US158194A - Improvement in devices for laying out vests - Google Patents

Improvement in devices for laying out vests Download PDF

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US158194A
US158194A US158194DA US158194A US 158194 A US158194 A US 158194A US 158194D A US158194D A US 158194DA US 158194 A US158194 A US 158194A
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arm
laying out
vests
devices
improvement
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/01Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth using stencils
    • A41H3/015Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth using stencils of adjustable type

Definitions

  • Figure l shows that portion of the device used in laying out the front of the vest.
  • Fig. 2 shows that portion of the device used in laying out the back of the vest; and
  • Fig. 3 cross-sections of the different kinds of slides.
  • Ihev dotted lines show the vest-pattern as cut in different styles of fashion.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide means for rapidly and accurately laying out vests, and which can be employed by persons but little skilled in tailoring.
  • the device considered generally, is divided into two parts, A and B, shown, respectively, in Figs. 1 and 2, and which are, respectively, used in laying out the front, and in laying out the back, of the garment.
  • Each part is further composed of an upper frame sliding vertically in a lower frame, designated, respectively, a and a and b and b'.
  • the upper frame, a., of the part A. is constructed as follows: 'Iwo arms, O and D, are joined at right angles to each other.
  • the arm O extends in the direction in which the breast measurements are Wmade, and the arm D in the direction of the shoulder, the point of union of the two arms being the intersecting point of the line of breast measurement and a line drawn vertically downward from the shoulder.
  • the frame a is further provided with a third arm, E, arranged between the arm O and the arm D.
  • the exact angle of projection of the arm E can be determined from the drawing. It can be described as being in that line which, if extended inward, would cross the arm C at the point correspondin gto the front of the arm-hole, and which, when extended outwardly,is the direction ofthe shoulder point.
  • the upper and lower frames a and ai are adjusted vertically to each other by means of a projection, m, (arranged at right angles to the arm (3,) sliding in or upon a corresponding part, m', projecting upward from the part a.
  • the two parts can be fastened at any desired point by the screw n.
  • the lower frame, a' is provided with an arm, F, which is arranged in the line of the slope of the waist of the body, from the side of the body to the front, and as shown in Fig. l.
  • the upper frame, b, of the part B of the device is provided with four projecting arms, G, H, I, and J.
  • the lines of their projections are, respectively, as follows:
  • the arm G is in the line of the breast measurement.
  • the arm H is in the line of the center of the back, and is joined, at right angles thereto, to the arm G at the intersecting point of their several lines of projection.
  • the arm I projects in a line extending from this last-mentioned intersecting point K in the direction of the shoulder.
  • the arm J is arranged between the arms I and H, and projects at the angle shown in Fig. 2, in the direction of the shoulder point.
  • the upper and lower frames of the part B slide upon each other in manner similar to that of the frames in part A.
  • the lower frame, b' is provided with an arm, L,pro jectin g in a line parallel to that of the arm Gr. All ofthe arms of both parts of the device are, respectively, provided with slides c d e fg 7L i j l, which are graduated, as shown in the drawing, and which can be moved out on their respective arms to any desired points.
  • rlhe operation of the invention is as follows: Four measures are taken of the person-first, from the center of the back to the front of the arm-hole; second, from the center of the back to the bottom of the vest in front, or to the point designated M in Fig. l, third., around the breast; and fourth, around the waist.
  • the slides in the arms O and G are then set out to the number on the scale corresponding to the breast measurement; and if the person measured is correctly proportioned all the other slides in the upper frames a and b are similarly set outthat is, in such a case, the breast measurement determines the setting of all the slides, saving those in the arms F and L, or those used in laying out the waist measurement. These last-mentioned slides are then adjusted to the waist measurement.
  • the garment is cut out in manner as indicated by the dotted lines, proper pieces at N, O, and P being cut out to give the usual spring to the vest, and the front at Q being varied to suit the fashion. Should the form of the person, however, be irregular, and s omeA from the center of the back over the shoulder to the front of the arm-hole, less, however, and as before, the distance from the end of the slide j to the end of the slide h.
  • the hereinbefore-described device for laying out vests consisting of the part A, having the frames a and af and the arms C, D, E, and F and the slides 0, d, e, and f, and the part B, having the frames b andb, and the arms G, H, I, J, and L, and the slides g, h, c', j, and l,

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
  • Orthopedics, Nursing, And Contraception (AREA)

Description

Z. BAUER.
Devices fur Laying Outl Vests. VNOSSJQAP,A Pvafented Delc.29,`l874.
h//TA/Essgs A/Nwf/vro/L THE rsRAPHic co'flrbimmsn :.1 ma; PLAcgNi 'UNITED STATES PATENT Orr@ ZAOHAEUS BAUER, OF ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI.
IMPROVEMENT IN- DEVICES FOR LAYING OUT VESTS.
Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 15891941, dated December 29, 1874; application filed October 7, 1874.
To all whom t may concern:
Be it known that I, ZAcHAEUs BAUER, aresident of St. Louis, Missouri, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Devices for Laying Out Vests, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description, reference being had -to the drawing hereto annexed, making part of this specification, in which-,-
Figure l shows that portion of the device used in laying out the front of the vest. Fig. 2 shows that portion of the device used in laying out the back of the vest; and Fig. 3, cross-sections of the different kinds of slides.
Ihev dotted lines show the vest-pattern as cut in different styles of fashion.
Like letters indicate like parts.
The object of the present invention is to provide means for rapidly and accurately laying out vests, and which can be employed by persons but little skilled in tailoring.
The device, considered generally, is divided into two parts, A and B, shown, respectively, in Figs. 1 and 2, and which are, respectively, used in laying out the front, and in laying out the back, of the garment. Each part is further composed of an upper frame sliding vertically in a lower frame, designated, respectively, a and a and b and b'. The upper frame, a., of the part A. is constructed as follows: 'Iwo arms, O and D, are joined at right angles to each other. The arm O extends in the direction in which the breast measurements are Wmade, and the arm D in the direction of the shoulder, the point of union of the two arms being the intersecting point of the line of breast measurement and a line drawn vertically downward from the shoulder. The frame a is further provided with a third arm, E, arranged between the arm O and the arm D. The exact angle of projection of the arm E can be determined from the drawing. It can be described as being in that line which, if extended inward, would cross the arm C at the point correspondin gto the front of the arm-hole, and which, when extended outwardly,is the direction ofthe shoulder point. The upper and lower frames a and ai are adjusted vertically to each other by means of a projection, m, (arranged at right angles to the arm (3,) sliding in or upon a corresponding part, m', projecting upward from the part a. The two parts can be fastened at any desired point by the screw n. The lower frame, a', is provided with an arm, F, which is arranged in the line of the slope of the waist of the body, from the side of the body to the front, and as shown in Fig. l. The upper frame, b, of the part B of the device is provided with four projecting arms, G, H, I, and J. The lines of their projections are, respectively, as follows: The arm G is in the line of the breast measurement. The arm H is in the line of the center of the back, and is joined, at right angles thereto, to the arm G at the intersecting point of their several lines of projection. The arm I projects in a line extending from this last-mentioned intersecting point K in the direction of the shoulder. The arm J is arranged between the arms I and H, and projects at the angle shown in Fig. 2, in the direction of the shoulder point. The upper and lower frames of the part B slide upon each other in manner similar to that of the frames in part A. The lower frame, b', is provided with an arm, L,pro jectin g in a line parallel to that of the arm Gr. All ofthe arms of both parts of the device are, respectively, provided with slides c d e fg 7L i j l, which are graduated, as shown in the drawing, and which can be moved out on their respective arms to any desired points.
rlhe operation of the invention is as follows: Four measures are taken of the person-first, from the center of the back to the front of the arm-hole; second, from the center of the back to the bottom of the vest in front, or to the point designated M in Fig. l, third., around the breast; and fourth, around the waist. The slides in the arms O and G are then set out to the number on the scale corresponding to the breast measurement; and if the person measured is correctly proportioned all the other slides in the upper frames a and b are similarly set outthat is, in such a case, the breast measurement determines the setting of all the slides, saving those in the arms F and L, or those used in laying out the waist measurement. These last-mentioned slides are then adjusted to the waist measurement. rIhe upper and lower frames a and a of the part A are then adjusted with relation to each other, and as follows: Open the two frames apart until the end of the slide e of the arm E is distant from the point M the distance indicated by the second measurement above mentioned, or the one from the center of the back to the bottom of the vest in front, less, however, the distance from the end of the slide j of the arm J to the end of the slide h, or the one at the center of the back. For, it will be remembered, the position of the slide c is the position ofthe shoulder point, and the distance from that point to the back of the neck must be deducted. The garment is cut out in manner as indicated by the dotted lines, proper pieces at N, O, and P being cut out to give the usual spring to the vest, and the front at Q being varied to suit the fashion. Should the form of the person, however, be irregular, and s omeA from the center of the back over the shoulder to the front of the arm-hole, less, however, and as before, the distance from the end of the slide j to the end of the slide h.
Having described myinvention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, 1s-
The hereinbefore-described device for laying out vests, consisting of the part A, having the frames a and af and the arms C, D, E, and F and the slides 0, d, e, and f, and the part B, having the frames b andb, and the arms G, H, I, J, and L, and the slides g, h, c', j, and l,
I combined to operate substantially as described and shown.
ZAeHAEUs BAUER;
Witnesses:
HAMILTON MOORE, GHAs. D. MOODY.
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