US298401A - Staying-piece for garments - Google Patents

Staying-piece for garments Download PDF

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Publication number
US298401A
US298401A US298401DA US298401A US 298401 A US298401 A US 298401A US 298401D A US298401D A US 298401DA US 298401 A US298401 A US 298401A
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Prior art keywords
slit
sewed
overlap
edge
garment
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41BSHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B1/00Shirts
    • A41B1/08Details

Definitions

  • My invention relates to that class of attachments made to garment slit-openings, and more particularly to the back openings and sleeve side openings of shirts, the purposes of which are to'produce an overlap or fly for button-connection and to stay the bottom of the slit-opening, so as to prevent its being torn thereat.
  • One feature of my invention consists, as will be more fully detailed hereinafter, in the combination,with the usual form of slit-opening made in garments to produce a fly-opening for button attachment, of a cross-slit made at the bottom of the usual slit and at right angles thereto,for the frontward passage of the longitudinally-folded outer and inner facing of the under lap to be connected to and with the inner facing of the overlap.
  • My invention also consists in the combination, with the usual form of slit-opening for producing a button-fly lap, of a transverse slit made at the bottom of and at right angles to the former, two plackets or pieces of fabric, each of the same size and rectangular form, and of a sufficientwidth, when folded longitudinally,to produce from one of them the overlap and.
  • Figure l shows apart of a shirt-back containing the usual form of vertical slit, and also a transverse slit made in the fabric at the bottom of the vertical slit.
  • This figure also shows the two plackets and their rectangular form, they being shown as attached on one of their side edges to one side of the vertical slit, and as turned up at their ends, to better illustrate the position of the transverse slit.
  • Fig. 2 illustrates the position of the two plackets after having each been folded longitudinally, with the turned-in edge of one side of each placket attached to one side of the vertical slit, and that one of the plackets forming the underlap is shown as passed frontwardly and through the transverse slit, preparatory.
  • FIG. 3 shows in a reversed position of the parts the attachment of the turned-up end of the u'nderlap to the inner facing of the overlap and shirt-back after the longitudinally-folded underlap has been passed through the transverse slit, as indicated at Fig. 2.
  • Fig. 4 illustrates the same parts and their position as indicated at Fig. 3, but with the overlap folded over and down longitudinally, with its edge turned in and exteriorly sewed to the gar ment, and with its facings on the outer edge of its fly-fold sewed together throughout their length, and so as to attach the coincident/edge of the turned-up end of the underlap.
  • Fig. 5 shows a back view of the connected parts.
  • Fig. 6 is a front view of the attachment as completed,with the-button-fly or overlap and the underlap opened out to show their position.
  • Fig. 7 illustrates a section taken horizontally on the line as w of Fig. 6, but with the underlap beneath the overlap, and not with them spread apart, as in said Fig. 6.
  • Figs. 3, 4, and 5 the length of the parts is shown as reduced for convenience in illustration.
  • the letters A A indicate two plackets of equal size, and having the same rectangular form, the one designated at A being applied to produce, when folded and connected, the button-fly or overlap, and that indicated at A to form the underlap.
  • the letter D designates a part of the shirtback or garment, and O a vertical slit made therein, of which a c are its side edges; and Tindicates a transverse slit made in the shirt or garment at the bottom of the vertical slit.
  • Both of the plackets are folded longitudinally at d, afterhaving been each sewed to one edge of the vertical slit, as shown at S in Fig. 1, and the other vertical edges of each placket are turned in where attached to the fabric exterior away from the slit edge, as designated at S".
  • the overlap as produced from the placket A is indicated at L, and the underlap as made from the placket A is designated at L
  • the placket A after having been sewed to the edge e of the vertical slit, is folded over and down on the fold-line d, and on itsturned-in outer edge is attached to the garment exterior above the transverse slit, as indicated at S", and also to the upper edge of the latter at S", and is then passed frontwardly through said transverse slit, turned up, and at S sewed to the inner facing-fold of the overlap before the longitudinal fold at d has been laid, and before the ex terior facing of the overlap has been on its outer edge sewed to the garment.
  • FIG. 4 the frontwardly-passed folded placket A of the underlap, where turned up at the end, is shown as sewed on its edges to the inner facing of the overlap, and to the garment where subtending the latter horizontally, and as cross-sewed to the lower edge of the transverse slit at at S
  • a combined button-lap and stay thus made and attached has the advantage of a strong crotch-stay, produced from the frontwardlypassed and turned-up end of the placket forming the underlap, and which accumulation of material, where thus desirable, I am able to apply by the intervention of the cross-slit at the bottom of the vertical slit.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)

Description

(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 1.
G. W. PINE.
STAYING PIECE FOR GARMENTS. No. 298,401. Patented May 13, 1884.
u. PETERS. Phuwuwgn w, washfn gion. D. c.
(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 2.
G. W. PINE.
STAYING PIECE FOR GARMENTS.
ented May 13,1884.
7752 66;" 5 Ma/ M $4M J, W
(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 3.
G. W. PINE. STAYING PIECE FOR GABMBNTS.
Patented May 13,
I I I I I I I 1 man 1.
N. PETHIS. PhaloLhmgnphar. Wuhinm n. c
UNrrEn STATES FFICEO PATE T STAYING-PIECE FOR GARMENTS,
QPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 29 8,%O1, dated May 13, 1884-.
Application filed January 31, 1884. (No model.)
.T all whom, it may concern:
Be it known that I, G ORGE W. PINE, of
, the city of Troy, county of Bensselaer, State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Combined Button-Laps and Staying-Pieces for Garment Slit-Openings, of which the following is a specification.
My invention relates to that class of attachments made to garment slit-openings, and more particularly to the back openings and sleeve side openings of shirts, the purposes of which are to'produce an overlap or fly for button-connection and to stay the bottom of the slit-opening, so as to prevent its being torn thereat.
One feature of my invention consists, as will be more fully detailed hereinafter, in the combination,with the usual form of slit-opening made in garments to produce a fly-opening for button attachment, of a cross-slit made at the bottom of the usual slit and at right angles thereto,for the frontward passage of the longitudinally-folded outer and inner facing of the under lap to be connected to and with the inner facing of the overlap.
My invention also consists in the combination, with the usual form of slit-opening for producing a button-fly lap, of a transverse slit made at the bottom of and at right angles to the former, two plackets or pieces of fabric, each of the same size and rectangular form, and of a sufficientwidth, when folded longitudinally,to produce from one of them the overlap and. from the other the under-lap, and each of them having a sufficient length to subtend the transverse slit, with the placket forming the underlap, after having been folded longitudinally and attached on one side (its edge being turned in) to one side of the vertical slit, and the turned-in edge of its other side to the garment exterior, and then passed frontwardly through the transverse slit, to be sewed to the upper edge of thelatter, and the inner face of the overlap, with the placket forming the overlap, after having been folded longitudinally, and on the turned-in edge of one side sewed to one side of the vertical slit, and on the turned-in edge of the other side sewed to the garment eXterior,with its subtending end sewed to the lower edge of the transverse slit and garment exterior.
Accompanying this specification, and forming a part of it, there are three sheets of drawings, containing seven figures illustrating my invention, with the same designation of parts by letter-reference used in all of them.
Of these illustrations, Figure lshows apart of a shirt-back containing the usual form of vertical slit, and also a transverse slit made in the fabric at the bottom of the vertical slit. This figure also shows the two plackets and their rectangular form, they being shown as attached on one of their side edges to one side of the vertical slit, and as turned up at their ends, to better illustrate the position of the transverse slit. Fig. 2 illustrates the position of the two plackets after having each been folded longitudinally, with the turned-in edge of one side of each placket attached to one side of the vertical slit, and that one of the plackets forming the underlap is shown as passed frontwardly and through the transverse slit, preparatory. to sewing it to the latter and the inner facing of the overlap. Fig. 3 shows in a reversed position of the parts the attachment of the turned-up end of the u'nderlap to the inner facing of the overlap and shirt-back after the longitudinally-folded underlap has been passed through the transverse slit, as indicated at Fig. 2. Fig. 4illustrates the same parts and their position as indicated at Fig. 3, but with the overlap folded over and down longitudinally, with its edge turned in and exteriorly sewed to the gar ment, and with its facings on the outer edge of its fly-fold sewed together throughout their length, and so as to attach the coincident/edge of the turned-up end of the underlap. Fig. 5 shows a back view of the connected parts. Fig. 6 is a front view of the attachment as completed,with the-button-fly or overlap and the underlap opened out to show their position. Fig. 7 illustrates a section taken horizontally on the line as w of Fig. 6, but with the underlap beneath the overlap, and not with them spread apart, as in said Fig. 6. In Figs. 3, 4, and 5 the length of the parts is shown as reduced for convenience in illustration.
The several parts of the attachment are designated by letter-reference, and the process steps by which they are connected are detailed as follows:
The letters A A indicate two plackets of equal size, and having the same rectangular form, the one designated at A being applied to produce, when folded and connected, the button-fly or overlap, and that indicated at A to form the underlap.
The letter D designates a part of the shirtback or garment, and O a vertical slit made therein, of which a c are its side edges; and Tindicates a transverse slit made in the shirt or garment at the bottom of the vertical slit. Both of the plackets are folded longitudinally at d, afterhaving been each sewed to one edge of the vertical slit, as shown at S in Fig. 1, and the other vertical edges of each placket are turned in where attached to the fabric exterior away from the slit edge, as designated at S". I
The overlap as produced from the placket A is indicated at L, and the underlap as made from the placket A is designated at L To make the latter, the placket A after having been sewed to the edge e of the vertical slit, is folded over and down on the fold-line d, and on itsturned-in outer edge is attached to the garment exterior above the transverse slit, as indicated at S", and also to the upper edge of the latter at S", and is then passed frontwardly through said transverse slit, turned up, and at S sewed to the inner facing-fold of the overlap before the longitudinal fold at d has been laid, and before the ex terior facing of the overlap has been on its outer edge sewed to the garment.
At Fig. 4 the frontwardly-passed folded placket A of the underlap, where turned up at the end, is shown as sewed on its edges to the inner facing of the overlap, and to the garment where subtending the latter horizontally, and as cross-sewed to the lower edge of the transverse slit at at S The overlap L, as produced from the placket A, is shown at Fig. 1 with the edge of the placket attached to the edge a of the vertical slit, and at Fig. 2 as folded over and down on the line of such union, and then folded 1ongitudinally 011 the fold-line d. After the lower end of the underlap has been passed through the transverse slit, turned up, and attached to the inner facing-fold of said overlap, as shown at Figs. 4. and 5, then the outer edge of the placket A, thus forming the overlap, is sewed to the garment exterior. The placket is also sewed horizontally to the lower edge of the transverse slit at S and border sewed to the garment below the slit, as indicated at a". The fiy-edges of both the overlap and underlap where folded at d d, are sewed together, as designated at m W.
A combined button-lap and stay thus made and attached has the advantage of a strong crotch-stay, produced from the frontwardlypassed and turned-up end of the placket forming the underlap, and which accumulation of material, where thus desirable, I am able to apply by the intervention of the cross-slit at the bottom of the vertical slit.
Having thus described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent,
1. In a combined button-lap and stay for garment-slit openings, the combination of a cross-slit made in the garment below the vertical slit-opening, an overlap attached to one side of the garment above the cross-slit, an underlap attached to the other side of the garment-slit above the cross-slit, with the underlap sewed to the upper edge of the crossslit, and its lower end passed frontwardly through said cross-slit, turned up, and sewed to the inner facing of the overlap, and the latter sewed to the lower edge of the cross-slit, as shown and described.
'2. In a combined button-lap and stay for garmentslit openings, the combination of the cross-slit T at the bottom of the slit 0, the plackets A A each attached, as shown, upon one of their side edges to one of the opposite sides of said slit 0, and each folded longitudinally and attached on their other sides to the garment exterior above the cross-slit, with the folded placket A attached to the upper edge of said cross-slit, passed frontwardly through the latter, turned up, and sewed to the inner facing of the placket A, and the latter sewed to the lower edge of the cross-slit and the garment exterior, below the latter, as shown and described.
Signed at the city of Troy, New York, this 18th day of January, 1884, and in our presence whose names were hereto by us written.
GEORGE W". PINE.
\Vitnesses:
CHARLES S. BRINTNALL, J AMES R. TORRANCE.
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