US337383A - Method of seoueim bosoms to shirt bodies - Google Patents

Description

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v O.J. GOYLE. METHOD OF SECURING BOSOMS TO SHIRT BODIES. No. 337,383 Patented Mar. 9,1886.

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cjJmooY E. METHOD OF- SECURING BUS-OMS TO SHIRT BODIES.

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G. J. GOYLE.

METHOD OF SECURING BOSOMS IO SHIRT BODIES. No. 337,383. Patented Mar. 9, 1886.

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NITED' STATES,

PATENT ()FFIEE.

CHARLES J. COYLE, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOR TO EBENEZER JEN- NINGS, ALBERT .B. PULLMAN, AND AARON LONGSTREET, ALL OF SAME PLACE.

METHOD OF SECURING BOSOMS TO SHIRT-BODIES.

SFECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 337,383, dated March 9, 1886. Application flied March 1, 1884. Serial No. 122,711. (No model.)

To aZZ whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, CHARLES J. Cons, residing at Chicago, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois, and a citizen of the United States, have invented a new and useful Improvement in the Manufacture of Shirts, of which the following is a full description, reference 'being had to the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure 1 shows the side or re-enforcing pieces for the front, the bosom and the shoulder-pieces and neckband detached. Fig. 2 shows the backing-piece for the bosom. Fig. 3 shows the front of the shirt-body. Fig. :5 shows the several parts composing the front,

neck, and shoulders secured together. Fig. 5 shows the manner of turning the front to at tach the ncckband. Fig. 6 shows in outline the manner of attaching theneckband. Fig. 7 shows in outline the manner of attaching the pieces composing the front. Fig. 8shows in outline the manner of attaching one edge of the pieces composing the front. Fig. 9shows in outline the manner of attaching both edges of the pieces composing the front. Fig. 10 is a view showing the formation of the back. Fig. 11 shows the back with one side turned down. Fig. 12 represents views showing the -form of the binding for the opening in the back. Figs. 13 and 14 are views showing the sleeve and the means for retaining the cuff pulled up, the views showing the retaining strap in the two positions in which it is used.

This invention has for its object to improve the manufacture of shirts; and to such end it consists in the method hereinafter described and claimed.

In the drawings, A represents the front portion of the body of the shirt.

B represents the side pieces of the front, which pieces are cut with the front A,with an opening, B, between them for the location of the bosom. The front A has side edges, a, for

. sewing to the back edges, and the side pieces. B, have edges a for the sleeve, and edges a for sewing to the shoulder-pieces, and edges 6 b for sewing to the bosom the backing for the bosom and the re-enforcing pieces on each side of the bosom.

the following manner:

0 represents the re-enforcing pieces-one 0 for each side of the bosom,as usual-each having an edge, 0, for sewing to the edge of the bosom, an edge, e, for the sleeve, an edge, 0 for the shoulder-piece, and an edge, e, to be stitched to the side piece, B.

Dis the bosom, which may be cut in the shape shown, or in some other desired shape, having edges d for sewing to the side pieces,

B, and re-enforcing pieces 0, an edge, d, at the bottom to be sewed to a stay-piece, and an edge, d, for the neckband.

E is the backing or re-enforcement for the bosom, cut to conform to the shape of the bosom, having side edges, 6, and bottom edge,

e, and a top edge, 6, corresponding to the edges d d d of the bosom.

These parts A. B, G. D, and E constitute the front of the shirt, and are sewed together 1n The edges 1), c, d, and e on one side of the respective pieces are brought together, as shown by the outline 1n Fig. 8, and are secured by a row of stitching,

m, as shown in Fig. 8. The body A of the shirt the other side, B and 0, thereof are then turned and folded, so as to lie between 7 the backing E,and the bosom D, and the other edges b, c, d, and e are brought together and Secured by a row of stitching correspond ng to m, the parts then being in the posit on shown in Fig. 9, with the body of the sh rtfront and side pieces and the re-enforcing pieces inclosed between the bosom-back Eand the bosom D, and these parts, after the side seams, m, are formed, are withdrawn through the" hole at the bottom of the bosom, which turns the front right side out, leaving the seams m inside, asshown in Fig. 7. The lower end, 6, of the backing E is folded before its edges are secured, and after the edges are secured this turned-down edge e is stitched to 0 the body A.

'F is the main portion of the back.

G represents the side pieces of the back, cut with the portion F, and divided bya vertical cut, as usual. The body of the back F has 5 edges f, which, when the parts are together, are sewed to the edges a, and the side pieces, G, have an edge, 9, which is sewed to the sleeve, and an edge, 9, which is sewed to the shoulder-piece.

H H represent the binding or facing piece for the Opening between the side pieces, G, of

the back. This piece H H is made of two pieces, each having side edges, h, between which, when folded over, the edge g is placed and stitched, and one half of each piece H H is shorter, when folded, than the other half,

:0 and this short portion hasa diagonal edge, h,

below which the end h of the other half projects when folded, as shown in Fig. 12. The diagonal edges h of the pieces H Hare sewed together, as shown in Fig. 11, and when together and the facing or binding is folded and stitched to the edges 9 a tab or end, It, will be on each side of the back at the bottom of the slit in the back and stitched in that position, so that the back can be opened, as shown in Fig. 1], and when so opened it will be seen that the union at the base of the slit formed by the pieces H H,sewed together in a diagonal line, is one which cannot be torn readily, as the line of stitching is diagonal to the direction of the opening.

I designates the rear shoulderpieces or yokes. each having an edge, 'i, for the backopening, an edge, 2', to be stitched to the sleeve, and side edges to be stitched to the edges a, c, and g, as usual; or one side edge can be stitched to an interposed piece between the shoulder-pieces and thefront, as shown in Fig. 4.

J designatesinterposed strips,stitched to the edge of the shoulder-piece or yokes and to the front, and having an edge, j, for the neckband and an edge,j', for the sleeve.

K represents the neckband, which is folded and stitched to the edges d, e", t, and j. This 40 neckband may be stitched in place, as shown by the outline in Fig. 6, so as to have the line ofstitching hid,to do which the shirtis turned, as shown in Fig. 5, and the neckband stitched on its edges and the edges of the shirt, by

5 bringing such edges in line, the same as the bosom is arranged for stitching, and after be ing stitched, turning the shirt, bringing the seam formed by the stitching inside; or the neckband can be secured to the shirt in the usual manner by stitching through from the outside.

L represents the sleeves formed, as usual, with a wristband, L, and stitched into the armholes in the usual manner. Each sleeve,

on its upper forearm, has sewed thereto a tag, Z, with one or more slits for the reception of a stud, and to each sleeve, at the terminus of the Wristopening, is attached a strap or facing, Z, provided with a series of slits to receive the stud in the tag Z, or to receive the stud in the wrist-band. By means of this strap or facing the sleeve can be pulled up and held in that position by buttoning the strap Z onto the stud in the tag Z; or the sleeve can be left down and remain in that position by buttoning the strap Z onto the wrist-stud.

The opening at the bottom of the bosom is closed by using a relay-piece, M, overthe end of the bosom and the body A of the shirt; and this piece M, before being sewed on, is to have its edges turned, so as to present a smooth appearance, and, if desired,the usual buttoningtag used at the bottom of the bosom can also H be stitched in place, its end passing beneath the piece M. The practice heretofore has been to form a heavy and unsightly seam at the bottom of the bosom, where it is joined to the body, by reason of the layers of cloth at that point, so that when finished, owing to the full- ---ness-caused by turning the several edges, the

seam cannot be smooth and presentable; but by using an overlay and not turning the'edge of the bosom and body the seam is smooth, and

--when finished has no objectionable appearance.

The manner described of stitchi ng the bosom in place brings the seam and the line of stitches inside and covered by the bosom, and when subjected to the ironing process the line of p stitching is not injured, and at the same time any fullness or wrinkles in the bosom can be smoothed out, as the edge of the bosom is free to be pressed over, and a thick edge is provided at the union of the several parts to give necessary stiffness, and the cost of manufacture is reduced, as no pains need be taken to prevent the stitching from being uneven to a slight extent, as the line of unevenness, if any, will not show.

The facing for the back-opening is made wider at the top than at the bottom, and the yokes are slanted somewhat, so that the opening can be closed with an overlap, which will not overlap the neckband to a greater extent than heretofore, and by making this facing of two pieces, H H, with adjacent ends cut diagonal and sewed on a diagonal line, all the benefits arising from a continuous band are derived,without any of the disadvantages; and this manner of forming the facing makes it stronger against ripping.

The straps Z on the sleeve, when folded down and attached to the wrist-stud, allow the sleeves to be full length; but when these straps are attached to the shoulder-tags the sleeves will be shortened and held in that position without any discomfort to the wearer. The shoulder-pieces or yokes can be run in or stitched with the shirt wrong side out, in the same manner as the neckband and the bosom, bringing the stitching, when the shirt is turned right side out, on the inside and hidden from view.

Instead of withdrawing the body of the shirt through the hole at the bottom of the bosom,

it could be withdrawn at the neck'opening by turning the bosom.

What I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-- 1. The method herein described of stitching a. bosom in a shirt by bringing the edges of the bosom, bosom-back, and re-enforce pieces in line with the edge ofthe body-piece, the body and re-enforce pieces being between the IIO edges of the bosom and bosom-back, and then stitching these parts together and folding the body of the shirt between the bosom and bosom-back and arranging the edges on the other side in line and stitching them togethcr, and then withdrawing the body from between the bosom and bosom-back, whereby the vseams are back of the bosom and the side edges of the bosom are prevented from falling, crinkling, and wrinkling, substantially as described. 2. The method herein described of stitching a bosom in a shirt by bringing the edges of the l bosom, the bosom-back, and reenforce piece in line with the edges of the body-piece, the two latter being laid wrong side out upon the bosom and bosom-back, respectively, and then stitching these edges together and folding the body and re-enforce pieces upon each other right side outermost, substantially as described.

CHARLES J. COYLE. Witnesses:

O. W. Bonn, ALBERT H. ADAMS.

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