US843862A - Chart for drafting garments. - Google Patents

Description

N0- 8 43,862. PATENTS-D FEB. 12, 1907.

' R. H. BLACKBURN.

CHART FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

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UNITED RTATER PATENT @FFTGE.

CHART FOR DRAFTINGI GARMENT?- Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Feb. 12,1907.

Application filed August 21, 1906. Serial No] 331,479.

To (LZZ/ whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, RICHARD H. BLACK- BURN, a citizen of the United States, residing at New York, N. Y., have invented a new and useful Improvement inCharts for Drafting Garments, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to charts for drafting garments, and has particular reference to devices of the kind suggested for drafting skirts and similar garments.

Among the objects of this invention may be noted the following: to provide a chart from which practically every and any style of skirt or similar garment can be drafted without any change in the chart structure and by merely following the instructions usually accompanying the same to provide a chart for drafting skirts and similar garments which will constitute a standard for all sizes of such garments as well as all styles; to provide a chart which is simple in construction, easily handled for the purpose of drafting the garment, which presents no difficulties to even a novice, and which is a perfect guide to the production of skirts and similar garments.

T'Vith the above objects in View, and others which may be noted during the course of this description, my invention consists in the parts, features, and combinations hereinafter described and claimed.

In the drawings forming part of this description, Figure 1 is plan of the chart constituting my invention, and Fig. 2 is a diagram of one style or form of skirt which may be produced by the use of my chart.

Primarily it will be understood that the material of which the chart is or may be made is of no importance, it being obvious that the same may be made of light wood, stilt asteboard, and light metals, such as aluminium.

The chart is made or formed with an upper edge 1 and a lower edge 2, 30th of which are substantially concentric arcs of a circle. At one end these edges 1 and 2 are oined by a straight edge 3, forming what is technically called the front line, and is the base of the chart, as will be presently described. This edge is joined with the upper edge 1 so as to produce a slight obtuse angle and is joined with the lower edge 2 so as to produce a slight acute angle. At the opposite end of the chart its edge 4 is made substantially straight and may be provided with a projection 5 or any similar device in which may i be formed an aperture 6 or to which may be applied a device for hanging or suspending the chart. The upper curved edge 1 of the chart represents the waist-line, and the lower curved edge 2 represents the bottom line, of the skirt or similar article, and, as before stated, these edges are'concentric in order to produce the proper balance and hang of the skirt from top to bottom. The body of the chart is provided with three slots 7, 8, and 9, the same extending longitudinally of the chart and being arranged adjacent to the lower edge or bottom line of the chart, these slots also extending substantially at a right angle to the dart-lines 10, 11, and 12, respectively, which latter extend transversely of the chart and divide the latter into the front-gore space 13, first side-gore space 14, second side-gore space 15, and back-plaitgore space 16. The dart-lines 10, 11, and 12 represent the middle of the darts or seamline, and the curved converging lines adjacent each dart-line represent the outline of the darts, the several lines in each dart-section meeting at the slots, respectively.

The dart-sections at opposite ends are pro vided with scales, and each scale at its calibrations a ong the upper and lower lines of the chart is provided with notches 17, into which the point of a pencil or piece of chalk can be inserted in order to obtain accurate marking at the particular scale-line. On the upper edge of the chart and extending lengthwise thereof a waistscale 18 is produced, and on the lower edge, substantial y opposite the waist-scale, is produced a hip-scale 19. Between these two scales is run the back-plait line 20.

It will be noted that the front-gore space is smaller and that the scales thereof are more condensed than the space and the scales for the two side gores, the latter scales being for the hip and back darts, respectively, which are made larger in order to give more curvature to the hip and back lines, it being essential to obtain greater contraction in the latter places, as will be readily understood. WVhile the varims scales differ in point of degrees of their calibrations, it will be understood that they are all proportional for the purpose of producing an accurately out and formed skirt and for securing the proper hang of the latter.

Using the chart as a base or standard, many variations can be made therefrom in IIO order to produce changes in styles and forms of skirts, as by extending the gore-lines, by increasing or decreasing the length of the front line, and proportionately increasing and decreasing the back line, or by increasing or decreasing the width of the back plait or changing the hip and waist lines. These matters'will be clearly understood from the following description of the mode of using the chart, which will be set forth with particular reference to the diagram of Fig. 2.

Having produced a suitable large sheet of paper, the chart should be laid thereon with its straight edge A B along a straight edge of the paper, this edge of the chart representing the front of the skirt, and the line of said edge should be continued down as long as it is desired to have the front of the skirt. Then the upper and lower edges of the skirt should be marked by the upper and lower edges of the chart. The size of waist governs the other dimensions of the skirt. Hence if twentyfive be the waist size the position of said. number should. be dotted on the paper at each of the scales on the chart except the scale 19, and if the waist measurement is twenty-two and one-half the next inch size indicated on the chart, Fig. 1.

viz., 23 should be taken, as it is possible to turn the surplus material and impossible to add after once out without marring the appearance of the skirt. Then the proper hip measurement should be dotted at the scale 19as, for example, at 43, if the measurement be the latter or if it be fortytwo and one-half. Having placed the dots on the paper, as just indicated, they should be connected by lines from side to side, as Then the pen cil should be inserted in the slots 7, 8, and 9 and a straight line drawn the length of said slots, whereupon the darts should be shaped, as shown by the several curved lines on the chart, so as to bring them to a point with the straight dart-lines 10, 11, and 12 at the said slots or the lines drawn on the paper, which latter may be represented by C, D, and E. On the chart these several dart-lines, which meet at the cross-lines C, D, and E, should then be continued in the direction of the combined lines to the desired extent for the length of the side and back wanted. The several lengths thus produced after cutting along the lines indicated should be secured together at the bottom, as shown in the diagram of Fig. 2, wherein all the lengths of the skirt are shown as secured together along the proper lines in order to produce the proper shape. To make the requisite fullness in the back plait, as shown in the diagram of Fig. 2, five and one-half inches should be added along the length of the chart from the waistpoint G on the scale 18 of the chart. At the bottom of the back line G F,which has been continued to the lengthdesired, add sixteen inches or more in continuation of the length of the chart. These two additions at top and bottom of the skirt at the back give the proper fullness for the back plait. Assuming that the line G F has been drawn down the back, and which indicates the back seam, the paper should now be folded on said line in order to bring the back seam under to the line G F. Then the upper and lower edges should be trimmed while the material at the back is thus folded. This completes the measurements for a seven-gored skirt, for example.

Many additions and variations from these measurements may be made in order to secure the proper results for changes of style, size, 860.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. A chart for drafting garments having a substantially rectangular form, the longitudinal edges of which are formed of concentric curves joined at one end by a straight edge, and each of said curved edges being provided with a plurality of scales of different character.

2. A chart for drafting garments having a substantially rectangular outline, the longer edges of which are provided with scales arranged in opposing sets, the scales of the respective sets being joined by converging curved lines extending transversely of the chart.

3. A chart for garments having a substantially rectangular outline, and having formed in the body thereof a plurality of separated slots arranged in alinement with each other and extending longitudinally of the chart near one edge of the latter, and also having a plurality of sets of oppositely-curved lines extending transversely across its surface, the lines of each set converging at and intersecting, respectively, the said slots.

4. A chart for drafting garments having a substantially rectangular outline, and its longitudinal edges formed of substantially concentric curves joined at one end by a straight edge, a plurality of proportional scales disposed. along said curved edges in opposing sets, and said chart having at one end means by which it may be hung or suspended.

5. A chart for drafting garments having applied to its longitudinal edges a series of proportional scales, said scales being disposed in opposing pairs along the edges of the chart, and the latter also having a plurality of slots extending longitudinally thereof and disposed one between the scales of each pair.

6. A chart for drafting garments having a substantially rectangular outline and having a plurality of scales of different character disposed along each longitudinal edge thereof, and said edges having at each calibration of the several scales an open-sided notch for the reception of a pencil.

7. A chart for drafting garments having a substantially rectangular outline and having applied thereto a plurality of sets of oppositely-curved lines which divide said chart into at least four spaces, the hues of each set .l

having between them a straight line, and each set of lines having a scale at each end which bear a determinate relation to each other.

S. A chart for drafting garments having a substantially rectangular outline and the surface thereof divided into a front-gore space, a first side-gore space, a second sidegore space and a back-plait-gore space, the division being produced by curved lines representing darts which extend from side to side of the chart and converge at one side thereof.

9. A chart for garments having a subs antially rectangular outline and also having on its surface a plurality of sets of dart-scales, the scales of each set being disposed oppositely to each other along the longitudinal edges of said chart, and the latter also having on the surface thereof a waist-scale on one side and hip-scale on the other side, the

several dart-scales of the respective sets being joined by converging lines extending transversely of the chart.

10. A chart for drafting garments having a substantially rectangular form, the longitudinal edges of which are formed of concentrio curves joined at one end by a straight edge, said chart having in its body adjacent one of said curved edges a plurality of separated slots extending one in alinement with the others, and having along its said curved edges at opposite points a plurality of proportionate scales of different character, and the top surface of said chart being divided into four spaces by a plurality of sets of converging and intermediate straight lines, the vertex of the angle of each set intersecting an adjacent slot.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses, this 20th day of August, 1906.

RICHARD H. BLACKBURN.

\Vitnesses:

(Jr-ms. M00. CHAPMAN. M. Hnnsrrovrrz.

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