US3742543A

US3742543A - Method of and apparatus for moccasin toe forming

Info

Publication number: US3742543A
Application number: US00198604A
Authority: US
Inventors: J Ioannilli
Original assignee: USM Corp
Current assignee: USM Corp
Priority date: 1971-11-15
Filing date: 1971-11-15
Publication date: 1973-07-03
Anticipated expiration: 1990-07-03
Also published as: CA966262A

Abstract

Method and apparatus for forming a pocket in a vamp prior to the vamp''s being sewn to a plug in the manufacture of true moccasintype footwear. The method includes stretching of the vamp beyond its elastic limit generally in the sole line, and heat setting the stretched portion to hold the stretch such that a pocket-like portion is formed in the vamp corresponding to the sole area. Apparatus for performing the method includes means to secure the vamp adjacent the sole line from lateral movement during the stretching operation, means to effect relative vertical displacement between the clamped areas to accomplish the stretching of the vamp and heating means to accomplish permanent deformation of the material beyond its elastic limit.

Description

United States Patent [191 loannilli [451 Ju1y3, 1973 METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR MOCCASIN TOE FORMING [75] Inventor: Joseph R. loannilli, Beverly, Mass.

[73] Assignee: USM Corporation, Boston, Mass.

22 Filed: Nov. 15, 1971 [21] Appl. No.: 198,604

[52] US. Cl. 12/142 MC, 12/1 M Primary Examiner-Patrick D. Lawson Attorney-Richard B. Megley, Howard R. Berkenstock, Jr. et al.

[57] ABSTRACT Method and apparatus for forming a pocket in a vamp prior to the vamps being sewn to a plug in the manufacture of true moccasin-type footwear. The method includes stretching of the vamp beyond its elastic limit generally in the sole line, and heat setting the stretched portion to hold the stretch such that a pocket-like portion is formed in the vamp corresponding to the sole area. Apparatus for performing the method includes means to secure the vamp adjacent the sole line from lateral movement during the stretching operation, means to effect relative vertical displacement between the clamped areas to accomplish the stretching of the vamp and heating means to accomplish permanent deformation of the material beyond its elastic limit.

10 Claims, 7 Drawing Figures PAIENIEDJUL 3 ms 3.742.543

sum 1 w 2 Inventor Joseph Rfoannz'llz' KH 7 B7 his Attorne 2L. KELM 9 METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR MOCCASIN TOE FORMING BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates generally to improvements in method of manufacturing composite articles of footwear such as moccasins. As herein used, the term moccasin is understood to mean a shoe in which a vamp (a part of the upper) underlies the wearers foot, particularly in the toe area, and is joined by a seam to a toe covering plug. In the composite article the vamp portion underlying the foot generally forms a sole portion. In the toe area of moccasins the vamp progresses from the sole portion to upstanding sides or walls and terminates at the seam margin, adapted to be there joined to the plug. For purposes of definition that region where the vamp turns up from sole portion to sides or walls is designated the sole line, and'the region immediately adjacent thereto is the sole line region. When the moccasin is lasted, the sole line corresponds to the feather edge of the last.

Conventionally, moccasins have been hand assembled on a last by a tedious, time-consuming process requiring considerable individual skill upon the part of the worker. In the conventional process, a thoroughly mulled vamp is stretched progressively over the last as its edge or seam margin is joined to that of a plug during the hand sewing of the moccasin toe seam. In the conventional hand sewn seam (a two-thread throughand-through seam) each of the two threads passes through a stick hole and then alternately over the surface of the plug end of the vamp. Individual skill is necessitated because the seaming not only joins the parts but also stretches the vamp and plug over the last to give the moccasin its shape. Since uniformity of product is desired, and there are unavoidable variations in the leather of vamps and plugs, the maker must exercise great care, which renders the operation timeconsuming and expensive.

Because of the high cost of hand sewn moccasins, the lack of uniformity of product, and the lack of durability of the moccasin seam, many attempts have been made to mechanize the production of moccasins. In general, however, these attempts have not gained commercial acceptance for a variety of reasons, e.g., complexity and, thus, high cost of the machinery; lack of reliability of machinery; and general inability of the mechanization to duplicate the general appearance and form of the hand sewn/lasted moccasin.

Substantial progress has been made in the development of method and apparatus for lockstitch sewing the vamp to the plug. These developments are disclosed in U. S. Pat. No. 3,530,808 dated Sept. 29, 1970 and US. Pat. No. 3,538,527 dated Nov. I0, 1970, both to Joseph R. loannilli. By these methods and apparatus, the

vamp may be sewn to the plug starting with both parts in a flat condition and forming a three-dimensional pouch progressively as the edge of the vamp is joined by the seam to that of the plug. In the sewing, the longer edge of the vamp is puckered to match the length of the shorter plug. As disclosed in the above patents, after the completion of the sewing operation, the moccasin assembly (vamp and plug) is stretched on a last to give it shape, and, thereafter, finishing operations are carried out in a conventional manner.

In spite of these significant improvements, the toe pouch thus formed in the vamp does not have the fully onto the last for the subsequent finishing operations.

Since the pouch is sewn in an unstretched" condition, it must be subsequently lasted to complete the manufacture. It has been found in lasting the sewn parts that it is difficult to cause the seam and pouch ofthe composite article to assume the conventional fully upright condition atthe seamline of the vamp and plug on the last.

A further problem existing in the mechanized production of true moccasins is the achievement of the uniformly puckered vamp at the seam where the vamp is joined to the plug. The uniformly puckered seam forming the customary upstanding ridge around the toe is a universally recognizable characteristic of a mocca- SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the method and apparatus of the invention to form a pocket in a workpiece such as a vamp utilized in moccasin-type footwear construction. This pocket is located in the area corresponding to the sole portion of the vamp, generally in the toe area ahead of the ball line and is formed by stretching the vamp material beyond its elastic limits in the general region of the sole line. The stretching of the material around the sole line region causes the marginal unstretched portion of a vamp to be generally upstanding after the stretching and thus identifiable as the upstanding sides in the composite article. The apparatus of the invention for per- DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS FIG. 1 is a pictorial view of footwear of moccasin type construction.

FIG. 2 is a'pictorial view of a lasted moccasin.

FIG. 3 is a partial view in elevation of the toe area of a machine-stitched moccasin toe lasted without being prior toe-formed according to the invention.

FIG. 4 is a pictorial view of the apparatus of the invention.

FIG. 5 is a fragmentary view in'front elevation, partially in section showing the die structure of the machine of FIG. 4.

FIGS. 6 and 7 are progressive views illustrating the forming of moccasin parts according to the method of the invention.

' DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT Referring now to the drawings in general and in particular FIG. 1, reference number 10 generally indicates a true moccasin assembly including a vamp l2 and a casins plug 14, seamed together as at 16 conventionally by a lockstitch. In the conventional hand manufacture of moccasins, the vamp is backseamed as at 18 and placed upon a last prior to the seaming at 16 (FIG. 2). Vamp 12 is then hand sewn along seam 16 to plug 14', being pulled over the last L (as shown in FIG. 2) in the toe area 20 in a stitch-by-stitch process. As each stitch 22 is formed a pucker 24 is coordinately formed in the vamp at the seam margin 23 to draw the longer length of vamp at the toe down to that of the plug. As the composite is formed, the vamp gains the identifiable shape .of a moccasin having upstanding sides 25 terminating at seam margin 23. Sides 25 meet the sole portion 26 at a sole line 27. The necessity of prior forming a pouch-like depression in the toe area of the vamp was unknown in conventional hand sewing of moccasins. In hand manufacture the vamp was coordinately pulled, stretched-formed and puckered in the tedious stitchby-stitch hand sewing indulged in by the worker, i.e., built up on the last.

It was not until the advent of mechanized true moccasin construction that a need was realized for a prepared vamp, one in which a pouch-like area was formed. This new advent of machine stitching of vamp to plug and subsequently lasting it for the remaining processes of manufacture such as sole attaching disclosed the necessity of additional distinct steps for manufacturing. In the method of manufacture of mocdisclosed in the loannilli US. Pat. No. 3,538,527, one problem became evident in the steps required to proceed from the sub-manufacture illustrated in FIG. 3 of that patent to that illustrated in FIG. 4 therein.

As disclosed in that patent, prior to inserting a last (FIG. 2) into the moccasin (FIG. 3), the interconnected vamp and plug are preferably subjected to a mulling operation. This procedure enhances the materials s final shaping and stretchability during lasting. However, since both the vamp and the plug are mulled in the disclosed mechanized manufacture, both are capable of substantial stretching and shaping during the above mentioned lasting. Because of this capability, the lasted assembly often became improperly oriented, as illustrated in FIG. 3 of this disclosure. As the last L is inserted, plug 14 may be stretched at 30 coordinately with vamp 12 at 32, resulting in the seam line 16 occurring at 34 such that the toe area is incorrectly shaped I to give the conventional moccasin appearance. As may be seen from FIG. 3, the plug at 30 is also stretched causing seam 16 to be oriented closer to the sole line 27, and the plug at 32 is not sufficiently stretched. A properly lasted moccasin would have an upstanding seam margin 23 and be generally formed as indicated by the dotted lines at 35. i

The present invention overcomes the above-stated shortcomings found in the method disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 3,538,527. The present method enhances that method by forming the vamp 12 by the subsequently disclosed method and apparatus prior to exercising the manufacturing method of the cited patent. Coordinately with the overcoming of the seam orientation problem, it was also discovered that the condition of seam margin 23 subsequently seamed at 16 could be worked to enhance the uniformity of puckering at 22.

, Since the seam 16 is machine done, it was found that a presoftened and drawn seam margin 23 could be more uniformly gathered as at 22.

Referring now to FIGS. 4, 5 and 6, reference number 40 indicates apparatus for toe forming a moccasin vamp prior to its being seamed to a plug as illustrated in FIG. 1. The apparatus includes cooperating die

structures

42 and 44 which may be operated to form the desired pouch in a vamp. In the embodiment illustrated, a generally convex die 42 is mounted in forming machine 40 for reciprocal movement in a vertical direction on the lower frame 41. Die 42 may be actuated by fluid motor means, well known in the art and not shown. Die 42 includes a raised portion 46, being generally semicylindrical and having a marginal portion 48 conforming to the marginal shape of the feather edge of a moccasin last. Disposed on flat surface 50 of portion 46 of the die 42 are holding means such as pins 52. In its initial operating position in machine 40, surface 50 of die 42 is aligned with a workpiece supporting table 54 disposed upon the forming machine 40.

In the embodiment illustrated, surface 50 of convex die 42 is adapted with a rib 53 disposed generally along die margin 48. Rib 53 is of a height sufficient to gener ally raise or hold a vamp 12 off the surface 50 during the forming operations subsequently described, yet still permit pins 52 to secure sole portion 26 from lateral movement.

Disposed opposite convex die 42 on upper frame 43 is concave die member 44 having a cavity 56 which is complementary in shape to die member 42. Die member 44 in the illustrated embodiment is mounted upon base 58 of a heat conductive material such as aluminum. In the preferred embodiment, base 58 contains a bore 60 and a heating element 62. Disposed below member 44 on the underside thereof is a clamping plate 64. In the preferred embodiment, plate 64 is cut out to conform to cavity 56 such that the combined depth of the cavity and the cutout plate is at least equal to the desired degree of stretching of vamp 12. In the instance of a machine 40 capable also of working the seam margin of a vamp, the depth of cavity must be sufficient to enable the margin 23 to be completely drawn into the cavity 56. This condition is illustrated in FIG. 7 and subsequently described.

Base 58 is mounted on a carriage 66 capable of movement from an open or loading position as illustrated in FIG. 4 to a closed or operating position as illustrated in FIG. 5. Carriage 66 may be manually operated, as by a handle 68 and cooperable with a suitable holddown device to prevent opening of the die during the operation sequences of the machine. The carriage may also be automatically operated, as by known means such as fluid motors and sequencing controls.

In operation, a moccasin vamp 12 is inserted into machine 40 on table 54 as illustrated by the dotted lines in FIG. 4, being generally centered so that the intended sole line is aligned with margin 48 of die 42. Vamp 12 is placed on worktable 54 over die 42 with the outside or bottom side up so that the pocket is subsequently formed so that sides. 25 may be deflected out of the plane of sole 26 toward the upstanding side position.

Upper frame 43 is closed on lower frame 41 as illustrated in FIG. 5 so that vamp 12 is clamped between plate 64 and workpiece supporting table 54 generally adjacent seam margin 23 and the intended sole line 27. When frames 4l.and 43 are closed in this position, cooperating die

members

42 and 44 are vertically opposite each other such that die 42 may be received in die 44 and plate 64.

With vamp 12 firmly held between plate 64 and table 54, die 42 is raised toward cavity 56 to a first position, as illustrated in FIG. 6. As die 42 raises, holding pins 52 pierce vamp 12, securing the sole portion 26 generally over die surface 50, with the intended sole line 27 contoured to margin 48. Further vertical movement of die 42 toward the first position causes the vamp 12 to stretch or become formed in the general area adjacent sole line 27. It should be noted that in moccasin toe forming the stretching is generally restricted to that area adjacent sole line 27 at the forward part of the toe and between portion secured by plate 64 and margin 48. In the region of the ball line which occurs generally to the rear of the raised portion 46 indicated generally at 47, the vamp 12 is unclamped. In this region some stretching and forming of the vamp occurs, however, to a lesser degree than in the forward area at 20. By so varying the amount of forming in the toe and ball areas of the vamp, a pocket is formed in the vamp 12 having a maximum of depth in the toe area 20. Also, sides 25 become generally upstanding around toe 20. After seaming vamp 12 to plug 14 as shown in FIG. 1, last L may be readily inserted into the composite moccasin as shown in FIG. 2 and sole line 27 will readily align with the feather edge of the last.

In the preferred practice of the method, heat is applied to the stretched vamp 12 to set the fibers in the leather. This setting quickly dries the mulled vamp in the stretched area so that the fibers in the vamp material retain their stretched relationship and the newly formed vamp is permanently held to its shape. In addition to the heat supplied generally through the heatconductive dies 42 and 44 from a source such as element 62, it has been found advantageous to concentrate the application in the sole line region. By adapting the die 42 with a ridge 53 the setting heat is concentrated at the sole line in the region of deformation. With concentration of heat in this region, the set is accomplished more quickly and with less exposure of the rest of vamp 12 to the drying effects of heat. It is undesirable to dry the remaining portions of a vamp in this initial stage of moccasin manufacture. The composite article (plug and vamp) must be pulled over a last subsequent to various seaming operations where additional forming or contouring of the moccasin occurs. Were the plug and vamp prematurely set, the later final forming of the article on the last would not occur, resulting in an inferior moccasin.

In a preferred practice of the method the formed vamp 12 in FIG. 6 is subjected to further leatherworking operation of machine 40 in FIG. 7. Upper frame 43 is'raised vertically an amount sufficient to release the vamp clamping action between plate 64 and table 54, as shown at 70. Die 42 is then further advanced vertically to a second position as illustrated in FIG. 7.'ln this step the vamp edge 72 isadvanced, preferably fully into the die cavity 56 from the dotted position. This further movementof the vamp edge 72 drawing it into die cavity 56 causes a foreshortening of the perimeter of the vamp at edge 72. The effect of the shortening of edge 72s perimeter causes it to gather or pucker along edge 72, which is also the area of seam margin 23. This effect is quite advantageous and useful in the subsequent seaming of the vamp 12 to a plug 14, since, as previously discussed, the vamp is puckered or gathered during the stitching process. The formed vamp having a worked edge 72 may be mechanically seamed by the method and apparatus of the previously mentioned patents to give a uniform seam of puckered appearance traditional to the hand sewn moccasin. I

It should be noted that a preferred embodiment of the method and apparatus of my invention has,been shown and described. It is apparent that other adaptations and modifications may be made without departing from the scope of the following claims.

Having thus described the invention, what I claim a new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. In the manufacture of footwear of moccasin type construction wherein the composite article in the forepart area includes a vamp having a sole portion, an upstanding side portion which meets the sole portion around the toe area in a sole line region and a seamreceiving margin along the edge of said upstanding side portion and a toe covering plug having a seamreceiving margin adapted to be seamed to said vamp along said seam-receiving margin, the method of shaping said vamp prior to said seaming, comprising: securing said vamp from transverse movement generally adjacent said seam margin along said side portion and adjacent said sole line region, securing said sole portion from transverse movement generally adjacent said sole line margin; and, laterally displacing said side portions relatively of said sole portion, stretching said vamp beyond its elastic limit generally in the unsecured sole line region, thereby deforming said vamp such that upon releasing said securing means said side portions are generally upstanding and a pocket-like depression is formed in said sole portion.

2. The method according to claim 1 including the step of heating said vamp to assist setting said vamp in said deformed condition.

' 3. The method according to claim 2 wherein the heating of said vamp is generally restricted to the sole line region.

4. The method according to claim 2 wherein stretching of said vamp occurs between two cooperatively shaped die members, one generally concave and the second generally convex including the step of drawing said vamp into said concave die at least up to said seam margin subsequent to said stretching, flexing and drawing said seam margin down and thereby foreshortening saidseam margin.

5. Apparatus for forming a selected area of a generally flat workpiece such as the toe area of a moccasin vamp, comprising: a work supporting table; die means disposed in said work table corresponding in shape to the selected area of the workpiece to be formed; means for securing said workpiece against said work table; carriage means movable relative to said work table; second die means disposed on said carriage mean complementary in shape to and movable relatively toward and away from said first die means; means for securing said workpiece from transverse movement on said second die means; and, means for sequentially actuating said securing means against said work table and said carriage means whereby said workpiece is clamped on said table relative to said dies and a predetermined lim- I ited area of said workpiece is subsequently subjected to the action of said cooperable die means.

6. Apparatus according to claim 5 wherein said die means disposed in said-work table has a marginal portion shaped to correspond to the feather edge of the toe area of a moccasin last and said securing means is adapted to clamp said workpiece to said table generally adjacent said marginal portion.

7. Apparatus according to claim 6 wherein one of said die means is generally concave and the other said die means is generally convex and said convex die is disposed within said apparatus in an operable relation so as to carry said selected area of the workpiece to be formed into the concave die whereby said workpiece is deformed and stretched adjacent said marginal portions.

8. Apparatus according to claim 7 wherein said convex die means includes a generally raised flat portion thereon within the area defined by said marginal portion and has means disposed thereon for securing said workpiece generally from transverse movement on said raised portion upon contact therewith whereby in the sequence of operation of said apparatus the deforming marginal portion corresponding to said feather edge.

Claims

1. In the manufacture of footwear of moccasin type construction wherein the composite article in the forepart area includes a vamp having a sole portion, an upstanding side portion which meets the sole portion around the toe area in a sole line region and a seam-receiving margin along the edge of said upstanding side portion and a toe covering plug having a seam-receiving margin adapted to be seamed to said vamp along said seamreceiving margin, the method of shaping said vamp prior to said seaming, comprising: securing said vamp from transverse movement generally adjacent said seam margin along said side portion and adjacent said sole line region, securing said sole portion from transverse movement generally adjacent said sole line margin; and, laterally displacing said side portions relatively of said sole portion, stretching said vamp beyond its elastic limit generally in the unsecured sole line region, thereby deforming said vamp such that upon releasing said securing means said side portions are generally upstanding and a pocket-like depression is formed in said sole portion.

3. The method according to claim 2 wherein the heating of said vamp is generally restricted to the sole line region.

4. The method according to claim 2 wherein stretching of said vamp occurs between two cooperatively shaped die members, one generally concave and the second generally convex including the step of drawing said vamp into said concave die at least up to said seam margin subsequent to said stretching, flexing and drawing said seam margin down and thereby foreshortening said seam margin.

5. Apparatus for forming a selected area of a generally flat workpiece such as the toe area of a moccasin vamp, comprising: a work supporting table; die means disposed in said work table corresponding in shape to the selected area of the workpiece to be formed; means for securing said workpiece against said work table; carriage means movable relative to said work table; second die means disposed on said carriage means complementary in shape to and movable relatively toward and away from said first die means; means for securing said workpiece from transverse movement on said second die means; and, means for sequentially actuating said securing means against said work table and said carriage means whereby said workpiece is clamped on said table relative to said dies and a predetermined limited area of said workpiece is subsequently subjected to the action of said cooperable die means.

6. Apparatus according to claim 5 wherein said die means disposed in said work table has a marginal portion shaped to correspond to the feather edge of the toe area of a moccasin last and said securing means is adapted to clamp said workpiece to said table generally adjacent said marginal portion.

8. Apparatus according to claim 7 wherein said convex die means includes a generally raised flat portion thereon within the area defined by said marginal portion and has means disposed thereon for securing said workpiece generally from transverse movement on said raised portion upon contact therewith whereby in the sequence of operation of said apparatus the deforming of said workpiece is generally restricted to the portion thereof between said portion clamped to said work table and the portion secured on said raised portion.

9. Apparatus according to claim 8 wherein at least one of said die means includes heating means.

10. Apparatus according to claim 9 wherein said convex die includes a rib projecting above said raised flat portion and extending substantially throughout said marginal portion corresponding to said feather edge.