JP3440431B2 - Woven cloth and method of forming bags from woven cloth - Google Patents

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a woven fabric, and is suitable for producing a cloth product such as a bag that is substantially seamless.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art In the manufacture of clothing from woven cloth, after weaving, the front body, back body, collar and other parts are cut along a pattern, and the cut parts are joined by sewing to form a garment. It has been used for a long time since ancient times.

In order to make the production of clothes more efficient, the cutting can be automated by computer cutting or the like. That is, there is a database that stores the type according to the size, select the appropriate type according to the measurement result,
It is a mainstream method in the easy order of men's clothing to cut a model on a computer screen with appropriate modifications by a laser cutter.

However, it is considerably difficult to automate the sewing, and it is basically a manual work, which has been a bottleneck in improving the efficiency and reducing the cost. Therefore, there has been a strong demand for non-sewn fabrics in the production of clothing from woven cloth.

[0005]

With regard to the manufacture of clothes without sewing, the weft knitting can change the knitting width freely by transferring stitches, and it has been a common sense since the era of hand knitting. Also for machine knitting, weft knitting machines, in which each needle is individually electronically controlled independently, are being used, and the weft knitting machine is practically used.
It is possible to automate the entire process, including the overhanging of openings such as the collar and torso. For this type of weft knitting machine, see, for example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 3-75656.

However, the weft knitting technique is completely different from the weaving technique, and the weft knitting technique cannot be applied to weaving. The present invention is intended to practically make sewing-free garments using woven cloth.

[0007]

According to the present invention, there is provided a woven fabric for obtaining bags by cutting from a repetitive pattern, wherein the repetitive pattern on the woven fabric has a warp direction and a weft yarn over the width of the woven fabric. The bag has an outline of a bag extending in any direction including a direction other than the direction, and is woven by a jacquard in a multi-layered structure, and at least one first layer of the multi-layered structure is formed on one side surface of the bag, One second layer is formed on the other side surface of the bags, and a repeating pattern is formed which has a connecting portion that non-separably connects the first layer and the second layer along the outline of the bags. Is provided in the length direction and the width direction, and a non-bonding portion is formed between the first layer and the second layer, which are openings when used as bags and the like. .

According to the present invention, in the method for forming bags from a woven cloth, weaving is performed in multiple layers with jacquard, and at least one first layer of the multiple layers is provided on at least one side surface of the bags. The first layer and the second layer are joined along the outline of the bags such that one second layer is on the other side of the bags, and the attachment along the outline of the bags is the width of the woven fabric. To extend in any direction including directions other than the warp and weft directions, and to form a non-bonding portion between the first layer and the second layer, which are openings in bags, By cutting the woven fabric along the outline while leaving the portion, the first layer, which is one side surface of the bags, and the second layer, which is the other side surface of the bags, are connected by the connecting portion, and the opening is Cut bags with no knot between the 1st and 2nd layers Method of forming bags from a fabric, characterized in that out is provided.

To obtain clothes or bags from woven cloth, cutting is performed along the joint. A part of the opening is left, and the woven cloth is cut along the connecting part so that the one side surface and the other side surface are connected at the connecting part along the outline, and the necessary opening part is formed. It is possible to obtain clothes or bags equipped with. The outline is a repeating pattern on the woven cloth. Therefore, the size of the outer shape of the obtained clothes or bags corresponds to the size of the repeating pattern. The size of the repeating pattern corresponds to the number of warp threads (number of stitches) that can be independently moved. Therefore, it is necessary to use jacquard with a large number of stitches in order to increase the outer shape of clothes or bags, and the outer shape of clothing or bags obtained by using a jacquard with a number of stitches that matches the total number of warp threads The size can be obtained over the entire weaving width to obtain the maximum outer shape. In addition, by using jacquard, it is possible to independently control the opening of each warp included in the pattern, and to attach a desired handle to either side of clothing or bags. You can As for jacquard, it is common knowledge that the design drawing is completely computerized from reading to engraving, and it is needless to say that the use of such jacquard is preferable in the practice of the present invention.

In the present invention, the bags are formed integrally with the woven cloth up to the portion of the cord such as a knot cord or a shoulder cord, and cut out to function as a cord.

In the present invention, the first layer is the front body of the garment and the second layer is the back body of the garment. The front body and the back body are joined along the outline of the garment. By cutting leaving the connecting part so that it does not separate,
Clothing can be obtained without sewing as it is, but the collar, sleeves, and hem, where the human body passes, are not tied from the beginning and are cut along these parts to keep the collar and sleeves. The opening of the portion or the hem may be formed, or the loose binding state may be set and the binding thread may be removed after cutting. Since the cut portion becomes the opening of the collar portion, the sleeve portion, and the hem portion as it is, the woven structure of these portions can be selected so that fraying is unlikely to occur. Further, it is possible to set a pattern arrangement in which the cutting line is inclined as much as possible with respect to both the warp and the weft so that fraying is unlikely to occur. It is also possible to drive the warp or weft with uneven yarns, for example, bulky elastic yarns such as wooly nylon, at a predetermined interval so that fraying is less likely to occur by entanglement with the bulky yarns. Since the cut part forms the collar, sleeves and hem as it is, its appearance will be different from ordinary clothes made by sewing woven fabrics, but this design also feels strange. It can be accepted by the market. In addition, if necessary, it is possible to stitch the opening with a sewing machine,
In this case, the sewing work is not completely non-sewn, but the burden of the sewing work can be significantly reduced as compared with the conventional case.

[0012]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Next, an embodiment of the present invention will be described. In FIG. 1, an arrow F indicates the warp direction. 10 is a schematic representation of a woven structure (pattern) on a woven cloth, and a garment (for example, a jacket) can be obtained by cutting the structure 10 along its outline. In this embodiment, the jacquard has a number of openings that is about half the width of the cloth. That is, as shown in FIG. 2, the jacquard J has 1 to n (for example, 4,300) fishing holes, and the fishing holes 1 to n are connected to the warp threads N ₁ to N _n , respectively. , N _{n + 1} to N _2n . That is, each fishing hole allows two warps to be opened. Therefore, as shown in FIG. 1, two repeat patterns 10 can be arranged in the weft direction (weaving width direction).

FIG. 3 shows another fishing method for arranging two repeats in the weft width direction. In this case, fishing port 1
To n are connected to the warp threads N ₁ to N _n , respectively, and the fishing ports 1 to n are connected to the warp threads N _2n to N _{n + 1, respectively} . Therefore, in this case, a two-repeat pattern is obtained symmetrically with respect to the center of the weaving width.

FIG. 4 shows another fishing system. In this case, the jacquard has a double fishing hole 1 as compared with FIGS.
~ 2n, each fishing port has only one warp, i.e. N
₁ to N _2n warps respectively. Therefore, in this case, a pattern over the entire weaving width can be obtained.

The structure of the woven fabric of the present invention is basically constructed as a double structure. That is, if the surface displayed on the paper surface of FIG. 1 is the front woven surface, another woven surface is provided on the lower side. That is, in FIG. 5, 12 is the upper woven fabric surface, and 14 is the lower woven fabric surface.
The upper woven cloth surface is composed of warp threads 12A and weft threads 12B, and the lower woven cloth surface is composed of warp threads 14A and weft threads 14B. In this embodiment, the double weave is a so-called double weave, and the upper and lower wefts are shared, and the upper weft 12B is transferred to the lower weft 14B at the selvage. However, the present invention can be implemented even when the wefts 12B and 14B are a double weave, which is not a hollow weave separated at the selvages.

In the embodiment described here, in the double weave constituting the double-layered weave, the upper woven fabric surface 12 is formed with the front body 16 of the jacket, and the lower woven fabric surface 14 is formed with the rear body (lower side of the jacket). It is formed so as to face the front body 16 on the woven surface). The upper tissue surface 12 and the lower tissue surface 14 are connected to each other by the outlines of the front body 16 and the back body. Such joints are represented by 18A, 18B and 18C in FIG. That is, 1
8A is a line from the collar to the upper cuffs of clothes, 1
8B is along the line from the armpit to the lower cuff, and 18C is along the line from the armpit to the hem, and these joints are provided symmetrically. The widths of the connecting portions 18A, 18B, 18C are appropriately determined so that the front body and the rear body are not separated from each other when cut out as clothing.

The joints 18A, 18B and 18C have an oxford structure in the example of FIG. The oxford weave is a single weave in terms of the weave weave classification, and is made by aligning a plurality of warps and wefts and weaving it into a plain weave, etc., and is suitable as a knotting portion because of its high flexibility. That is, in the binding portion 18A (18B, 18C), the upper and lower warp threads
12A, 14A and upper and lower wefts 12B, 14B are aligned,
It is woven. Therefore, in these connecting portions 18A, 18B, and 18C that are the edges of the front body 16 and the back body, the upper and lower tissues of the double weave are integrated and are in a joined state.

In FIG. 1, 20 is a line of the collar portion, 22
Indicates the sleeve line and 24 indicates the hem line. Each of these parts should form an opening when separated as clothes. Therefore, these lines 20, 22, 2
In 4, there is basically no need to connect the upper and lower tissues.
However, a joint can be provided along these lines 20, 22, 24, and this joint can serve as a guide line for cutting the jacket from the woven cloth. In addition, the knotting portion has a structure in which the warp yarn and the weft yarn are less entangled with each other, so that the openings of the collar portion, the sleeve portion, and the hem portion can be easily exposed at the time of cutting. In this case, the collar, sleeves, and hem have a structure that can be frayed, but the warp and weft threads are angled to prevent them from fraying, or a few weft yarns (wooley nylon) are placed as weft threads (for example, 8 It can be entangled by tapping into a book holder. Also, if the fraying itself is regarded as a design, it is novel, and it is possible to make it acceptable to consumers.

Although the specific structure of the front body and the back body is not the gist of the invention, in the present invention, the contour line obtained in the state where the front body and the back body are overlapped is the connecting portion = 1
The warp forming one repeat is woven by jacquard, and the open state of each warp that constitutes one repeat can be independently controlled. Therefore,
The front body and the back body can be any organization (= handle). FIG. 7 shows an example of the design of the front body. 18A, 18B, and 18C in the figure are the parts of the outline that are combined with the back body as described with reference to FIG. 1, and as described with reference to FIG. 6, the connective tissue (Bedford weave).
The connection part after cutting is left at least partly so that the front body and the back body are not separated from each other. By connecting 20 collars, 22 cuffs, and 24 hem, it is easier to cut along the collar, sleeve, and hem lines, but these parts should be opened to allow the human body to pass through. It is an appropriate site, and it is preferable that it is in a lightly bonded state so that it can be easily separated even if it is bonded. In addition, the parts inside the lines 18A, 18B, 18C and 20, 22, 24 (front body and back body) are completely separate from the front and back tissues, and are optional as they use jacquard. Can be configured into an organization (design). That is, since the contour line of the body = 1 repeat is woven using jacquard, the opening of the warp inside the body can be controlled independently, and any pattern with a maximum size of 1 repeat can be woven. It is possible. FIG. 7 shows an example of the handle structure of the front body.
Areas A to U surrounded by circles are woven with various structures including a single or multiple structure and using various yarns. Further, it is possible to obtain the shrinking effect depending on the difference in shrinkage degree between the yarns during the dyeing and finishing process.

There is no limitation as to the use of threads in the woven fabric,
Any natural or synthetic fiber can be used.
In addition, as mentioned above, by striking a few weft threads (woolly nylon) as weft threads (for example, every 8 threads), a structure that is resistant to fraying at the openings 20, 22, 24 in the collar, sleeves, and hem. Can also be

To cut clothes from a woven cloth, a line is used.
Cut the upper and lower tissues with manual or mechanical scissors along 18A, 18B, 18C and 20, 22, 24. Line 18A, 18B, 1
8C (= knot) is a part that joins the front body and the back body and must not be separated even after cutting, so cut at the outside of the knot or at least leave the knot. line
For 20,22 and 24, the upper and lower tissues are separated after cutting and the collar,
Opening of sleeves and hem. Therefore, there is a possibility that the yarns forming the warp and the weft will be frayed at these openings, but a shrinkable yarn such as wooly nylon yarn is put in the weft to make it difficult to fray, and a weft or a weft as much as possible at the cutting portion. The pattern 10 can be arranged so as not to be parallel to the warp threads. Further, the texture (A, L, Q in FIG. 7) along the openings of the collar, the sleeves, and the hems 20, 22, and 24 can be made hard to be frayed by using a texture such as a plain weave having a large entanglement.

In FIG. 7, the sleeve opening 22 has a saw-tooth shape. Also, in order to have an appropriate sleeve length according to the size of the wearer, in addition to 22, there are three types of cutting lines such as 22 ', 22 ", long, medium, and short, and in this embodiment, there are three types of cutting lines. You can select the line.

Cutting lines corresponding to sizes can be formed in advance so that the cutting lines can be selected for the collar and the sleeve.

The garment shown in the figure may be used as it is after being cut out or may be turned upside down. When turned inside out, the joints 18A, 18B, 18C are hidden inside. Further, 26 on the connecting portion indicates a cuff pocket and 28 indicates both side pockets, which function as pockets after being turned over.

FIGS. 8 (a) and 8 (b) show an example in which an elastic yarn such as spandex is partially inserted in the weft. The arrow F is the warp direction. The outline (repetition pattern) of clothing is shown in an extremely simplified manner for the sake of simplicity.
The outline may extend in directions other than the warp and weft directions as shown in FIG. In (a), the elastic yarn 30 is inserted as a weft yarn in the hem portion of the clothing as shown by the broken line. Further, the elastic yarn 30 is completely floated at the portion S (does not entangle with the warp yarns), and this floated portion is cut off by shearing at (B). Therefore, the elastic thread portion is shrunk after being cut out on the garment, and the hem of the garment can be partially squeezed.

FIG. 9 shows a case where an elastic thread 30 as a weft thread is inserted into the sleeve portion of a garment. Similarly, F indicates the warp direction. The inserted elastic thread can be cut into the garment and then contracted to provide an elastic squeezing portion for the sleeve portion of the garment.

FIG. 10 shows an example of how to utilize the remaining portion of the woven fabric, which is obtained by cutting clothes along the outline 34. That is,
In this case, a structure serving as a belt or a cord is formed on the outer portion 36 of the outer shape of the garment. This portion may have a bag structure or a simple structure. It is also possible to cut out by knotting along the contour of gloves or socks as a bag weave.

In FIG. 10, reference numeral 38 shows a tag attached to the collar portion of the back body. In normal clothes, this tag is sewn with a separate piece of cloth, but in the present invention, each warp thread can be individually opened with a jacquard. Therefore, it is possible to form the tag 38 integrally with the back body by the woven structure. FIG. 10 shows that the display such as “Made in Japan” and “Cotton 100%” is organized by weaving. Similarly, the trademark and the trade name can be integrally woven into the clothing.

The buttonholes can be formed by a twist structure. That is, in the portion where the buttonhole is formed, as shown in FIG. 11, the plain weave structure is partially warped. Then, the weft yarn is cut along the cutting line X in the gap between the warp yarns that form the string.
Cut the weft along.

FIG. 7 illustrates an embodiment of the present invention in which a body part has a handle. However, it goes without saying that the present invention can be carried out even if the body part is completely plain. In the case of completely solid, dyeing such as printing is performed as necessary. That is, in this case, various variations such as a woven pattern, a plain pattern, and a printed pattern can be obtained with the same type.

Further, in the above-mentioned embodiments, the outline of the garment has been described as having a structure in which the body parts are completely connected to each other, except for the opening portion through which the human body other than the collar, sleeves, and hem is inserted. A structure having a connection structure is also included in the concept of the present invention.

The present invention can be applied to other cloth products regardless of clothes. FIG. 12 shows an example of implementing the present invention on a shoulder bag. In this figure, the woven fabric is a bag weave, and if one side (front side) is shown in FIG. 12, the other side (back side) is formed at the back of the figure. The outline 39 (pattern) of the shoulder bag is shown in the figure, and the portion 40 on the inside of the outline on one side of the woven fabric is one side of the shoulder bag, and the inside of the outline on the other side of the woven fabric (illustration) However, it is formed on the back surface side so as to overlap the portion 40) is the opposite side of the shoulder back. The shoulder bag can be cut out by cutting the woven cloth with scissors along the outline.

A region 42 shown by hatching along the lower half inside the outline 39 is a portion in which the upper and lower surfaces are joined by an Oxford structure or the like as in FIG. 6 in the first embodiment. Thereby, a storage area in the shoulder bag is formed.

The 44 elongated regions on both sides of the upper half of the outline are joined to each other along the closed contour of the upper and lower surfaces of the woven cloth like the shaded region, and this portion 44 is cut out on both sides of the shoulder bag. Functions as a string.

The loop-shaped portion of the upper half of the outline is not connected to the front and back of the woven fabric, and therefore, after cutting along the outline, the front and back of this portion 46 are separated and the shoulder back Achieve the function of the shoulder strap function.

A region 48 of the woven cloth inside the portion 46 forming the shoulder strap of the shoulder bag functions as an inner bag of the shoulder bag. That is, in this region 48, the front and back of the woven fabric are connected to each other along the contour line 50 with diagonal lines. Although this portion 48 is separated from the shoulder strap portion 46, it is integrated with one of the front and back surfaces of the woven fabric (the front surface in the example of FIG. 12) that becomes the bag portion of the shoulder bag along the line 52. It is connected to. Therefore, after cutting along the pattern line 39, the inner bag 48 is integrated with the front side surface 40 in the bag portion. Therefore, by cutting along the lower edge 54 on one surface (front surface in the figure) of the woven cloth in the inner bag portion 48, and by cutting the portion 48 into the bag after cutting to the shoulder bag (see FIG. 13). The side can function as an inner bag having an opening 54 '.

In FIG. 12, the upper end portion of the portion 46 serving as the shoulder strap is filled with a rubber thread as a weft thread as shown by a broken line 56, and this portion 46 is gathered. Further, in the vicinity of the upper edge of the bag portion, rubber threads are woven on the front and back of the fabric as shown by a broken line 58, and this serves to squeeze the inlet portion of the bag. Further, also in the inner bag 48, rubber threads are woven on the front and back sides of the fabric as shown by a broken line 60, which also serves to squeeze the inlet portion of the inner bag.

FIG. 13 is a perspective view schematically showing a shoulder bag completed by cutting out from the woven fabric of FIG.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a diagram showing a pattern structure of a woven fabric of the present invention from the upper surface thereof.

FIG. 2 is a diagram schematically showing a warp thread caught by a jacquard.

[Fig. 3] Fig. 3 is a diagram schematically showing another type of fishing of warp yarns by jacquard.

FIG. 4 is a view schematically showing still another type of fishing of warp yarns by jacquard.

5 is a cross-sectional view taken along line VV of FIG.
1 schematically shows a cross-sectional structure of an ear portion of a woven fabric in a hollow weave structure.

6 is a cross-sectional view taken along line VI-VI of FIG.
The cross-sectional structure of the woven fabric in the connection part of a front body and a back body is shown.

FIG. 7 is a diagram showing an example of a design of an upper layer forming the front body.

FIG. 8 is a diagram schematically showing an embodiment in which an elastic yarn is partially woven as a weft yarn.

FIG. 9 is a diagram schematically showing an embodiment in which an elastic yarn is partially woven as a weft yarn into a sleeve portion.

FIG. 10 is a diagram schematically showing an embodiment in which another part of the garment is formed in the margin portion and the tag is woven integrally.

FIG. 11 is a diagram schematically showing formation of a buttonhole by twisting.

FIG. 12 is a diagram showing a woven fabric according to another embodiment of the present invention in which a shoulder bag can be cut out.

FIG. 13 is a schematic perspective view of a shoulder bag cut out from the woven fabric of FIG.

[Explanation of symbols] 10 ... Clothing outline (repeating pattern) 12 ... Upper woven surface 12A ... Warp 12B ... weft 14 ... Lower woven surface 14A ... Warp 14B ... weft 16 ... Front body 18A, 18B, 18C ... Connection 20 ... Collar 22 ... Sleeve 24 ... Hem 30 ... Elastic thread 32 ... Elastic thread 38 ... Integrated woven tag

Claims (4)

(57) [Claims] 1. A woven fabric for obtaining bags by cutting out from a repeating pattern, wherein the repeating pattern on the woven fabric is in any direction including a direction other than a warp direction and a weft direction over the width of the woven fabric. The outer lines of the extended bags are formed, and are woven with a multiple structure by jacquard, and at least one first layer of the multiple structures is on one side of the bags and at least one second layer is on the other side of the bags. And has a connecting portion that non-separably connects the first layer and the second layer along the outline of the bags, and the repeating pattern formed by the connecting portion is distributed in the length direction and the width direction. In addition, the woven cloth is characterized in that a non-bonding portion is formed between the first layer and the second layer, which are openings when used as bags. 2. The invention according to claim 1, wherein the bags are formed integrally with the woven cloth up to a cord portion such as a knotting strap or a shoulder strap, and cut out to function as a cord. Characteristic woven cloth. 3. The invention according to claim 1, wherein the woven fabric has a portion joined by a joining portion serving as an inner bag, and this portion is integrated with the first layer or the second layer. Woven fabric characterized by that. 4. A method for forming bags from a woven fabric, wherein weaving is performed in a multiple structure using jacquard,
Connection between the first layer and the second layer along the outline of the bags such that at least one first layer of the multi-layered structure is one side surface of the bags and at least one second layer is the other side surface of the bags The binding along the outline of the bags is made to extend in any direction including the direction other than the warp and weft directions over the width of the woven fabric, and the first layer becomes the opening when the bag is formed. And the second layer is configured to form a non-bonded portion, and the woven cloth is cut along the outline while leaving the bonded portion to be the one side surface of the bags and the other side surface of the bags. The second layer, which will be
A method for forming bags from a woven fabric, characterized in that the openings are cut out from the bags having no knot between the first layer and the second layer.