US3880174A - Permanent hair shaping composition and method for using the same - Google Patents

Permanent hair shaping composition and method for using the same Download PDF

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Publication number
US3880174A
US3880174A US428406A US42840673A US3880174A US 3880174 A US3880174 A US 3880174A US 428406 A US428406 A US 428406A US 42840673 A US42840673 A US 42840673A US 3880174 A US3880174 A US 3880174A
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United States
Prior art keywords
hair
composition
shaping
process according
ester
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Expired - Lifetime
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US428406A
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English (en)
Inventor
Theodor Wajaroff
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Procter and Gamble Deutschland GmbH
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Wella GmbH
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Filing date
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/66—Enzymes

Definitions

  • a two step permanent hair shaping composition comprising a component A to be used in the first step comprising a salt of a mercapto carboxylic acid and a [30] Formal Apphcauon Pr'omy Data component B to be used in the second step comprising Dec. 23. I972 Germany 2263203 3 n f a mercapto cal-boxylic acid and a hydrophmc mercapto carboxylic acid ester wherein said ester is [52] US. Cl 132/7; 424/72 added just prior to use and a method for using the [51] Int.
  • This invention relates to a two component permanent hair shaping composition and a method for using the same.
  • the shaping of human hair has conventionally been carried out by utilizing as active agent a water soluble salt of a mcrcaptocarbosylic acid. for example an ammonium thioglycolate and the known preparations have been in the form of liquids or thickened preparations i.e.. creams and gels.
  • the shaping treatment has generally been conducted by applying the shaping composition to the hair and permitting it to act on the hair for a sufficient time to produce the shaping. This results in a reductive splitting of the disulfide bridges in the hair keratin to form HS groups.
  • the hair shaping agent is then washed out with water and the hair treated with an oxidation agent containing setting composition. preferably with a solution containing hydrogen peroxide. This treatment causes an oxidative crosslinking of the HS groups to reform the disulfide bridges.
  • the hair is prewet with a portion of the shaping composition and the prewet hair wound up onto permanent wave rollers. After the shaping composition has acted on the hair for about Ill-2U minutes that is. about the time necessary for winding the hair on rollers. the remaining portion ofthe shaping composition is applied. After a period of 5 to minutes. the hair is washed for removal of the shaping composition and the hair then subjected to an oxidative fixing or setting treatment.
  • the shaping composition in thickened form. for instance as a cream. is applied to the hair and evenly distributed throughout the hair for example by combing. After the shaping composition has acted on the hair for about 10-21] minutes. during which the hair is combed more or less continuously. the shaping agent is washed out with water. The hair is then fixed or set in the known manner. i.e.. with a setting composition containing an osidative agent.
  • the above-described hair shaping agents on the basis of mercaptocarboxylie acid salts are only effective in the alkaline pH range and are therefore made up only in the pH ranges of at least 7.0 to 9.6.
  • the keratin softening activity and therewith the shaping capability is relatively weak.
  • there is an increased activity at the upper end of the pH range. there is also an increased stressing. i.e.. wear and tear on the hair and the skin of the scalp.
  • the degree ofthe shaping is dependent on the working time of the shaping agent. there must from time to time during the shaping treatment be interruptions during which a strand of hair is unwound from a roller and examined to determine whether the desired degree of shaping has already been reached.
  • a process comprising in a first step applying to the hair a permanent shaping i.e.. waving or straightening composition which is alkaline in nature and preferably weakly alkaline. comprising a mercaptocarboxylic acid salt and thereafter in a second step applying a shaping composition. preferably a further portion of the shaping composition used in the first step to which there has been added a hydrophilic mercaptocarbosylic acid ester just prior to use.
  • the purpose of the treatment is to permanently wave the hair.
  • the hair is in a first step wet with the first-mentioned shaping composition preferably in the form ofa solution. and then the hair is rolled up on permanent wave rollers.
  • a fixing agent for example with a hydrogen peroxide solution i.e.. the hair is oxidatively set.
  • lfa straightening ofcurly hair is to be carried out in accordance with the invention.
  • the abovedescribed first step shaping agent in thickened form. i.e.. as a cream or gel is applied onto the hair. uniformly distributed and allowed to act on the hair for about 5 to ltl minutes.
  • a pure hydrophilic mercaptocarbosylic acid ester and this mixture applied onto the hair. After a period of about ltl-ZO minutes during which the hair is thoroughly combed to facilitate the straightening effect. the hair is thoroughly washed with water and fixed in the known manner.
  • a shortening ofthe time for shaping the hair may be obtained by application of heat from an external source during the second step as for example by using a drying hood while the shaping agent is acting on the hair.
  • the softening of the hair keratin is achieved and the desired shaping of the hair facilitated.
  • FIG. 2 there is shown the pH pattern during a shaping treatment carried out in accordance with Example 1 of the application as can be seen.
  • the pH value of the shaping liquid is slightly increased on account of the escape of CO: (from 8.2 to 8.5).
  • 15 minutes completion of the winding
  • the addition of the hydrophilic ester takes place.
  • the proccss of the invention makes possible a strong and durable shaping of the hair. which is particularly suitable for hair which is shaped only with difficulty. In spite of this strong shaping activity. and on account of the self-initiated fall off in activity. the condition of the hair and the scalp are considerably improved. In addition the permanent shaping hair process of the invention does not result in a situation where over curling of the hair can take place.
  • a batch of shaping composition (ill containing the mercaptocarbosylic acid salt is made up and if about one-halfofthis is used for the first step and if the remaining half is reserved for use in the second step following addition ofthe hydrophilic ester. ln gen eral it is possible to split the batch of shaping composition so that the amounts used in the first and second steps fall with the ratio of one-third to one-half: twothirds to one-half.
  • mercaptocarboxylic acid salt there can be used the known water-soluble compounds, which as cation contain for example. the ammonium. sodium or potassium ion and as anion. the thioglycolate or thiolactate ion. Most preferred is the ammonium salt of thioglycolic or thiolactic acid.
  • the salt is advantageously used in a starting concentration of about 5 to 10 weight percent (calculated as acid).
  • the shaping composition can also contain the conventional cosmetic additives as for instance. emulsifiers. surface active agents. thickeners. perfume oils. penetration agents and the like.
  • hydrophilic esters of mercaptocarboxylic acids as set out above are used in accordance with the invention in pure form and are added to the shaping composition just before use in the second step of the shaping treatment.
  • Illustrative of the esters which are suitable for use herein are the glycol. glycerine and methoxyethanol ester. Most preferred are such esters of thioglycolic and thiolactic acid.
  • the amount of hydrophilic ester added to shaping composition prior to its use in the second step of the process is generally in the range of 2-5g hydrophilic ester to 40g of shaping composition.
  • the compositions for the hair shaping there may be utilized in the compositions for the hair shaping.
  • the known combination of the enzyme urease and urea and therewith the pH value and also the activity of the mercaptocarboxylic acid salt can be increased.
  • an enzyme i.e.. urease and thereafter prior to the use of the shaping composition in the second step there is added the hydrophilic mercaptocarboxylic acid ester.
  • ester splitting enzymes such as for example. pancreatin. the same facilitating the saponifying-splitting of the hydrophilic esters. This latter type of enzyme can be introduced into the composition initially or just prior to the addition of the hydrophilic ester i.e.. before the use of the composition in the second step.
  • EXAMPLE I Human hair was prewet with 40 g of a permanent wave solution having a pH of 8.2 and the following composition:
  • EXAMPLE 2 Human hair was prewet with 30 g of a permanent wave solution having a pH of 8.8 and the following composition:
  • aqueous ammonium thiolactate solution [509? ammonium bicarbonate ammonium carbonate perfume oil polyethylenegl col-sorbitan-oleie acid ester 44.5 g water
  • EXAMPLE 3 40 g ofa permanent wave solution having a pH of 9.0 and the following composition were used to prewet human hair:
  • aqueous ammonium thiolactate solution (50% ammonium carbonate formamidc perfume oil poleth ⁇ lene glycol-sorbitan-oleic acid ester WillLl'
  • the prewet hair was then wound up on permanent wave rollers.
  • 5.0 g thiolactic acid methoxyethylester were added to the balance (40g) of permanent wave solution and the wound up hair wet with this solution. After a working period of 8-15 minutes. the hair was washed with water and fixed in the conventional manner.
  • EXAMPLE 4 Human hair was prewet with 60 g of a permanent wave solution having a pH of 7.6 and the following composition and then wound up on permanent wave rollers:
  • aqueous ammonium thiogl ⁇ colulc solution 50'; ammonium bicarbonate perfume oil 0.11 g oct ⁇ lphenol 20 mols ethylcneoxide 93.3 g water lzllll g 20.0 g 5.4 g 0.7 g
  • EXAMPLE 5 Human hair was wet with 40 g of a permanent wave solution having a pH of 7.0 and the following composition which had just prior to use had added thereto 1.5 g of a mixture of urease and panereatin l:l
  • EXAMPLE 6 For straightening human hair. 50 g of a cream having a pH of 9.0 and the following composition was applied onto the hair and uniformly distributed thereover:
  • fixing agent there can for instance be used in the foregoing Examples an acid 2 percent aqueous hydrogen peroxide.
  • Process for permanently shaping human hair comprising in a first step applying to the hair a neutral or alkaline shaping composition containing a mercap tocarhoxylic acid salt. permitting said shaping eomposi tion to act on the hair. thereafter in a second step applying a further quantity of the composition used in step 1 to which there has now been added a hydrophilic mercaptocarhoxylic acid ester. permitting said composition to act on the hair. washing said compositions off from the hair and then applying to the hair a setting composition for permanently setting the hair.
  • hydrophilic mercaptocarboxylic acid ester is a glycol. glycerine or methoxyethanol ester.
  • composition is applied in the form of a cream or gel.
  • composition is applied in the form of a liquid solution or emulsion.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
US428406A 1972-12-23 1973-12-26 Permanent hair shaping composition and method for using the same Expired - Lifetime US3880174A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE2263203A DE2263203C3 (de) 1972-12-23 1972-12-23 Verfahren zur Dauerverformung menschlicher Haare

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
US3880174A true US3880174A (en) 1975-04-29

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US428406A Expired - Lifetime US3880174A (en) 1972-12-23 1973-12-26 Permanent hair shaping composition and method for using the same

Country Status (7)

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US (1) US3880174A (ja)
JP (1) JPS5851924B2 (ja)
BE (1) BE808963A (ja)
DE (1) DE2263203C3 (ja)
FR (1) FR2211209B1 (ja)
GB (1) GB1415019A (ja)
SE (1) SE409945B (ja)

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4361157A (en) * 1979-03-05 1982-11-30 James Odie R Method of curling negroid hair without rollers
US4470423A (en) * 1981-05-16 1984-09-11 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Process for permanently shaping hair
US4816246A (en) * 1987-03-25 1989-03-28 Redken Laboratories, Inc. Permanent wave composition
WO2006001536A1 (en) * 2004-06-28 2006-01-05 Showa Denko K.K. Agent for permanent hair processing
US20080131389A1 (en) * 2005-02-07 2008-06-05 Showa Denko K.K. Hair Relaxer

Families Citing this family (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE4119044C1 (ja) * 1991-06-10 1992-06-17 Goldwell Ag, 6100 Darmstadt, De
FR2716803B1 (fr) * 1994-03-07 1996-10-18 Oreal Procédé pour la déformation permanente des matières kératiniques.
FR2725897B1 (fr) * 1994-10-24 1996-12-06 Oreal Produit pour application topique contenant une lipase et un precurseur d'actif
FR2725898B1 (fr) * 1994-10-24 1996-12-13 Oreal Produit pour application topique contenant une lipase et un precurseur d'hydroxyacide
JP4907185B2 (ja) * 2005-02-07 2012-03-28 昭和電工株式会社 シャンプー、リンス、コンディショナー、ヘアトリートメント、ヘアウオーター、ヘアワックス、ヘアムースまたは頭髪用ジェル

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3109777A (en) * 1958-06-26 1963-11-05 Oreal Compositions for treatment of the hair
US3157578A (en) * 1959-07-23 1964-11-17 Oreal Permanent deformation of hair

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3109777A (en) * 1958-06-26 1963-11-05 Oreal Compositions for treatment of the hair
US3157578A (en) * 1959-07-23 1964-11-17 Oreal Permanent deformation of hair

Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4361157A (en) * 1979-03-05 1982-11-30 James Odie R Method of curling negroid hair without rollers
US4470423A (en) * 1981-05-16 1984-09-11 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Process for permanently shaping hair
US4816246A (en) * 1987-03-25 1989-03-28 Redken Laboratories, Inc. Permanent wave composition
WO2006001536A1 (en) * 2004-06-28 2006-01-05 Showa Denko K.K. Agent for permanent hair processing
US20080031839A1 (en) * 2004-06-28 2008-02-07 Showa Denko K.K. Agent For Prermanent Hair Processing
AU2005257521B2 (en) * 2004-06-28 2008-10-23 Showa Denko K.K. Agent for permanent hair processing
US20080131389A1 (en) * 2005-02-07 2008-06-05 Showa Denko K.K. Hair Relaxer

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
BE808963A (fr) 1974-04-16
DE2263203B2 (de) 1980-10-09
JPS50111242A (ja) 1975-09-01
DE2263203A1 (de) 1974-06-27
GB1415019A (en) 1975-11-26
SE409945B (sv) 1979-09-17
DE2263203C3 (de) 1981-11-26
FR2211209B1 (ja) 1977-03-04
JPS5851924B2 (ja) 1983-11-19
FR2211209A1 (ja) 1974-07-19

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