US929028A - Coat-pad. - Google Patents

Description

0. W. SGHWEIGHLER.

GOAT PAD.

APPLICATION FILED APR. 5, 1905.

Patented July 27, 1909.

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CARL W. scHWEioHLER, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

COAT-PAD.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented July 27, 1909. I

Application filed April 5, 1905. Serial No. 254,045.

of Illinois, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in CoatPads, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact specification.

My invention relates to coat pads esp cially designed for use in the manufacture of ready made clothing and which give the coat at the shoulders and front portions thereof the desired shape or contour without being previously fitted or tried on the wearer as is the case with tailor-made garments; and my invention has for its primary object to provide improved, simple and inexpensive means whereby the shoulder portion of the pad will be given the requisite contour.

With a view to the attainment of these ends and the accomplishment of certain other objects which will hereinafter appear, the invention consists in the features of novelty and in the construction, combination and arrangement of parts first described with reference to the accompanying drawings and more particularly pointed out in the claims.

In the said drawingsFigure 1 is a plan of the parts or elements constituting my im proved pad before the same are stitched or secured together, certain portions being broken away, and Fig. 2 is a similar view showing the parts secured together in the form of the finished pad.

In carrying out my invention I first cut out a piece of canvas or other suitable material which corresponds in shape to the usual outlines of a coat pad so as to constitute a shoulder portion 1, a lapel portion 2 and a front or breast portion 3, and which canvas is originally in one piece or integral but is subsequently severed by means of a tapering or approximatelycigar shaped slit 4, from a point beginning at the inner end of the shoulder seam diagonally downwardly to a point at the front and near the lower side of the arm hole seam. Under or on top of this canvas is placed a piece or layer of haircloth 5, or similar material which is bounded by the outlines 6, 7 and 8 and has its hairs arranged horizontally or substantially so as shown in Fig. 1, the parallel horizontal lines indicating the hairs so that the haircloth will not stretch in a horizontal direction and can only stretch in a vertical or upright direction.

9 is a shoulder extension similar in purpose and construction to that described in my United States Patent No. 615,500, granted December 6th, 1898, and which if desired may be made up of a number of layers of wadding or felt graduated in size as described in my aforesaid patent. In the present exemplification of my invention some of these layers are crescent shape indicated by the dotted line 10, while others are substantially triangular as indicated by the line 11 which constitutes the lower ends or edges of the pieces, the purpose of thus vary ing the pieces in size being, as explained in my aforesaid patent, to constitute a padding on the shoulder that will taper in thickness toward the neck or collar so as to pad the shoulder without forming a lump, these features, however, being entirely immaterial in my present invention.

After the parts have been thus placed together and the haircloth is provided with a number of inwardly extending cuts 12, 13 and 14, two of which extend. from the upper edge, near the shoulder line or seam downwardly to the slit 4, while the other, 14, extends from the armhole seam inwardly toward the lower ends of the cuts 12, 13, all as shown in Fig. 1, the parts are stitched together preferably by curved lines of stitch ing 15 which tend, by reason of their curvature, to impart a convex formation to the breast and shoulder portion of the pad, but before these lines of stitching 15 are run, the edges of the tapering slit 4 are brought together and preferably secured by a zig-zag line of stitching 16, or in any other suitable way, and when the edges of this slit are thus brought into parallel relation it will be understood that the canvas or other non-stretching fabric employed, in lieu of such canvas, will be given a concavo convex formation because of the shortening of the canvas in a line at right angles to the slit 4 thereby causing it to sink inwardly at the intermediate part or length of the slit 4 and to bulge upwardly at the extremities of said slit, in conformity with the shape of the wearers shoulder and chest. The haircloth 5 may not be capable of stretching to this extent, at least not in a direction across the hairs or upwardly, but the slit or cut 14 permits it to expand at the arm hole to accommodate the upward bulge or convex formation produced in that vicinity when the edges of the slit 4 are socured together, while the cuts 12, 13 permit it to expand in the vicinity of the collar over the up er part of the chest to conform with the bu ge or convex formation produced at that end of the slit 4 when its edges are brought together. It should be stated, however, that under the haircloth is placed,

as usual, a layer'of felt 17, which, unlike the canvas, is of elastic character capable of stretching to accommodate this distorted shape of the haircloth and the canvas and to which felt 17 or other stretching material the haircloth may be attached when it is expanded or distorted. After the edges of the slit 4 have been secured together as shown in Fig. 2, and the cuts 12,13, 14 of the haircloth are opened or expanded in the manner indicated in dotted l'mes in Fig. 2, all of the layers of material constituting the pad may then be stitched through and through bythe stitching 15 for securing them together and preventing the distorted members from resuming their original shape.

In the former patent granted to me I proposed to impart to the canvas or other nonstretching material, employed in lieu thereof, the desired contour or concavo convex form by means of a slit similar in shape to the slit 4 extending downwardly from the top of the shoulder seam and terminating at a point on the chest part considerably inwardly from the arm hole, and while that method is found to be capable of producing a useful result, it is objectionable from a manufacturing point of view owing to the dil'liculty in forming the cut accurately at the proper place. Consequently in my present invention the upper end of the canvas is entirely severed by the slit 4 as described or, in other words, two pieces of canvas whose contiguous edges are formed on the side outlines respectively of the slit 4 are employed and the tedious operation of accurately locating and forming the slit is thus avoided.

Having thus described my invention what I claim as new therein and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is:

1. A coat pad comprising a layer of fabric entirely severed from a point at the collar to the arm hole on two curved converging lines with the edges of the fabric bounded by said lines secured together in substantially parallel relation whereby the fabric between the ends of said lines will be given a convex form.

2. A coat pad comprising a layer of fabric severed from a point at the collar to the arm hole on two curved converging lines of cut with its edges along said lines secured together in parallel relation, a layer of stretching material, an intermediate layer of material arranged between said fabric and stretching material and having cuts extending inwardly from the arm hole and the shoulder seam toward said curved lines of cut, the said cuts of the intermediate layer of material being expanded or spread open, and means securing all of said layers of material together.

3. A coat pad comprising a layer of fabric entirely severed from a point at the conjunction of the shoulder seam and the collar entirely into the arm hole on two curved converging lines with the edges of the fabric bounded by said lines secured together in substantially parallel relation, whereby thefabric between the ends of said lines will be given a convex form.

4. A coat pad comprising a layer of fabric entirely severed from a point at the point of conjunction of the shoulder seam with the collar to a point near the lower side of the arm hole in a downwardly inclined direction, on two curved converging lines with the edges of the fabric bounded by said lines secured together in substantially parallel relation, whereby the fabric between the ends of said lines will be given a convex form.

CARL W'. SCHWEICHLER.

Witnesses:

FRANCIS A. HoPKINs, A. M. UHER.

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