US428099A - Robert pl iptjtchinson - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.)

B. H. HUT'GHINSON.

SHIRT.

Patented May 20, 1890.

SMWMW,

m: NORRIS runs co PHDTWUTHKL, msnmamu, a c.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ROBERT HUTCHINSON, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

SHIRT.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 428,099, dated May 20, 1890.

Application filed fieptemher 2, 1889. Serial No. 322,745. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that 1, ROBERT H. HUTOHIN- SON, a citizen .of the United States, residing in the city, county, and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Shirts, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to clothing, and more particularly to mens shirts, and has for its object to so construct the same that they can be manufactured in large quantities and sold upon the general market, in which persons of a substantial uniformity of size, but differing in special features, can be fitted by the samesized garment, it being made adjustable and also provided with other -particular improvements, as will be hereinafter more particularly described and pointed out.

Referring to the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 represents a front view of a shirt embodying my improvements. Fig. 2 is a vertical sectiontal view of the same. Fig. 3 is a horizontal cross-section through the line :10 0c of Fig. 1. Fig. i is an enlarged detail view of a portion of one of the sleeves. Fig. 5 is a plan view of the pattern from which the sleeve is made, and Fig. 6 is a slight modification.

Arepresents the body of my improved shirt, the neckband of which 13 is preferably open at the back and made so narrow at the front that it is in reality only a binding, as shown at D.

Secured upon the inside of the shirt at the front, with its upper end under the edge of the band, is atab E, which is substantially triangular in shape, andwhich may be turned up so as to project slightly abo've the neckband, as shown in Fig. 1. The tab is provided with a button-hole F, which is just above the top of the band B when the tab is turned up, and which registers with a button-hole G in the shirt-bosom just below the band when the tab is turned down. The object of this arrangement of the tab and button-holes is to permit of different-sized collars being worn upon the same-sized shirt, to adapt it for different-sized necks, and also to permit the same person to wear a larger or smaller collar, as desired, and also to wear the collar high or low at the front. By securing the upper edge of the tab under the edge of the band when the tab is turned down it fits perfectly smooth and even, and when turned up, owing to the very narrow band, the pressure of the collar is upon the tab and the slight welt made by the fold of the tab pushes the band outwardly, so that there is no inconvenience or pain to the wearer whatever.

Another advantage arising from making the neckband so very narrow in front and securing the tab as above described is that the button-hole in the tab is not so far above the button-hole in the bosom when the tab is turned up as to expose the lower button-hole in using the narrow-style ties, nor to make the collar project so high as to be uncomfortable to the wearer, and as the bosom is not as thick as the band with the upper edges of the bosom and lining between its edges the shirt will not be so thick and bungling when the tab is turned down and the collar-button is passed through it and the bosom as would be the case were the tab secured near the upper edge of the band and the lower button-hole made through the lower portion of the band. This construction makes a much more durable shirt, as it is well known that in the ordinary shirt when the stud-hole is made in the band it soon gives out, requiring a renewal of the band, whereas with my improvement the wearer has two button-holes to use, and when used in the lower position it is a reenforcement for the hole in the bosom. If desired, the tab may be used with the ordinary wide band having a stud-hole, in which case the tab will re-enforce it without projecting above the top of the band, and the bosom may be also provided with a hole or not, as desired.

Another novelty and advantage that I i11- troduce into my improved shirt, which is preferably made open at the back, is in making a hole H in the front portion of the shirt for introducing the hand to the person of the wearer. This hole preferably extends from the lower end of the bosom nearly to the lower edge of the skirt, and is preferably formed by making the front of the shirt of two pieces I and J, and then overlapping them from the.

bosom to the tail of the skirt and closing the lower portion of the opening by means of the cross-stitching K, which will prevent the separation of the parts of the skirt, except when needed, and the overlapping of the edges will prevent the spreading apart or gaping of the front portion of the shirt. If, however, it is desired, the shirt may be made open in front and have the opening extend to near the bottom of the skirt, where it is closed by means of the cross-stitching, as shown, when the opening only extends from thebottom of the bosom.

A still further improvement which I introduce into my shirt, but which may also be used as well upon other garments whenever a seam is to be left open for a short distance, as in drawers, or other under-clothing, &c., is the overlapping re-enforcing edges made in tegral with the cloth at such open portions of the seams. In the drawings I have shown such a construction at the ends of the sleeves at L L and atthe sides of the skirt at M M, and it may also be used at the opening at the back of the shirt. These re-enforcing edges or pertions of the garment project from each ed ge N of the goods in the shape of a pointed flap, as shown at() in full lines in Fig. 5, or they may be made longer, as shown in dotted lines at I. \Vhen they are made triangular, as at O, and are brought together by uniting the edges N N in an ordinary seam, each of the flaps overlap the bodyportion of the cloth to which it is secured along its edges by stitching, thus forming what I have called the diamond gusset, owing to the diamond-like shape the rows of stitching assume at that point when both flaps have been secured in place, and also because they take the place of the gusset that has heretofore been used in such places. \Vhen, however, the flaps are made as shown in dotted lines in Fig. 5, they are made a trifle longer than the open portion of the seam, and their edges will be substantially parallel with the edges N N, to which they are connected by the inclined edge Q. \Vhen the edges N N are united by the ordinary scam, the flaps N N will overlap each other the entire length of the open seam and the stitching will appear pointed at one end only, and a row of cross-stitching R will be necessary to unite the flaps at the upper end of the open seam. The same kind of a closure may be made for a slit or opening in the edge of a garment, as where it is not desired to make it at one end of a seam by making the facing for .one side of the cloth along the opening wide enough to form the flap and longer than the slit, so that it may be secured along its edges to the cloth above the slit, and also by the cross-stitch just at the inner end of the slit. The upper end of this facing is preferably turned in to form a point S, as shown in Fig. 6, and the facing for the cloth along the opposite edge of the slit may be wide enough to form a flap or not, as desired, the main object being to re-enforce the cloth at the end of the slit by additional thicknesses of ma terial and the cross-stitching, as well as by the stitching along the edges of the re-enforcing cloth.

As different persons require different-sized necks for the same sized shirt, so different lengths of sleeves are also required by different persons or by the same person for different reasons. I secure this end by providing each of the sleeves with loops T of narrow bands or cords, which are doubled or folded and the free ends are secured upon any portion of the sleeve, while the doubled portion may be looped over a button upon another portion of the sleeve, but at a greater distance from the point where the ends of the loops are secured than the length of the loop, so that when the loop is made to engage with the button the portion of the sleeve between the button and the point of securemeut of the loop will be folded or wrinkled and the sleeve be made correspondingly shorter, as shown in Fig. 1. Instead of thus securing the loop or loops at any point upon the sleeve, I have found it very desirable to secure them along the opening above the wristband, and utilize the cuff-button for engaging with them and shortening the sleeve, or a stud may be placed at the back of the wristband, with which the loop may engage, as shown in one of the sleeves in Fig. 1; and instead of using them only upon one side of the opening they may be secured upon both sides, as shown by dotted lines in Fig. 4, although one set of them for each sleeve will be found very satisfactory.

The way I have found to be the cheapest in making the loops and the most readily applied is to secure the ends of the band or cord forming the loop under the facing U of the cloth along the slit and letting the loop project at about right angles to the edge of the slit. This will cause the loops to project back out of the way when not in use, and by securing them under the edge of the facing will cause them to lie fiat upon the cloth without extra sewing or stitching. By having two sets upon each sleeve, if either one of the loops of one set becomes worn or broken the corresponding loop of the other set can be utilized, or the loops of the two sets can be made to alternate with each other, so that a finer adjustment of the length of the sleeve can be had.

I am aware that sleeves have thus been shortened. by use of a strap provided with button-holes; but the loops made from a narrow tape or cord, as I have shown them, are much cheaper than working button-holes and answer every purpose, as each loop in reality forms a button-hole of itself.

\Vhen constructed as above described, my improved shirt will be found to possess many desirable advantages over those in use heretofore, and especially in shirts that are manufactured in large quantities and sold upon the market, as instead of making so many different sizes to fit persons differing from each other only in one or two points one size need IIO only be made, and then be made to fit the wearer by means of the adjustments for the neck and sleeve. The addition of the other features set forth make the shirt all the more valuable; but of course they are such that they may be incorporated into any other shirt, while the diamond gusset may be readily applied to other articles or garments.

That I claim isv 1. In a shirt having a button-hole in the top of the bosom below the neckband, the combination, with the narrow imperforate neckband, of a tab secured to the top of the bosom with its upper end under the inner edge of the-band and provided with a buttonhole registering with and re-enforcing the hole in the bosom when the tab is down and adapted to be above the top of the band when the tab is raised, substantially as described.

2. In a shirt, the combination, with the sleeves, of a series of adjusting-loops secured along the opening at the wrist and adapted to engage with the cuff-button, substantially as described.

3. In a shirt, the combination, with the sleeves, of a series of loops formed from pieces of narrow tape or cord, the ends of which are secured under the edges of the cloth along the opening above the wristband, substantially as described.

4. In a shirt, the combination, with the sleeves, of the loops secured thereto at the sides of the openings above the wristband,

said loops alternating with each other upon the two sides of the opening, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

ROBERT H. HUTCHINSON.

\Vitnesses:

M. BRUCE, P. F. MAGUIRE.

Images