US2234543A - Manufacture of moccasins - Google Patents

Description

Marchll, 1941. ASHWQRTH ETAL 2,234,543

MANUFACTURE OF MoccAsINs Filed Nov. 15, 1938 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Wl/E/VTU/FS Ed M March 11, 1941. ASHWQRTH ETAL 2,234,543

MANUFACTURE OF MOCCASINS Filed NOV. 15, 1938 4 Sheets$heet 2 March 11, 1941. HW ETAL 1 2,234,543

MANUFACTURE OF MOCCASINS Filed Nov. 15, 1938 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 March 11', 1941. F, ASHWORTH ETAL 2,234,543

MANUFACTURE OF MOCCAS INS Filed Nov. 15, 1938 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE MANUFACTURE. or MOCCASINS Fred Ashworth, Wcnham, and Corwin W. Baker, Stoneham, Mass., assignors to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Borough of Flemington, N. J a corporation of New Jersey Application November 15, 1938, Serial No. 240,546

31 Claims.

The present invention relates to the manufacture of moccasins. The term moccasin as hereinafter employed includes all types of footwear whereby that portion of the bottom of the foot from the region of the ball forwardly is provided with an integral covering the marginal portion of which extends upwardly about the sides of the iorepart of the foot, such foot-bottom cover- I ing being herein identified as the moccasin bot- V tedious and time-consuming hand labor which is "required in methods now generally employed in the manufacture of moccasins.

With the above object in view, the invention in one of its aspects consists in positioning a moccasin bottom on a forepart-shaping form, applying shaping means to the forepart of the moccasin bottom, operating said shaping means to shape the forepart to the form, holding the shaped forepart on the form by said shaping means and then, while the forepart is so held, applying a portable clamping member to the periphery of the forepart of the moccasin bottom between the line on which the forepart is trimmed for the reception of a toe piece, hereinafter referred to as the trimming line, and the sole portion of the moccasin bottom to hold the moccasin bottom in shaped condition on the form during operations subsequent tothe shaping of the moccasin bottom. The illustrated shaping means is a flexible cable which moves lengthwise and heightwise of the form on the periphery of its iorepart to shape the iorepart of the moccasin bottom thereto. Preferably, the periphery of the forepart of the form is inclined somewhat, the form herein illustrated being generally conoidal in shape at the forepart, to the end that the cable will move heightwise of the form when it is drawn, rearwardly of the form. During its heightwise movement, the cable stretches the moccasin bottom about the forepart of the form and shapes it to the form. The illustrated clamping member, whereby the forepart is held against the form after it has been shaped by the cable, engages the iorepart between the cable and the sole portion of the moccasin and its upper edge provides a guide for the trimming knife. Preferably, the trimming knife is also guided by a guiding surface provided on the form and so located that when the knife is guided by the edge of the clamping member and the guiding surface on the form, it is correctly oriented to form on the moccasin bottom a beveled edge face adapted to be secured to the edge face of the toe piece. The clamping member is applied to the forepart of the moccasin bottom and attached to the form while the forepart is held against the form. by the cable and remains on the form while the toe piece is attached to the forepart. In order that the cable may be depended upon to hold the shaped forepart against the form until the clamp ing member is attached to the form, the gradient of the peripheral surface of the forepart of the form is such that there is no danger of accidentally pulling the cable over the top of the form in the forepart-shaping operation. In order to permit the toe piece to be attached to the moccasin bottom while the moccasin bottom. is still on the form, the top of the forepart of the form is removable from the body portion of the form to provide room for the insertion of the toe piece.

In accordance with this invention, in another aspect, dry heat is applied to the forepart of the moccasin bottom while it is clamped against theform and before the toe piece is attached thereto, thereby to accelerate the drying of the forepart. This is particularly desirable when the moccasin is made from thick, oily stock, such as is commonly employed in the manufacture of this type of footwear. It is proposed to apply heat to the inner surface of the forepart in order that the entire thickness of the stock may be dried. Preferably, the drying is done before the toppiece is removed from the form by placing the moccasin in inverted position in a heater which, as herein illustrated, has a hot plate on. which the top piece of the form rests. Heat from the hot plate is conducted to the inner surface of the forepart of the moccasin bottom through the form which preferably is made of metal.

After the moccasin bottom on the form is removed from the heater, adhesive cement, such, for example, as latex, is applied to the edge face of the forepart and also to the edge face of a toe piece and while the moccasin bottom is still held against the form'by the clamping member, the toe piece, as herein illustrated, is initially attached to the forepart of the moccasin bottom edgeto edge at selected points, for example, at the toe end of the moccasin bottom and at opposite ends of the line of union of the toe piece and the moccasin bottom. This preliminary attachment helps to maintain the shape of the forepart of the moccasin bottom after the form is removed. Beforethe toe piece is positioned for attachment to the moccasin bottom, a guard is so positioned on the form as to prevent contact of the cemented heightwise.

edge face of the toe piece with the cemented edge face of the moccasin bottom except at the three points where said edge faces are to be united. After the form is removed, the guard is removed and the cement attachment of the toe piece to the moccasin bottom is completed. This operation may be completed to the best advantage after the form has been removed, since the moccasin bottom at that time is not confined and, consequently, the operator is free to arrange the cemented edge faces to his satisfaction for pressing them together.

The moccasin is then completed by stitching the toe piece to the forepart, preferably by means of a machine-sewn lock-stitch seam, and stitching an outsole to the sole portion of the moccasin bottom. A last is then inserted into the moccasin to give it its final shape and whileit is on the last, the finishing operations are performed in the usual manner.

It is a further object of the invention to provide means for use in practicing the foregoing method. Accordingly, a feature of the invention comprises a form for use in shaping the forepart of a moccasin bottom characterized by the provision of a guiding surface for positioning a trimming knife heightwise of the: form. For holding a moccasin bottom against the form, there is provided, in accordance with a further feature of the invention, a clamp constructed and arranged to engage the periphery of the forepart of the moccasin bottom and grip it against the form, said clamp being provided with means for engaging the margin only of the sol-e portion of the moccasin bottom thereby to position the clamp A clamp which engages the margin only of the sole portion of a moccasin bottom may readily be applied to the moccasin :bottom while the moccasin bottom is held in shaped condition in a moccasin-shaping machine such as that illustrated in Letters Patent of the United States No. 2,086,526, granted July 13, 1937, on an appli--' cation of Fred Ashworth, since only the center of the sole portion of the moccasin bottom engages the work support of the lasting machine. As herein illustrated, the clamp is provided with a knife-guiding surface which co-operates with the knife-guiding surface of the form to position the knife heightwise of the moccasin bottom and to orient the knife so as to provide a suitably beveled edge face for attachment to the edge face of a toe piece. The forepart of the form is provided with a removable top piece which is in position on the form during the shaping operation, the periphery of said top piece providing the upper portion of the forepart-shaping surface of the form.

These and other aspects and features of the invention will now be described with reference to the accompanying drawings and will be pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a side elevation of parts of a machine for shaping a moccasin bottom over a form, together with a moccasin bottom on a form in position to be operated upon, the shaping member being shown in its position at the begining of the shaping operation;

Fig. 2 is a view similar to Fig. 1, showing the forepart only of the moccasin bottom on its form and showing the Work-engaging portion of the shaping member in its position at the completion of its operation;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of the forepart of the moccasin bottom on its form, illustrating'the,

shaping of the side portions of the forepart with hand pincers;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the forepart of the moccasin bottom on its form and a clamping member clamped to the moccasin bottom to hold it in shaped condition;

Fig. 5 is a perspective view similar to Fig. 4, illustrating the trimming of the forepart of the moccasin bottom by means of a hand knife;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of a toe piece, the margin of which has been flanged upwardly to facilitate cement attachment thereof to the moccasin bottom edge to edge, part of the toe piece being broken away to show the flange;

Fig. -7 isa perspective view similar to Fig. 5, showing the forepart of the form without its top piece, the forepart of a moccasin bottom on the form with a toe piece initially cemented to the moccasin bottom at three points and also a guard for preventing accidental contact of the cement-treated edge faces at the sides of the toe piece and the moccasin bottom;

Fig. 8 is a sectional view of the moccasin taken on the line VIII--VIII of Fig. 7;

Fig. 9 is a front elevation illustrating part of a heater for heat treating the forepart of the moccasin bottom after it has been shaped and while it is still on the form, a moccasin bottom on its form being illustrated in section in the heater;

Fig. 10 is a perspective view similar to Fig. 5, illustratingthe trimming of the forepart of the moccasin bottom by a hand knife after the top piece of the forepart of the form has been removed;

Fig. 11 is a perspective view illustrating operating parts of a folding machine operating on the margin of a moccasin toe piece to form a flange thereon;

Fig. 12 is a side elevation of another moccasinshaping form, the forepart being shown in section and the forward portion of the top piece of the form being broken away;

Fig. 13 is a sectional view similar to Fig. 12, illustrating the toe end of the form with a shaped moccasin bottom clamped thereto;

Fig. 14 is a perspective View of a clamp for gripping the forepart of a moccasin bottom against the form, and

Fig. 15 is a perspective view showing the forepart of a moccasin bottom gripped between the form and a clamp which differs slightly from that shown in Fig. 14.

In practicing the method of the present invention, a moccasin bottom is shaped on a form specially provided for this operation, such a form being illustrated in Fig. l with a moccasin bottom 20 mounted thereon. Preferably, the form consists of a forepart 22 and a rear part 23 which are connected together by a hinge, not shown in the drawings. The hinge construction, which may be the same as the hinge construction of any of the various types of hinged lasts, permits the rear part of the form to be Withdrawn from the moccasin bottom before the moccasin is removed from the form. The advantage of employing a hinged form in practicing the present method will be hereinafter explained. When the moccasin bottom 20 is mounted on the form, the forepart has not been shaped but is a substantially fiat piece of leather, while the, rear part, on the other hand, is substantially in its final form, The rear part of the moccasin bottom is accurately located on the rear part 23 of the form and is secured in position thereon by one or two tacks driven through the rear part of the moccasin bottorn and into the form. The moccasin bottom on the form is then mounted in upright position in a lasting machine, such as that illustrated and described in the Ashworth Patent No. 2,086,526, above referred to, parts of which are illustrated in Fig. 1. The forepart of the moccasin bottom is mounted on a work-supporting table 24, while the rear part is positioned in a carrier 26 which is moved forwardly of the supported moccasin on the table 24 to position the forepart of the moccasin bottom for the lasting operation. The shaping of the forepart is performed by the operation of a flexible shaping member or cable 28 which is drawn rearwardly of the moccasin bottom or to the right, as seen in Fig. 1, by the operation of mechanism not shown in the drawings. The margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom is manually turned upwardly about the bottom of the form into its position illustrated in Fig. 1 for the reception of the cable 28. At the beginning of the lasting operation, the cable is positioned as shown in Fig. 1, with its forward portion extending about the toe end of the moccasin bottom and located near the sole portion of the moccasin bottom. As the cable is drawn rearwardly of the form, it grips the margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom and draws it upwardly upon the peripheral surface of the forepart of the form which, as illustrated in Fig. 1, is so inclined that the cable moves heightwise of the form during its rearward movement from its position in Fig. 1 to its position in Fig. 2. This movement of the cable stretches the forepart of the moccasin bottom about the forepart of the form and compresses the margin of the forepart to shape it to the form. Preferably, the periphery of the forepart of the form is a conoidal surface without heightwise curvature and having a substantially uniform gradient at the toe end, that is, the angle between the side portions and the bottom of the form is substantially the same at all points about the toe end of the form. This gradient is such that a heavy pull on the cable will cause the cable to move upwardly of said peripheral surface while permitting the cable at the end of the shaping operation to operate as a clamping means to hold the moccasin bottom in shaped condition. After the lasting has been completed and while the moccasin bottom is held in lasted position by the clamping action of the cable 28, the operator stretches the side portions of the forepart about the form by means of a lasting tool such, for example, as the lasting pincers 30 illustrated in Fig. 3. The stretch thus imparted to the stock is maintained by the clamping action of the cable 28 which is sufficient to prevent any loss of the tension thus imparted to the stock while permitting the stock to be drawn upwardly between the cable and the form by the lastingpincers without injury thereto. After the forepart of the moccasin bottom has been lasted and while the moccasin bottom on the form is still held in the lasting machine with the forepart held in lasted position by the cable 28, a forepart-clamping member 32 (Fig. 4) is brought into clamping engagementwith the forepart of the moccasin'bottom and secured by tacks, one of which is illustrated at 34 in Fig. 4, said tacks extending through holes 36 provided in ears 38 extending rearwardly from the upper margin of the clamping member. The clamping member engages that portion of the forepart between the cable 28 and the sole portion of the moccasin bottom and is positioned heightwise of the moccasin by the engagement of inwardly extending ears, one of defines the line along which the forepart is to be.

trimmed for the reception of a toe piece, such, for example, as the toe piece 31 (Figs. 6 and 7). After the clamping member 32 has been secured to the form 22, the lasting cable 28 is released and the moccasin bottom clamped against the form by the member 32 is removed from the lasting machine.

In Figs. 14 and 15, there is illustrated an alternative clamping member comprising a band 39 which engages the upturned portion of the forepart of the shaped moccasin bottom and has an upper edge which provides a guide for a trimming knife. The clamping member is positioned heightwise of the moccasin bottom by a band 4| constructed and arranged to engage the margin of the sole portion of the moccasin bottom. For

connecting together the bands 39 and 4!, the

band 39 is provided with extensions 43 at its toe end and extensions 45 at its rear end, the end portions of said extensions being turned inwardly and secured to the band 4|. The bottom of the forepart of the moccasin-shaping form is convex and, consequently, only the central portion of it engages the work-supporting portion of the lasting machine (Fig. l) and since the band 4| does not extend inwardly to the center of the sole portion of the moccasin bottom, the clamp may readily be applied to the moccasin bottom while it is held in shaped position'in the lasting machine. For seeming the clamp to the moccasin bottom, a bail 41 is provided and the extensions 45 of the band 39 have outturned portions 49 for receiving the hooked end portions of the bail. In Fig. 15, there is illustrated a bail which is permanently attached to one only of the extensions 45 of the band 39, the bail being held against removal from the extension 45 by a ball 5l at one end of the bail. Fig. 15, the bail engages a member 53 on the forepart 22 of the form and is held by its own resiliency in a recess in the member 53.

In order to expedite the setting of the moccasin bottom to the form, itis proposed to apply heat to the moccasin bottom after the moccasin bottom has been shaped and while it is held on the form by the clamping member. A heater suitable for this purpose is illustrated in Fig. 9. This heater comprises an electrically heated plate 12 mounted on a base 14 and covered by a. hood 16 having a plurality of openings 18 provided on its front face, said openings being large enough to admit the forepart of a moccasin bottom on a form. The moccasin bottom on its form is inserted into the heater in inverted position and the forepart of the form is supported on the hot plate while the rear part of the form is supported by the base 74. In order that heat may readily be applied to the interior of the moccasin bottom on the form, the form is preferably made of heatconducting material, such for example, as aluminum, wooden plugs being provided at points and by a latch pin 43 in the block which engages a fixed pin 45 in the form. The block 40 is removed from the form 22 after the cable has been released to provide clearance within the upper portion of the forepart of the moccasin bottom for the attachment of the toe piece. The trimming of the forepart for attachment to the toe piece may be performed either before or after the block 40 is removed from the form 22. In either case, the upper edge of the clamping member 32 serves as a gage for determining the trimming line and as a guide for the trimming knife. In case the block is not removed until after trimming it is preferable, as a matter of convenience here as well as in the case when the block is removed before trimming, to release the cable before per forming the trimming operation. A suitable hand knife for the trimming operation is illustrated at 42 in Fig. 5. It will be understood, however, that the particular type of knife employed is not material to the invention. In fact, if desired, a cutting machine may be provided for performing the trimming operation. Preferably, the forepart is so trimmed as to provide an edge face which is beveled inwardly for the reception of a correspondingly beveled edge face of the toe piece (see Fig. 8). To facilitate the formation of the desired bevel on the edge face of the moccasin bottom, a moccasin-shaping form, such as that illustrated in Fig. 12, may be employed. This form comprises a base portion 62, the forepart of which is hollow and is provided with an upper edge face 64 which is beveled to correspond to the desired bevel on the edge face of the mocc-asin bottom and extends about the forepart of the form and defines the line along which the moccasin bottom is to be trimmed. Referring to Fig. 13, the upper or knife-guiding edge of the clamp 39, when in position on the moccasin bottom, is in alinement with the edge face 64 widthwise thereof and the trimming knife is accurately oriented for the formation of the required beveled edge face on the moccasin bottom by guiding it against the upper edge of the clamp and against the beveled edge face 64 of the form. The form illustrated in Fig. 12 is provided with a top piece 66 which corresponds generally to the top piece 40 illustrated in Fig. 3. The top piece 66 is provided with an arcuate downward extension 68 at its toe end which engages the inner surface of the toe end of the base portion 62 of the form and positions the toe end of the top piece in alinement with the toe end of the form. The rear portion of the top piece is located and secured to the base 62 by a latch pin 10 which merely springs into a hole in the top piece 66 to secure it to the base 32.

In order that the edge face of the toe piece may readily be positioned against the edge face of the forepart of the moccasin bottom, the margin of the toe piece is turned or flanged outwardly before assembling the toe piece with the moccasin bottom. The flanging of the toe piece may be performed in any convenient manner. For example, it may be performed quickly and efliciently by a folding machine such as that illustrated in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,702,598, granted February 19, 192.9,on an application of Perley R. Glass. Fig. 11 illustrates the operating parts of such a folding machine in operation on a moccasin toe piece. After the toe piece has been thus flanged, adhesive cement is applied to the edge face of the toe piece and also to the edge face of the moccasin bottom and the parts are assemblededge to edge, as illustrated in Fig. 7,

base of the block and into a socket in the form 22' while the moccasin bottom is still clamped against the form by the clamping member 32. The clamping member 32 holds the edge faces at the sides of the forepart of the moccasin bottom closer together than they are located in the completed moccasin and this condition makes it diflicult to assemble the toe piece and the moccasin bottom while the moccasin bottom is on the form. It is, nevertheless, desirable that the toe piece be attached to the moccasin bottom before the clamping member 32 is released from the form in order to retain the shape of the forepart of the moccasin bottom which the cable 28 has imparted thereto. The difficulty in assembling the toe piece with the moccasin bottom is increased when latex is employed as the adhesive for uniting the edge'faces of said parts since latexed surfaces, after the latex has become tacky, must be held against accidental contact because the latex loses its adhesive qualities if the treated surfaces, after coming into contact with each other, are pulled apart to permit the parts to be relocated. It has been found that the best results are obtained by initially securing the toe piece to the edge face of the moccasin bottom at three points only while the moccasin bottom remains on the form, namely, at the toe end of the moccasin bottom and at each end of the line of union, and completing the attachment after the form is removed. In order to prevent accidental contact of other portions of the edge face of the toe piece with the edge face of the moccasin bottom during the assembly of said parts, a guard, such, for example, as the guard 58 illustrated in Fig. 7, is positioned on the forepart of the form with its downturned flanges 60 positioned against the cemented edge faces of the moccasin bottom along opposite sides thereof. The guard is thus positioned before the toe piece is located on the moccasin bottom. The guard remains in position in the forepart of the moccasin until the form is removed and the operator is ready to complete the assembly of the toe piece and the moccasin bottom.

In removing the form from the moccasin, care must be taken that the forepart of the form is not permitted to move forwardly in the moccasin to the slightest extent and it is also important that in removing the form, the forepart 22 of the form be moved rearwardly of the moccasin in a straight line extending from front to back of the moccasin, without any tipping movement whatever. Otherwise, the shape imparted to the forepart by the cable 28 will to some extent be lost and it will be impossible thereafter to restore to the moccasin bottom the shape imparted thereto by the cable. It has been found that a hinged form, such as that shown in Fig. 1, may be removed from the moccasin without serious danger of misshaping the forepart if the rear part is swung upwardly to break the form while the clamping member 32 is still held against the forepart of the form. In breaking the form, the rear part is removed from the rear portion of the moccasin, thus facilitating a rectilinear movement of the form rearwardly of the moccasin to remove it from the forepart of the moccasin.

In the manufacture of inexpensive moccasins, the cost of a hinged form will in some cases be prohibitive. In these cases, a form such as that illustrated in Fig. 12 may be employed without serious danger of misshaping the forepart if the operator is careful in removing the form from the moccasin. Preferably, the rear part of the moccasin is pulled downwardly 01f the form to permit a straight-line movement of the form rearwardly out of the forepart of the moccasin. After the form has been removed from the moccasin, the clamping member 32 is removed from the forepart of the moccasin bottom and immediately thereafter the operator completes the cement attachment of the toe piece to the edge face of the moccasin bottom with his fingers. After cement attaching the toe piece to the moccasin bottom, said parts are stitched together, preferably by means of a lockstitch sewing machine, such, for example, as that illustrated in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,950,386, granted March 13, 1934, upon an application of Fred Ashworth. An outsole is then stitched to the sole portion of the moccasin bottom and the moccasin is then mounted on a last which gives the moccasin its final shape. The remaining operations are performed in the usual manner while the moccasin remains on the last.

Having thus described our invention, what We claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That method of making moccasins which comprise positioning a moccasin bottom on a forepart-shaping form, applying shaping means to the forepart of the moccasin bottom, operating said shaping means to shape the forepart of the moccasin bottom to the form, holding the shaped forepart against the form by said shaping means, and then, while the forepart is so held, applying a portable clamping member to the forepart between the trimming line and the sole portion of the moccasin bottom to hold the moccasin bottom in shaped condition on the form until a toe piece is secured to the moccasin bottom.

2. That method of making moccasins which comprises positioning a moccasin bottom on a forepart-shaping form, applying a shaping member to the forepart of the moccasin bottom, moving said member lengthwise and heightwise of the form thereby to work the forepart of. the moccasin bottom smoothly into engagement with the periphery of the form, holding the shaped forepart against the form by means of the shaping member, and then, while the forepart is so held, applying a portable clamping member to the forepart between the shaping member and the sole portion of the moccasin bottom to hold the moccasin bottom in shaped condition on the form until a toe piece is secured to the moccasin bottom.

3. That method of making moccasins which comprises first shaping the forepart of a moccasin bottom on a form, then while the forepart is held against the form by the shaping means applying to the forepart a clamping means which engages the periphery of the forepart between the trimming line and the sole of the moccasin bottom and holds it against the form, then releasing the shaping means from the forepart of the moccasin, and trimming the forepart while it is held against the form by said clamping means.

4. That method of making moccasins which comprises mounting a moccasin bottom on a form the forepart of which has a conoidal peripheral surface, the extent of said surface heightwise of the form being greater than the height of the forepart of a completed moccasin, applying to the moccasin bottom on the form a forepart-shaping means, gripping the moccasin bottom tightly against the form with the -shap ing means to prevent any substantial relative movement heightwise of the form between the shaping means and the margin of the moccasin bottom, and moving the shaping means heightwise of the form to stretch the moccasin bottom about the form and shape it thereto.

5. That method of making moccasins which comprises 'mounting a moccasin bottom on a form the forepart of which has a conoidal peripheral surface, the extent of said surface heightwise of the form being greater than the height of the forepart of a completed moccasin, applying a flexible forepartembracing lasting member to the moccasin bottom on the form, and operating the lasting member to grip the moccasin bottom tightly against the form to prevent any substantial relative movement heightwise of the form between the shaping means and the margin of the moccasin bottom and to stretch the moccasin bottom about the form. I

6. That method of making moccasins which comprises positioning a moccasin bottom on a forepart shaping form having inwardly sloping sides which are straight heightwise of the form,

applying to the moccasin bottom on the form a forepart shaping means, and exerting a rearward tension on said shaping means thereby to cause said shaping means to grip the moccasin bottom tightly and to move upwardly over the inwardly-sloped sides of the form carrying the I gripped portion of the moccasin bottom with it to stretch the moccasin bottom over the form.

7. That method of making moccasins which comprises positioning a moccasin bottom on a forepart shaping form having inwardly sloping sides which are straight heightwise of the form, applying to the moccasin bottom on the form a flexible forepart-embracing lasting member, and pulling the said lasting member rearwardly to cause it to grip the moccasin bottom tightly against the form and with the gripped portion of the moccasin bottom to move upwardly over the inwardly-sloped sides of the form carrying the gripped portion of the moccasin bottom with it to tension the moccasin bottom heightwise of the form.

8. That method of shaping foreparts of moccasins which comprises positioning a moccasin bottom on a form the forepart of which has a conoidal peripheral surface, positioning the margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom against the periphery of the form, applying shaping means to the margin of the moccasin bottom at a position thereon near the bottom of the form, and drawing the shaping means rearwardly of the form thereby to cause it to grip the margin of the moccasin bottom against the form, then to travel heightwise of the form, carrying the moccasin bottom with it, and thus to work the moccasin bottom smoothly into engagement with the periphery of the forepart of the form.

9. That method of shaping foreparts of moccasins which comprises positioning a moccasin bottom on a form the forepart of which has a conoidal peripheral surface, positioning the margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom against the periphery of the form, applying a flexible shaping member to the margin of the moccasin bottom at a position thereon near the bottom of the form, drawing the flexible shaping member rearwardly of the form thereby to cause it to grip the margin of the moccasin bottom against the form, then to travel heightwise of the form, carrying the moccasin bottom with it, and thus to work the moccasin bottom smoothly into engagement with the periphery of the forepart of the form, and terminating the operative movement of said member with said member positioned at or in the immediate vicinity of the line on which the forepart of the moccasin bottom is trimmed to receive a toe piece.

10. That method of shaping foreparts of moccasins which comprises positioning a moccasin bottom on a form the forepart of which has a conoidal peripheral surface of substantially uniform gradient at the toe end, the extent of said surface heightwise of the form being greater than the height of the forepart of a completed moccasin, positioning the margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom against the periphery of the form, applying a flexible shaping member to the margin of the moccasin bottom at a position thereon near the bottom of the form, drawing the flexible shaping member rearwardly of the form thereby to cause it to grip the margin of the moccasin bottom against the form, then to travel heightwise of the form, carrying the moccasin bottom with it, and thus to work the moccasin bottom smoothly into engagement with the periphery of the forepart of the form, and after the shaping operation has been completed maintaining the tension of said member against the moccasin bottom thereby to hold it in shaped condition on the form, and applying a clamping member to that portion of the forepart of the moccasin bottom between the trimming line and the sole portion of the moccasin bottom.

11. That method of shaping foreparts of moccasins which comprises positioning a moccasin bottom on a form the forepart of which has a conoidal peripheral surface of substantially uniform gradient at the toe end, the extent of said surface heightwise of the form being greater ban the height of the forepart of a completed moccasin, positioning the margin of the forepart of the moccasin bottom against the periphery of the form, applying a shaping member to the margin of the moccasin bottom at a position thereon near the bottom of the form, drawing the shaping member rearwardly of the form thereby to cause it to grip the margin of the moccasin bottom against the form, then to travel heightwise of the form, carrying the moccasin bottom with it and thus to work the moccasin bottom smoothly into engagement with the periphery of the forepart of the form, gripping the forepart of the shaped moccasin bottom between the form and a clamping member, while the moccasin bottom is so gripped trimming the forepart, and in the course of the trimming operation guiding the trimming member against a guiding surface provided on the form.

12. That method of shaping foreparts of moccasins which comprises positioning a moccasin bottomon a form the forepart of which has a conoidal peripheral surface of substantially uniform gradient at the toe end, applying a flexible shaping member to the forepart of the moccasin bottom on the form, tensioning the flexible shaping member against the forepart of the moccasin bottom thereby gripping the moccasin bottom against the form and effecting movement of said member and the margin of the moccasin bottom heightwise of the form to work the moccasin bottom smoothly into engagement with the periphery of the form, thereafter completing the shaping of the forepart to the form by pulling side portions of the forepart heightwise of the form, and holding the forepart so shaped solely by 'the gripping action of the flexible shaping member.

13. That method of making moccasins which comprises providing a moccasin-shaping form the top of the forepart of which is removable to afford access to the inner surface of the margin of the forepart of a moccasin bottom thereon, shaping the forepart of a moccasin bottom on the form, gripping against the form that portion of the forepart between the trimming line and the sole of the moccasin, trimming the forepart, attaching a toe piece to the margin of the forepart while the forepart is still gripped against the form, and removing the top of the forepart during that interval between the gripping of the forepart against the form and the attachment of a toe piece to the forepart.

14. That method of making moccasins which comprises providing a form the top of the forepart of which is removable to afford access to the inner surface of the forepart of a moccasin bottom on the form, shaping the forepart of a moccasin bottom on the form, applying a clamp to the forepart of the moccasin bottom thereby to grip against the form that portion of the forepart between the trimming line and the sole of the moccasin, removing the top of the forepart of the form, then trimming the forepart of the moccasin bottom while employing the upper edge of the clamp as a trimming gage, and attaching a toe piece to the margin of the forepart while the forepart is still gripped against the form.

15. That method of making moccasins which comprises providing a form the top 'of the forepart of which is removable to afford access to the inner surface of the forepart of a moccasin bottom on the form, shaping the forepart of a moccasin bottom on the form, applying a clamp to the forepart of the moccasin bottom thereby to grip against the form that portion of the forepart between the trimming line and the sole of the moccasin, removing the top of the forepart of the form, then trimming the forepart of the moccasin bottom while employing the upper edge of the clamp as a trimming gage, and cement attaching a toe piece to the margin of the forepart edge to edge while the forepart is still gripped against the form.

16. That method of making moccasins which comprises applying shaping means to the forepart of a moccasin bottom on a form,'gripping against the form that portion of the forepart between the trimming line and the sole of the moccasin while the forepart is held against the form by the forepart-shaping means, releasing the forepart-shaping means, trimming the forepart so as to provide an undercut beveled edge face, providing a toe piece having an undercut beveled edge face, flanging the beveled margin of the toe piece to arrange its beveled edge face for attachment to the beveled edge face of the moccasin bottom, and attaching the toe piece to the moccasin bottom edge to edge while holding the forepart gripped against the form.

17. That method of making moccasins which comprises applying shaping means to the forepart of a moccasin bottom on a form, applying a clamping member to the forepart of the moccasin bottom thereby to grip against the form that portion of the forepart between the trimming line and the sole of the moccasin, securing the clamping member to the form, disengaging the shaping means from the moccasin bottom, and applying dry heat to the moccasin bottom while the clamping member remains on the form.

18. That method of making moccasins which comprises shaping the forepart of a moccasin bottom on a form, holding the shaped forepart against the form, providing a toe piece for closing the top of the forepart, cement-attaching the toe piece to the moccasin bottom at selected points only, removing the moccasin from the form, and thereafter completing the cement attachment of the toe piece to the moccasin bottom.

19. That method of making moccasins which comprises shaping the forepart of a moccasin bottom on a form, holding the shaped forepart against the form, providing a toe piece for closing the top of the forepart, flanging the margin of the toe piece, cement-attaching the edge face of the toe piece to the edge face of the moccasin bottom at three points only, namely at the forward end of the toe piece and at each end of the line of union of said parts, removing the moccasin from the form, and completing the cement attachment of the toe piece to the moccasin bottom.

20. That method of making moccasins which comprises shaping the forepart of a moccasin bottom on a form, providing a toe piece for closing the top of the forepart, trimming the forepart for the reception of the toe piece, applying adhesive cement to the edge face of the forepart and to the edge face of the toe piece, inserting a guard between the unattached portions of said cemented edge faces to prevent accidental contact of the cemented surfaces, attaching the toe piece to the forepart at selected points only, then removing the moccasin from the form, removing the guard, and completing the cement attachment of the toe piece to the moccasin bottom.

21. That method of making moccasins which comprises gripping the forepart of a moccasin bottom between an inner moccasin-shaping form and a clamp, while the moccasin bottom is so gripped trimming the forepart, and in the course of the trimming operation guiding the trimming member against guiding surfaces provided on the moccasin-shaping form and the clamp.

22. That method of making moccasins which comprises gripping the forepart of a moccasin bottom between an inner form and a clamp, while the moccasin bottom is so gripped trimming the forepart and in the course of the trimming operation guidirm the trimming member against a guiding surface provided on the form, and further guiding the trimming member against the upper edge of the clamp thereby to effect a predetermined orientation of the trimming member.

23. That method of making moccasins which comprises gripping the forepart of a shaped moccasin bottom between an inner moccasin-shaping form and a clamp, while the moccasin bottom is so gripped trimming the forepart and in the course of the trimming operation guiding the trimming member against guiding surfaces provided on the moccasin-shaping form and the clamp, securing a toe piece to the forepart of the moccasin bottom, removing the form and the clamp and completing the moccasin.

24. Clamping-members between which a moccasin bottom is intended to be secured in shaped condition during a trimming operation thereon, said clamping members comprising a form and a clamp, each of which is characterized by the provision thereon of a guiding surface for a trimming knife, said clamp being of such a height and being provided with means for so positioning it heightwise relatively to the form that a trimming knife guided and oriented by the guid-' ing surfaces of the form and the clamp cuts an inwardly beveled edge face on the moccasin bottom.

25. Clamping members for holding a moccasin bottom in shaped condition during a trimming operation thereon comprising a form provided with an inwardly-sloped surface for guiding a trimming knife, and a clamp having a knifeguiding surface, the clamp being of such a height and having means for so locating it relatively to the form that the guiidng surface of the clamp is in alinement with the beveled guiding surface of the form widthwise thereof.

26. A form for use in shaping the forepart of a moccasin bottom characterized by the provision of an inwardly-sloped guiding surface for positioning a trimming knife heightwise of the form and for orienting the trimming knife.

27. A form for use in shaping the forepart of a moccasin bottom characterized by the provision of a knife-guiding surface extending inwardly from the periphery of the form at an inclination toward the sole portion of'the form and extending about the toe end of the form and longitudinally of the form along opposite sides of the forepart.

28. A form for use in shaping the forepart of a moccasin bottom characterized by the provision of a guiding surface for positioning a trimming knife heightwise of the form, and a top piece removably mounted on said guiding surface, the side faces of the top piece being in heightwise alinement with the side faces of the form and cooperating with the side faces of said form to effect a single continuous surface which is straight heightwise of the form.

29. A form for use in shaping the forepart of a moccasin bottom characterized by the provision of a knife-guiding surface extending inwardly from the periphery of the form at an inclination toward the sole portion of the form and extending about the toe end of the form and longitudinally of the form along opposite sides of the forepart, and a removable top piece constructed and arranged to be mounted on said guiding surface, the periphery of said top piece being in alinement with the periphery of the form.

30. A form for use in shaping the forepart of a moccasin bottom, said form comprising a bottom piece having inwardly sloping side portions which are straight heightwise of the form and are of substantially uniform gradient at the toe end, and a removable top piece having inwardly sloped sides which are substantially a continuation of the sides of the bottom piece and form therewith a single continuous surface withoutheightwise curvature.

31. A form for use in shaping the forepart of a moccasin bottom, said form comprising a bottom piece of generally conoidal shape without heightwise curvature and having inwardly sloped side portions which are of uniform gradient at the toe end, and a removable top piece having inwardly sloped sides which are substantially a continuation of the sides of the bottom piece and form therewith a single continuous surface which is straight heightwise of the form.

FRED ASHWORTH. conwm W. BAKER.

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