US931896A - Adjustable chart for dressmaking. - Google Patents

Description

, R.A.TE RRY. ADJUSTABLE CHART P0P: DRESSMAKING. APPLIOAT IONPILED BBQ. 26, 1908.

931,896. Patented Aug. 24. 1909.

2 SHEETB-8HEET 1.

ANDREW a. mwuu m, PNOTO-UTMOGHAPHERS. WASHINGTON, It a R. A. TERRY. ADJUSTABLE CHART FOR DRESSMAKING.

APPLIGATION FILED DEC. 26, 1908.

Patented Aug. 24. 1909. 2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

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UNITED STATES PATENT @FFTQE.

REED A. TERRY, 0F OMAHA, NEBRASKA.

ADJUSTABLE CHART FOR DRESSMAKING.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, REED A. TERRY, a citizen of the United States, residing at Omaha, in the county of Douglas and State of Nebraska, have invented a new and useful Adjustable Chart for Dressmaking, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to improvements in adjustable charts for dressmaking, and comprises a set of forms or patterns each composed of adjustable strips or links, whereby they may be readily extended or retracted as to length and breadth, being particularly useful in the making of skirts.

The object of the invention is to provide simple means whereby an inexperienced person may cut material for a skirt of any desired number of gores, and of any chosen length, waist or v hip measure, without measuring the material, and if desired may form the skirt flaring at the bottom.

Another object is the provision of a set of adjustable patterns for the purpose described, which will comprise few parts, so that they may be economically manufactured, also so that operation and adjustments may be easily understood, and which will be reliable in use to provide the accurate fitting of these garments.

The invention includes certain useful features relating to accuracy and convenience for cutting a nine-gored skirt, also for the formation of inverted plaits.

With these and other objects in View the invention presents a new and useful combination and arrangement of parts, as described herein, pointed out by the appended claims and as illustrated in the drawing, wherein,

Figure 1 is a lan or side view of the forms or sections emp oyed. Figs. 2 and 3 are side views of two of the sections shown in Fig. 1, illustrating certain adjustments of links. Figs. 4., 5 and 6 are enlarged details to show edges of certain links and strips and their mountings.

Referring now to the drawing for a more particular description, numerals 1, 2, 3, and 4 indicate adjustable sections, patterns or forms employed for cutting material for any desired number of gores and providing for suitable waist and hip measurements and for any desired length of the skirt; and in using these sections, the section indicated at 1 is always employed for cutting the front gore.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed December 26, 1908.

Patented Aug. 2 1-, 1909.

Serial No. 469,508.

Numeral 5 indicates links having angular plates 6 and stems or strips 7, and upon strips 7 are seated links or strips 8 having clasps or collars 9 and 10 secured thereon to encircle strips 7 whereby these strips are slidably connected and provide a side memher for a section; and they may be longitudinally extended or retracted, clasps 9 and 10 being secured a sufficient distance apart so that the strips may be maintained in alinement. Strips 7 bear visible indices a part of their lengths, and in the present instance a blank space intervenes between the upper ends of heads 6 and indices 30 measuring 61- inches and commencing with indices 30 strips 7 are visibly marked throughout their lengths to their lower terminals to indicate inches. Strips 8 have lengths, in the present instance of 231}- inches, and it will be seen, if it is desired to provide a length of 36 inches for the skirt, the operator, slidably adjusts strips 7 and 8 so that the upper ,end of strips 8 register with indices 36; and it will be understood that a skirt of any desired length may be formed by causing the terminals of strips 8, near clasps 9, to register with the indices thus selected.

I do not, of course, limit myself to the exact indices shown and described; also strips 7 and 8, if desired, may have different lengths than those stated.

At 11 and 12 are shown strips adjustably connected in a manner similar to those already described, by clasps 9 and 10 to provide an opposite side member for a section, strips 11 having visible indices thereon as above mentioned. It will be seen that strips 11 of sections 1, 2 and 3 are shorter than the corresponding strip of section 4;, and links 13 are pivotally mounted at 14 upon the ends of strips 11 of said sections 1, 2, and 8, the uses of which will be presently described.

In order that the skirt may be cut to provide any desired waist and hip measurements, I provide slots 15 and 16 in plates 6 of sections 1, 2, and 3 having a scale or visible indices 17. Slots 15 and 16 are formed substantially parallel and are disposed transverse with reference to the longitudinal strips mentioned, slot 15 extending near the upper edge of plates 6 of these sections, and slots 16 being near the lower edge of said plates.

Links 18 and 19 are used in connection with plates 6 of sections 1, 2, and 3. Each of links 18 has its outer end pivotally mounttending inclinedly therebetween. desired construction for forming the well known inverted plait employed ordinarily ed at 20 upon the upper end of link 13, its inner end having an engaging pin 21 seated slidably in one of slots 15; each link 19 has a mounting for one of itsends upon pivot 14, its opposite end having an engaging pin 21 seated slidably in one of slots 16.

Plate 6 of section 4 has a slot 22 formed midway of its edges, saidslot being disposed transverse with respect to strip 7, and, adjacent slot 22 is the visible scale 38. Near the upper end of strip 11 of this section is pivotally mounted at 23 the foldable link 24 having engaging pins 25 secured thereon and ,neareach other for seatings in slot 22. Link 24 is formed in three parts, as portions or plates 26, 27, and 28, plate 28 being disposed between and hingeably mounted upon plates 26 and 27 When these parts are extended, as shown in Fig. 1 the upper edge of section 4 is irregular in form, the edge of portion 26 extending outwardly of the edges of portions 27 and plate 6, the outer edge of plate 28 ex- This is a in forming the gores for the back of the skirt. For use at other times, section 4 is folded, that is to say, plate 28 is swung downward so that it rests upon plate 27, plate 26 being 30 seated upon plate 28, the parts being in positions illustrated in the drawing by Fig. 3.

From the description 1t Will be understood that adjustments may be made of engaging pins 21 and 25 wlthm the respective slots 15 and 22 for cutting material to correspond with a walst measurement, the measurement for the hips being effected by an adjustment of engagingpins 21 within slots 16, links 18, 19, and 2 1 being extended or retracted relative to plates 6 for said adjustmerits.

Pivotally mounted at 29 upon the lower terminal of strips 8 are shown segmental strips 30, and pivotally mounted at 31 upon said strips 8, are the adjacent segmental strips 32. Upon the lower ends of strips 12 are secured loops or clasps 33 which are adapted to inclose strips 30 and 32. Each of strips 30 and 32 has visible characters there on to indicate measuring spaces as plainly shown in the drawing, and as is apparent, strips 12 may be moved in directions away from or toward strips 8 to register with any of the indices desired. The characters upon strips 30 are spaced apart to indicate the number of yards the skirt is to measure around the bottom. If it is decided, for in stance, that the skirt shall measure 1%; yards around the bottom, the outer edge of each strip 12 is placed to register with the index upon its respective strip 30.

When using the herein described device there are certain measurements to be first taken, as the Waist and hip measurements,

adjustments to be made of the sections and their parts, further description is not needed, except to explain the use of the sections in connection with certain gores to be formed.

To forma seven gored skirt no seam being used in front, section l is first employed; after it is placed on the material, acontinuous line is drawn around the outside of the section; it is then turned over sidewiseanda complete double front gore is formed by again drawing a line thereabout, the lines formed at the edges of strips 7 and S .of this section coinciding, and in cutting the material, suitable allowance is to be made for seams adjacent the side lines of the gore. Sections 2 and 3 are then employed and two side gores are cut foreaoih side of the skirt. Sectione is then used and two gores are formed for the back of the skirt. To form -an eight gored skirt the same means are used as just described, a middle seam being en1- ployed for the front gore after the gore is bisected; and other numbered gores may be formed, the manner of formingthe same requiring no description. For the purpose of forming askirt having nine gores, section ;2 is employed, after being extended in width, to form four side gores; and sections 1 .and 3 are correspondingly reduced in width. To effect this change in proportions, perforations 34 and 35 are made in section 1, and perforations 36 and 37 are formed in section 3; perforation 34 is located in plate 60f section 1 one inch from its outer edge perforation 35 is formed in strip 30, 2;}- inches from the outer edge of strip 8 of said section. Perforation 36 is formed in :plate 6 of section 3, 15;; inches from the outer edge; perforation 37 is formed in strip 30 of said section 3 a-distance of 3 inches from the outer edge'of its strip 8. While the perforations could be located somewhat diiferently, I prefer to have them disposed substantially as stated, since they correspond with other proportions em ployed. After the herein described sections have been adjusted to correspond with the waist and hip measurements, and after the length of skirt and the number of yards for the skirt bottom have been determined and adjustments made, a total of 2% inches is added to the width of the upper end of section 2, that is to say, plate 6 and link 13 of said section 2 are drawn farther apart, thereby enlarging the measurements of both the waist and hips to the extent of 2% inches, said 2% inches being the total measurements from perforations 34 and 36 to the edge of their respective plates 6. Also the bottom of strip 12 is moved outwardly upon strip 30 to widen the bottom .of said section 2 to the extent of 5% inches, this being the total of the measurements from perforations 35 and 37 to the outer edge of strips 8 above referred to. The employment of the perforations just described greatly facilitates the operation of marking the material; sections 1 and '3 may be laid on the material with these perforations flush with the fold or edge of said material, thereby avoiding measurements of these spaces; also after the material has been marked along the edges of plates 6 and strips 7 and 8 of sections 1 and 3, the sections may then be laid upon the material with the per forations registering with the marked lines, so that the ends and opposite side of the sections may be delineated. Section 1 is then employed to form a front gore having twice the width of this section, as heretofore described in connection with the five gores; section 2 is employed to form four side gores, the material being cut on a continuous line drawn to the outline of this section to form two pieces or patterns, these pieces being then cut longitudinally midway between their sides to form the four side gores; sections 3 and 4 are then used, and two gores are formed from each of these sections to complete the nine gores. On account of the curvatures of the sections as shown in the drawing, between the waist and hip measurements, the skirt will have a fullness so that the garment will fit the person of the wearer. When it is desired to provide a skirt with a high back, an adjustment may be made of links 18 and 19 of sections 1, 2, and 3 to the position illustrated by Fig. 2, the outer end of these links being moved upwardly, thereby causing a curvature of the upper end of these sections. When forming a skirt with fifteen or more gores it is convenient to employ a different scale for bot tom measurements, and therefore segmental strips 32 are employed for marking thereon a scale to denote shorter spaces than that shown by strips 30. Strips 32 may be removed and thereby lessen the weight of the device where it is used only in connection with the making of skirts of less than fifteen gores, and therefore both strips 30 and 32 are shown.

At 39 are shown forming strips used when it is desired to form skirts with flaring bottoms. They have pivotal mountings 40 upon the sides of sections 2 and 3 and upon the inner sides of sections 1 and 4, and each may have outward swinging movements from its side support by means of the gagingarm 41 pivotally mounted at 42 upon and near the lower end of said strips 39, arms 41 being supported within clips 43, said clips being mounted upon the sections: and as is obvious, strips 39 may be adjusted to provide for a flaring form of greater or lesser eX- tent, for the bottom of the skirt.

Having fully described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is,-

1. In an adjustable chart, the combination of adjacent, longitudinally adjustable side members having their lower ends transversely and adjustably connected; of a plurality of hingeably connected plates, the ends of the terminal plates being mounted upon the upper terminals of the side members, said plates being foldable to cause a retracted adjustment of said upper terminals of the side members.

2. In an adjustable chart, the combination of first and second longitudinally adjustable side members, segmental strips vivotally mounted u on the lower termina of the first side mem er and having adjustable connections with the lower terminal of the second side member; a foldable link having an outwardly extending part mounted upon said second side member and having an inwardly extending part mounted upon said first side member, said link being collapsible to cause a retracted adjustment of the upper terminals of said first and second side members.

REED A. TERRY. Witnesses:

FRANK C. JoHNsoN, WILLIAM P. STERNBERG.

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