US769411A - Stiffener for coat-fronts. - Google Patents

Description

No. 769,411. PATENTED SEPT. 6, 1904.

' C. W. SCHWEICHLER.

STIPPENER FOR COAT FRONTS. APPLICATION FILED MAR. 23. 1904. NO MODEL.

Laza Z2757? l I a? Mm I Patented September 6, 1 904.

FFTcE.

CARL W. SCHWEIQIILER, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

ISTIFFENER FOR COAT-FRONTS.

sescrrleArlou for part of Letters Patent No. 769,411, dated September 6, 1904.

Application filed March 23,1904. Serial No. 199,520, IN d l.)

Be it known that I, GARLW'. Sonwnroiugnn, a citizen of the United States, residing at (lhicage, in the county of (look and State of lllinois, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Stiti'eners for Coat-Fronts, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact specilication.

This invention relates more particularly to that part of a coat-stiffener which extends down the front of each edge of the coat from the top of the shoulder for imparting form and stiffness thereto; and the invention has for one of its objects to provide improved means for imparting t0 the shoulder portion a concave-convex form that will make it conform to the hollow or contour of the shoulder and the collar.

\Vith these ends in View my invention consists in certain features of novelty, hereinaf ter described, by which the said object and certain other ob ects hereinafter appearmg are attained, all as fully described with reference to the accompanying drawings, and v more particularly pointed out in the claims.

In the said drawings, Figure 1 is an inside view of my improved coat-stiffener, showing its relation and connection to the shoulderpad. Fig. 2 is a transverse section thereof, taken on the line 2 2, Fig. I, looking in the direction of the arrows. Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 1 looking at the opposite side. Fig. & is an enlarged detail view of the two pieces of fabric before they are stitched together. Fig. 5 is a transverse section of the coat-stiffener, showing the method of holding it while being stitched; and Fig. 6 is an enlarged detail view showing the slot and gashes before they are stitched together.

In carrying out my invention I employ a layer of canvas 1 or of any other suitable material which in the example of the invention shown in the drawings is arranged on the outer side of the stiffener and secured to a layer of wigging 2, haircloth, or any other material usually employed for stiffening in garments by means of lines of stitching 3. These lines of stitching are curved approximately parallel with the edge of the stiffener, which is itself curved to conform to the edge I I I I I I I\ I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I of the coat in which it is to be used, and by thus curving the lines of stitching and holding the edge of the can as 1 elevated, so that it will assume the arc of a circle, as shown in Fig. 2, while the stitching is being done, the device will be given a dished form or curvature in the direction in which the canvas is bent or curved during the stitching operation, the lines of stitching being zigzag, as shown. This permanent curvature of the stiffener is caused partly by the stretching of the canvas and the contraction of the wigging or top layer 2 and partly by the curved charactor of the lines of stitching, which in themselves produce a tendency in the goods to dish. The curvature imparted to the arti- 'le by hand during the stitching operation is retained by the Zigzag stitching, which produces a tendency to draw transversely. order, however, that the curvature may be even, more positive, and permanent, I prefer to provide the canvas or the outer layer of material with one or more V-shaped gashes which when the stitching is produced are closed, as shown in Fig. 3, and, if desired, the edges of the gashes may be stitched to the wigging or layer of material 2 by stitching 5 before the stitching is commenced, or at least before the lines of stitching 2) cross the gashes.

At the upper part of the stiffener, extending downwardly in an oblique direction from a point near the upper edge, is an elliptical gash or aperture T. which is produced in the piece 1, preferably before the stitching 3, and when this piece and the other members of'the stiffener are secured together and combined with the pad 6 the edges of this gash T are drawn together and stitched, thereby imparting to the shoulder portion of the stiffener a concave-convex form, which makes it conform to the hollow of the shoulder and the collar.

The stifl'encr thus constructed may or may not. as desired, be formed integral with or secured to the shoulder-pad (5.

Having thus described my invention, what Iclaim as new therein, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is'-- i. As a new and useful article of manufacture, a coat-stiffener adapted toextend down the front side of the shoulder of the coat and having an elliptical gash or aperture extending downwardly from the top of the shoulder with the edges of such gash brought together and secured to make the shoulder part conform to the shoulder of the wearer and the collar.

2. As a new and useful article of manufacture, a coat-stiffener adapted to extend down the front side of the coat from the shoulder and comprising an outer layer of fabric, an inner layer of fabric having V-shaped gashes in the edge thereof, the edges of which gashes are brought together and secured, upwardlyextending lines of stitching whereby the layers are secured together to produce a convex form, and an elliptical gash or aperture in the shoulder part of said stiffener having its edges secured together and extending downwardly to make the shoulder part conform to the shoulder of the wearer and the collar.

CARL W. SCHWEICHLER. Witnesses:

F. A. HOPKINS, M. B. ALLSTADT.

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