US3990271A - Knitting method - Google Patents

Knitting method Download PDF

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Publication number
US3990271A
US3990271A US05/646,577 US64657776A US3990271A US 3990271 A US3990271 A US 3990271A US 64657776 A US64657776 A US 64657776A US 3990271 A US3990271 A US 3990271A
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US
United States
Prior art keywords
sleeve
portions
knitting
blank
needles
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
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US05/646,577
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English (en)
Inventor
Keith Jeffcoat
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Akzo Nobel UK PLC
Original Assignee
Courtaulds PLC
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Courtaulds PLC filed Critical Courtaulds PLC
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of US3990271A publication Critical patent/US3990271A/en
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B7/00—Flat-bed knitting machines with independently-movable needles
    • D04B7/24—Flat-bed knitting machines with independently-movable needles for producing patterned fabrics
    • D04B7/26—Flat-bed knitting machines with independently-movable needles for producing patterned fabrics with colour patterns
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D04B1/126—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with colour pattern, e.g. intarsia fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a method of manufacturing a sleeved garment by a knitting process which produces a garment blank subsequently requiring some making-up in order to produce the finished garment.
  • the method has the advantage that sleeve portions, shoulder regions and body portions of the garment are integrally knitted together in producing the blank which thus comprises all the major parts of the garment.
  • the only joins required to complete the garment are a longitudinal join along each sleeve and a side join at each side of the body.
  • Further major advantages of this method are that the blank is produced in a form suitable for striped and other patterning and that it can be carried out on existing flat V-bed knitting machines, preferably, modified by incorporation of a device for pressing down the knitted fabric from above as an alternative to conventional roller take down.
  • the present invention provides an advantageous method of producing such garments, because the floats of yarn can be formed at the side edges of the body portions and the edges of the sleeve portions in the blank which require subsequent seaming and the floats are thus hemmed in or cut away according to the seaming method used. Floats of yarn at the knitted sleeve-body joins are formed inside the garment and are therefore, in general, more acceptable.
  • each sleeve and its shoulder portion are knitted in the same yarn by the same knitting procedure throughout, involving the formation of U-shaped courses of knitting in both.
  • Each body panel and its shoulder portion are also knitted in the same yarn by the same knitting procedure throughout. This uniformity of yarn and knitting procedure in sleeves and body and their respective shoulder regions tends to produce a uniform appearance of these parts in the finished garments. This advantage applies whether or not the garment is striped or patterned.
  • a method according to the invention of knitting a blank for a sleeved garment on a knitting machine having two opposed needle beds containing independently operable needles comprises, in either order, the steps of (a) forming two sleeve portions of the blank, each extending between a cuff and an underarm level of a sleeve of the garment, by knitting in reciprocatory manner on needles of the two opposed needle beds at two locations to form U-shaped courses, the joined ends of the two arms of each U-shaped course of each sleeve portion lying on the needle beds adjacent the joined ends of a corresponding U-shaped course of the other sleeve portion, and (b) forming two body portions of the blank by knitting separately two pieces of fabric one on each of the two needle beds, said method also comprising (c) forming a shoulder region of the blank to constitute a connection between the sleeve portions and the body portions, said shoulder region comprising two sleeve shoulder portions formed by knitting U-shaped courses to constitute an extension of each s
  • the blank is seamed longitudinally along each sleeve portion to join the free ends of the successive U-shaped courses together.
  • the adjacent side edges of the body portion are also seamed together and preferably, in these seaming operations, the extreme edges of the parts concerned are removed.
  • the invention includes a blank made by the method just described and a garment made from such a blank.
  • FIGS. 1 to 5 are general diagrammatic views of a garment blank according to the invention in different stages of manufacture
  • FIGS. 6 to 11 are diagrams illustrating courses knitted on the machine at various stages of manufacture of the blank of FIGS. 1 to 5, and
  • FIG.12 is a general view of a finished blank according to one embodiment of the invention.
  • the knitting method to be described can be carried out on a conventional flat V-bed knitting machine with independently selectable needles and having reciprocating cam boxes with cam tracks for cooperation with the butts of needles slidably mounted in tricks in the needle beds and also having a plurality of yarn carriers to supply yarn to the needles for the production of knitted loops thereon.
  • a machine on which the present method can be carried out is the machine designated "JDR" which is manufactured by the firm Edouard Dubied et Cie S.A. of Neuchatel, Switzerland.
  • the JDR machine is described and illustrated in U.S. Pat. No. 3,304,748.
  • the JDR machine is modified by removal of the standard take-down rollers and incorporation of a presser foot mechanism in their place, for example the presser foot mechanism described in British patent specification No. 1,288,043 (U.S. Pat. No. 3,613,401).
  • the garment blank is knitted in the direction from the sleeve cuffs to the waist of the body and knitting is started using a set course as described in British patent specification No. 1,308,909 and a conventional mock rib construction.
  • the method according to the invention will be described in relation to production of a striped blank.
  • FIG. 1 shows a stage in the knitting of a blank when sleeve portions 20 and 21 have just been started. Mock rib cuff portions 22 and 23 have been knitted followed by stripes 24 and 25.
  • yarn carriers (not shown) of the machine are moved to and fro across and the needle beds 26 and 27 (FIGS. 6 to 11) and the cam boxes (not shown) are controlled to operate needles in such a way that yarn is supplied to and knitted by the needles in the manner shown in FIG. 6.
  • a further course A of the sleeve fabric 20 is knitted on needles of the bed 27 in the direction from right to left; a further course B is knitted on the same needles in the direction from left to right; a course C is next knitted on needles of the bed 26 in the direction from right to left and a final course D to complete the cycle is knitted on the same needles of bed 26 in the direction from left to right. Another cycle is then begun.
  • each of the sleeve portions 20 and 21 thus proceeds by knitting in recoprocatory manner on needles of the two opposed needle beds 26 and 27 to form U-shaped courses, the cycle of cam box traverses described with reference to FIG. 6 producing two U-shaped courses in each sleeve portion.
  • the closed end 28 or 29 of each U-shaped course of the sleeve portion 20 lies on the needle beds adjacent the closed end 28 1 or 29 1 of the other sleeve portion 21.
  • the sleeve portions are shown as being knitted from yarn of three different colours, each colour being supplied from a different yarn carrier and a separate set of yarn carriers being required for each sleeve portion.
  • a yarn carrier When a yarn carrier is not supplying yarn to needles, it is merely parked on its supporting rail in the usual way and as further fabric is knitted beyond the course in which the yarn carrier was parked, a floating length of yarn is formed from the yarn carrier to the point in the sleeve portion at which the yarn concerned was last knitted.
  • a floating length of the yarn is left extending free along the edge of the knitted fabric between the new point of entry of the yarn into the fabric and the point where it was previously knitted.
  • two sleeve shoulder portions 42 and 43 are formed by knitting separate sets of U-shaped courses to constitute extensions of sleeve portions 20 and 21 (FIG. 3).
  • the movements of the yarn carriers during the knitting of the portions 42 and 43 follow the same pattern as illustrated in FIG. 6 and yarn carriers are interchanged at regular intervals as in knitting the main parts of the sleeve portions so that different coloured yarns are used and stripes are formed.
  • needles on both needle beds are made progressively inactive in an inwards direction from the outermost active needles. The needles are made inactive without casting off loops from them, the procedure being illustrated in FIG.
  • the next operation is to join the sleeve portions together by a course of rib knitting 49 also shown in FIG. 9.
  • two body shoulder portions 52 and 53 are formed by knitting two pieces of fabric, one on each bed 26 or 27.
  • needles previously made inactive and still holding loops are brought progressively back into action, the direction of progression being in the opposite direction along the needle beds from that in which the needles were made inactive, that is starting with the innermost needles in each fabric portion and progressing outwardly.
  • the sleeve and body shoulder portions are shaped and joined integrally with one another.
  • the striping is continued during the knitting of the body shoulder portions 52 and 53, that is knitting is carried on with successively different colours of yarn and loose lengths of yarn are thus formed along lines 54 and 55 in the portions 52 and 53 respectively along which yarns are taken out of and brought into knitting action.
  • FIG. 10 illustrates a stage of knitting in which most of the needles previously taken out of action have been reintroduced and FIG. 11 shows the body shoulder portions 52 and 53 completed.
  • the body portion 56 has parallel side edges 58 and 59 and the body portion 57 has parallel side edges 60 and 61 and the loose lengths of yarn formed because of the striping are left along the edges 58 and 61.
  • a mock rib trimming is knitted in a conventional manner and the garment blank may then be pressed off the needles. Alternatively, knitting may be continued with waste yarn and/or a draw thread before another garment blank is started.
  • each sleeve is seamed as are the side joins in the body.
  • the loose lengths of yarn are either trimmed off by the seaming machine or they are folded into the seam and sewn into it.
  • the waist edge also requires finishing.
  • the garment blank need not be striped and it can be knitted in the direction starting at the waist of the body and ending at the cuffs of the sleeve, the garment parts, the shaping and the sleeve-body joins being formed in an exactly similar way to that described above except for obvious changes consequent upon the different direction of knitting.
  • the sleeves are shaped by narrowing instead of widening.
  • the cuffs of the sleeves are knitted in mock rib construction in tubular form, without striping so that no seam need be formed in the cuffs to produce a garment from the blank.
  • a garment blank produced with tubular cuffs 65 is shown in FIG. 12.
  • the above description of the formation of the sleeve portions is given in relation to single system knitting of each sleeve portion.
  • the sleeve portions can, however, be knitted in double system in which a pair of cam systems in the cam box both operate needles of the same bed to knit in one traverse of the cam box across the needle beds.
  • double system knitting two courses A will, for example, be knitted immediately after one another (FIG. 7) followed by two courses B and so on to make up successive pairs of U-shaped courses.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
US05/646,577 1975-01-07 1976-01-05 Knitting method Expired - Lifetime US3990271A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB577/75A GB1528161A (en) 1975-01-07 1975-01-07 Knitting method

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
US3990271A true US3990271A (en) 1976-11-09

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ID=9706828

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US05/646,577 Expired - Lifetime US3990271A (en) 1975-01-07 1976-01-05 Knitting method

Country Status (7)

Country Link
US (1) US3990271A (de)
BE (1) BE837373A (de)
CH (1) CH608251A5 (de)
DE (1) DE2600392C2 (de)
FR (1) FR2297268A1 (de)
GB (1) GB1528161A (de)
IT (1) IT1071251B (de)

Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4087991A (en) * 1975-08-12 1978-05-09 Courtaulds Limited Fashioned garment including body panels containing wales running horizontally and inclined to a finished edge
US5289701A (en) * 1991-08-19 1994-03-01 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Method of determining sleeve and body patterns
US6715324B2 (en) * 2000-02-17 2004-04-06 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Method of knitting stripe pattern of tubular knitted fabric, and the knitted fabric
WO2004039183A1 (fr) * 2002-10-29 2004-05-13 Polikarpov Alexandr Vladimirov Tricot de corps de type maillot
US20080169041A1 (en) * 2003-08-08 2008-07-17 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Method of Knitting Tubular Knitted Fabric Having Stripe Pattern, and Tubular Knitted Fabric Having Stripe Pattern
CN102634917A (zh) * 2012-04-05 2012-08-15 宁波诺布尔制衣实业有限公司 夹色针织衫织片时缝边处拉线的编织方法
US20150143620A1 (en) * 2010-10-01 2015-05-28 Banom, Inc. Cut Resistant Garment

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE4027606A1 (de) * 1990-08-31 1992-03-05 Stoll & Co H Verfahren zur herstellung eines formgerechten flachgestrickes fuer ein mit aermeln versehenes kleidungsstueck
DE19704646B4 (de) * 1997-02-07 2005-02-03 H. Stoll Gmbh & Co. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines mit Ärmeln versehenen Kleidungsstückes auf einer Zweibett-Flachstrickmaschine

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US294637A (en) * 1884-03-04 Otto kbeisel
US412055A (en) * 1889-10-01 williams
US3057178A (en) * 1961-04-03 1962-10-09 Ella J Konklin Sweater construction
FR1494335A (fr) * 1966-07-29 1967-09-08 Alexandre Klein Sa Des Ets Procédé pour la fabrication d'articles tricotés imprimés, ainsi que les articles obtenus par la mise en oeuvre du procédé précédent ou procédé similaire

Family Cites Families (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1238299A (de) * 1967-12-01 1971-07-07

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US294637A (en) * 1884-03-04 Otto kbeisel
US412055A (en) * 1889-10-01 williams
US3057178A (en) * 1961-04-03 1962-10-09 Ella J Konklin Sweater construction
FR1494335A (fr) * 1966-07-29 1967-09-08 Alexandre Klein Sa Des Ets Procédé pour la fabrication d'articles tricotés imprimés, ainsi que les articles obtenus par la mise en oeuvre du procédé précédent ou procédé similaire

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4087991A (en) * 1975-08-12 1978-05-09 Courtaulds Limited Fashioned garment including body panels containing wales running horizontally and inclined to a finished edge
US5289701A (en) * 1991-08-19 1994-03-01 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Method of determining sleeve and body patterns
US6715324B2 (en) * 2000-02-17 2004-04-06 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Method of knitting stripe pattern of tubular knitted fabric, and the knitted fabric
WO2004039183A1 (fr) * 2002-10-29 2004-05-13 Polikarpov Alexandr Vladimirov Tricot de corps de type maillot
US20080169041A1 (en) * 2003-08-08 2008-07-17 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Method of Knitting Tubular Knitted Fabric Having Stripe Pattern, and Tubular Knitted Fabric Having Stripe Pattern
US7430882B2 (en) * 2003-08-08 2008-10-07 Shima Seiki Manufacturing, Ltd. Method of knitting tubular knitted fabric having stripe pattern, and tubular knitted fabric having stripe pattern
US20150143620A1 (en) * 2010-10-01 2015-05-28 Banom, Inc. Cut Resistant Garment
CN102634917A (zh) * 2012-04-05 2012-08-15 宁波诺布尔制衣实业有限公司 夹色针织衫织片时缝边处拉线的编织方法

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR2297268A1 (fr) 1976-08-06
FR2297268B1 (de) 1979-04-20
DE2600392C2 (de) 1985-10-03
DE2600392A1 (de) 1976-07-08
BE837373A (fr) 1976-05-03
IT1071251B (it) 1985-04-02
GB1528161A (en) 1978-10-11
CH608251A5 (de) 1978-12-29

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