US433103A

US433103A - Shirt

Info

Publication number: US433103A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1890-07-29
Anticipated expiration: 1907-07-29

Description

4 S11 ets-Sheet 1. (mmdel') D. R. SILLESKY. e

SHIRT.

No. 433,103. Patented July 29, 1890.

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SHIRT.

N0. 433,103; Patented July 29, 1890.

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SHIRT. No. 433,103. Patented July 29, 1890.

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D. R. SILLESKY.

SHIRT.

Patented July 29, 1890.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

DANIEL R. SILLESKY, OF LOCKPORT, NEIV YORK.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 433,103, dated July 29, 1890.

Application filed February 15, 1890. Serial No. 340,565.

the same.

My invention relates to an improvement in shirts, the object being to provide a durable and nicely-fitting shirt of such construction and arrangement of parts that largesized bosoms may be employed and yet possess all the advantages of small bosomsnamely, to cause them to retain their shape and not wrinkle and break down.

YVith this end in view my invention consists in certain novel features of construction and combinations of parts, as will be hereinafter described, and pointed out in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings,Figure l is a view of a shirt, showing my improvements attached thereto. Fig. 2 is a transverse section. Fig. 3 is a longitudinal section through the shirt-bosom. Fig. 4 is a section through the armhole of the shirt. Fig. 5 is a sectional View of one of the wristbands. Fig. (i is a view of the same opened. Fig. 7 isa section through the collar-band and loop, and Figs. 8 and O are details.

A represents the body of the shirt, which portion is made in the usual manner, and therefore requires no further description.

B is the shirt-bosom, made of linen, pique, or of any of the other materials generally used for the purpose, and preferably in two, three, or four plies, and in the various prevailing styles-as, for example, in the four-ply bosom shown, in which the two upper plies are folded together in the longitudinal center of the bosom to form a double box-plait, and the third and fourth plies arranged to form a plane stiff back for the bosom; or, if desired, the back may be made of one ply instead of two, thereby making a three-ply bosom.

Re-enforce O is secured to the upper portion of the shirt-front by means of one or more rows of stitches around its edges, and this re-enforce maybe made in a single piece; or, in order to save material, it may be made (No model.)

in two pieces, as shown in Fig. l, and be stitched together at the lower end. At this point the re-enforce ext-ends a short distance below the bosom, where it adds strength to the shirt and prevents its breaking and wearing at this point.

As one of the essential features of the invention consists in the peculiar attachment between the re-enforce and body of the shirt and the bosom, a detailed description of this part of the invention will follow. The two inside plies 3 and a of the bosom are made narrower and shorter than the

outside plies

1 and 2, and their sides are fastened between the re-enforce and bodyand their lower edges to the body simply by means of one or more rows of stitches. These seams are then lapped with the two upper pliesland 2 of the bosom and stitched down at the sides to the front re-enforce and body, as shown along the lines a a and b b, the re enforce preferably not extending quite to the lower edge a Z) of the inside ply, the object being to make the bosom thin and flexible at this point, where it is desirable to have it bend or yield in order to make the bosom set smoothly and prevent its pushing up around the wearers neck, thus having the advantage of a short shirt-bosom and at the same time the appearance of a long one. If found desirable, however, the re-enforce may also be extended up to the lower plies 3 and 4, in which case both the body and re-enforce are stitched to the latter. The attachment at the edges has the same effect, making a kind of hinge or flexible joint, which allows the edges to yield and bend freely for some distance, while the body of the bosom, or that portion which shows through the coat and vest, retains its firmness and smoothness. In addition to this advantage, the attachments give increased strength and durability to the shirt.

At the lower end of the bosom a tab E is secured. This tab consists in a single piece made in two or more plies to take the place of the strap and tab in general use, and it is securely fastened at the lower end of the bosom by several rows of stitches. The outer ends of the tab are wrapped around the edge of the outer plies l and 2 of the bosom, and then it is stitched down at the ends and also along the

lines

5, 6, and 7, as shown, one at the extreme lower end of the bosom through thetab, re-enforce, and body of the shirt, and the othertwo along the upper edge of the tab and through the tab, two upper plies of the bosom, and through the re-enforce and body, so that the tab is held firmly in place.

Another feature of novelty consists in the re-enforcements at the shoulder. This connection is accomplished by stitching re-enforce G to sleeve F at e 6, allowing re-enforce G to come within about one and a quarter inch from top of sleeve F; then stitching sleeve and re-enforce to main part of shirt at "about one and one-half inch from top of sleeve, thereby taking in in this seam the upper or detached end of re-enforce; then by turning main part of sleeve back the top part of sleeve will project inside of shirt, which by turning under and stitching down furnishes the balance of re-enforce on inside of shirt, and the other part of re-enforce on the outside of sleeve.

At the outer end of the sleeve the wristbands are secured, and they consist, preferably, of four plies of material. These plies are stitched together on line it h and turned inside out in the usual way, so that the second upper ply H, being out wider to form a re-enforcing band, will in joining wristband to sleeve project out onto sleeve and binding at the usual slit or opening in the sleeve. The shape of this band H may be varied and may be extended or widened either at the middle or at the ends, as shown. The latter, however, is the preferred form. The outer ends of c this band extend over the folded binding I on the edges of the opening in the outer end of the sleeve, and they are sewed securely along the edges, and in this manner the sleeve is rendered less liable to tear at this point and the wristband is prevented from ripping or tearing from the sleeve. The yoke extends down over binding at the opening in the back of the shirt in the same man:

ner, this being done either by means of a continuation of the yoke or by a separate triangular piece L. In either construction the edges are stitched and held over the binding, so that the parts are strengthened and prevented from tearing or ripping out at the seams at points where in most instances the shirt is left weak and unprotected and with out re-enforcement.

Aloop or strap M is secured behind the button-hole on that part of the neckband which laps inside. This consists of one or more plies of material stitched at its upper end between the plies which constitute the neckband, and at the lower end by the line of stitches which hold the triangular piece L to the yoke or body of the shirt.

It is evident that slight changes might be resorted to in the form and arrangement of the several parts described without departing from the spirit and scope of my invention, and hence I do not wish to limit myself to the exact construction herein set forth; but,

Having fully described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. In a shirt, the combination, with the body portion and a re-enforce stitched thereto, of a bosom composed of, two or more plies, the inner ply or plies stitched along the edge to the inner edge of the body and re-enforce, and the outer ply or plies stitched along its edge to the reenforce and body between the inner and outer edges of the re-enforce to form a hinge-joint, substantially as set forth.

2. In a shirt, the combination, with a body and re-enforce, of a bosom the inner ply or plies of which are narrower than the outer ply or plies, thereby making the outer edges of the bosom thinner than the center, so that the bosom is yielding and flexible along the outer edge, producing the effect of a narrow bosom and the appearance of awide one, sub stantially as set forth.

3. The combination, with a body and a bosom secured thereto, of a tab of greater width than the lower end of the bosom and having its edges bent around the edges of the bosom, said tab secured to the lower end of the bosom and to the body of the shirt by one or more rows of stitching, substantially as set forth.

4. The combination, with a shirt body or sleeve and band composed of two or more plies of material, of a re-enforcing band having one edge stitched to the body or sleeve and the other edge passed between the plies of the band from one edge to the other to form one of the inside plies of such band, substantially as set forth.

5. The combination, with a shirt body or sleeve having a binding around the placket and a band secured on the lower end of the sleeve or to the neck of the shirt, of a re-enforcing band having one edge passed between the plies of the band from one edge to the other to form one of the inside plies of the band and the other edge stitched to the sleeve or body, the ends of this re-enforcing band being widened and lapped over the placket binding and stitched along its edges, substantially as set forth.

6. The combination, with a shirt-body having the usual placket at the neck and a binding around the placket, of a neckband and a re-enforcing piece having one edge stitched to the body of the shirt, one edge along the outer edge of the placket binding and one edge passed between the plies of the neckband from one edge to the other of the latter to form one of the inside plies of the neckband, said re-enforced portion of the neckband adapted to receivethe button or buttonhole, substantially as set forth.

7. The combination, with a body and a reenforce cut away beneath the lower end of the outer ply of the bosom, of a bosom composed of'two or more plies of material, the outer ply being broader and longer than the inner ply, the latter being stitched at its outer edge IIO to the inner edges of the body and re-enforoe and at the lower ends to the inner edge of the body, and the outer ply stitched at its outer edges to the re-enforce and body and its lower end to the edge of the cut-away portion of the re-enforoe, substantially as set forth.

In testimony whereof I have signed this specification in the presence of two subscribing' witnesses.

DANIEL R. SILLESKY.

Vitnesses:

JOHN E. POUND, DANIEL MCKIM.