US5421A

US5421A - Making shirts

Info

Publication number: US5421A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1848-02-01
Anticipated expiration: 1865-02-01

Description

0. P. WINGHESTER. METHOD 0F GUTTINGAND HTTING SHIRTS.

Patented Feb, 1, 1848.

y UNITED STATES OFFICE.

O. F. VINGHESTER, OF BALTIMORE, MARYLAND.

MAKING SHIRTS.

Specification of Letters Patent No. 5,421, dated February 1, 1848.

To all whom t may concern Be it known that I, O. F. IVINCHESTER, of the city of Baltimore and State of Maryland, have invented new and useful Improvements in the Method of Cutting and Fitting Shirts, and that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the principle or character which distinguishes them fro-m all other things before known and of the manner of making, constructing, and using the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, making part of this specification, in which- No. 1 shows a general outline of the neck and shoulders of a man and the different modes practiced in fitting a shirt; No. 2 is a representation of the French yoke; N o. 3 is the improved yoke.

The methods of cutting shirts heretofore and at present practiced is accompanied with a disadvantage which all have more or less experienced, viz: that of pulling on the neck band. Attempts to remedy this evil have been made; by one plan a gusset is let in on the shoulder and next to the neck band, the shirt then forming a straight line from the gusset to the tip of the shoulder, the effect of which is to hang the whole weight of the shirt aided by the tension of the suspender, to the neck band. By another method, called the French yoke, the seam is made diagonal from the tip of the shoulder to the neck band which only remedies the evil in part, but this does not give the proper support,` for the shoulder being a hollow curve, when the suspender is applied it bears o-n thehollow partl of the shoulder and of necessity pulls down the shirt and draws on the neck band.

The object of my invention is to remedy this evil, and this I effect by making a curved seam on the top of and corresponding with the curve of that part of the shoulder which extends from the arm to the neck so that the shirt shall be supported on the shoulder and thereby avoid a pull on the neck band. The bosom is also curved out on each side which aids the effect produced by so cutting the shirt and also serves to make it fit better.

The ordinary mode of cutting shirts is shown in the diagram No. 1 by red dotted lines (a, a) in this method it will be seen there is no attempt made to fit the form, but the whole of the upper part of the shirt is suspended by the collar which is buttoned around the small part of t-he neck tight enough for that purpose; this produces a very unpleasant sensation and the shirt bosom is always out of place on account of the great quantity of loose cloth upon the shoulder which allows it to drag down.

The French yoke is shown in N o. l by the black dotted lines b) and it is likewise represented in No. 2. This plan it will be perceived only partially removes the difficulty-it approaches somewhat nearer the form but still the two points of support are the tight collar around the small part of the neck and the point of the shoulder (o) at the end of the yoke the intermediate space is above the shoulder and when the suspender is brought over it is obvious a drag is produced upon the collar downward producing a similar sensation to the other.

To obviate all these objections I cut the neck of the shirt or the yoke which I prefer to use with a curve on the shoulder making a seam on the center of the shoulder as is shown in diagram No. '3, and by the black lines No. 1, (d) by which it will be seen that I cut the parts so as to bring all the pressure upon the shoulder at the points (e) easing it off a little toward the collar, so as not to choke, but still fitting the neck sutliciently well. By this mode I suspend the shirt upc-n the shoulders and preserve a perfect tit around the neck and upper part of the bosom; to fit more perfectly I cut away the bosom on each side where it joins the yoke in the curved line (f, this draws back the edges of the bosom and fits it to the body.

`What I claim as my invention and desire to secure by Letters Patent is- Constructing the neck of a shirt or yoke in the manner described by having a curved seam on the top of the shoulder, substantially in the manner and for the purpose set forth. y

O. F. WINCHESTER.

Vitnesses:

J. W. TI-IAYER, A. P. BRowNE.