US692510A - Garment-fitter. - Google Patents

Description

No. 692,510. f Patented Feb. 4, |902.

E. P. FoLLETT. A

GARMENT FITTER.

(Applicatiun led Mar. 20, 1901.'

2 Sheets-Sheet I.

(No Model.)

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No. 692,510. I Patented Feb. 4, |902.

. E. P. FoLLETT. v

GARMENT FITTER.

(Applceion meamar. 2o, 1901.)

2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Mo'deL) INVENTOR ma Noims paens co, Pxo1oL|TNo..wAswmuTou. D, c.

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O F CHICAG O, ILLINOIS.

GARlVlENTnFITTER.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 692,510, dated February 4, 1902.

Application filed March 20, 1901. Serial No. 52,006. (No model.)

To all whom, zit may concern:

Be it known thatI, EDWARD P. FoLLETr, a citizen of the United States, residing at Chicago, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois, have invented a new and useful Device for Laying Out Tailors Patterns, of which the following is a specication.

My invention relates to means for drafting the parts of garments; and it consists in a device adapted to taking measures and locating all the cardinal points necessary in laying out Waistfitting garments without the use of scales on the device or of tape-lines, as in ordinary practice, so that the result is a system of great simplicity which may be easily and quickly understood by any person of ordinary ability, the saine being described hereinafter and illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in Which- Figures l, 2, and 3 are respectively front, back, and left-hand side elevations showing the device as it appears iitted to the body of aperson illustrated in partial outline, the several parts of the device being set in the proper relative position one to the other, so that the indicating-slides may be manipulated to show the place of each of the cardinal points from Which the contour of the parts of a garment is drawn. Fig. eis a plan of the device as it appears separate from the body and in the straightened position for indicating the cardinal points in laying out a pattern for aWaistiitting garment, Whose form is shown by the broken lines, which lines are formed by another instrument, Which is the subject of a separate application for patent.

Similar characters indicate like -parts throughout the several views.

The belt or main body portion of the device comprises, in this instance, three parts, of

which A and B are usually made of thin resilient material and are pivotally connected by means of a clamp-screw at C close to the arm-scye position When the belt is around the body, so that they may be set one to the other at any desired angle and held in the set position. At one end of part B is secured a liexible strap D, in Which is a series of perforations E, adapted to be engaged by a button F at the outer end of partA when the device is secured around the body.

At G and H are clasps, each fitted to slide longitudinally on their respective belt portions A and B, and mounted to slide in these clasps at an angle to the belt portions are vertically-disposed thin strips I and J, and each is provided with a hook K or L at the top end, Fig. 3.

At M, N, O, and P are clasps iitted to slide longitudinally on the belt, and pivotally secured to these clasps on screw-threaded studpins are the ends of four thin flexible arms Q, R, S, and T, which may be set and held at any angle to the parts of the belt by means of thumb-nuts U, mounted on the screw-threaded pivotal pins.

One or more arms in addition to Q, R, S, and T may be mounted on clasps slidingly fitted to the belt, if necessary, in laying out garments having a greater number of cardinal points than the pattern for one indicated by the broken lines in Fig. 4.

At V is a clasp rmly attached to the portion B ot the belt, and in this clasp is mounted to slide at an angle to the belt a short strip W, and at X is a clasp secured to and adapted to slide longitudinally on the belt portion B and is fitted to slidingly hold a short strip Y substantially parallel with strip W.

At Z is a clasp iittedto slide longitudinall5T on the part A of the belt and to slidingly hold a thin strip 5,Which projects downwardly, and at the lower end ot the latter is pivotally secured a crossstrip 6, adjustably held in anyV desired angular position relative to the other parts of the device by means of abind ing-screw 7.

The front and back thin strips I and J are tted, in this instance, with slides 8 and 9, usually of rubber, and on the arms Q, R, S, and T are slides l0, ll, 12, and 13, all of these slides being adapted to be moved longitudinally on the strips or arms to indicate the several cardinal points which serve as guides for laying out the pattern for a Waist-fitting garment. There is a piece 14 fitted to slide on arm Q, which piece is provided with a small hole l5, through which the point of a pencil may be inserted for the purposehereinafter fully explained.

In setting the parts of the device to indicate the cardinal points, the belt is placed around the body and secured by engaging the button F in one of the holes E of strap D,

IOO

the portion E of the belt being close under the arm, and the portion A at an angle to B, so as to be disposed at practically a right angle to the surface of the chest, as indicated in Fig. 3, When the portions A and B of the belt are held in angular position by means of the screw-clamp at the pivotal center C close to the arm-scye position, in which position the vertical piece W is held close up to the fore part of the arm and the clasp X is slid so as to carry the strip Y close up to the rear side of the arm of the person being measured. The clasp G is now slid on the belt to the position in which front strip I is disposed with its left-hand edge practically in the center of width of the waist, and is slid vertically so that the hook K at the top end thereof is engaged with a cord around the neck or with an ordinary pin secured in the clothing of the person being measured. Clasp II at the back may now be slid so as to bring the backu strip with its right-hand edge to the center of width of theback, and then the strip is slid vertically and hooked onto the cord around the neck or to a pin, as before described, for the front strip. Clasp Z is slid to an intermediate position on belt portion A between clasps G and V and clasps M, N, O, and P a)re set approximately in the intermediate positions, respectively, between claspsG and Z, Z and V, V and X, and X and H, as indicated in Fig. 4.

Usually in locating the cardinal points the arm Q is swung around so as to pass over the left shoulder and across the upper end of back strip J. Then indicator-slide 10 is moved along arm Q until the outer end of the slide is even with the right-hand corner of the upper end of strip J, when the arm is clamped in position by means of nutU. Arms R and I are now swung up and around the shoulder to the point thereof, when slides 11 and 13 are moved until their outer ends are even with this point, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3, when they are secured by means of the nuts Lower arm S, which hangs downwardly, is now secured by the nut U in about the position shown in Fig. 4, and the slide 12 is moved so that its lower end is at the desired waist-line at the side, and slides 8 and 9 are moved on front and back strips I and J to the position adapted to indicate the front and back waist-lines.

The lower edge of the strip 6 of the T- shaped device, consisting of the strips 5 and 6, is designed to indicate, as desired, the top termination of the front darts, which are indicated by the broken lines 16 and 17, and which latter aswell as the other darts shown are laid out by a separate device specially designed for the purpose and used in combination with the device hereinbefore described.

In laying out patterns for waist-fitting gar ments the device is removed from the body and placed in the straightened-out condition on a sheet of paper resting upon a fiat surface, when indicating-points are made with a pencil on the paper at the left-hand corner of the top at K of front strip I and at the righthand corner of the top L of back strip J. Also indicating-point marks are made at the outer end of each of the slides 8 and 9 of strips I and J to show Waist-line terminals at the center of front and back lines. Indieating-points are marked on the paper at the outer ends of slides 11, 13, and 12,v respectively, for the point of the shoulder and Waistband line. The back of the neck-point is indicated at the top right-hand corner of the back strip J, and the point indicating the termination of the shoulder-seam at the back of the neck is found by moving the slide 14; on arm Q until it is one-eighth of the neck measure, for a waist garment, from the outer end of slide 10, when a pencil is inserted through hole 15 and a segmental broken line 16 is drawn on the pattermpaper by swinging arm Q laterally, and on this broken line is located the neck-termination point of the shoulder-seam of the front of the garment by measuring from point 1l to the segmental broken line a distance equal to the distance from shoulder-point 13 of the back of the garment to the'point 17, which latter point is found by the separate device hereinbefore mentioned as being the subject of another application for patent.

I claim as my invention- 1. In a device for laying out tailors patterns, a belt adapted to be secured around the body close under the arms, said belt compris- IOC ing in part two main portions pivotally conterns, a belt adapted to be secured around thebody close under the arms, a series of clasps mounted on the belt and movable longitudinally thereon, arms having one end pivotally secured to a number of the clasps and auother series of arms slidingly fitted to the remaining Aclasps intermediate the length of the arms, whereby the end portions thereof project freely above and below the belt, and

indicating-slides on the free end portions thereof, for the purpose stated.

EDWARD 1. FOLLETI. Witnesses:

OSCAR SNELL, JOHN CARTER.

IIC

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