US435714A - Tailor s measure - Google Patents

Description

2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

(No Model.)

H. P. SGULLY.

TAILORS MEASURE.

Patented Sept (No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

H. P. SGULLY.

TAILORS MEASURE.

No. 435,714. '7 Patented Sept. 2, 1890.

'5 I d I W Z We g i/fgayafi @3311 a-H QLMG'LJ UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HARRY FRANCIS SCULLY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS. I

TAlLORS MEASURE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 435,714, dated September 2, 1890.

Application filed December 31, 1889. Serial No. 335,509. (No model.)

.To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, HARRY FRANCIS SCULLY, of Chicago, Cook county, Illinois, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Tailors Measuring Devices, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters of reference marked thereon I-Ieretofore the greatest difficulty experienced by tailors in measuring, cutting, and fitting garments upon the human form is to locate whatis commonly known as the shoulder-point Without interfering with other essential points in the draft. According as this is definitely obtained (everything else being right) are the fit and set of the garment good or bad.

The object of my invention is to provide a flexible measuringcross which enables me to obtain all the essential points of the body to be clothed quickly and acurately, and to obtain the exact conformation and size of the bust and shoulder, the slope of shoulders and side of neck, the depth of the armpits, as Well as the size and shape of the body below the horizontal plane of the same, on either the male or female form, in order to obtain the proper measurements to draft patterns from which to out said garments, substantially as hereinafter fully described, and as illustrated in the drawings, in which- Figure 1 shows the back view of a man, showing the manner of application of my improved measure when taking back measurements. Fig. 2 is a front View of aman, showing the manner of application of my invention when taking front measurements; and Fig. 3 is a plan view of my improved measuring device.

In the drawings, A represents a central pattern, which, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings, has the right-hand edge a of its vertical arm meet the upper edge I) of its horizontal arm at right angles, so as to provide a square, which, as is well known, is so essentialin taking arm hole measurements. Both of these edges are graduated, and said graduations cross each other, so that the graduations of the vertical edge extend downward in vertical alignment therewith unto a pending strap B, and they extend upward from said edge unto a vertical strap 0. The graduation of said horizontal edge extendsin horizontal alignment therewith unto a strap D, extending to the right from said pattern A, and, crossing the vertical graduations, extend unto the horizontal strap E, extending to the left from the pattern. Straps D and E are in alignment one with the other, and straps C and B are in alignment.

The pattern A is bounded by an oblique straight edge f, drawn from a point on the horizontal scale about six or seven inches to the right of the vertical edge of the same and intersecting said vertical scale about three and one-half inches below the angle 00 of the horizontal and vertical edges of the pattern. Saidhorizontally-oblique edge fpasses slightly beyond the opposite edge of strap 0, then pursues an upwardly-oblique course a short distance, (say about two and one-half i11ches,)

so as to provide a neck-gorge g, and then it pursues a straight oblique course upward, striking the vertical scale about ten inches from the angle made by said vertical and horizontal edges of the pattern. This lefthand oblique edge h of pattern A is graduated, and the horizontal oblique edge of said pattern is also graduated. I prefer to commence the graduations on the perpendicular and horizontal edges of pattern A from the angle m (which, as will be seen, is made by the meeting of said edges) and to make the graduations on the straps B and E commence from the same point.

I prefer to make my entire measure of some flexible non elastic material which when placed against the body will conform to its curvature, and so that when one part is being used it will not displace the other parts from their respective horizontal and perpendicular position which the system I prefer to use in conjunction with my invention requires they should be in.

lVhen using my invention I place pattern A on the back, as shown in Fig. 1, with the left-hand oblique edge h parallel and on a line with the center of the back, and then adjust it vertically, so that the neck-gorge g comes far enough below the top of the shirtcollar to allow for the coat-collar stand, and

4. on the drawings. Having established these A on and against the breast near the arm,as

shown in Fig. 2, with strap D drawn under the arm, so that its upper edge b is perfectly horizontal and touches the horizontal plane under the arm which it is desired shall constitute the lowest point of the armpit, and so that the vertical edge a touches the front of the arm and forward part of the shoulder. In this position the tailor secures the measure by catching hook e in .the end of strap E into the clothing of the customer in front and the hook din the end of strap D into the clothing on the back. Securing the measure to a customer in this way, substantially as shown in Fig. 2, causes pattern A to conform to the chest and shoulders. Strap C is then taken between the thumb and fingers and adjusted so as to conform to the shape of the shoulder, and a mark 3 is made on the shoulder Where the right-hand edge 1) of the pattern crosses the line previously defined by edge f of the pattern when the device was applied, as hereinbefore described, to'the back. The distance from the angle 00 to said point 3 determines the height or slope of the shoulder, as shown in Fig. 2. The straightness or crookedness of the shoulder is ascertained by measuring with an ordinary tape-measure the distance from point 3 to point 2 at the side of the neck. The vertical edge of strapO is then moved to point 2, and the distance from angle at thereto gives the length of the shoulder-strap. The distance is then taken on strap D from angle a: to the center of back at point 4, as shown in dotted lines in Fig. l, and then the distance suppression is ascertained by recording the distance from point 5 to point 6 at the center of the'back of waist. The hip andseat measurement is ascertained by recording the distance from point 5, as shown in Fig. 2, to point 7, as shown in Fig.1. The front center of waist is ascertained by recording the distance from point 5 to point 8, as shown in Fig. 2. The length of sleeve required is ascertained by recording the distance from angle a; to the hand, as shown in Fig. 2. Now in the taking of these measurements and others necessary to be taken from the front it will be noticed that they originate from the horizontal and perpendicular lines described by the straps of my measure. In drafting patterns, therefore, the straight lines indicated by the edges to and I) being located on the paper, all the points and measurements are located and can be made without placing the measure on the paper at all, as required by all other measures.

In order to enable me to take the measurements on both sides of a deformed body, I prefer to graduate the edges of the pattern and the strap on both sides alike.

It will be understood that while I consider the graduations on my measuring device of valuable assistance, yet the same would be capable of use without such graduations,although a rule or measure would have to be used in connection with it in such a case.

What Iclaim is 1. A tailors measuring device consisting of a pattern A, having the perpendicular edge a, the horizontal edge b, and the oblique edge f, and having straps D and E, in horizontal alignment with edge I), and having straps O and B, in perpendicular alignment with edge a of said pattern, the whole made integrant and out of suitable flexible non-elastic material, as set forth.

2. A tailors measuring device consisting of a pattern A, having the perpendicular edge a, the horizontal edge b, the oblique edge f, andneck-gorge g, and having integrant straps D and E, in horizontal alignment with edge b, and straps B and O, in vertical alignment with edge a, said pattern and straps being made of suitable flexible non-elastic material and being graduated, as and for the purpose set forth.

HARRY FRANCIS SCULLY. Witnesses:

F. H. GoIN, F. D. THOMASON.

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