US430347A

US430347A - Embroidered flounced fabric

Info

Publication number: US430347A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1890-06-17
Anticipated expiration: 1907-06-17

Description

(No Model.) 8 Sh t L' LOEB Jr. ee s Sheet 1 EMBROIDERED ELOUNOED FABRIC.

Patented June 1'7, 1890.

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(No Model.) L LOEB Jr 8 Sheets-Sheet 2.

l y l EMBROIDERED FLOUNGED FABRIC.

Patented June 17, 1890.

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(N0 Model.) L 3 ShGBtS-Sheet 3.

l l l EMBROIDERED PLOUNED FABRIC.

Patented June 17, 1890.

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NITED STATES ATENT OFFICE.

Louis Lone, JR., oF RoRsoHAoH, SWITZERLAND.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 430,347, dated J une 17, 1890.

Application filed August l, 1889.

To all whom t may concern.'

Be it known that I, LOUIS LOEB, Jr., a subject of the Emperor of Germany, residing at Rorschach, Switzerland, have invented a new and Improved Embroidered Flounced Fabric, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description.

My invention relates to an embroidered flounced fabric intended for use more particularly in garments for ladies or childrens wear, and made as muslins, cambrics,woolens, silks, &c.; and the object of the invention is to provide an improved fabric of this class as a new article of manufacture, having one or more iiounces formed with an embroidered free edge and capable of production in any desired form or pattern without requiring the main piece of material to be made longer or wider than the finished fiounced fabric, while the flounces will be safe against detachment or ripping olf by wear or washing of the fabric.

The invention consists in certain features of novelty in the embroidered flounced fabric, as hereinafter described and claimed.

Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, in which similar letters of reference indicate corresponding` parts in all the figures.

Figure l is a front View of a piece of main fabric with a backing fabric laid behind it, the front or main fabric being embroidered in a manner necessary to produce series of ounces of various forms or patterns after the two materials or fabrics are connected together, preferably by embroiderystitches, and the front material is partly cut away. Fig. 2 is a front View of the two fabrics connected by stitches or lines of embroideryavith the front material partly cut away or removed to allow the flounces to hang free from their main lines of connection. Fig. 3 is a back View of the finished fiounced fabric. Fig. 4 is a cross-section of the main and backing fabrics, taken on the line a; x in Fig. l, or before they are connected. Fig. 5is a cross-section of the finished fiounced fabric taken on the line y y in Fig. 2. Fig. 6 is a front View of an embroidered ounced fabric, in which the lines of embroidery-stitches produced between two opposing lines of iiounces form a pocket between the two materials of the Vfinished fabric .to receive a colored ribbon-forinstance, to display to better advantage the open-work embroidered patterns on the front material forming one side of said pocket; and Fig. 7 is adeta-il sectional View illustrating how the flounce may by the use of two or more backing-pieces be made of two or more thicknesses to give it increased body or stiffness.

My improved embroidered lounced fabric consists of a main fabric A and a backing or 'foundation piece or fabric B, connected thereto in a peculiar manner and preferably by embroidery-stitches, the front material being cut away between certain lines of embroidery connecting the two fabrics to allow the finished embroidered flounce to hang or project, as hereinafter more fully explained.

The nlain fabric A, on which fiounces of straight, angular, round, or other general form may be produced, is or may be left entirely plain where the flounces are not formed, or the main fabric l may be embroidered at a above or below the flounce or series of liounces. The backing pieces or strips B, of which there may be any desired number having any required width, are placed behind the main fabric. Onto the main fabric A are worked oneor more lines of embroidery of any required contour, extent, or direction, and this embroidery makes a finish at the free edges of the llounces of the completed fabric. For instance, the finely-scalloped line of embroidery c afterward forms the lower free edge of the flounce C of the finished fabric, the an- -gularly-disposed lines of embroidery d,worked below the embroidery c, afterward form the marginal free edges of the 'series of angularinclined fiounces D, the finely-scalloped line of embroidery e afterward forms the free edge of the wide straight-face embroidered iiounce E, the circular-scalloped lines of embroidery f afterward form the marginal free edges of the series of circular flounces F, and the wavy lines of embroidery g afterward form the free edges of a series of large scalloped flounces G of the completed fabric.

Vhether the main fabric A be embroiderd at a or be left plain where the flounces are on one fabric and certain lines of embroidery IOO not to be produced on it, those portions of said fabric may be embroidered at places afterward within the marginal edges of theflounces, or between said edges and the lines or places of connection whence the iounce hangs or projects. For instance, a series of dots d are worked next the embroidery d, a complete flower-pattern e is worked next the embroidery c, and a series of dots g are worked next the embroidery g. Embroidery-patterns may also be lworked on the main fabric at the center of flounces, of round or square or oval configuration, as instanced by the flower or leaf pattern f', worked at the center of the circular lines or figures of embroidery f. It will be understood that all the above-named lines of embroidery c, d d', e e,ff, and g g', and also the embroidery a, when desired, are worked on or in the main fabric A before the backing fabric B is connected to it by lines of stitches, and preferably by embroidering the two fabrics A B together. These lines or places of connection of the two fabrics A B vary in configuration as the patterns or general forms of the flounces or their embroidery require. For instance, the zigzag or sharp wavy embroidery-line of connection C', produced through the two fabrics A B,forms the line of connection of the finished flounce C, the angular lines of embroidery D form the lines of connection of the 'iiounces D, the straight horizontal line of embroidery E forms the main line of connection of the wide straight fiounce E, the rings of embroidery F form the lines of connection of the circular ilounces F, and the concaved scalloped embroidery G forms the line of connection of the series of connected or larger scalloped flounces G. Opposite the line of connection C and next the line of embroidery c the two fabrics A B are connected together, preferably by a line of embroidery Owhich, because of the conformation of the ounces D, also opposes the lines of connection D of said iiounces. About parallel with the line of connection E', above mentioned, the two fabrics are also connected or stitched together, and preferably by a line of embroidery E2, which ranges along near the line of embroidery e and faces the em-v broideryf of the circular patterns, and also faces the line of connection G of the complete fiounces G, and below these fiounces or their edge embroidery g the two fabrics A B are also connected,preferably by a line G2 of embroidery-stitches. An ornamental flowerpattern e2 is also worked or embroidered through the two fabrics between the patterns e and the embroidered line of connection E of the iiounce E, and between the zigzag line of connection Cand the line of embroidery c, and preferably within the angles or convolutions of said connection C small flower or other patterns c2 are worked through both fabrics A B.

Figure l of the drawings shows all the em` broidery patterns or lines produced simultaneously by a machine upon the main fabric A, while Fig. 3, which is a back View, shows all the lines of connection of th'e two fabrics A B, which are made simultaneously in a inachine; hence the production of my embroideredA iionnced fabric requires two adjustments of it in embroidering-machines, and the second operation is that which connects the two materials of which the flouneed fabric is made.

To complete the fabric it is only necessary to cut away-or remove the front material A between the lines of embroidery which form the free edge of the fiounce and the adjacent line of connection of the two fabrics and between said lines of connection where they face each other. This is done preferably by using suitable scissors, which may be introduced between the two fabrics A B at such places a. Fig. 2 represents this fabric partly cut. away at the right-hand side, while the remaining removable part a at the left-hand side is slit off closely to the free embroidered edges of the tucks and the lines of embroidery connecting the two materials. This unremoved portion a of the front main fabric A is represented by horizontal shading lines. Those end portions b2 of the backing B which extend beyond the embroidered lines of connection C C2 of the flounced fabric are preferably cut away at the back of the fabric, and as will be understood from Fig. 3 of the drawings, which shows the free ends b2 of the backing cut away at the right-hand and remaining at theleft-hand side of said figure.

From the aforesaid description it will appear that my improved flounced fabric has a flounce, which is formed of a part of the main fabric, and is provided with an embroidered free edge, and that the flonnce is held to the backing of the finished fabric by embroiderystitches forming their own complete smooth selvage or line of connection, which will not rip or fray out, and that the flounce may be embroidered at its face between its free edge and main line of connection and through one or both pieces A B of material, and that the IOO IIO

backing B is not only the main support to the series of flounces, but it maintains the length-- wise continuity of the whole fabric, which when flounced has the same length the main fabric had before the flounces were formed.

It will be particularly noticed that the flounce or flounces of the finished fabric are formed of parts'of the front fabric occupying their original woven positions, or those facial positions relatively to the remaining or unfiounced part-s of the front fabric which they had when this fabric was first woven or produced. This feature alone makes the flounced fabric as an article of manufacture clearly distinguishable from ordinary fiounced fabrics, as ordinary observers, as well as experts, will see that in my improved flounced fabric the warp and Woof threads of all the flounces have the same direction as the warp and Woof threads of the remaining unflounced portions of the main front fabric, however IIS irregular the marginal design of the fiounces may be, and this clearly identifies the liounces as being formed of parts of the front fabric occupying their original facial woven positions. It will also be seen that all fiounces of like general form in an improved fabric have almost absolute uniformity of design, however irregular marginally this design may be, and the spacing of like flounces is or may be absolutely regular or uniform. These two desirable features it is almost impossible, or, at least, impracticable, with commercial success, to assure in either a hand or machine made flounced fabric having very irregularlyshaped liounces separately formed and afterward attached to a backing or foundation piece; and, finally, my' improved fiounced fabric presents a more symmetrical and smooth and more easily-laundered face than would a fiounced fabric having flounces of like form, as in my fabric, but which have been separately or individually made and afterward attached to a backing or foundation fabric.

I specially mention the connection of the iiounce by embroidering the two pieces of material together at the place from which the flounce hangs or projects, as by this construction I produce a Very ornamental finished fabric at a triI'ling cost in comparison with the expense attending the production of afabric of the same design by applying the flounces as separate pieces to the main fabric. For instance, it would be very difficult and commercially impracticable with profit to form fiounces, like the ones C D F G, by using in. dependent pieces of material eut out to proper shape and turned in at the edges in zigzag, curved, or rounded lines, where they would be stitched to a supporting-fabric, and it would be quiteimpossible to secure regularlyspaced fiounces of precisely the same pattern, which is required to make a beautiful useful fabric of this class. I also specially state that a fiounced fabric in which the flounce is formed of a part of the main fabric and is held to it or to the backing lby a line of embroidery is a much more smoothly-finished fabric than one in which the fiounce is formed of a separate piece stitched to the main fabric, because in my fabric there never is a loose or free edge at the embroidered line of connection of the flounce, which forms its own selvage; hence the fabric presents a perfectly-smooth an d beautiful finish at the place from which the fiounce hangs or projects, and this place or line of connection may have any contour or direction within the capacity of ferred'color, which will display to advantage the fancy open-work-embroidery patterns z', which were first worked onto the front or main fabric A. Between the line of connection H' of the lower tlounce I-I and another lower line of connection J2 of the two fabrics A B are produced reversely-inclined rows of diagonal fiounces J J, which have free edges jof embroidery, and hang or project from embroidered lines of connection J of the two fabrics or materials. The flower-patterns j on the fiounces are first embroidered on the outer main fabric A, as are also the patterns a2 at the upper and lower angles of the flounces, or between them and the lines of connection H J 2 of the two materials. The flower-patterns a3 are embroidered through the two materials A B next the tops or connected edges of the flounces. I specially mention this fiounced fabric made with two opposing fiounces, as H H, and two embroidered lines of connection, as H2 H2, which may be straight or irregular, and which form a pocket to receive a ribbon to display effectively embroidered patterns worked only through the front material forming the outer wall of the pocket.

When the finished flcunces are to have two or more thicknesses of material, two thicknesses, for instance, as 'shown in Fig. 7 of the drawings, I connect an extra backing B directly to the main fabric A by a line of embroidery-stitches la, which forms the free edge of the double-thick flounce, and then I connect the main backing B at the back of the piece B and by two lines of embroiderystitches k k', passed through all the fabrics or materials, and the front materials A B', or all the fabrics except the back piece B, are then cut away at k2, between the first line of embroidery k and the adjacent line of connection ki of all the fabrics.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

l. As an improved article of manufacture, a flounced fabric comprising a main face or front fabric and a connected backing fabric and having one or more flounces formed of parts of the front fabric occupying facially their original woven positions relatively to the remaining portions'of said front fabric, substantially as herein set forth.

2. As an improved article of manufacture, a fiounced fabric comprising a main face or front fabric and a connected backing fabric and having one or more fiounces formed of parts of the front fabric occupying facially their original woven positions relatively to the remaining portions of said front fabric and provided with an embroidered free edge, substantially as herein set forth.

3. As an improved article of manufacture, a fiounced fabric comprising a main face or front fabric and a connected backing fabric and having one or more fiounces formed of parts of the front fabric occupying facially IOO IIO

ISO

their original Woven positions relatively to the remaining' portions of said front fabric and provided with an embroidered free edge and hanging or projecting from lines of embroidery connecting both fabrics, substantially as herein set forth.

LOUIS LOEB, JR.

Vitiiesses:

HENRY L. GOODWIN, C. SEDGWICK.