US691284A - Shoe. - Google Patents

Description

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(Applicgion filed Aug. 24, 1901,)

3 Sheets-Sheet l.

(No Model.)

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Patented lan. I4, |902.

M. J. MOLNEY.

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(Application med Aug'. 24, 1901.1

3 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Model.)

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SHOE.

(Application filed Aug. 24', -1901J l 3 Sheets-Sheet lu/vanto:

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

MICHAEL J. MOLONEY, OF ROCHESTER, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TO JAMES A. MOLONEY, OF ROCHESTER, NEW YORK.

SHOE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N o. 691,284, dated January 14, 1902. Application iiled August 24, 1301. Serial No.v 73,163. (No model.)

To @ZZ whom it may concern.:

Be it known that I, MICHAEL J. MoLoNEY, a citizen of the United States, residing at Rochester, in the county of Monroe and State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in Shoes, of which the follow ingis a specification.

My invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of shoes, and pertains to the the outer sole in the ordinary-welt shoe in that when the shoe is ready to have the outer sole attached thereto there is a smooth outer surface for the reception of the sole anda smooth inner surface for the foot of the wearer. There is a saving in the lasting operation, and finally a shoe is produced which is when applied to spring-heel shoes absolutely nailless.

Referring now'to the drawings, Figure 1 is a perspective View of a completed shoe embodying my invention, the same being shownv in section to illustrate the relative positions of the welt, the upper, the inner sole, the outer sole, and the stitches for uniting the several parts. Fig. 2 is an inverted plan view of the several parts placed upon the last and tacked thereto ready to be stitched by means of a shoe-sewing machine. Fig. 3 is a transverse sectional view of the insole,showing the welt attached thereto and ready to be placed upon the last for the reception of the upper, all of which are afterward sewed together. Fig. 4 is a transverse View showing the insole, the welt, and the upper in their positions upon the last and the parts stitched together. Fig. isa top plan view of an upper, showing the Welt attached to the upper and ready to be placed upon the last, together with the insole, as distinguished from the attachment of the welt to the insole, as shown in Figs. 3 and 4, the upper being shown right side out. Fig. 6 is a transverse view of the upper turned wrong side out and after the. welt has been attached thereto.- Fig. 7 is a transverse view of the upper, the insole, and

the welt sewed together and turned right side out and ready to receive the outer sole.

Y In the manufacture of my improved shoe the insole lis placed inside out upon the last 2 and the Welt 3 is situated between the insole and the upper 4, as clearly illustrated in Fig. 4. The welt 3 in the method disclosed in Figs. 3 and 4 is attached to the insole in any suitable manner before the upper is applied thereto for the purpose of preventing the displacement thereof under the nal stitching operation in` uniting the upper, the insole, and the Welt. As here shown, the preferred means'of uniting the welt to the insole before the upper is applied is by means of a transverse row of fine stitching 9, though other means for uniting the Welt to the sole may be used. My preferred method, however, is to sew the welt 3 to the upper 4 before applying it to the insole, as shown in Fig. 5, instead of uniting it to the insole, as in Figs. 3 and 4. The Welt having been attached inside out to either the insole or theupper by any desired means, as just described, the insole is placed inside out upon the last 2 and the upper turned inside out and tacked thereto by tacks 6, as shown in Fig. 2.

By reference to Figs. 3 and 4 it 4 will be noted that in the positions of the parts the welt is entirely out of the way of the operator in sewing the welt and the upper to the chan- \n`e'l 7 of the insole and that the parts are in such a position as to be exceedingly convenient for the operator, Which enables himto much quicker sew the parts together thanis possible in the ordinary method of producing the ordinary-welt shoe, for the reason that in the old method of making welt-shoes the upper is placed right side out and the welt extends in the form of a lateral iange, whichis fulness and skill to properly unite the parts. In the use of my method this carefulness is not necessary, as the parts are in such a poin the Way of the operator and requires care- IOO sition that they are firmly held againstudisplacement and there is no laterally-extending member in the way of the operator.

After the parts have been stitched together by means of the stitches 8, which pass through the channelof the insole, the tacks having been removed, the projecting parts are cut offv by any suitable implement very quickly, as`

in the position shown in Fig. 4, and the cutting operation is conveniently performed. The result is asmooth inner surface, as illustrated in Figs. 1 and 7. The last is then removed and the shoe turned right side out, which produces a wide laterally-extending welt for the attachment of the outer sole, as shown in Fig. 7, and produces an upper with the welt and the insole attached thereto th'atfis remarkably iiexible. It willalso be noted from Fig. 7 that a smooth `outer surface for the attachment of the outer sole ispresented-and that there is no filling in lbetween theinner and outer sole, as in the ordinary-welt shoe,`

thus producing a shoe which will wearbetter, as Well as being cheaper to produce andmore flexible.

In the production of Welt-shoes'by the'rordinary method it is well understood'by those' skilled in the art that the welt is not extended around the heel of the shoe and. that the lower edge of the heel of the upper isA elongated and doubled around the heel portion .andnailed to the inner sole, which requires considerable time, as well as vproducing a shoe inferiorv to one in which the sewing, extends yaroundthe heel portion as well as the foot `and shank portions.

vBy reference to Figs. 1, 2, `and 5 it will be noted that I prefer' to extend my welt around the'heelportion aswell as the shank portion, and owing tothe relativegpositions ofthe parts whenvuniting them it is a convenient i and the heel, (in spring-heel shoes,) as-well as the other portions of the shoe, thus producing anailless shoe. This method will be pursued also in the use of the projecting heel in that the outer sole will be preferably sewed to the welt all around the lheel and then the heel nailed in position. This method of connecting' the outer sole is found to be a considerable saving in time over the method used in they ordinary-welt shoe, in which the welt eX- tends only to the heel portion, and the lower edge of the upper is then doubled under-the insole and nailed thereto, which method requires a filling in of the foot, the shank, and the heel portions and after which the outer sole and the heel are nailed in position.

lBy reference to Fig. 4t it will be noted that my invention being used with an insole having a flexible edge 5 enables the welt to extend downward between the sides of the last and the upper, thus taking up practically no room, so that the same last which is used when the parts are sewed together in their reversed positions, as in Fig. 4, will t the shoe for lasting purposes when it has been turned-right side out and still leave a wide projecting flange formed bythe welt, as

shown in Fig. 7, for the attachment of the outer sole by the usual sewing operation.

It is found in practice that my invention eifects an enormous saving in the cost of the production of a welt-shoe in addition to producing a superior-wearing shoe and a shoe exceedingly flexible. It is also found in practice that I am enabled to produce a babys welt-shoe by means of my invention, something which has not been practical heretofore, thus producing for children, babies, and women aV heavy-sole shoe practically as iiexible as the light-sole shoes heretofore made with the projecting-welt effect.

I am aware that heretofore turned'shoes inV which the upper has.` been attached to the outer sole have been produced, and am Aalso aware that a mock or-v false turned-welt shoe has heretofore been produced inwhich a welt is interposed between the upper land. the outer sole and the parts then turned for the purpose of producing an imitation-welt shoe. In this instance it willbe noted,how

ever, that the-welt does not perform the function of uniting the upper and'theinsole to an outer sole, but performs no function whatever, simply remaining'as an imitation.`

My invention is essentially different `from these prior turned shoes in that -a shoe is produced in which the welt serves as a means to unite the outer sole after the shoe is turned right-side out, which is not true of the prev-iousy turned shoes, thus making a new article in that I produce a turned-welt shoe and notrwhat isknown asa turned shoe or a lmock or false turned-welt shoe. It will also be noted by reference especially to Figs. 3l

and t that I prefer kto use my invention in connection with an insole which has its edges i tapered or cut away outward, as shown at 5,

whereby the insole is provided with a projectingexible flange that will bend and conform to the curve of the upper and welt when turned inside out, as in Fig. 4. This enables the same last to-be used when the upper is either wrong Vor right side out and the size of the shoe to be accurately determined, which is not true with a turned shoe or a turned mock-welt shoe, if the edge of the outer sole be extended any appreciable distance.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. A turned-welt shoe comprising an insole, a welt and an upper both attached to the inner face of the insole, the welt located between the insole and the upper and having its outer edge projecting outward beyond the edge of the insole, and an outer sole attached to the projecting edge of the welt.

2. A turned-welt shoe comprising an insole IOO IIO

having its edge tapered downwardly and outwardly, a welt and an upper seated against said tapered portion with the welt located between the insole and the upper, the outer edge of the welt projecting and khaving its lower face substantially in a plane with the outer face of the insole, and an'outer sole at tached to theprojecting portion of the welt.

beyond the insole entirely therearound, and an outer sole sewed to the welt entirely around the upper including the heel portion, thus producing a nailless shoe.

- 5. .A turned-welt shoe adapted to have its insole, upper andwelt connected Wrong side out, the insole having fa projecting iiexible ange, the welt located between the 'upper f and the iiexible Iiange 'of the insole and haw ing an outwardly-projecting portion when the parts are turned right side out, andan outer sole attached to said outwardly-projecting portion of the welt.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand in the presence of two subscribing 3 witnesses. t

v MICHAEL J. MOLONEY.

Witnessesz.

'JOHN W. MoREgY,

J AMES A. MOLONEY.

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