US3157578A

US3157578A - Permanent deformation of hair

Info

Publication number: US3157578A
Application number: US169158A
Authority: US
Inventors: Zviak Charles; Rouet Jean
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 1959-07-23
Filing date: 1960-07-25
Publication date: 1964-11-17
Anticipated expiration: 1981-11-17
Also published as: CH395434A; BE593305A; NL253823A; DE1255863B; FR1241160A; GB890180A

Description

United States Patent 3,157,575 PERMAN E T DEFiBRMATlQN (3F HAR Charles Zvialr, Franconville, Seine-et-Oise, Md Jean Benet, Le Blanc-Mesnil, Seine-et-Qise, France, assignors to Societe anonyme elite: LGrenl, Paris, France No Drawing. Filed July 25, 196i Ser. No. 169,153 Claims priority, application France .lnly 23, 1959 14- Claims. (Cl. 167-871) This invention relates to processes for the permanent deformation of keratinous material and more particularly to the permanent waving of human hair, to aqueous solutions for use in the said processes and to processes for the production of the said solutions.

In the permanent deformation of hair, and more particularly in the reduction of the cystine bridges in keratin, it has previously been known to use reducing solutions of ammonium thioglycollate containing ammonium carbonate. The pH value of such solutions, which may vary between about 7.7 and 9, depends to a large extent upon their content of free ammonia and carbon dioxide.

These reducing solutions, which can be used around pH 8, have definite advantages over the previously employed solutions of ammonium thioglycollate lacking ammonium carbonate which have pH values between about 9.2 and 9.5. One advantage is the lower risk of damage to the hair caused by hydrolysis of the keratin, because the hydrolysis rate is lower at, say, pH 8 than at pH values above 9. Another advantage is that, in the case of sensitive skins, most of the irritations of the scalp and or" the hands of the operator are substantially avoided using solutions of about pH 8. Further, solutions having lower pH values generally have much less objectionable odour than those, for example, having pH values above 9.2.

Nevertheless, reducing solutions of relatively low pH value do have certain disadvantages which render their use inconvenient. For example, their ability to impart a permanent curl to constrained hair is relatively low at about pH 8, so that it is necessary to prolong the duration of application, or to use a heating hood, or to increase the concentration of the reducing agent in the solution. Regardless of the method adoptethe waving operation becomes more difficult.

it has now been found that the aforesaid disadvantages may be obviated by replacing the ammonia, both in its function as a neutralising agent for the acid reducing agent and in the form of ammonium carbonate, by an organic base such as guanidine, monoethylamine, monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diethanolamine or morpholine.

According to a first feature of the present invention, therefore, an aqueous solution for use in efiecting the permanent deformation of hair or other keratinous material comprises a salt of a mercaptocarboxylic acid with an organic base and a carbonate of an organic base, the pH value of the solution being from 7 to 9.

According to a further feature of the present invention a method of imparting a permanent deformation to hair or other keratinous material comprises constraining the material to a desired configuration, treating the constrained material at room temperature with an aqueous solution as just set forth and thereafter setting the configuration of the material by oxidation.

A 3,1575% Patented Nov. 17., 1964 ice As mercaptocarboxylic acids there are preferably em ployed thioglycollic acid or thiolactic acid and these are preferably employed in concentrations from 0.3 to 1.5 mols per litre. The preferred pH value of the solution is from 7.5 to 8.5. The concentration of the carbonate of the organic base may advantageously vary between 0.1 and 1.5 mols per litre.

Various methods for the preparation of the solutions of the present invention may be employed. Thus, for example, it is possible exactly to neutralise a mercaptocarboxylic acid solution by means of an organic base and then to add the required quantity of the carbonate of an organic base. it is also possible to add to a solution of the acid a slight excess of the organic base over that required to neutralise the acid. The excess base may then be converted into its carbonate by introducing into the solution the necessary quantity of carbon dioxide through a distributing head. In either procedure the pH value of the solution can be adjusted to between 7 and 9 by regulating the quantity of carbon dioxide introduced.

The solutions obtained by carrying out the procedures indicated above are applied to hair or other keratinous material at room temperature by the method usually adopted in permanent waving with, for example, am monium thioglycollate, i.e., in a first phase the locks of hair are impregnated with the waving solution, they are wound on curlers and each curler is then saturated with the solution which is allowed to act for 5 to 20 minutes, depending upon the nature of the hair. The hair is then rinsed and thereafter treated with an oxidising solution in accordance with the usual technique. There is thus obtained a springy curl which has good resistance to humidity and shampoos.

The following examples, which describe the preparation of cold waving solutions which may be used in the conventional manner indicated above, will serve to illustrate the invention:

Example I A solution is prepared having the following composition:

G. Thioglycollic acid 8 Monoethanolamine 10 Water to mfie cc.

A current of CO is slowly introduced into this solution through a distributing head until the solution has a pH of 8.2. 7

Example 11 The following solution is prepared:

G. Thioglycollic acid 8 ls lorpholine 16 The following solution is prepared:

G. Thioglycollic acid 8 Monoethanolamine 7.8

Water to make 100 cc.

CO is introduced until the solution has a pH value of 7.6.

'Thioglycollic acid 3 Example IV The following solution is prepared:

Diethanolamine Water to make 100 cc.

CO is introduced until the solution has a pH value of 8.2.

7 Example V The following solution is prepared:

Thioglycollic acid 8 Guanidine carbonate 8.5

Water to make 100 cc.

CO is introduced until the solution has a pH value of 7.3.

Example VII 1 The following solution is prepared:

. G. Thioglycollic acid 8 Ethylamine 5.6 Morpholine 6 Water to make 100 cc. CO is introduced until the solution has a pH value of 8.2.

I Example VII! The following solution is prepared:

6. Thioglycollic acid 8 Monoethanolamine 6.8

Morpholine a 6 Water to make 100 cc.

CO is introduced until the solution has a pH value of 8.2.

7 Example IX The following solution is prepared:

. G Thioglycollic acid a 8 Ethylamine 5.6 Diethanolamine 7.35

Water to make 100 cc.

is introduced until the solution has a pH value of 8.2. What We claim is:

,1. An aqueous solution for use'in efiecting the perina: 'nent deformation of hair and other keratinous material comprising a salt of a mercaptocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of thioglycollic acid and thiolacetic acid with at least one organic baseselected from the group consisting of guanidine, monoethylarnine, monoethanolaminc, fdiethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine and morpholine and a carbonate of said organic base, the pH value of the solution being from 7 to-9L 2. An aqueous solution for use in efiecting the permanent deformation. of hair and other keratinous material comprisin'g'a salt having a concentration of 0.3. to 1.5 g mols per litre of a mercaptocarboxylic acid selected from .the group consisting of thioglycollic acid and thiolacetic acid With at least one organic base selected from the group consisting of guanidine, monoethylamine, monoethanolamine, diethanolarnine, monoisopropanolamine and morpholin'e, and acarbonate of said organic base, the pH value of the solution being from 7 to 9.

3. An aqueous solution for usein'eiiecting the permanent deformation of hair and other keratinous materi 1 4. V comprising a salt of, mercaptocarboxylic acid selected from the group consistingof thioglycollic acid and thiolacetic acid with at least one organic base selected from the group consisting of uanidine, monoethylamine'monoamine and morpholine, and a carbonate of said organic base, the pH value of the solution being from 7.5 to 8. 5. 5. An aqueous solution for effecting the permanent deformation of hair and otherkeratinous material comprising a salt having a concentration of 0.3 to 1.5 mols per litre of a mercaptocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of thioglycollic acid and thiolacetic acid with at least one organic base selected from the group consisting of guanidine, monoethylamine, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, monoisopropan'olamine and rnOrpholine and a carbonate of saidorganic base having a concentration of 0.1 to 1.5 mols per litre, the pH value of the solution being from 7.5 to 8.5.

6. A process for the preparation of an aqueous solu: tion for effecting the permanent deformation of hair and other keratinous material comprising passing carbon dioxideinto an aqueous solution containing a mercaptocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of thioglycollic acid and ,thiolacetic acid and at least one organic base selected from the group consisting of guanidine, monoethylarnine, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine and morpholine, until the solution attains a pH value from 7 to 9. V

7. A process for the preparation of an aqueous solution for etiecting the permanent deformation of hair and other keratinous material comprising passing carbon 'dioxide into an aqueous solution containing a mercaptocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of thioglycollic acid and thiolactic acid and at least one organic base selected from the group consisting of guanidine, monoethylamine, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine and morpholine until the solution attains a pI-l value from7.5 to 8.5.

,8. A method of imparting a permanent deformation to hair and other keratinous material which comprises constraining the material to a desired configuration, treating the constrained material at room temperature with an aqueous solution comprising a salt of a mercaptocarboxylic acid With at least one organic base selected from the group consisting of guanidine, :monoethylamine,

monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, monoisopropanola mine and morpholine, and a carbonate of said organic of a mercaptocarboxyiic acid selected from the group consisting of thioglycollic acid and thiolactic acid With a mixture of guanidine and gnanidine carbonate, the pH value of the solution being from 7 to 9.

10. An aqueous solution for use in eifecting the per:

manent deformation of live human hair comprisin a salt of a mercaptocc boxylic acid selected from, the group consisting'of thi glycollic acid and thiolaotic acid with a mixture or" monoethylamine and monoethylamine carbonate, the pH value of the solutionbeing from 7 to 9.

ilvAn aqueous solution for use'in effecting the permanent dforrna-tion of live human hair, comprisin a; salt of a mercap tocarboxylic acid selectedfrorn the group consisting of thioglycollic acid and thiolactic acid with a mixture of monoethanolamine and monoethanolamine carbonate, the pH value of the solution being from 7 to 9.

12. An aqueous solution for use in efiecting the permanent deformation of live human hair, comprising: a salt of a mercaptocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of thioglycollic acid and thiolactic acid with a mixture of diethanolamine and diethanolamine carbonate, the pH value of the solution being from 7 to 9.

13. An aqueous solution for use in effecting the permanent deformation of live human hair, comprising: a salt of a mercaptocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of thioglycollic acid and thiolactic acid with a mixture of monoisopropanolamine and monoisopropa- 6 nolamine carbonate, the pH value of the solution being from 7 to 9.

14. An aqueous solution for use in effecting the permanent deformation of live human hair, comprising: a salt of a mercaptocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of thioglycollic acid and thiolactic acid with a mixture of morpholine and morpholine carbonate, the pH value of the solution being from 7 to 9.

Schnell Mar. 17, 1953 De Mytt et al May 24, 1955

Claims

1. AN AQUEOUS SOLUTION FOR USE IN EFFECTING THE PERMANENT DEFORMATION OF HAIR AND OTHER KERATINOUS MATERIAL COMPRISING A SALT OF A MERCAPTOCARBOXYLIC ACID SELECTED FROM THE GROUP CONSISTING OF THIOGLYCOLIC ACID AND THIOLACETIC ACID WITH AT LEAST ONE ORGANIC BASE SELECTED FROM THE GROUP CONSISTING OF GUANIDINE, MONOETHYLAMINE, MONOETHANOLAMINE, DIETHANOLAMINE, MONOISOPROPANOLAMINE AND MORPHOLINE AND A CARBONATE OF SAID ORGANIC BASE, THE PH VALUE OF THE SOLUTIN BEING FROM 7 TO 9.