US3788247A - Machine for the stitching of buttonholes on garments - Google Patents

Machine for the stitching of buttonholes on garments Download PDF

Info

Publication number
US3788247A
US3788247A US00316925A US3788247DA US3788247A US 3788247 A US3788247 A US 3788247A US 00316925 A US00316925 A US 00316925A US 3788247D A US3788247D A US 3788247DA US 3788247 A US3788247 A US 3788247A
Authority
US
United States
Prior art keywords
carriage
buttonhole
stitching
workpiece
photoelectric
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
US00316925A
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
P Moll
W Goebbels
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Moll Apparatebau GmbH
Original Assignee
Moll Apparatebau GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from DE19712163728 external-priority patent/DE2163728C3/de
Application filed by Moll Apparatebau GmbH filed Critical Moll Apparatebau GmbH
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of US3788247A publication Critical patent/US3788247A/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

Links

Images

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B33/00—Devices incorporated in sewing machines for supplying or removing the work
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B3/00—Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing
    • D05B3/06—Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing for sewing buttonholes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2207/00—Use of special elements
    • D05D2207/02—Pneumatic or hydraulic devices

Definitions

  • ABSTRACT [30] Foreign Application Priority Data Dec. 22, 1971 Germany P 21 63 728.5
  • This disclosure relates in general to a machine for stitching buttonholes in the fabric of cut-out pieces of [52] US. Cl. ll2/l2l.12 material, particularly outer garments such as jackets, [51 Int. Cl D05b 21/00 coats, trousers, etc.
  • the purpose of the invention is to [58] Field of Search Together ll2/l2l.12, 121.]1, 121.15, automate as much as possible buttonhole stitching 112/ 121.29, 65, 203, 2 while protecting the garment being operated upon from damage which might arise from a defect in the [56] References Cited associated control mechanisms.
  • buttons.,of materials are in an assembled condition, i.e., the top, insertion, stiffening, lining, under-layer and similar materials are first stitched to gether and completed before the process of stitching the buttonholes therethrough is initiated.
  • the buttonhole stitching process therefore must be carried out with the greatest care since the smallest of deviations from any precalculated position on the eventual garment is particularly obvious to a purchaser causing not only a complaint for a missewn buttonhole (or buttonholes) but more seriously an obvious reason for refusing to purchase the particular garment involved.
  • buttonsholes placed at intervals to each other and parallel to each other, or in a line, each with the same distance from and uniformly relatively positioned from an edge of the garment can be stitched with ease and a degree of assurance of acceptability.
  • Such conventional and special buttonhole stitching machines include a conventional needle carrying thread which is guided along and around the side of the buttonhole while the material is maintained firmly and stationarily in place.
  • the stitching head of the buttonhole stitching machine includes a carriage which is automatically controlled and can be moved longitudinally and transversely with respect to the direction of the buttonhole slit.
  • the material which is to be stitched is laid out upon a material carriage by the operator in accordance with predetermined indicia so that the front edge or the edge carrying the buttonhole slits lies parallel with and at a definite distance from the front edge of the material carrier.
  • the buttonhole slit lying at the end of the buttonhole row is placed by the operator at a particular beginning stitching point after which the machine is energized and the first buttonhole will be stitched in the desired manner by preset control means with the stitching head being moved automatically in longitudinal and transverse directions relative to the buttonhole slit.
  • the material carrying carriage may be shifted manually to a next position whereat the next buttonhole to be stitched is again positioned relative to the stitching machine needle and the stitching process is again commenced with once again the stitching taking place at the same distance from the front edge of the material and/or relative to the material carrying carriage.
  • Most common is the stitching of buttonholes in standard shirts in which the buttonhole slits are linearly arranged exact identical distances from each other and from the eges of the garment. In such cases little adjustment is necessary for proceeding from one buttonhole slitto another but mechanical switching devices are known in the art with variable settings in order that the button-- hole stitching machine can be adjusted to correspond the sewing to different buttonhole spacings, buttonhole lengths, etc. according to the stitching requirements desired.
  • buttonshole stitching machines cannot, unfortunately, be employed for stitching buttonholes in outer garment pieces becuase the latter do not have edges which run perfectly straight or rectilinear but instead are curved in one fashion or another. In such cases it is impossible to determine the position of a buttonhole slit by reference to the relative position of the garment or workpiece carrier but instead reference must be made to the actual position of the garment edge adjacent to the buttonhole in question which is to be stitched or sewn.
  • the present invention is directed to eliminating the latter problem by taking advantage of the standard automatically driven material carriage which can be moved in two directions perpendicular to each other.
  • the invention deals with the technical task of adapting the relative position of the stitching needle or stitching head at the commencement of each individual buttonhole stitching operation to the actual and varying position of the material or garment edge rather than to a particular reference point of the material of garment carrying carriage.
  • the border edge of the garment to be sewn is probed by means of a photocelloptic system which includes a triple mirror and a photocell with the photocell providing the impulse for the stoppage of the garment carrying carriage as soon as the edge of the garment thereon has reached the desired stitching position of the stitching head or needle, and, after a short delay, provides an impulse for initiating the actual stitching operation.
  • a photocelloptic system which includes a triple mirror and a photocell with the photocell providing the impulse for the stoppage of the garment carrying carriage as soon as the edge of the garment thereon has reached the desired stitching position of the stitching head or needle, and, after a short delay, provides an impulse for initiating the actual stitching operation.
  • the material carrying carriage can stop in response to the impulse at a variety of relative positions to the stitching head of the stitching machine according to the position of the garment carried by the carriage, the provision of the light sensing mechanism just described cannot alone lead to a satisfactory solution of the technical problem and only the use of a switching technique which makes the impulse of the photocell effective only when the garment border edge is moved toward the desired stitching initiating position from a particular direction (from the front of the stitching head) will achieve the result desired.
  • the particular impulse switch-over or switching technique must be designed in such a way that it is possible to bring the machine into operation even if the garment border which is to be stitched has been brought beyond the desired initial stitching position.
  • the garment carrying carriage is first moved backward a distance corresponding to the photocell eclipsed or passed by its forward motion in order to be thereafter guided properly toward the initial stitching position.
  • the essential part of this invention is the provision of means by which the impulse from a photocell for stitching a particular buttonhole slit and switching on the buttonhole stitching head can only occur when the photocell is first exposed to and then blocked from a light-beam by a corresponding forward movement of the edge of the garment which is to be stitched.
  • a further. advantage of this invention is that should a defect in control occur as, for example, failure of the light source, a smudging or dirtying of the light source optics or the mirror associated therewith, the faulty operation of the switching mechanism is rendered impossible which frees the impulse for starting the stitching head only after the photocell has first been exposed and then eclipsed. Should this type of defect occur, therefore, damage to the garment which is to be stitched will be prevented.
  • FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a novel machine of this invention, and illustrates the relative arrangement of a stitching head and its associated needle, a photoelectricoptic system, and a garment carriage.
  • FIG. 2 is another schematic view of the machine of this invention and illustrates means for shifting the garment carriage with control mechanisms associated therewith.
  • FIG. 3 is a schematic view of a circuit constructed in accordance with the invention illustrating the components at their starting position with a photocell being eclipsed or the beam from a light source broken by the garment associated with the machine of FIGS. 1 and 2.
  • FIG. 1 of the drawings illustrates a buttonhole stitching machine 1 of an overall conventional construction which can be automatically programmed and/or operated in response to a control system which in turn is responsive to the position of an edge or border of a garment 7 which is to be sewn particularly in the area of buttonhole slits 8.
  • the machine 1 includes a conventional presser foot 5 which holds the garment 7 against an apertured stitching plate 3 in order that a conventional stitching needle (not shown) carrying thread (also not shown) reciprocated along the line 11 may form a caterpillar seam around the buttonhole openings 8.
  • the sewing machine 1 is preferably an eye or buttonhole stitching machine and as is conventional the garment carrying carriage 6 associated therewith includes clamps (not shown) for holding the garment 7 thereupon.
  • the edge or border of the garment 7 which includes the buttonhole slits 8 projects beyond the edge of the carriage 6 into the area of the stitching needle and the stitching plate 3 with movement to the carriage 6 being provided in two normal directions, as is best indicated in FIG. 1 by the double headed arrows l3 and 14.
  • the particular mechanical arrangment for automatically moving the carriage 6 in the direction of the double headed arrow 13 after the completion of the stitching of a buttonhole corresponds essentially to arrangements which are conventionally in existence in known buttonhole stitching machines and does not, therefore, form a part of this invention.
  • the movement in the direction of double headed arrow 13 corresponds simply to mechanism for motion which is perfectly linear having no concern for curved edges of the garment 7 and such is readily accomplished by conventional mechanisms as is controls therefor which would change the shifting depending upon the distance between the buttonholes 8.
  • the problem which is solved is that of the particular motion imparted to the carriage 6 in the direction of the double headed arrow 14 which is in direct dependence upon the curvature of the border or edge of the garment 7 which is to be positioned such that the buttonhole slits 8 may be properly sewn.
  • Motion is imparted to the carriage 6 in the direction of the double headed arrow 14 of FIG. 1 by a pair of hydraulic cylinders 17, 18 having respective rods 19, 20 connected to a support 21 which is in turn connected to the carriage 6.
  • a control arm 22 is additionally carried by the support 21.
  • a valve or similar control mechanism S1 is provided for controlling the motion imparted to the piston rod 19 in the direction of motion of the carriage 6 toward the sewing area which is to the right as viewed in FIG.
  • the mechanisms S1, S2 may be, for example, servo valves which control the input and exhaust ports to be cylinders 17, 18, respectively.
  • Control switches E86 and BS7 are shown schematically in association with the control arm 22 carried by the carriage 6 and are suitably mounted upon a frame (not shown) of the machine 1. These switches are normally open at the starting position of a sewing operation, as indicated in FIG. 3, with the switch ES6 being closed by the control arm 22 as the carriage 6 moves away from the starting position toward the stitching area or stitching plate 3 whereas in the reverse direction the switch ES7 will close.
  • a light-beam 15 emanating from a light source 9 is provided as is a photocell whereby in the triple system illustrated in FIGS. 1 and 2 a mirror or reflected surface 16 at the stitching area 3 reflects the light from the source 9 to the photocell 10.
  • the light beam is directed such that it lies in a vertical plane which passes through the axis 1 1 of the stitching needle (not shown) reciprocally mounted in the stitching head 4 which is also a plane perpendicular to the garment or workpiece 7 and parallel to the direction indicated by the double headed arrow 13 of FIGS. 1 and 2.
  • an upper surface of the carriage 6 is flush with an upper surface of a plate 2 of the machine 1 which carries the stitching plate 3.
  • This common plane between the plate 2, the plate 3 and the upper surface of the carriage 6 provides a uniform transition zone between the garment 7 and the machine 1 during movement of the carriage 6 as can be readily appreciated best from FIG. 2.
  • a switch ES] (FIG. 3) whereas a line 12 (FIG. 1) represents a horizontal line through the stitching point parallel to the longitudinal motion of the carriage 6 as represented by the double headed arrow 13.
  • FIG. 3 represents the components thereof at the beginning of the sewing operation at which point the garment or workpiece 7 lies upon the carriage 6 with its border projecting beyond the rightmost edge thereof as viewed in FIG. 2 and adjacent the sewing head 4, the manner best depicted in FIG. 1.
  • the buttonhole stitching operation is initiated by depressing a starting button T1 (FIG. 3) resulting in the energization of a start delay B having contacts bl-b3 which are normally open and b4 which is normally closed. At this point the light-beam is in operation as light is emanating from the source 9 and it is being reflected back to the photocell 10 with the latter being exposed resulting in the movement of the garment carriage 6 toward the stitching head 4 and the stitching area 3.
  • each buttonhole is spaced a predetermined distance from the edge of the garment 7 and the position longitudinally established which is in the direction of the arrow 13 is conventional and hence is of no concern in regard to the present invention.
  • the carriage 6 After the completion of the first stitching operation the carriage 6 will be shifted a predetermined distance in the direction of the double headed arrow 13 in the conventional manner by conventional apparatus heretofore mentioned and if during such movement the light-beam 15 is not broken the conventional switching operation is repeated to achieve stepping motion of the carriage 6 in the direction of the arrow 14 until such time as the beam 15 from the photocell 10 is eclipsed by the garment 7 which results in movement of the carriage 6 in the direction of the arrow 14 until the beam 15 is once again exposed.
  • the latter motion is effected by the rod 20 (FIG.
  • FIG. 3 has been provided with numerals 11-17 from left-to-right which indicate current paths and the same are incorporated in the following description in brackets after corresponding contact designations.
  • the photocell relay H [8] operates to open the contact hl [3] whereas contacts b2 [9] and h3 [12] close.
  • Relay J [12] is now energized through closed contacts gl [2], b1 [2], e2 [10] and b2 [9] and remains in this position due to closed contact i2 [11].
  • the contact i3 [13] opens, resulting in the opening of relay L and the deenergization of the solenoid valve s2 bringing the carriage 6 to a standstill.
  • relay L has deenergized relay I will again be energized via the contacts gl [2], b1[2], a3 [12], b2 [12] b3 [12] and l 1 [12].
  • Relay K now activates the solenoid valve s1 [16] by means of its contact k2 16] resulting in the actuation of the rod 19 with the result that the carriage 6 and the garment 7 thereupon moves to the right as viewed in F IG. 2 with the garment 7 again eclipsing or breaking the beam 15 emitted from the photocell 9. Accordingly relay H [8] thereby opens and contacts k2 [9] and b3 [12] are opened causing the opening of relay K and the solenoid valve s1 [16] associated therewith due to the opening of the contact k2 [l6] and thus the cessation of movement of the carriage 6.
  • the relay C Due to the opening of the relay H the relay C is energized closing contact gl [2], b1 [2], hl [3], i1 [3], (relay I remaining energized), d1 [3],fl [3] andg2 [3]. With the closure of contact 01 [12] the relay C actuates the solenoid s3 [12] which activates the pressure foot and thereby opens the end sewing switch ES] [1]. The switch ESl remains open during the remainder of the stitching process along with the relay A with the contacts a1 a2 [7] and a3 [12] returning to their initial positions as shown in FIG. 3. The control of the carriage 6 is at this time terminated by the opening of contact a3 [12].
  • Relay D is energized via contacts gl [2], b1 [2] and a1 [5] and remains is this positions by means of a template control switch E83 [4] and its contact d2 [4]. With the opening of contact d1 [3] the relay C becomes deenergized. When energized the relay C will initiate the operation of the stitching machine.
  • Relay E now becomes energized via contacts gl [2], b1 [2], b5 [4] and a1 [5].
  • Relay F [6] energizes through the end switch E54 [6] and contact e1 [6] which induces or energizes a motor m2 [7] via contactsf2-4 [6] resulting in the movement of the carriage 6 in a longitudinal direction (double headed 13) to the next working point as determined by the distance between the buttonhole slits 8 of the terminal 7.
  • Contact e2 [10] opens and allows relay J [10] to deenergize.
  • the switch E53 [4] located on the carriage 6 (not shown) which to this point remains closed now reaches a depression in a pattern associated with the garment 7 which marks the new sewing point (next buttonhole slit 8) and opens allowing the relay D [4] to deenergize.
  • the motor has a small constant lag in order that the switch E83 [4] is driven out of the depression of the pattern and immediately closes.
  • the relay E [5] deenergizes resulting in the opening of the contact e1 [6] and the deenergization of the relay F [6] which interrupts forward movement of the carriage 6 and the fabric or garment 7 thereupon.
  • Relay G [7] remains in position during the return trip of the carriage 6 by means of the contacts gl [2], BS5 [7] and a2 [7] until the carriage has reached the starting position and opens end switch ES 5 [7] which is closed during the latter described procedure. Relay G then deenergizes and the motor m2 is stopped.
  • a buttonhole stitching machine in combination: a carriage adapted to receive a workpiece in indexed position thereon such that an edge of the workpiece extends generally longitudinally of the carriage; buttonhole means for automatically stitching buttonholes on the workpiece; means for stopping said carriage in the longitudinal direction upon completion of a buttonhole stitching cycle so as to achieve selected spacing between successive buttonholes stitched on the work piece; means for moving said carriage in either direction along a path perpendicular to said longitudinal direction; photoelectric means for detecting said edge of the workpiece as said carriage is moved along said path, and control means associated with said photoelectric means for stopping said carriage in its movement along said path and for initiating a buttonhole stitching cycle only in response to detection of said edge while the carriage is moving in one particular direction along said path.
  • said control means includes manual means for enabling a buttonhole cycle, means for starting a buttonhole cycle only in response to successive exposure and eclipse of said photoelectric means after the cycle is enabled, and means for causing said carriage to withdraw a workpiece until said photoelectric means is exposed and then to present a workpiece in the event that said photoelectric means is eclipsed at the instant a cycle is enabled.
  • control means includes two switching contacts arranged in series for actuating said buttonhole means, one of said contacts being normally open and being closed only in response to exposure of said photoelectric means, and the other of said switching contacts being normally closed and being opened only in response to eclipsing of said photoelectric means.
  • control means includes a first relay energized in response to exposure of said photoelectric means, a second relay energized in response to energization of said first relay, and a pair of switch contacts one actuated by each of said first and second relays, that switch contact actuated by said first relay being normally closed and that switch contact actuated by said second relay being normally open.
  • a buttonhole stitching machine in combination: a carriage adapted to receive a workpiece in indexed position thereon so that an edge of the workpiece projects laterally from the carriage and extends generally longitudinally of the carriage; buttonhole stitching means disposed to one side of said carriage and including a stitch-hole device; means for translating said carriage back and forth along a path transverse to the carriage respectively to withdraw a marginal edge of the workpiece from above said stitch-hole device and to present such marginal edge over the stitch-hole device; control means for enabling and initiating a buttonhole stitching cycle, said control means including a manually controlled switch for enabling a cycle, photoelectric means for detecting the presence and absence of said marginal edge in predetermined relation to said stitch-hole device, means for withdrawing said carriage in the detected presence of said marginal edge at the enabling of the cycle and for presenting said carriage when the absence is subsequently detected, means for presenting the carriage in the detected absence of said marginal edge at the enabling of the cycle, and means for stopping said carriage and energizing said stitching means to
  • control means includes two switching contacts arranged in series for actuating said buttonhole means, one of said contacts being normally open and being closed only in response to exposure of said photoelectric means, and the other of said switching contacts being normally closed and being opened only in response to eclipsing of said photoelectric means.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
US00316925A 1971-12-22 1972-12-20 Machine for the stitching of buttonholes on garments Expired - Lifetime US3788247A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE19712163728 DE2163728C3 (de) 1971-12-22 Vorrichtung zur Positionierung der Nahgutkante an einer Nähmaschine

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
US3788247A true US3788247A (en) 1974-01-29

Family

ID=5828788

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US00316925A Expired - Lifetime US3788247A (en) 1971-12-22 1972-12-20 Machine for the stitching of buttonholes on garments

Country Status (3)

Country Link
US (1) US3788247A (it)
JP (1) JPS5673B2 (it)
IT (1) IT972701B (it)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH027666Y2 (it) * 1985-10-29 1990-02-23
JPH0322381U (it) * 1989-07-17 1991-03-07

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3151583A (en) * 1960-11-10 1964-10-06 Emsig Mfg Co Shiftable work carriage for a sewing machine
US3228364A (en) * 1963-01-14 1966-01-11 Phillips Van Heusen Corp Apparatus for facilitating the attachment of buttons
US3323476A (en) * 1964-07-01 1967-06-06 Selden Mfg Corp Automatic sequential unit
US3599583A (en) * 1967-06-16 1971-08-17 Icchok Majer Berman Automatic sewing machine
US3722436A (en) * 1971-02-23 1973-03-27 Mc Kee Button Co Garment working machine

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3151583A (en) * 1960-11-10 1964-10-06 Emsig Mfg Co Shiftable work carriage for a sewing machine
US3228364A (en) * 1963-01-14 1966-01-11 Phillips Van Heusen Corp Apparatus for facilitating the attachment of buttons
US3323476A (en) * 1964-07-01 1967-06-06 Selden Mfg Corp Automatic sequential unit
US3599583A (en) * 1967-06-16 1971-08-17 Icchok Majer Berman Automatic sewing machine
US3722436A (en) * 1971-02-23 1973-03-27 Mc Kee Button Co Garment working machine

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPS5673B2 (it) 1981-01-06
DE2163728A1 (de) 1973-06-28
JPS4873261A (it) 1973-10-03
IT972701B (it) 1974-05-31
DE2163728B2 (de) 1976-12-23

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
US3797423A (en) Fabric turnover, mating and sewing device
US3072081A (en) Edge guide automatic sewing
US3417718A (en) System for automatically guiding the work in a sewing machine
US4481895A (en) Piping sewing device
GB2166765A (en) Thread consuming machine with thread coloring device and related process
US3363594A (en) Automatic feed mechanism for sewing machines
US3736895A (en) Guiding apparatus for a stitching machine
US3469545A (en) Conveyor sewing unit with shiftable top feed belt and work loading arrangement
US3799086A (en) Apparatus for sewing garment parts
US3810436A (en) Apparatus for forming patterned seams in fabric workpieces
US4034689A (en) Device for manufacturing braided openings in cuts of articles of clothing
US3788247A (en) Machine for the stitching of buttonholes on garments
US4178862A (en) Programmed sewing machine with two connectable and disconnectable needle bars
US3344759A (en) Workholders for use in apparatus for guiding a workholder relative to a tool
US3653347A (en) Automatic apparatus for sewing a seam of a predetermined configuration
US5170733A (en) Trouser fly piece serging apparatus
US3786768A (en) Automatic hemming apparatus
US3921550A (en) Guide and sewing device for fabric layers along a shaped edge
US2764112A (en) Power operated control units for sewing machines
US3752097A (en) Fabric edge finishing machines
US4061097A (en) Unit for automatically sewing the opposite edges of piece of fabric
US4336761A (en) Automatic sewing apparatus
US1537155A (en) Tacking and barring machine
US3351032A (en) Work holding and transferring device
US3082719A (en) Automatic work positioning attachment for button hole machine