US501336A

US501336A - Pattern for drafting shirt-yokes

Info

Publication number: US501336A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1893-07-11
Anticipated expiration: 1910-07-11

Description

2 Sheets-Sheet 1. 'I'. J. GOODWN. PAVITFIEHV FOR DRAFTING SHIRT YOKBS. N. 501,336. 'Patented July l1, 1893..

(Hc Model.)

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INVEN-T n ATTRNEYa (No 1101131.) l 2 sheets-sheet 2. T.l J.G()'ODVVI1\T.v PATTERN T011 DRATTING SHIRT YOKBS.

110.501,33@ Patented .July 11,1393.

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ATTORNEYS' NITED STATES PATENT Trice.

TERENOE J. GOODVIN, OF SYRACUSE, NEV YORK.

PATTERN FOR DRAFTING SHIRT-YOKES.

SPECIFICATION forming' part of Letters :Patent NO. 501,336, dated July 11, 1893.

Application filed February 13, 1893. Serial No. 462,100. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, TERENCE J. GOODWIN, of Syracuse, in the county of Onondaga, in the State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in Shirt-Patterns, of which the following, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a full, clear, and exact description.

My invention relates to improvements in shirt patterns for drafting the yoke pieces of shirts, and has for its object the production -of a simple, practical, and effective device consisting of adjustable sections or plates, wherebya well fitting yoke piece for a custom made shirt can be quickly and easily drafted and then afterward out by an operator possessing no more knowledge of the art of shirt drafting than that required in measuring the individual to be fitted and adjusting the pattern to expose the number thereon corresponding to the ascertained measurements; and to this end :it consists, essentially,in abase-plate formed with a projecting arm at the central portion of its upper edge, a neck-regulating plate adjustable lengthwise on the basefplate, and formed with a bottom edge and a righthand end edge arranged substantially at right angles with each other, and a shoulder regulatin g plate adjustable lengthwise on the baseplate and formed with a bottom edge and a left-hand end edge extending at substantially right angles with each other.

The invention furthermore consists in a topplate arranged atthe upper edge of the baseplate with one end hinged to the left-hand end of the shoulder regulating plate and the other hinged to the upper end of a bar engaged wit-h an inclined or cam surface ou the neckregulating plate, and in the detail construction and arrangement of the parts, all as hereinafter more particularly described and pointed out in the claims.

In describing this invention, reference is had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, in which like letters and figures indicate corresponding parts in all the views.

Figure l is a face viewof .my improved pattern, which is so arranged in the drawings that its normal bottom and top edges are respectively at the right and left hand. Fig. 2 is a similar face view of my improved pattern sectional views, taken respectively on lines -4-4=, -5-5-, and -6-6-, Fig. 1, and Fig. 7 is an elevation of a slightly modified form of my invention shown by dotted lines as expanded.

Asis well known to those skilled in the art it is extremely dificult even for skilled custom shirtcutters to cut a well fitting yoke piece for a shirt. My present invention is designed toreduce to a minimum the skill required in the formation of such yoke pieces, and consists of an adjustable pattern which can be easily adjusted to the required size of neck and shoulder, and enables the operator to draft the yoke piece by merely marking around the edges of the pattern.

My improved pattern consists of a baseplate -A, a neck-regulating plate w-B- adjustable lengthwisely on the baseplate -A-, anda shoulder regulating-plate O- also adjustable lengthwisely on the plate -A-. The base-plate -A- is formed at its upper edge with a projecting arm -ahaving concave edges CU-C- extending respectively to the right and left hand end edges -a3-a4- of said plate -A-. The bottom edge -a5- of the plate -A- is arranged at substantially a right angle with the end edges -a3--a4, and, as clearly seen at Fig. 3, the right-hand edge aof the projecting arm ais of greater concavity than the opposite edge .-a2- of said arm.

The neck-regulating plate -B- is formed with bottom and right-hand end edges Z9-- barranged at substantially right angles with each other, and is of such width that its top edge -b2- is coincident with the top end of the right-hand edge -a3- of the base-plate -A-. -B- is formed with a lengthwise slot b3- disposed in a plane substantially parallel with that of the bottom edge -bof said plate, and registered with said slot is the shank -e-e of a clamp E- for holding the neck-regulating plate -B-in operative position. One end of the shank -eis, as best seen at Fig. 4, fixed to the base-plate -A-, and its opposite end is screw-threaded and movable thereon is a clamping nut e-, which bears The right-hand portion of the plate against the plate I3- and firmly holds the same in its adjusted position.

The left-hand portion of the plate -B- is formed with a projecting tongue -B-, which normally extends almost to the left-hand end edge -cvof the base-plate -A-, and is provided with a lengthwiseV slot '--blsubstantially parallel with the slot -bspreviously described. A suitable lug is registered with the slot b4- and, as clearly seen at Fig. 6, one end of this lug is rigidly secu red to the base-plate -A-, and the other is formed with a shoulder bearing upon the upper face of the tongue -B-.

The shank -eof the clamp -E- and the lug -fsecured to the base-plate -A- serve to guide the plate -B- in its length- Wise movement upon the plate -A--, and, as clearly seen at Figs. l and 2, the plate -B- is formed with a'shoulder or edge -b5-, which is movable along a scale -1, presently described, as the plate -B- is moved lengthwisely on the base-plate -A-.

The shoulder regulating plate --C- is formed with bottom and left-hand end edges coarranged at substantially a right angle with each other, and, as clearly seen in the drawings, the edge -wc- Ais coincident with the plano of the bottom edges a5-bof the plates -A.B-. The top edge c2- of the shoulder regulating plate -C- is, however, slight-ly inclined upwardly from its lefthand end toward its oppositeextremity.

The plate -C- is formed with an open groove -C- for receiving the tongue -I3-- ot' the neck-regulating plate -B-, and is provided on opposite sides of said groove -C- with slots c3-c4" with which are respectively registered the shank -eof a clamp E- similar in construction to the clamp -E-, previously described, and a pair of lugs falso similar in construction to the lug -fpreviously described. The inner end edge of theplate -'-C- is separatedinto two sections -c-csby the open groove -C-, and the adjacent ends of these sec-Y tions are movable along the opposite longitudinal edges of the tongue -B- of the plate -B, which are formed with lower and upper scales -2-3- presently described.

--D is a plate arranged at the upper edge of the left-hand side of the arm -ctof the plate A- and formed with a concave upper face -d-. The left-hand end of the plate -D- is pivoted or adj ustably secured to the upper portion of the corresponding end of the plate -C by a lug -fsimilar to the lug -f-' previously described, and the opposite end of said plate 4is pivoted by a similar lug --fto a-plate or bar -D- lapping upon the base-plate --A- and the neck-regulating plate -B- and disposed in a plane inclining from the bottom edges of theplates-A-BO. The lug -f,- at the left-hand end ot' the plate -D- is movable in an inclined slot -c7-- formed in the plate -C- in proximity to its upper edge -c2-, and, as the plate -C- is moved outwardly, as shown at Fig. 2, the lower cam shaped side -08- of the slot -c7- engages said lug -f-', and slightly raises the left-hand end of the plate -D-.

As the plate -C- is returned to its normal position the upper cam shaped side -c^- of the slot-c7 engages the lug -fand depresses the left-hand end of the plate -D-. The plate -D- is movable lengthwisely, and is provided with lengthwise slots CV-cl2* in which are registered lugs ff secured to the plate A- and formed of similar construction to the lugs -fpreviously described. At the lower end of the plate -D-- is a similar lug -f-, which is registered with an inclined slot d7- in the plate -A-, and is engagedby a cam face -bformed partly in the'tongue -B- and partly in the adjacent right-hand portion ot' the plate B-.

AThis cam face inclines upwardly from its right-hand end toward its opposite extremity for slightly elevating the `upper end of the plate -IY- as the neck-regulating plate -B- is moved outwardly asl shown at Fig. 2. In order that the. opposite movement of the neck-regulating plate may retract` the plate -D- to its normal position the plate -B- is formed with a cam face w57* opposite to the cam face -b--, which also engages the lug -fin the lower end of the plate -D-. These cam faces -b6-b7- form preferably opposite sides of an inclined slot formed in the plate -B- and provided with a right-hand end edge --JB- disposed in a plane substantially parallel with that ot` the corresponding end edge -b of the plate -B-. This edge -bsis movable over a scale 4* formed u pon the base-plate -A..

The `plate D forms an essential feature of my invention, since the width of the yoke piece pattern, is automatically regulated as the neck-regulating plate is moved outwardly, and the curve ot' the left-hand portion of the upper end of said pattern is automatically varied as the shoulder regulating plate -C- is moved outwardly.

The scale -1- regulates the size of the neck for a. shirt having a closed back, and the scale -4- the size of the neck of a shirt having an open back, and, as preferably constructed, both scales are formedv upon the base-plate, and consist of similar graduations 13312, 14E, dac., to 19 extending from the left-hand ends of said scales toward their opposite ends'.

As previously statedthe edges b5-bs of the plate -B- are movablealong the graduations of the scales -l--and-4,and,since as is well known to one skilled in the art, it requires a little more cloth for a shirt yoke having an open back, the graduations of the scales ml and -4- are so arranged that, when any one of the graduations of the scale Htis exposed at the left-hand sideV of the edge -bsa graduation of highernumberis exposed at the similar side of the edge b5- The scales -2- and -3- are also of similar construction, being preferably composed of IIO graduations along the lower and upper edges of the tongue -B- of the plate -B-, the scale -2- being nnmberedl, 1G, &c., to 2l, and having its right-hand graduation marked and the scale -3- being numbered I4-M dac., to 2l, and having its righthand graduation marked -l4. After the neck regulating plate is adjusted, as previously described, the shoulder regulating plate -C- is similarly adjusted, and, if the shirt is to have a closed back, the scale 2- is used, and, if an open back, the scale 3. At Fig. 2, my pattern is shown as adjusted for a yoke piece for a shirt having a closed back and requiring an eighteen collar, andan eighteen shoulder and consequently the .division 1S- of the scale -lis exposed at the left-hand of the edge -bof the neck regulating plate -B-, and the similar division of the scale -2- is exposed at the right-hand of the edge -cof the shoulder regulating plate -C-. It will be noted, however, that the graduation l6 ot' the scale -4- is exposed at Fig. 2, and that the graduation -17- of the scale -3- is also exposed.

In order to adjust my pattern for the yoke piece of a shirt having an open back and requiring a sixteen neck and a sixteen shoulder it is not necessary to move the plate -B- from its adjusted position at Fig. 2, but the plate -O- must be moved toward the righthand until the edge -cis in alignment with the graduation -16-of the scale -3-, as shown by dotted lines at Fig. 2.

At Fig. 7 I have showna slightly different construction of my pattern,and have by dotted lines illustrated the same as somewhat expanded. The pattern consists of a base-plate --A10, a neck-regulating plate -B10- movable lengthwiselyon the base plate -A10-,

and the shoulder regulating plate O10- also movable lengthwisely on the base-plate A10- In this construction the arm aloof the basep1ate -A10- is formed with an extension a11, and the right-hand end of the upper plate D10- is pivoted at d10- to the extension -ctuof the arm d10-e. The opposite end of said plate -Dwis formed with a lug -f10 movable in an inclined slot cin the plate C10-1 This construction of my invention is otherwise identical with the construction illustrated in the preceding figures, with the exception of minor differences in construction of the lugs and clamps for securing the lengthwisely adjustable plates Bw-Cwto the baseplate -A-.

The operation of my invention will be readily perceived t'rom the foregoing description and upon reference to the drawings, and it will be evident that it substantially obviates the necessity of a custom shirt litter for forming the yoke pieces of shoulders, and greatly reduces the expense inciden-tal tothe manufacture of custom made shirts, and that, if desired, the yoke pieces for. ready made shirts may be similarly drafted by the use of my improved pattern. y

The detail construction and arrangement of this pattern may be somewhat varied from that shown and` described. Hence I do not herein specifically limit myself to its exact detail construction and arrangement.

Having thus fully described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

l. The herein described pattern for the yoke piece of a shirt` the same comprising a baseplate -A- formed with a projecting arm (1- at the central portion of its upper edge, a plate -B- adjustable lengthwise on the base-plate -A- and formed with a bottom edge -band a right-hand end edge -barranged at substantially right angles with each other, and the plate -C- adjustable lengthwise on the base plate -A- and formed with a bottom edge -c-, and a lefthand end edge -cextending at substantially right angles with each other, substan-v tially as and for the purpose set forth.

2. The herein described pattern for the yoke piece of a shirt, the same comprising a baseplate -A-, a plate -B- adjustable lengthwise on the base-plate -A- and formed with a bottom edge -band a right-hand end edge lfarranged at substantially right angles with each other and provided with a tongue -B- extending lengthwise of the plate -B-, a plate -C- adjustable lengthwise on the base-plate -A- and formed with a-bottom edge -ca left-hand end edge -cextending at substantially right angles with each other, and provided with an open yslot -C- extending inwardly from its right-hand end edge for receiving the tongue -B-, substantially as and for the purpose specified. f

3. The herein described pattern for the yoke piece of a shirt, thesame comprising a baseplate -A-, a plate -B- adjustable lengthwise on the base-plate -A- and formed with a bottom edge -band a right-hand end edge barranged at substantially right angles with each other and provided with a tongue B- extending lengthwise of the plate -B- and with an edge -b5-, a plate -C- adjustable lengthwise on the base-plate -A- and formed with a Abottom edge`-c-, a left-hand end edge -cextending at substantially right angles with each other and provided with an open slot -C- extending inwardly from its right hand end edge for receiving the tongue -B- and with a righthand end edge -c6, and scales -land -2-formed 'respectively upon the base-plate -A- and the tongue -B- along the path of movement of the edges -b5-c6, substantially as specified.

4. The herein described pattern for the yoke piece of a shirt, the same comprising a baseplate -A- formed with a lengthwise edge -a-, end edges a3 afdisposed at sub- IOO IIO

stantially right angles with the edge ct5 and provided at its upper edge with an arm cthaving concave sides cd-a2, the side c1/ being of greater concavity than the side ct2 a plate B- adjustable lengthwise on the base-plate A and formed with a bottom edge bsubstantially coincident with said edge ct5 and a right-hand end edge b arranged at substantially right angles with the edge b and the plate Q adj ustable lengthwise on the base-plate A and formed with a bottom edge csubstantially coincident with said edge a5 and a left-hand end edge C extending at substantially right angles with the edge c substantially as described.

5. The herein described pattern for the yoke piece of ashirt, the same comprising the base plate A formed with a lengthwise edge o,5 end edges d-M disposed at substantially right angles with the edge a5 and provided at its upper edge with an arm ahaving concave sides ct a2 the sides a being of greater concavity than the sides M a plate B- adjustable lengthwise on the base-plate -A and formed with a bottom edge bsubstantially coincident with said edge a5 a right-hand end edge b arranged at substantially right angles with the edge Z9 a top edge b2 substantially coincident with the upper end of said right-hand end edge a3- of the plate ct an edge b5 a tongue B' at the left-hand end of the plate B extending lengthwise of said plate, the plate O adjustable lengthwise on the base-plate A- and formed with a bottom edge csubstantially coincident with said edge a5 a lefthand end edge c extending at substantially right angles with the edge cand an edge c said plate Q being formed with an open slot C for receiving the tongue B and scales 1 and 2- formed respectively u pon the baseplate A and the tongue B along the path of movement of the edges b5 c ,substan tially as and for the purpose described.

6. The herein described pattern for the yokepiece of a shirt, the same comprising a baseplate A a plate I3-adjustable lengthwise on the base-plate A- and formed with a bottom edge b and a right-hand end edge b arranged at substantially right angles with each other and provided with edges b5 b8 and with a lengthwise tongue B a plate O adjustablelenghthwise on the base-plate A- and formed with a bottom edge cand a left-hand end edge c extending at substantially right angles with each other and provided with right-hand end edges c5 c and with an open slot C for receiving the tongue B scales 1 and 2- provided respectively upon the plate A and the tongue B in the paths of movement of the edges b5 c6 and scales 3 and -4- provided respectively upon the base-plate A- and the tongue B in the paths of movement of the edges b6 csaid scales being constructed, substantially as described, whereby the edges b5 bs register simultaneously with different graduations upon the scales 1 and 4 and the edges c6 c5 with different grad nations on the scales Q and 3 substantially as and for the purpose specified.

7. The herein described pattern for the yokepiece of a shirt, the same comprising a basepiate A a plate B adj ustable lengthwise on the base-plate A- and formed with a bottom edge band a right-hand end edge b arranged at substantially right angles with each other, and the plate O -adjustable lengthwise on the base-plate A- and formed with a bottom'edge c a left-hand end edge c extending at substantially right angles with each other, a plate -D- having a concave upper edge arranged in front of the upper edge of the plate A and having its right-hand end movably supported on the plate A and its opposite end adjustably connected to the plate O substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

8. The herein described pattern for the yokepiece of a shirt, the same comprising a baseplate A- formed with a projecting arm L at the central portion of its upper edge, a plate B adjustable lengthwise on the base-plate A- and formed with a bottom edge -band a right-hand end edge b arranged at substantially right angles with each other, and the plate C- adjustable lengthwise o'n the base-plate A and formed with a bottom edge c a left-hand end edge c extending at substantially right angles with each other, and having an inclined or cam edge c8 and a plate D havingits right-hand end supported upon the arm en of the base-plate and its left-hand end provided with a lug bearing against the edge cB substantially as and for the purpose specified.

9. The herein described pattern for theyokepiece of a shirt, the same comprising a baseplate A a plate B adjustable lengthwise on the base-plate A and formed with a bottom edge band a right-hand end edge b arranged at substantially right angles with each other and provided with a tongue l` extending lengthwise of the plate B a plate O adjustable lengthwise on the base-plate A and formed with a bottom edge c a left-hand end edge c' extending at substantially right angles with each other and provided with an' open slot C extending inwardly from its` right-hand end edge for receiving the tongue B and with an inclined or cam edge --c7 and a plate D having a concave upper edge arranged in front of the upper edge of the plate A- and having its righthand end movably supported on the plate A- and its opposite end adjustably con- IIO nected to the plate C-, substantially as set forth.

10. The herein described pattern for the yoke-piece of a shirt, the same comprisingr a base-plate -A-, having a bottom edge Aaaa plate -B-- adjustable lengthwise on the base-plate -A- and formed with a bottom edge -band right-hand end edge bharranged at substantially right angles with each other, and the plate -C- adjustable lengthwise on the base plate -A- and formed with a bottom edge -o-, aleft-hand end edge --cextending at substantially right angles with each other, a plate DL- lengthwisely movable upon the plate -A- and arranged upon said plate -A-in a plane inclined from that of the edge -a5 of said plate, and a plate -D- having one end hinged to the top end of the plate -D- and the other adj ustably connected to the plate -C-, substantially as and for the purpose specified. l

11. The herein described pattern for the yoke-piece of a shirt, the same comprising a base-plate,aplate-B-adjustablelengthwise on the plate -A- and formed with a bottom edge -b-, and a right-hand end edge -barranged at substantially right angles with each other and provided with an inclined or cam edge b6, a plate -C adjustable lengthwise on the base-plate-A- and formed with a bottom edge v-c-, and a left-hand end edge -cextending at substantially right angles with each other and provided with an inclined or cam edge 407-, a plate -`-D' adjustable lengthwisely on the plate -A- and provided with alugengagng theinclined or cam face -bof the plate -B-, and a plate -D- having its right-hand end hinged to the upper end of the plate -D- and its opposite end provided with a lug movable along the inclined lor cam edge cof the plate -C-, substantially as and for the purpose described.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto signed my name, in the presence of two attesting witnesses, at Syracuse, in the county of Onondaga, in the State of lNew York, this 27 th day of January, 1893.

TERENCE J. GOODWIN. Witnesses:

CLARK H. NORTON, M. BAXTER.