US487237A - Adjustable pattern for drafting garments - Google Patents

Description

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J. O. OUPLER, ADJUSTABLE PATTERN PORDRAPTING GARMENTS. No. 487,237. Patented Nov. 29, 1892;

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J. 0. GUPLER. ADJUSTABLE PATTERN FOR DRAFTING GARMBNTS-V No. 487,237. Patented Nov; 29, 1892.

INITED STATES PATENT Curios.

JACOB C. CUPLER, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

ADJUSTABLE PATTERN FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N 0. 487,237, dated November 29, 1892-. Application filed January 30, 1892- Sen'al No. 419.804. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern..-

Be it known that 1, Moon 0. CUPLER, re siding at Chicago, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Adjustable Patterns for Drafting Garments, which improvement is fully set forth in the following specification and accompanying drawings, in which Figure I is a plan view of my improved ad justable pattern for drafting ladies dresses and similar garments, comprising patterns for the front and rear sections of the body and the intermediate removable section for enlarging the underarm and hip-spring patterns; Fig. II, a detail view of the hooked bolt which governs the adjustment of the dart-patterns; Fig. III, a detail view of the cross-headed bolt which holds the angle-arm for adjusting the upper end of the side-body pattern; Fig. IV, a side view of a seamless bodice formed by my improved pattern, and Fig. V a plan of my improved patte rn for drafting sleeves.

My invention relates to improvements in adjustable patterns for drafting garments; and its object is to provide a simple, novel, and reliable device capable of variable adjustments, whereby each and all the required measurements may be easily and quickly ascertained with positive certainty, thereby insuring an accurate and appropriate fit for every variety of form.

My invention consists of the combination and arrangement of parts substantially as hereinafter more fully disclosed, and pointed out in the claims. p

In the accompanying drawings, Fig. I represents the entire device, showing the front and back in combination. It may be used to advantage in this form, or, if desired, may

' be divided on line as on and the two sections One end of the bar is pivoted on the vertical bar B, which forms the outline of the back section and the other end on the front bar C,

upon whichit is made adjustable in a slot 0. The lower end of the bodice is formed by a graded bar D, which is constructed and pivoted in the same manner as the bar A and is traversed by the lower ends of the vertical ribs a and the supplementary ribs ct". The purpose of the latter will be hereinafter explained. These ribs are made in sections pivoted together on the bar A by the hind ing-screws a. Their lower ends are slotted and made adjustable on the lower bar D. The upper sections belonging to the front pattern embrace the graded and slotted bar (1. It will be observed that the upper ends of the dart-ribs do not cross the bar dinline with each other, aud'are therefore connected by hooked bolts d". (Shown in Fig. II.) By this means I obviate the undue shortening of the darts, which would otherwise ensue when the ribs are drawn together.

The bust-measure is indicated by the bar E, having a right-angled downward extension, which is supplemented by a flexible Wire 6, regulated by the adjustable graduated slide or bar 6. The neck curve bar F, shoulderbar F, and arm-soye bar F" are all extensible and provided with graded scales.

In the pattern for the front of the garment 1 indicates the front section of the bodice, 2 the rear section, and 3 the intermediate darts. The sizes of the darts are regulated by swinging scales G.

' In the pattern for the rear part of the garment 4 indicates the back, 5 the side body, and 6 the under-arm sections. The intervening spaces provide material for the seams,

and in view of the fact that some grades of dress-goods require a wider edge than others these spaces may be widened or contracted, as required for the purpose, without affecting the size of the patterns.

The angle-bar H, which regulates the size of the upper end of the rear side-body pattern and the seam-space between it and the back pattern, is secured to the short horizontal bar by a cross-headed bolt I. (Shown in Fig. III.) The arms of the cross-head engage the slots in said bars, and when the bars are adjusted in the desired position the nut is screwed down and holds them in their proper relation to each other. An adjustable bar J ICO regulates the width of the upper end of the back section 4. The bar L provides a shoulderladjustment and the bar M a back-of-neck sea e.

The two vertical ribs a" are designed to provide for a double hip-spring and extra under-arm pattern which is required in fitting garments to large forms. Being attached to sections of the transverse bars, they may be easily removed with said sections. The free ends of the front and rear sections may then be lapped and attached by binding-screws, thus bringing both patterns into the proper position for effecting ordinary measurements.

The neck F, shoulder F, and arin-scye F are adjustable as shown and provided with graded scales.

The peculiar construction of my device renders'it capable of effecting a ready and ac curate measurement for a seamless bodice. When employed for this purpose, the lower transverse bar D is removed and the verticalribs are shifted from the front and back sections toward a common center on the transverse bar'A. This change in the relative position of the ribs induces a forward and'downward arc movement of the neck and shoulder sections, which combine in forming a'pattern bar for delineating a mutton-leg or high sleeve, and is connected by an adjusting-bar 0, provided with a graded scale to the pattern P for the sleeve-lining. under-arm seam of the sleeve and lining; R, an adjustable bar for regulating the width of sleeve at the shoulder; S, an adjustment for inner seam of sleeve; T, an adjustment for 'the elbow width; U, the adjustment for the wrist, and V for the outside seam of sleeve. All these parts are provided with scales, as shown, and are relatively adjustable.

WVhat I claim as new is- 1. The adjustable pattern for drafting garments, having the front bar 0, the spring 6, having its ends secured to said bar, and the graduated side e, adjustable on said bar and Q'indicates the' engaging said spring, substantially as'and for the purpose set forth.

2. In an djustable pattern for drafting garments, the combination, with a series of connected vertical ribs, the bust-drafting bar E, the graduated slotted bar (1, having a horizontally and vertically adjustable connection at one end with said bust-drafting bar and a vertically adjustable connection with the front vertical bar of the pattern, of the dartdrafting ribs adj ustably connected to said bar d, and the series of swinging scales adapted to co-operate with said dart-drafting ribs, substantially as set forth.

3. In an adjustable pattern fordrafting garments, the combination, with a series of connected vertical ribs, a bust-drafting bar, and a graduated slotted bar suitably connected to the bust-drafting bar and one of said vertical ribs, of the dart-drafting ribs and the hooked boltsrpassed through slots in said graduated slotted bar and dart-drafting ribs, the body of each bolt engaging onedart-drafting rib-and the hook engaging the otherdart-drafting rib of each pair of said ribs, substantially as specified.

4. In an adjustable pattern for drafting garments, the combination, with the series of ver- 3 tical ribs, their means of connection,-and the dart-d rafting ribs ad just-ably con nected to the means of connection between said vertical ribs, of the series of swinging scales adapted to cooperate with said dart-drafting-ribs, substantially as set forth.

5. In an adjustable pattern for draftinggarments, the combination, with the series of connected vertical ribs and the arm-scye bar, of the slotted angle-bar and its cross-headed adjusting-bolt connecting said angle-bar and arm-scye bar and having the arms of its head lying in slots in said arm-'seye bar and said angle-bar, substantially as set forth. I

In testimony that I claim the foregoing I have hereunto set my hand, this 13th day of January, 1892, in the presence of witnesses.

JACOB O. OUPLER.

Witnesses:

R. S. MILLAR, ROBERT KIRK.

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