet. Qf the said bend b andthe said plane c'pis to allow the hook to descend a little directly after it has been drawn back from and beyond the needle, in order that the opening of the loop resting on the hook may be made large enough to insure the passage of the needle through the loop the next time said needle is advanced. A spring, d', is arranged,

as seen in Fig. v5, so as to .press upon the hook and cause it to drop downward at the proper time. The cloth, when punctured by the needle', is supported by a plate, d?, which has aported and regularly or properly advanced or moved laterally in onedirection in order to cause a row `of stitches or a line of sewing to Abe produced-in said cloth. The cloth bar or carriage which supports the cloth is seen at f,

Figs. 1 and 2. An elevation of the reanside of it is exhibited in Fig. 13. It consists of a long bar arranged as seen in the drawings, and suitably supported, so as to be capable of vbeing movedhorizontally and .in a plane par`v` allel to that of the front side of the frame.. In other words, it has a dovetailed tenon, g, projecting from its rear side and extending from one end of it to the other end of it, which tenon moves in a corresponding dovetailed groove-made in-the frame. A long rack of teeth, h', is affixed to and projects rearward from the inside face of the said tenon, as seen vin Figs. 4 and 13. The front or inside face of the cloth-bar has a series of clamps, z" i', Snc., or other proper contrivances applied to it for the purpose of vholding or confining to the bar the two pieces of cloth to be sewed together. Each of the said clamps consists of a j aw hinged to the j plate and forced against the plate or cloth-bar by a setserew, 7c', which 1s made to pass through the jaw or clamp and to screw into the bar. A spring, Z', on each screw, and

arranged between the clamp and bar, serves to press the clamp away from the cloth when the screw is loosened. The said bar is alternately moved the length of each stitch when the needle is out of the cloth, and suffered to remain at rest while the needle is passing into, through, and out of the cloth, the same being effected in the following manner: A pawl, m', is hinged to the top of a lever, n, which turns upon a fulcrum, o', all as seen in Fig. 5. The said pawl operates in the rack h', and is forced 4up against the same by a spring, p. The le- 'ver nlmsa retractive spring, q', axed to it and the frame A. The said lever `is actuated by the cam or wiper w', before mentioned, which, during its revolution, so` acts against the lever as to cause'it to move the pawl and rack or cross-bar a' short distance. The extent of retraction ofthe lever and pawl, and, of course, the length of each stitch of sewing,

is regulated by a screw, r', which screws through axed stud or projection, s', and abuts against the lever j'ustabove'its-fulcrum. By means of the said screw the pawl may be made at each retraction vof it to slip over one,'two,- or more teeth of the rack of teeth, as occasion may require, in orderthat when the pawlis impelled forward it shall move the'rack and cloth-bar a .corresponding dista-nce.`

vThe movement .of the rack-bar may be arrested at any time by means of a wire, t?, which is suspended to the pawl, itbeing necessary' Ymerely to pull on said wire so asv to draw the pawl out of action on the rack.

Having thus described the manner in which our said sewing-machine is constructed, `we

shallnow p-roceed .to explain the method of` forming the loops and each successive stitch of a series or row of stitches.

Fig. 14 represents on a large scale a diagram of the mode of forming loopsjand their interlacement. In the said figure, aga? are supposed to represent sections of two pieces of cloth to be sewed together. seen at c, the hook at. t", and the thread at as. As soon asthe needle has been passed entirely through the two pieces of cloth a? b? and to the extent o f its motion forward, thehook t is made to advance and to pass above and over and across the needle and the thread lying. on the upper side of it. This being accomplished, the hook is next retracted and suffered to fall. vertically sufficiently to enable the point of it tdpass into the depression c, Fig. 8, and below the thread lying over saidY depression, so as to catch or hook said thread and draw it laterally into the shape of a loop, as seen at c, Fig.- '14. The needle is next retracted or drawn out of .the cloth, and the latter moved laterally thel length of the next stitch. rlhe needle is next forced forward through the cloth and the loop c, which, by the peculiar formation ofthe hook, will have beenso turned upward as to permitthe needle to pass through it. The hook is next advanced, and leaves the loop upon the needle, and again seizes the thread on the upper side of the needle, and is retracted and forms afresh loop, the process of looping and interlacing the loops being so continued'until the whole line of loops is conipleted. The slack of thread will be taken up by the action of the spring q, while the tightness of the draft of it onthe cloth will be vregulated by the amount of friction exerted on the bobbin-shaft by the' friction-pulley o and spring p.

What we claim as the invention of the said Monnx and Jonsson, and desire' to secure by Letters Patent, is l I v 1. The arrangement of the bed, eye pointed needle, and hook ory equivalent looping apparatus, substantially as described, sc that the bed shall be interposed between the ,j hooker equivalente looping apparatus and the mate- The needle is 4 I' v:su

rial' to he served,L to resist the puneturng operation of the needle; to hold such material against the. pull of the hook'when drawing the thread to tighten the stiteh, and to prevent the Varyingthiekness of the material from producing any variation in the length of thread'- 'whieh is carried through bythe needle, as set forth.

' 2. vIn combination with the eye-pointed needle and hook, or equivalent looping apparatus, with thJ bed interposed between the mate: rial-to be sewed and the hook, or its equivalentJ a' plate to'makeaself-adapting pressure on the I nat'eral to be sewed i'nclose. proximity to the needle to hold itY against 'the bed during the reciprocating motions ofthe needle, but which, While it so holds the material, shall be free to yield to the inequalities 0f suehmaterial 'as it is draw11 forward under it byany feeding apparatas, substantially as set forth.

I. M. SINGER. EDWARD CLARK. Vitnesses:

' WM. H.' Breuer,l

- WM. C. BROWN.

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