US2691166A - Brassiere construction - Google Patents

Description

1954 H. ROTH 2,691,166

BBASSIERE CONSTRUCTION iled Nov. 14. 1952 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR I Harold 205% A'ITORNEY Oct. 12, 1954 ROTH 2,691,166

BRASSIERE CONSTRUCTION Filed NOV. 14, 1952 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 mfazTQ-Eawmw a 37 INVENTOR Patented Oct. 12, 1954 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 2,691,166 BRASSIERE CONSTRUCTION Harold Roth, New York, N. Y.

Application November 14, 1952, Serial No. 320,425

5 Claims. '1

The present invention relates to a brassiere construction and it particularly relates to a brassiere construction which may be either used as such or as part of a brassiere slip.

It is among the objects of the present invention to provide a self-supporting brassire construction particularly of the type which may be used in connection with a strapless brassiere or a strapless brassiere slip and which will comfortably conform to the wearer and at the same time give the necessary support to the body without causing any discomfort.

Another object is to provide a novel strapless brassiere construction which will have both vertical and lateral supporting structures and which will retain its position upon the body of the wearer without collapsing or slipping and without tendency toward flattening and without undue wrinkling.

Still further objects and advantages will appear in the more detailed description set forth below, it being understood, however, that this more detailed description is given by way of illustration and explanation only and not by way of lamination, since various changes therein may be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the scope and spirit of the present invention.

In accomplishing the above objects it has been found most satisfactory, according to one embodiment of the present invention, to form a breast cup of separate upper and lower portions and preferably of a special laminated construction with the multi-layer laminated construction being joined along a seam extending from the outer sides of the breast cup across and down to the lower edge of the breast cup.

In the preferred construction extending along the sides of the breast cup are two vertical reenforcing wire or plastic bones or stiffening members which extend from the top to the bottom of the brassiere. The front bones preferably are faced somewhat outside of the middle central seam of the brassiere and both the vertical bones or reenforcements should extend substantially across the sides of the breast cup inside the outside edges thereof and should tend to diverge downwardly forming a closest ap proach adjacent the top of the brassiere cup.

In a preferred construction the breast cup is formed of one group of multiply elements which extend across the top and inside the face of the breast cup adjacent the front central portion of the brassiere. The lower outside and bottom portion of the breast cup should be provided with a central set of laminated structures.

Although the laminations may consist of 2, 3 or 4 layers of fabric, with different numbers of laminations being provided in the upper and lower breast cup portions, it has been found most satisfactory to provide three pieces of superimposed felt which are seamed and reenforced with a stiffening wire or bone along said seam.

In the preferred construction one seam extends inwardly toward the center of the breast cup toward the sides of the breast cup passing slightly above and to the inside of the center point of the breast cup and then this seaming reenforcement passes downwardly to the bottom of the breast cup substantially inside of the central edge of the breast cup.

Although various types of laminated fabrics or structures may be employed it has been found most satisfactory to use as the inside element a piece of felt with a cellulose acetate knitted tricot lamination to the inside piece of felt. Desirably this laminated face covering by the acetate tricot is in contact with the body and it is desirably provided with a plurality of closely spaced perforations to permit ready passage of air.

The two outside pieces of felt both have the upper and lower portions of the laminated breast cup construction and are desirably of a nonperforated felt, which are stitched together along the central reenforcing line of the junction and also along the side edges of the breast cups.

It is a particular feature of the present invention that the side vertical reenforcing bones or wires are provided with inside channels formed of facing fabric while the transverse reenforcing member which extends across the side and central portion of the breast cup have a front channel pocket member.

With the foregoing and other objects in view the invention consists of the novel construction, combination and arrangement of parts as hereinafter more specifically described, and illustrated in the accompanying drawings, wherein is shown an embodiment of the invention, but it is to be understood that changes, variations and modifications can be resorted to which fall within the scope of the claims hereunto appended.

In the drawings wherein like reference characters denote corresponding parts throughout the several views:

Fig. 1 is a front perspective view of one form of the brassiere according to the present invention showing the breast cup construction.

Fig. 2 is a vertical transverse sectional view upon the line 22 of Fig. 1 upon an enlarged scale as compared to Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a transverse horizontal sectional view upon the line 33 of Fig. 1 upon an enlarged scale as compared to Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary transverse sectional view upon the line 4-4 of Fig. 1 and upon an enlarged scale as compared to Fig. 1 showing the channel member receiving the reenforcing stiffening bone or wire.

Fig. 5 is a diagrammatic view with the bone: partly exposed and the covering channel partly removed to show the manner of construction of the breast cup of Figs. 1 to 3.

Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 5 but upon a somewhat smaller scale than Fig. 5 showingthe breast cup of Fig. 5 after it has been completed butbeforeattachment to'thev other portions of the garment.

Fig. 7 is a horizontaltransverse sectional view upon the line l-l' of Fig. 5..

Fig. 8 is a vertical transverse sectional view upon the line 3-8 of Fig. 5.

Fig. 9 is a fragmentary vertical. transverse sectional view upon the line 99 of Fig. 5 and upon an enlargedscale as compared to Fig. 5.

Referring to Fig. 1 there is shown a brassire garment with the breast cups A, the central separating elastic sections B, the side elastic sections C, and the rear lateral fabric sections D.

Under the. breast cup there are shown the sections E which extend down to the waistline F of the garment. The garment as shown is provided with the central reenforcing vertical bone or wire elements G and thelateral or side reenforcing elements H;

The garment is also provided with the central or right angular reenforcing elements J which extend between the upper breast cup sections K and the lower breast cup sections L.

Referring to Fig. 1 the garment as shown has the woven fabric sections E1 and D. The sections E, which are below the breast cups A, are out upon the bias as indicated by the arrows Ill, while the lateral woven sections as indicated at H are cut so that thewarp and filling will extend vertically.

An elastic band I2 extends across the-top of the garment the upper edge of which has a decorative finishing rufiie 13. This elastic edging l2 extends-across theentireupper periphery of the garment and completely around the body.

The sidesof the sections E and D are attached by the double seaming at M and to theone way lateral stretch elastic section C, the stretch of which is indicated at It. This elastic fabric C has its warp and filling extending vertically and horizontally as indicated at. IT.

The inside edges of the woven fabric E are attached by the double seaming. l8 and the channels G to the two elastic sections B. These narrow elastic sections are sewn together along the central seam I9 and their stretch is primarily along an oblique bias as indicated by the bias lines in Fig. l.

The weave of the elastic sections B is indicated by the double arrow 2|. The entire lower portion of the garment is finished by an in-- turned seam or finish which may form. part of the waistline of a brassiere slip or the terminal lower edge of a brassire. The brassiere is attached in back desirably by a double row of hook fasteners with suitable flaps so as to protect the skin of the wearer from the connections or fastenings. If desired, however, a side slide fasten ing may also be employed.

The invention is particularly directed to the construction of the breast cup which as best shown in Figs. 2, 3, 5, 7 and 8 is a three ply construction with each of the three plies forming the sections K and L and being joined along the right angular junction line J.

As indicated in Figs. 2 and 3 the inside sections and 36, consisting of felt with an inner facing of acetate tricot laminated thereto, are desirably perforated although unperforated material may also be employed. The intermediate upper and lower sections 31 and 38 respectively are desirably of. felt which is not covered by acetate tricot and which is not perforated.

The. outside felt elements 39 and 40 are also desirably not laminated with acetate tricot and also not perforated.

The structure of these felt pieces are best shown in Fig. 5. In the upper section the three felt elements 35, 3'! and 39 are joined together by stitching along their inside edge 4| and their right angular junction edge 42. However, the felt pieces 31 and 39 terminate at 43 short of the upper edge 44 of the inside piece 35 adjacent the top of the breast cup, and desirably the intermediate section 3'! terminates at 45 and 46 slightly inside of the edges 41 and 58- 0f the inside and outside sections 35and 39 (see Fig. 5).

The lower sections L are provided with conforming inside and outsid portions 36 and 40 as is best shown in Fig. 5.

However, the intermediate portions 38 terminates at substantially spaced from the edges 5E of theportions or layers 36 and 40. These sections as indicated are desirably stitched together at 5'! along the junction line J.

After the upper sections K and the lower sectionsL have been separately assembled they are stitched together and assembled with the right angular reenforcing structure and connection J. This is best shown in Figs. 5, 6 and 9.

The channel J extends on the exterior or the outside portion of the breast cup as contrasted to the channels G and H illustrated in large section in Fig. 4, which extendon the inside of the breast cup.

Referring to Fig. 9 there is shown the three plies 35, 3! and 3.9 of the upperv breast cup element K and the three plies 36, 38 and 40 of the lower breast cup element L. These elements have been previously stitched together by the stitching 42 and 51. They are now joined together by means of the box stitching 58. At the same time by the stitching 59 there is attached to them the reenforcing bone 60 with the inner channel member BI and the outer channel member 62.

The inner channel member 6| is desirably a cotton braid which will protect the bone, wire or plastic elements cutting into the garment or breaking out of the channel J.

The outer channel cover 62 consisting of an interlining cotton fabric desirably extends across the outside of the braid 3| as well as inside and under the bone 60. This channel structure together with the bone 60 are desirably attached along and on top of the scam in junction line 63 by a single sewing operation (see Fig. 9).

It will be noted by reference to Fig. 6 that this channel J extends from the point 64 on the side of the breast cup to the point 65 at the'bottom of the breast cup. However, the right angular bent wire or bone 60 desirably terminates at 66 short of the end of the pocket at 64 and also at 61 short of the bottom of the breast cup at 65. The edges 68 which are turned inwardly of the outer cotton interlining should extend under the side edges of the bones 60.

By this construction a breast cup is formed as indicated at Fig. 6 before attachment to the garment which already is form sustaining and which will not normally collapse and which does not require any rubber padding or reenforcement to give it the desired permanent shape.

Desirably the box stitching 58 to attach the edges of the breast cup elements K and L together is formed of the zigzag stitching whereas the stitching at 42, 51 and 59 is straight stitching.

The bone 60 is desirably of either a flat lastic strip or metal which has been coated with plastic for protective purposes.

Desirably the channel J consisting of the bone 60 and the strip BI and 62 is attached in the manner as indicated in Fig. 5 from the side edge 64 to the bottom edge 65 of the breast cup.

It will be noted that the side vertical bone reenforcements G and H diverge from the top of the brassiere to the waist of the brassiere. They also are sewn together with the attachment of the fabric sections B, C and E together in the manner described in connection with Figs. 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9, except that in this case the channel is usually joined inside of the structure.

As shown in Fig. 4 the bone is covered by the cotton braid 16 and the outer cotton innerlining 11 to form a channel upon the inside of the garment as indicated by the arrow 18 (see Fig. 4).

This channel structure H, which is the same as G, is mounted directly upon the junction upon the elastic section C and the upper triple breast section K having the outer face 39, the central face 31 and the inside face 35 joined together by stitching at 41. This channel is held down by the straight stitch 19.

The particular feature of the present invention resides in the two side vertical reenforcing bone structures G and H on the inside of the garment and along the side edges but inside the breast cup diverging downwardly in combination with a right angular reenforoement extending laterally across the outside portion and then vertically downwardly across the inside edge of the breast cup.

This structure is particularly unusual in providing a brassi ere as well as vertical side reenforcement of a breast cup in a strapless brassiere garment, and also in providing a triple layer of felt preferably treated with a water repellant material or to give it water repellancy.

Another feature of the construction is that the inner felt layer is faced with acetate tricot and also perforated and that each junction of the three layer construction is provided with reenforcing bone channels G, H and J as shown best in Fig. 1.

Instead of varying thicknesses of felt 35, 36, 31, 3'8, 39 and 40 one or more of these felt layers may be replaced by thin sheets of foam rubber or by conjunction sheets of foam rubber and felt.

The breast cups as shown may be used not only in brassieres and slips but also in bathing suits and even for some outer garments such as dresses, sportswear, sunback garments and two piece garments.

The invention as shown has its most particular application to all in one foundation garments but it may also be used for combination girdles and brassieres, corsets and brassieres and the like.

Where the brassiere portion of the garment be comes an integral part of the garment, or where the brassiere section is added inside of the garment as an independent element and the outer section of the garment fits over the brassire, it has been found that a most desirable fit and form of the garment is achieved.

As many changes could be made in the above brassiere construction, and many widely different embodiments of this invention could be made without departing from the scope of the claims, it is intended that all matter contained in the above description shall be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, what is claimed is:

1. A multi-ply brassiere having separated breast cups each composed of two fabric sections having different bias, one section forming the top and inside portions of the breast cup and the other section forming the lower outside portion of the breast cup and a seam joining said sections, said seam extending horizontally across the outer portion of the breast cup and curving inwardly and downwardly to the lower edge of the breast cup and a stiifening member attached to and extending along said seam.

2. The brassire of claim 1, said seam being provided with a channel member having a stiffening reinforcing fabric within the channel and said channel carrying said stiffening member.

3. The brassiere of claim 1, said breast cups being separated by two narrow downwardly converging sections of fabric extending the full height of the brassiere and having an oblique bias.

4. The brassiere of claim 1, the bias of the one section extending in a curve parallel to the seam and the bias of the other cup section extending horizontally.

5. A brassiere having separate breast cups, each breast cup having an upper breast cup woven section and a lower breast cup woven section, said woven sections being stitched together along a seam extending laterally and downwardly in a curved line from the outside edge of the breast cup and across the middle of the breast cup down to the lower edge of the breast cup and a stiffening element positioned along and attached to the breast cup at said seam and also extending in a curved line from the outside edge across the middle and down to the lower edge of the breast cup.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS:

Number Name Date 2,484,219 Glick Oct. 11, 1949 2,512,215 Rosenthal et a1. June 20, 1950 2,535,864 Plehn Dec. 26, 1950 2,553,036 Christensen May 15, 1951 2,578,175 Cuozzi Dec. 11, 1951 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 997,408 France Sept. 12, 1951

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