US933523A - Adjustable pattern. - Google Patents

Description

M. BOGUSHEFSKYD. 4

ADJUSTABLE PATTERN.

APPLICATION IILBD APB. 26,1909.

9.3 3,523. Patented Sept. 7, 1909. 2 SHEET8-BHEBT 1.

l 5- 1. 3.9 J8 J] 3.2 .22

o 52 0 k2 if .49' 'e fl a: 75 64 19 a W v 5 6'5 91 79 31 77 o a? Z WITNESSES INVENTOH Moses Bqguslzqfslly lrmflmeys 1 ANDREW. I. Guam 1, vmroumoaunm wnmm'on. n. A

M. BOGUSHEFSKY.

ADJUSTABLE PATTERN. APPLICATION FILED APB. 26,1909.

933,523. Patented Sept. 7, 1909;

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

- WITH/E8858 V llVl/E/WUB Moses Bog us]: qfis'll y. I By M ATTORNEYS mmlzwv a. GRAHAM 00.. Pnow-umoummins. WASHINGTON. o. c.

MOSES BOGUSI-IEFSKY', or new YORK, n; Y.

ADJUSTABLE PATTERN.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Sept. '7, 1909.

AppIication filed. April 26, 1909. Serial No. 492,300.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, Moses BOGUSHEFSKY,

a citizen of the United States, and a resident of the city of New York, borough of Brooklyn, in the county of Kings and State of New York, have invented a new and Improved Adjustable Pattern, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description.

This invention relates to certain improvements in patterns for use in cutting out gar-.

ments, and the object of the'invention is to so construct the pattern that it may be'used for cutting garments of various difierent sizes.

The invention consists in the construction and combination of parts, whereby the different edges of the pattern ma be moved outwardly or inwardly substantially in parallelism, without varying the relative pro portions or the general shape of the pattern.-

In connection with the pattern, I employ various attachments for varying the style of the garment, that is, rendering one pattern useful for cutting different forms of garments.

Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, in which similar characters of reference indicate corresponding parts inall the figures, and in which Figure 1 is a plan view of a pattern constructed in accordance with my invention, thev parts being in their extended position and the attachments secured thereto; Fig. 2

is a plan view similar toFig. 1, but showing the parts in their contracted position for cutting a garment of smaller size; and Fig. 3 is a view similar to a portion of Fig. 2,

showing an additional attachment secured thereto.

My invention may be utilized in various different forms for cutting different parts of garments, for instance, coats, overcoats, jackets, Waistcoats, sleeves, &c., but inasmuch as all of the different forms of garments remain the same, I have illustrated only one form, which is designed for cutting the front section or breadth of a gentlemans coat.

In the specific form illustrated, I employ a frame or pattern proper of skeleton form and including a longitudinally-extending marginal strip 10 for the front edge of the coat, a longitudinally-extending strip 11 for the side seam of the coat that is, the seam extending downwardly from beneath the arm-hole, a curved strip 12 extending from the upper end of the strip 11 around the arm-hole to the top shoulder seam, a strip 13 extending along the top shoulder seam, astrip 14 extending from the upper end of the last-mentioned strip to the upper end of the strip 10, and a bottom strip 15 extending across the lower edge of the-pattern and connecting the lower ends of the strips 10 and 11. All of these strips are substantially rigid inrespect to each other and may be braced by any desired number of cross members. Asshown, the strips 10 and 11 are connected by a cross strip 16, the strips 12 and 10 are connected by a cross strip 17, and the strip 17 is connected to the strips 13 and 15, respectively, by strips 18 and 19. This particular arrangement of cross bracing is immaterial except that the longitudinal strip 19 serves as a support for the pivots for the operating members hereinafter referred to. Carried by this rigid frame or pattern proper, I provide a second series of marginal strips, disposed adjacent'to and parallel with the margins of'the pattern and movable outwardly substantially in parallel- 1 ism to increase the size of the pattern. In addition to these movable marginal strips, I provide means for'moving all of the latter simultaneously and through such distances as to maintain the general form of the pattern substantially the same.

Extending along the front strip 10 is an auxiliary strip 20 having slotted arms 21, 22 and 28 at an angle thereto and extending inwardly toward the center of the pattern. The strip 10 carries studs or pins 2 1, 25and 26, extending through the slots in said arms and serving to guide the latter. One of these, for instance, the-pin 25, may be in the form of a set screw for locking the parts in their adjusted position. All of these arms preferably extend downwardly at a slight angle to the general direction of the strip, so that as said strip is moved outwardly, 1t will at the same time, be moved upwardly to a lesser extent. Thearm 23 may be held rigid with the strip 20 by a diagonal brace 27. The strip 22 may be held rigidby a brace 28 connected to an inwardly-extending operating arm 29 on said strip 20, and the arm 21 may be held rigid bya brace 30 extending upwardly from the end of said arm to an extension 31 at the upper end of the strip and substantially parallel to the collar strip 14. Substantially parallel to the. collar strip 14, I provide an auxiliary collar strip 32 having one end thereof Sl Idable through a loop 33 on the extenslon 31, and having the upper or rear end pro vided with an extension 34 substantially parallel to the shoulderseam strip 13 of the pattern. This collar strip is provided with an inwardly-extending arm 35, rigid therewith and slidable longitudinally along a slotted guide strip 3'6.rigid with the pattern of the shoulder strip 38 is provided'withan extension- 40 rigid therewith andsubstantially in alinement with the adj acentend of the arm-hole strip 12. This extensionpreferably carries aloop 41 encircling the armhole strip and slidable longitudinally of the latter. The shoulderstrip 38 is provided with an arm- 42 movable longitudinally along a slotted guide-strip 43' on the pattern proper. This arm 42 serves not only to guidethe shoulder strip 38 biit also serves as an operating arm therefor.

Adjacent the rear strip 11 of the pattern and substantially parallel thereto, is an auxiliary rear strip-44 "provided with inwa-rdly-extending slotted guiding arms 45 and 46, throughwhich extend studs or pins 47 and 48 carried by the rear strip 11. The arm 46-may be held rigid withthe rear strip 44 by a diagonal brace 49-, and the strip 45 may be held rigid by a brace 50 connected to an operating arm 51 rigidwith said strip. At the upper end of the strip 44, there is a downwardly and inwardly-disposed extension 52 adjacent the rear end portion of the arm-hole strip 12, and the end of} this extension is connected tot-hea-rm-hole strip 12' by an; intermediate piece 53, one end of which is pivoted to the end of the extension 52, and the other end i of which carries a loop 54 encircling the strip 12. For operating all of these auxiliarcystrips 20, 32, 38 and 44 simultaneously, an-to such extents as to maintain the pattern of the same general formbutto vary its size, I provide a plurality of links and levers connecting to the various operating arms above referred to. Pivotally mounted upon the center bracing strip 19 of the pattern proper are three Inulti-armed oscillating levers 55, 56 and 57. Certain of the arms on each lever serve for operating certain of the auxiliary strips hereinbefore described,

and certain other of the arms serve merely i to insure the simultaneous movement of all three lovers. The lever is provided withv oppositely-extending arms 58 and 59, connected toarms 60- and 61 on the lever 56, and to arms 62- and 63 on the lever 57 by links 64 and 65, which merely insure the simultaneous movement of all three levers. The lever 55 is provided with an upwardly-extending arm 66, which is connectedby a link67 to the operating arm 37, and by a link 69 to the operating arm 42. This arm 66 thus serves for the movementof the two strips 32 and 38'.- The lever-55 is provided with a fourth arm 70, which is connected by a link '11 to. an arm 72' on the front'strip 20, to aid in the movement of said last-mentionedjstrip The lever 56is provi'dedwith arms and 74 connected by links 7 5; and 76 to thearms 5-1 and 29,'respectively, of the back and front strips to aid in the movement of said back and" front strips. The lever is provided with arms 77 and 78, connected by links 79 and 80 to arms 81 and 82' on the back and front strips, respectively, to a-l'so aid. in the movement of said strips. The arms 70, 74 and 78 of the three lovers are thus connected to: the front strip 20; and

allof these arms extend substantially par allel', so as to move outwardly the upper and lower ends of the strip: 20: simultaneously. The arms Band 77' are connected to the rear strip and are substantially parallel, so as to maintain. it in. parallelism with the strip 7 10. It will also force upwardly the strip 32 and cause it to have a sliding movement with theextension- 31 of the strip 20. It willsalso move upwardly the strip. 38- and cause itto have sliding movement with the extension 34 and with the arm-hole strip 12. Simul- 'taneously' the rear strip 44 will be moved rearwardly and: the connecting piece 53 will slide along'the lower portion: of the strip 12.

With the parts. in theposition shown in in Fig. 2, the auxiliary strips are all drawn in to their innermost position and from this position'fthey may all be moved outwardly to-thelimiting positions indicated; in Fig. 1, or to'any intermediate position; Preferably, some one-of the operating'armafor instance,

the arm 22, is provided with a: scale cali- V brat-ed to read in different standard sizes of garments, so that the tailormay' definitely ascertain the size of thegarment' which is to be made by cutting the material from; the Ipatt'erni with the extengded to any degree. .7 r The specific attern above described isdesignedforuse mithe cutting of gent'l'emens single-breasted sack coats, and to enable the same pattern to be used in the cutting of other styles of coats, I provide certain attachments thereto, which are detachable therefrom. When using the pattern in cutting a double-breasted coat, I provide the strip 20 with an extension, so as to increase the total width of the pattern without varying the other proportions thereof. This extension includes a strip 85 substantially parallel to the strip 20 and having three arms 86, 87 and 88 extending through guides in the strip 20. The upper and lower guides may be provided with set screws 89 and 90 for holding the extension in position. By loosening these set screws, the strip 85 and its arms may be readily detached.

Vhen it is desired to cut a dress coat, I employ an attachment on the rear strip 44 for extending that portion of the latter which is above the waist line. This attachment includes a curved strip 91 having arms 92 and 93 extending through slides on the rear strip 44, and held in adjusted position .thereon by set screws 94 and 95. These two arms may be held rigid in respect to each other by a brace 96, the upper end of which is also secured to a guide strip 97. An arm-hole extension strip 98 is secured to the upper end of this guide strip, and to the upper end of the strip 97, so as to form an extension of the curve ofthe arm-hole strip 12 when the parts are in their contracted position.

For forming an extension of the strip 12, when the pattern is in its distended form, there is provided a strip 99 substantially parallel to the strip 98 and movable outwardly therefrom by arms 100 and 101. The former may have a loop 102 encircling the strip 91, and the latter may slide through the arm-hole guide strip 97. The arms 92, 93 and 101 may be graduated, so that the tailor may secure the strips in the desired position for making a garment of a different size, without the necessity of measuring. By loosening the set screws 94 and 95, this entire extension may be removed.

hen it is desired to cut a loose fitting coat which will han straight from the shoulders rather than he fitted at the waist, I may employ the extension shown in Fig. 3. This extension includes a strip 103, having arms 104 and 105, by means of which the strip may be held in place with the same set screws 94 and 95 shown in the other figures. The strip 103 is substantially straight, whereas the strip 44 of the pattern proper is curved inwardly intermediate its ends.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent:

1. An adjustable pattern, comprising a pattern proper, a plurality of strips adjacent the periphery thereof and movable in respect thereto, means connecting said strips for moving them outwardly simultaneously for increasing the size of the pattern, and an attachment adapted to be secured to one of said strips to adapt the pattern to a different style of garment.

2. An adjustable pattern, comprising a pattern proper having marginal strips and transverse connecting strips, and means for varying the size of the pattern, including auxiliary strips adjacent the marginal strips of the pattern proper, multi-armed levers carried by said pattern proper, means connecting said levers to insure their simultaneous movement, and links connecting said levers and said auxiliary strips for moving the latter substantially in parallelism, to increase the effective size of the pattern.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing Witnesses.

MOSES BOGUSHEFSKY.

Witnesses AARON PAsNER, JOSEPH GULOHN.

Images