US339286A - gascoine - Google Patents

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US339286A
US339286A US339286DA US339286A US 339286 A US339286 A US 339286A US 339286D A US339286D A US 339286DA US 339286 A US339286 A US 339286A
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shoes
center piece
boots
sewing
manufacture
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B9/00Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
    • A43B9/08Turned footwear

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  • This invention relates to a method or process of making boots and shoes 5 and it consists, essentially, in the sewing of a center piece to a reversed upper, turned inside out, then turning the same and inserting the stiffener, securing the lining and light insole, and finally shaping the flexible bag so obtained on an expandinglast, sewing the outsole thereto, and finishing the article in the ordinary manner, substantiall y as hereinafter fully described.
  • the object of this invention is to simplify the manufacture of boots and shoes, and producing a lighter and cheaper article than is the case in the ordinary mode of making these articles.
  • FIG. 1 is an elevation of the upper and what we term the center piece united and turned wrong side out.
  • Fig. 2 is a section through the upper and center piece.
  • Fig. Sis a View of part of the same more nearly finished, and
  • Fig. a shows the upper and center piece completely united, with the stiffener inserted and ready for the in and out soles.
  • Fig. 5 is a vertical longitudinal section of the finished shoe, and Fig. (i is a like transverse section thereof on line a: x of Fig. 5.
  • Ve take an upper, cut and prepared for use in the usual manner, and turn the same inside out.
  • XVe next take a piece of light soft leather, cloth, or other suitable flexible material,of proper size and shape for the boot or shoe when completed,and unite the two by sewing or felling their edges, as shown in Fig. 2.
  • This piece of light leather or other suitable material we term the center piece, and in the accompanying drawings we have indicated it (No model.)
  • the bag is now ready for the last, and is secured to an expanding-last, which is adjusted so as to completely fill out the shoe to the required size and shape, and the stiffener is beaten into its proper place by gentle blows, care being taken not to injure the seam at the edge of the center piece, B.
  • the outer sole, S is now adjusted and sewed onin the ordinary manner, the center piece being kept somewhat Smaller than said outer sole,so that the stitches s, which attach the outer sole, may pass through the upper A outside or clear of the line of stitching that unites said upper and the center piece, B.

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  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Description

(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1. J. J. GASGOINE & G. A. ROYCE.
MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS OR SHOES.
No. 339,286. Patented Apr. 6, 1886.
N. pnzns. Fhnlc-Lxkhogn'phcr. Washington. 0. a
(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2. J. J. GASGOINE 82 G. A. ROYCE. MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS 0R SHOES.
No. 339,286. Patented Apr. 6, 1886.
u PETERS PhulwLilhognphcr, Walhinglon. u. c.
UNTTED STATES PATENT OFFICE.
JOHN JAMES GASCOINE AND GEORGE APPELBEE ROYCE, OF LEICESTER, ENGLAND.
MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES.
EPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 339,286, dated April 6, 1886.
Application filed November 24, 1855. Serial No. 183,839.
To (LZZ whom it may concern.-
Be it known that we, Joi-rn JAMES Gasconvn and GEORGE APPELBEE ROYCE, subjects of the Queen of Great Britain, residing at Leicester,
lngland, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description.
This invention relates to a method or process of making boots and shoes 5 and it consists, essentially, in the sewing of a center piece to a reversed upper, turned inside out, then turning the same and inserting the stiffener, securing the lining and light insole, and finally shaping the flexible bag so obtained on an expandinglast, sewing the outsole thereto, and finishing the article in the ordinary manner, substantiall y as hereinafter fully described.
The object of this invention is to simplify the manufacture of boots and shoes, and producing a lighter and cheaper article than is the case in the ordinary mode of making these articles.
In carrying out our invention we proceed as follows, reference being had. to the accompanying drawings, whereby our improved mode of manufacture is made more intelligible than would be the case without such drawings, in which- Figure 1 is an elevation of the upper and what we term the center piece united and turned wrong side out. Fig. 2 is a section through the upper and center piece. Fig. Sis a View of part of the same more nearly finished, and Fig. a shows the upper and center piece completely united, with the stiffener inserted and ready for the in and out soles. Fig. 5 is a vertical longitudinal section of the finished shoe, and Fig. (i is a like transverse section thereof on line a: x of Fig. 5.
Ve take an upper, cut and prepared for use in the usual manner, and turn the same inside out. XVe next take a piece of light soft leather, cloth, or other suitable flexible material,of proper size and shape for the boot or shoe when completed,and unite the two by sewing or felling their edges, as shown in Fig. 2. This piece of light leather or other suitable material we term the center piece, and in the accompanying drawings we have indicated it (No model.)
by B, the upper being indicated by A, and in Fig. 2 Aindicates the right side of the upper, and A the line of stitches, the lining C for the upper being left free and untouched for the present. The upper A and center piece, B, having been sewed together all around, as described, they form a soft flexible bag, which is easily turned by hand, and this operation is next performed, and for the completion of the article the bag A B C, Fig. 4-, remains turned right side out. The back part of the lining (l is, however, left standing, as shown in Fig. 3, and the ordinary stiffener,D,(shownin dotted lines, Figs. 2 and 3,) of leather or other suitable material, is now placed in position and secured by means of paste or equivalent, and the back of the lining is now turned in, and is also secured with paste or equivalent to hold it in place while the articleis completed. The complete bag obtained in this manneris shown in Fig. 4, and is so soft and flexible thatin the case of thin shoes and the like it can readily be crumpled up in the hand. \Ve now prepare a light insole, S, of leather or other suitable material of the proper shape, but much lighter than the insoles usually employed, which is secured in the bag witha little paste. The bag is now ready for the last, and is secured to an expanding-last, which is adjusted so as to completely fill out the shoe to the required size and shape, and the stiffener is beaten into its proper place by gentle blows, care being taken not to injure the seam at the edge of the center piece, B. The outer sole, S,is now adjusted and sewed onin the ordinary manner, the center piece being kept somewhat Smaller than said outer sole,so that the stitches s, which attach the outer sole, may pass through the upper A outside or clear of the line of stitching that unites said upper and the center piece, B.
From what'has been said it is obvious that by our improved mode or process of making boots and shoes the cost of making the same is materially reduced, great flexibility and lightness being obtained, and, as no nails are used, the danger of wounding the foot of the wearer is obviated.
e do not desire to claim herein the article obtained by the described process, as we have claimed the same in a separate application for Patent filed on or about September 8, 1885,
Serial No. 176,47 8; but
What we do claim is- 1. lhe herein-described mode or process of making boots and shoes, which consists of sewing a center piece, B, to the reversed upper, turning the latter right side out and inserting the stiffener, adjusting and securing the lining in position and inserting an insole, shaping the article on an expanding-last, and sewing thereto the outsole, as described.
2. The herein-described mode or process of making boots and shoes, which consists in sewing a centerpiece,B, smaller than the outsole, to the reversed upper, turning the latter right
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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ITMC20130004A1 (en) * 2013-01-25 2014-07-26 Giuliano Balestra Designer Di Bales Tra Giuliano PROCESS OF PROCESSING FOR THE REALIZATION OF PRE-ASSEMBLED SOFT AND FLEXIBLE FOOTWEAR.

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ITMC20130004A1 (en) * 2013-01-25 2014-07-26 Giuliano Balestra Designer Di Bales Tra Giuliano PROCESS OF PROCESSING FOR THE REALIZATION OF PRE-ASSEMBLED SOFT AND FLEXIBLE FOOTWEAR.

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