US963106A - Collar for coats and other garments. - Google Patents

Description

L. WOLF. COLLAR FOB. COATS AND OTHER. GARMENTS.

APPLIUATION ITILED DEC. 30, 1909. I 963,106, Patented July 5, 1910. 3 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

Witnesses L. WOLF. GOLLAR FOR cons AND OTHER GAEMENTS.

Patented July 5, 1910.

a SHEETS-SHEET 2.

APPLIGATION FILED DEC. 30, 1909 8 W00 vyfo L. WOLF. v COLLAR FOR COATS AND OTHER GARMENTS.

APPLICATION FILED DEC. 30, 1909.

Patented July 5, 1910.

iilvnlllllvnat. r uwrvlinliilil LESSER WOLF, OF NEW YORK, N.

r DAVID s. HOFFMAN, or unw ronn, n. Y.

COLLAR FOR soars AND 6mm dnnmmws.

3 1m s ecification of Application tiled December so, woe. Serial No. ceases.

2% whom it may concern; I Be it lrnown that I, Lassen WOLF, acitisen of the United States, andfresident of the city, county, and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Collars for (Boats and other Garments, of

which the ,tollowing is a specification.

obiect of my invention is,to providea coat or other garment with a collar which man be placed' -in any of several positionn.

an fit properly and smoothly on both sides and without wrinkles or plaits .in any of the positions in which it may be worn. This object is accomplished by my invention, which provides a collar which is automatically adjustable so as to conform to the wearer as above described, whether the coat be worn in the ordinary manner or as a military coat, and While so worn -will be smooth and at the correct height and po sition.

For a more particular description of my invention reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings forming a part hereof, in which:

Figure lis a perspective view of a coat provided with my improvement and with the collar placed in the ordinary andconventional manner. Fig. 2 is a similar, view, except that the coat is changed to the condition it is laced in when worn as a military coat. ig. 2 is a rear view of the garment shown in Fig. 2. Fig. 3 is an interior view of my improved coat whenthrown open. Figs. 4 and 5 are sectional views taken on the lines 44 and 5-5 of'Figs.

2 and 1, respectively, looking in the direction of the arrows. Figs. 6, 7 and 8 show two of the stifienersand connected parts, 8 being taken on the line 8-8 of Fig. 7 looking in the direction of the arrows.

Throughout the various views of the drawings, similar reference characters des ignate similar parts. I My improved garment may be of any suitable form, according to the nature of the person for whom it is designed, and is provided with the exterior fabric 1, a lining 2,

and a collar 3. The exterior 4 of the collar 3 is preferably, but not necessarily, made of the same material as the fabric 1.; The exterior cover 4 of the collar 3 is sei cured to the lining 2 near the to thereof by a row, of stitches 5, which stitc es also secure this cover 4 and lining 2 to a stiffening 6 of any. suitable substance, such as buckram, and this stitfening ,is secured at its lower edge to the linhi'g 2 by means of suitable stitches 7. The stitches 5 also secure a concealed sliding stiffener 8-whieh is made of several ply of stiffened material,

lar material, and bound at its upper and lower edges by-suitable fabrics, the lower .edge' being bound by a tape 9, and the upper edge by two tapes 10 and 11, one on each side, which tapes secure the sliding stiffener 8 to a stiffening cloth 12 by means of suitable stitches 13 and this stiffening cloth 12 extends to the limit of the interior of the cloth 1 and is secured thereto adjacent to this limit by means of suitable stitches 1d.- The' stitches 14 also pass through a suitable under collar 15 which extends from one ed e of the stiffener 12 to'the upper edge 0 the fabric 1 and to which it is secured with a hem and stitches 16 in the conventional manner. The stitches 16 also secure a strip of cloth 17 which at its lower edge is fixed to the lining 2 by means of the stitches 18, as will appear below. The stitches 14 also secure three straps 19, which are placedat the center of the back and symmetrically on each side thereof'and a short distance theref10m.- The straps 19 run from the stitches 14 and adjacent to the under collar 15 to the stitches 18 and through eyelets 20 in the under collar 15, which are placed there for that purpose. Yet another fabric in the collar 3 1s a linis secured to the same both by the stitches l4 and by stitches 22 and a suitable hem. The lining 2 is also provided with suitable eyelets 23 through which pass the coat hanging strap 24 which isfsecured at its ends by stitches 16, or other suitable means to the exterior fabric 1, so that when the coat is hung strains upon the lining.

The. stifl'eners 8 and 12 are not described in detail, because they may be made of any suitable material in any suitable manner. They are preferably made as shown in Figs. 6, 7 and 8, and out of a sufficientthickness of cloth to make them suitable for their purposes.

Below the collar 3 the lining 2 is folded (or plaite'd) as shown at 25 in Fig. 4 when the coat is worn as a military coat. This is such as b-uclrram, canvas, hair-cloth or simi-- Y ASSIGNOR 0F EIGHTY-F IVE ONE-HUNDREDTHS ing 21 that runs adjacent to the cloth 4 and by the said strap 2% there will be no i causes the fabric 1 near the point y,

i the fabric 4 near because the lining is made a little full, so as to compensate for the difference in length between the exterior and the interior surfaces of the fabric 1 when the coat is worn as an ordinary coat as shown in Fig. 1. For convenience I designate certain points arbitrarily, which will enable me to indicate more clearly what I mean. The point :11 indicates the highest point of the collar when worn as a military coat and the extreme length of the collar when worn as an ordinary coat. The point y indicates the highest point of the collar when worn as an ordinar turned down collar, and the point z indicates'the point about which the collar is folded when worn as an ordinary turned collar or that part of the fabric nearest to this point.

In view of the foregoing, the action of the various elements will be readily understood, when the coat is changed, from one condition to another. When the coat is changed from the condition shown in Fig. 1 to that shown in Fig. 2, thecollar 3 is raised until the point x 1s at the top, and by so doing the point y is moved more than the same fabric near the point .2 as is obvious, and this is necessarily so because of the thickness of the collar. In order to prevent any crease or fullness on the collar 3 when elevated or depressed in either the exterior or interior thereof, it is necessary that the increased length of the exterior near the point 3 be compensated for, and this is done with the aid of the stitl'eners 12 and 8 and the parts connected therewith, which force the lining 2 to more downwardly near its upper portion and between the stitches 18 and the stitches 5.

The stifi'ener (3 prevents any'folding of the lining 2, except near the stitches 18, and so the plait of fold 2-3 is formed when the collar is raised so that the coat can be worn as a military coat. The straps 19 at the same time support the lining 2 directly from the stitches 11 near the top of the collar 3. When the garment is changed from a military garment to an ordinary one, the oint a? is thrown to the position shown in Big. 5

and the collar is thereby folded about the' point z. This folding of the collar causes the still'ener 12 to be drawn up and also to be somewhat stretched and this draws up the lining and removes the plait or fold 25. he straps 19 also raise the lining to any extent that may be necessary to hold it in the right position.

In the fore oing has been described one embodiment of my invention. It is obvious that it is not restricted thereto, but may be modified in many ways, all of which come within the scope of the annexed claims.

What I claim is: i

1. In a garment of the class described, an exterior fabric, a lining therefor, a collar, a stiffener in the collar means connecting the collar stiffener to thesaid lining whereby when the'collar is inv a military position, a plait is formed in the lining and when the collar is turned down, the plait is "taken up.

2. In a device of the class described, a garment having an'exterior fabric, a collar and a lining, stiffening 6 connecting the lining and the interior of the said collar, and straps connecting the stiffener and coat lining for causing said lining to be plaited when said collar is in one of its various positions.

3. In a device of the character described,

an exterior fabric, a collar and a lining, said collar being formed with the exterior fabric 1 which is secured to said lining, a stiffener secured to said lining and to said exterior fabric and straps 19, connecting said lining with the interior of said collar.

, *1. In a device of the character described, an exterior fabric 1, acollar 3 and a lining 2, an exterior fabric 4 on said collar, a fabrie 1? connecting said lining 2 with said exterior fabric 1, an under-collar 15 connect= ing said exterior fabric to the interior of the collar 3, straps 19 passing throu h said un,

der-collar and connecting said lining with said collar, and stiifeners 12, 8 and 6 conneeting said lining and interior of said collar.

a stiffener in the collar, 2.

5. In a device of the character described,

an exterior fabric 1, a collar 3 and a lining 2, an exterior fabric 4 on said collar, a fabric 17 connecting said lining 2 with said exterior fabric 1, an under'collar 15 connecting said exterior fabric to the interior of the collar 3, straps 19 passing through eyelets 20 in said under-collar and connecting said lining with said collar'and stiifeners' 12, 8 and 6 connecting said lining and the interior of said collar.

Signed at the cit of New York, county of New York and 28th day of December, 1909.

. LESSER WOLF.

\Vitnesses Gus'rAvn I. AnoNow, H. RADZINSKY.

tate of New York this

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