US1145979A - Method of lasting boots and shoes. - Google Patents

Description

1. ALELDRIDGE METHOD or LASTING Boos AND sHoEs.

l APPLICATION FILED NOV. 2| 19H.

hmmm

Patented July. 13, i915.

mgl

l a/E/v 70H;

can be attached to it.

JOHN A. EBDRIDGE, DF AGTQN, MAINE, .ASSIGNOR T0 UNITED SHOE MACHNEEY COMPANY, 0F PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A. CORIPORATIG 0F NEW J' METHD F LASTJTG BDOTS ANH) SHOES.

Specieeton et Letters yatent.

Patented July 13, i915.

Application led November 2, 1912. Seralo. 658,154.

T 0 all ttf/mm 'it may concern:

Be it known that l, donn' A. Eisernen, a citizen of the United States, residing at Acton, in the county of York and State of Maine, have invented certain Im arovements in Methods of Lasting Boots an Shoes, of which the following description, in connec* tion with the accompanying drawings, isa. specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in. the several figures.

|This invention relates to methods of making shoes, and will be explained in connection with the manufactiiure that" type of shoe in which the inner edgel of the weltv is attached tothe upper withput also being attached to the innersole, asir'listinguished from the shoe made by the wellikuown welt system in which the inner edge of the welt is attached to the upper and to the innersole. The invention is in many important respects, however, applicable also to the manufacture of welt shoes, the outer edge of the welt being, in each case, attached to the outsole. lt has been customary, inthe manufacture of these shoes according to the prior art, to take the prepared upper and, without placing it upon a last, to attach a welt directly to its edge about the whole of its marginal portion, or about all except the heel portion, and then to placethe upper upon. alast and draw the upper in over the last, either by wipers which engage the upper iii the welt crease shown in United States Letters Patent to Ballon, No. 150,123,

or by a cord or other ligature .located in the Letters Patent to Littleton, No. 925,208,

.lune 15, 1909.

lt will be observed that inthis process the upper is not stretched in proportion to theamount of stretch or extensibility there is, in the particular' upper comprised in a given shoe or in different portions of the material of the same shoe, neither is it stretched in accordance with the requirements to. make it conform fully to the contour of the particular last over which it is being made. As distinguished from this the upper is simply stretched at all points alike and simply enough to position the welt where the sole This may have been satisfactory forty yea ago when lasts were more nearly regular in form than now and the usual upper leather was thick and much less extensible than that used at the present time. This method is not, however, adapted without substantial modifications to modern conditions in which a large amount of stretch, varying with each individual shoe and to some extent in different portions of the upper material of a single shoe, must be taken out of the upper and the upper must be drawn to tit the very irregular contour of present day lasts by drafting and detail tensioning of the upper. These lconditions make it impossible to predeterminethe proper location for the welt attaching seam 'edge of the last bottom as distinguished from establishing it with relation to the edge of the upper. The standards of [it and permanence of shape established in the Welt shoe demand this.

The above and other defects of the methoddisclosed in the prior art have been overcome by my improved method, a chief characteristic of which consists in forming the upper to the last and removing the stretch therefrom before the welt is attached.

The new method contemplates assembling the upper on the last and first drafting it lengthwise ofthe shoe, drawing it'over the toe end of the last, and clamping it upon the last transversely7 and dra wingit overl the sides of the last, and slightly backwardly, progressively from the toe toward the heel and preferably substantially simultaneously at the two sides of the shoe. This progressive manipulation from the toe rearwardly accomplishes what is termed back drafting. The initial drafting of the upper forwardly in line with the toe that draws the upper down the instep of lthe last and this, followed by .the back drafting along the sides, gives the upper the most desirable fit over the instep and down under the shank portion of the foot. I prefer to hold the upper in a substantially con-l tinuous line along the sides of the shoe and around the toeJ withpa downwardly and in wardly directed force, as for example, by suitably shaped sectional clamps or Wipers that bear on a narrow line only. My

method thus involves not only an initial inwiping of the Whole side portions of the upper as just described,` but the pressing or clamping of it down upon the last from the toe along both sides to the heel seat, and the retention of the upper. frictionally in place during subsequent lasting an/- welt vattachingoperations-` IThese further lasting operatns-may.-.involve seizing and pulling the upperaat one point after another along the edge of the shoe to draft it to conform the upper iii/"detail, to the last contour at all points and take out the stretch evenly vfrom the conformed upper. upper is preferably drawn in beneath the clamping plates which will act to hold it in -place by their inward and downward pressure. The upper is thus held in lasted posi- 2o tion vwithout the use of tacks or other Vupper- -penetrating securing means and without the use of cement. o

A further important step -in my method includes attaching the welt-to the upper at 25,a measured distance from/the edge .o f the shoe. This is d one after the upper has been ,Y fully conformed to the last and While the upper i's'still clamped in pulled over and lasted position-in the manner described. I preferably use asa guide `for this purpose the clamps or wipers which are of uniform width and are advanced over the edge of the last a measured distance and extend vabove the entireportion of the periphery of the last bottom along which the Welt is to be attached to the upper. Preferably, but not necessarily, I stretch the upper of the forepart of the shoe again and to a further degree after'it has been lasted andthe welt attached. This furtheror inal stretching as"- distinguished v-fr'om the preliminary stretching practiced beforerthe welt is atf tached, may be effected either before or after f the outsole of the shoe has been sewed to the Awelt. It is important in either case` that it Lbe donewhile the edge portion of the upper is 4heldzivby the.. clamps or other .mechanical `prevent.overstraining the seams. I er'ghoweyerffft "dq-it before the@ outsole attached and inf doing to accomplish van additional result by pulling the upper against the thin, shaped edges of the clamps, which at this time. shallv occupy the welt 'crease or thin `angular space between the welt and upper, and'thereby impart a predetermined and regular shape to the welt crease of the shoe to add toits attractive appearance. Preferably the direction of this.

final stretching of the upper is, at the instep of the shoe, substantially perpendicular to the top face of the instep portion of the last. For this purpose I press the. upper from within the shoe outwardly. over the instep v and both upwardly and forwardly. This .65, extension of the shoe upper `from the shank In so doing the.

`toward the instep' makes the shoe fit better"- to applying stretching force at the edge of.

the vamp, as usual, the stretch can be more thoroughly talenout of the upper. I find that this step in hay method of makingvshoes prevents the shoe from becoming baggy i n the shank during wear as so many shoes do become because of the factthat the quarters stretch over the instep. I prefer to produce this finalV stretching in increasing degree from the top of the ball backwardly up the instep. This is obtained in a convenient manner by pivoting at its forward end an appropriately shaped instep block or similarV 'part of the lastand tipping said block l upon its-pivot. Of course in practising this step of this invention account will be taken in selection of the size and shape of the last of this final stretching of the upper with the object in view to produce a shoe which by this final stretching will be made of the required size and proportions. It will be noted that the expansion of the upper is greatest over the instep where the length of the stock to be stretched is greatest and gradually diminishes toward the toe', where the amount of stretch to b e removed is least. Hence, a substantially uniform inal tensioning effect is obtained in the parts ofthe upper where a good fit is most importanti and where the re- -moval of the stretchof the leather is most necessary." After the attachment of the .-\velt, the inseam is filled with cork or other filling placed in the cavity inclosed` by thc -welt seam, cement is applied to the Welt and the outsoleis applied and pressed in place. After the cement has been allowed to set, the outsole is attached to the welt bythe cuspart of the shoe and may-be made of very thm stock. If the shoe is to be provided tomary process of outsole stitching, afs inthe with a wooden heel, however, the screw by which the heel is attached may be passed through the innersole, or, if the heel is nailed on, the' attaching 4nails may bc clenched through it to hold itin place. ln either case the innersole may be provided lwith a metallic heel plate preferably at- 'tached'to the innersole by tangs formed along the edge of the plate which is parallel with the heel breast and clenched through the innersole to hold the plate thereupon.

' The positioning of the innersole upon the is feature of my method and involves irif'fv the'heel portion of the innersole di .il cement 'in its own plane witha the disgilacement thereoi:l in a from the last. rlhis is ac- .-1 y y the prr'ivision of a pin. or stud located preferahly in the center of the l seat and the provision of a correspondloci` ed hole in the heel portion of the piaci g the hole in the innerr i i innersole is located in oper position longitudinally of the and the forward portion of the innerwill naturally assume its proper posilaterally of the last when the upperl is in from the vopposite sides. It is lil; .wise a feature oi my invention to dene the position of the outsole longilly of 'the shoe in a manner similar to r. ny which the innersole is located. To accomplish this, the outsole may be provided with a hole placed similarlyto that in the innersole and adapted to engage the same pin projecting upwardfrom the last. l prelfer to have this pin project up through the last post and last and to provide means for retracting it when desired. The mechanism for perrormiug this function is, however, disclosed in my patent hereinafter referred to. The positioning lpin may form part of the last itself, being `formed as a its stud set into the wood of the. 'heel of the last, or as a projection formed upon the metallic heel plate of the last when. a heel 3f-' plate is used. The longitudinal position of the outsole relatively to the last is determined hy' placing the hole in the heel portion thereof over the pin of the last and the r yeral position, of its forward portion relaiv ly to last is easily and quickly determined, with sulicient accuracy, by the sense touch of the operators lingers when placedunder the projecting'margin of the Joutsole against the sides of the shoe.-

fi further iieature of my improved method relates to heating the toe cap portion of the shoe during the operation of lasting. lt is usual, inorder to produce a box l toe lwhich will permanently retain theshape, cf

5l-l the toe portion of the last, to make the 'toe portion 'of 'the upper of several thicknes es of leather and canvas with an adhesive between the layers. 'lille adhesive is usually applied linst before the upper is assembied upon vthe last and dees not set -until after the cou'ipletion of the lasting operation. lt is desirable, however, to have ,the adhesive set as soon as possible afterlasting thereof. yThe heating device comprises a suitable resistance preferably inserted into the body of the toe rest and provided with suitable means for attaching thereto the terminals' of an electric circuit for supplying electrical energy to the coil.

The invention will be more fully eX- plained in the following description, reference Ibeing had to the accompanying drawings in which various steps ot' my improved method are illustrated together with convenient apparatus by the` use of which the invention may be practised. The apparatus', however, is not herein claimed but is made the subject-matter of United States Letters Patent No. 1,110,315, granted to me September 15, 19142 l In the drawings, Figure 1 is a perspective View, partly insect-ion, showing a last of a type adapted for use in the practice of my improved method, having an innersole assembled thereon and positioned at the heel portion in accordance with my method. The sectioned portions show the heel pin and sole locating pin of the lasting apparatus; Fig..2 is a prespective View showing an innrsole and an upper assembled upon the last, the upper being tensioned longitudinally; Fig. 3 is a perspective view showing the lupper being held in the tensioned position, assumed in Fig. 2, by meansfof a wiper brought 'in over the edge of the'last at the extreme toe and the upper about to be wiped iin along the sides by the side wipers; Figa is a perspective"I view showing the position assumed-by the upper after the inwiping and `loackdratting loperation which is effected bythe side wipers, and also the de\tail lasting of thc upper locally by'hand pincers; Fig. 5 'is a perspective view showing the shoe in process of having vthe welt secured to the margin of upper which extends beyond the wiper; Fig. 6 is a perspective view partly in section of the shoe with the welt attached and ready for the heel seat to be lasted. The last is shown expanded for applying final tension to the lasted' upper; Fig. 7 is a perspective View, partly in section, showing the shoe completed, a portion of the channel Vlip being yraised to show 'the stitchesattaching the outsole and welt and the sectioned portion exhibiting the heel plate on the innersole and the manner of attaching the heel.

In the practice of my improved method an inner-sole and an upper are placed upon an ordinary last or, preferably, upon one of the kind illustrated in Fig. 1, and' the .last positioned upon the heel pin 2 of the lasting apparatus which may have, as shown in Fig.

l, a sole locating pin i mounted. in it and .v ln'ojeffng through a hole in the last. The

pin l when extended is adapted to pass through a suitably located holein the heel portion, 'of the innersole or sole to positively locate the same and prevent displacement thereof in the plane `of the last bottom. Whenldesired the locating pin 4 maybe retracted by means not hreinshown but fully disclosed in thepatent above referred to. After the innersole and upper Vare assembled upon the last; an( the innersole located as described, the usual assembling tacksmay be driven, if desired, into the rear face ot the heel portion or into the heel Seat -to hold the 'upper in proper peripheral relatie Ato the last.' The upper may next bedrated longitudinally as illustrated in Fig..2 by means of hand pincers (S or otherwise. This longitudinal drafting Vremoves the folds of the upper'` and gives an oppor- Atunity for locating the toe portion oi' the upper relatively to the longitudinal axis of the last. While the upper still held under Vta-ched is moved toward the last and made to Wipe in over thelast edge and to hold the 4upper under longitudinal-tension, the toeI meanwhile'being supported upon the toe post 16s. `The shoe is nowin the condition illus- K, trated in Fig.v 3 ready for the wiper plates to 'becactuatecb preferably simultaneously, to

f so

progressively wipe in the upperfrom the toe portion toward the shank and to press the same into lasted position upon the iiiners'ole upon the last bottom. The lasting plates are not only of resilient material themselves. but are resiliently depressed at the shank portions bysprings 22 and therefore apply a `substantially uniform Aresilient pressure throughout their length to hold the upper frictionally in lasted engagement with lthe. inner-sole and last. The wiper plates rearward ycomponent oi movement. so .that

the upper during the inwipingthereof will 'be subjected toa backdrawing action of the plates. The excessive wrinkling and .fullp ness usually present about the toe portion is thuspre\'ented by the action of the plates in working `the fullness rearwardly toward the shank portion where it may be taken up by the' subsequent wiping in of the ends of the wiper plates over this portion of the shoe.' The direction of the wiping move-v ment at the toe portion is oblique to the direction of the last edge and becomes more and more nearly perpendicular as the shank portionpis approached. The lmckdrawing effect is therefore greatest at the toe portion where there is most fullness and gradually diminishes toward the shank portion where only a perpendicular movement of the Wiper is'cdesired. lThe attaching of the welt, as

` shown in Fig. 5, is the next step in the practice of my improved method, and the welt may be secured to the inwardly projecting marginal portion ot the upper either by` hand or by a machine, the inner face of the wiping plates being preferably employed as a gage or guide for determining the location of the seam, as indicated. During the attachment of the welt is a convenient time for -the application of heat to the toe pad to tension longitudinally,` the'post 10 carrying a plate'12 to which the wipers 14 are at-' assembling tack in the usual manner.

the upper.

extended or expanded position.

set the adhesive between the layers forming the box toe but it may, it desired, be applied during the entire. lasting operation or any part thereof. The inseam may now he trimmed oil", the lieel seat lasted,a filling-inserted in the space inclosed by the Welt seam, an outsole applied and attached to the welt and the shoe completed in the usual manner.

yMy improved method as above described may, with advantage, be practised in lasting shoes upon lasts of usual construction, the innersole, in that case being located bv the prefer; however, to employ a last which is capable of being expanded to apply tension to Such a last is indicated in Figs. 1 and (i. 'It has an instep portion 22 hinged to the base portion 24 of the lastl at a point near the toe. The last is provided with side vplates 26 which prevent lateral play of the swinging portion. In the swinging or instep portion 22 of the lastis pivoted a lever 28 which. may be turned into the position` shown i-n Fig. 6 to expandthe last and act as v a prop for sustaining' the instep portion in mechanism, fully disclosed in my patent above referred to, is provided on the lasting jack for nianipnlatingtlie lever to4 effect the expansion of the last at the proper time in the lastingoperation.

In lasting shoes by my methodupon the expansible last, the procedure is the same as that above described up to and vincluding the attachment of the welt to the upper, the

last being, during these steps, in collapsed condition. Inlasting the upper over 'the collapsed last by means of the wipers, the

action of which may be supplemented if .de-`

sired by the use of hand pincers forl draw-i ing portions oj the upper under the wipers 'to tensionthe same and to remove the slack As the movable p'prtionl Suitable step is 'longer than that extending'over the ball and 'over the toe, and hence requires a 'greatermovement of the pivoted portion of the last ,to remove the stretch therefrom to the same'l extent asfrom the other portions and apply thereto an equal final tension, the Vamount of stretch to be removed and the 'amount of movement of the pivoted portion of the last progressively diminishing toward the toel By the expansion of the last,

therefore, a lsubstantially uniform final ten` sion is applied to the forepart of ytheupper where close conformity of the upper to the shape of the last is important in a well-made shoe. The application of this final tension to the upper serves also to draw back the upper slightly and crowd the welt seam against the wiper edges, and hence to position it uniformly from the edge of the last.'

Heat having been applied during all or a portion of the above operations, the remaining steps necessary for the completion of the shoe may be immediately taken and coml prise the trimming ofthe inseam ;Y the filling $64 up vof the space inclosed by the inseam, which, however, may be providedl for by a pad attached to theinnersole; the lasting of the heel seat; andpthe attachment of the outsole and heel. The method of locating the outsole, however, comprises a feature of my invention and may be accomplished by means similar to that described" in locating the innersole. The outsole is provided with a hole through its heel seat adapted to be located over 'the locating pin extending above the heel seat of the last. This serves to locate the sole longitudinally of the last and to locate the heel portion thereof laterally of the last. The operator may readily position the forepart of the sole by placing his lingers undei` the edge of the sole upon v each side and against the side of the last.` Cement is usually applied to the welt to hold the outsolegin position during theattachment thereof to the welt, which is'done` in the usual manner upon the outsole stitching machine. The heel may now be attached in the usual manner or, in the case of wooden heels, a screw 30 may be passed through the holes formed in the innersole and outsole andl into the wooden heel, as is clearly shown in Fig. 7. In attaching heels in this manner it is preferable to employ a metallic plat/e 'clenched through the innersole.

I said attaching line and last edge in having a collar 42 set into the material of the heel seat of the last.

Having describedmy invention, what l claim as new and desire to 'secure by Letters Patent of the United States is 1. That improvement in methods' of making shoes which consists in lastingi the upper over and down upon the innersole, se-

, curing a welt by stitches to the upper only whilethe upper remains in lasted position upon the innersole, and' then completing the shoe.

2. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in wiping an upper over the bottom of a last into. lasted position, applying preliminary tension to the upper, securing the welt to the upper, While the upper is in lasted position, at a uniform distance inwardly from the edge of the last bottom, and then applying final ten' sionV to the upper and completing the shoe.

3. vThat improvement in methods 'of makf ing shoes which consists in tensioning an upper about a last, laying it in lasted position `upon vthe innersole, securing a welt to the `upper along a line located ata substantially V'uniform distance inwardly from the last edge while the upper is still held in lasted positionapplying final tension to the upper while the portion to which the welt is attached isheld from movement, and -then completing -theshoe in the usual manner.

4, That improvement in methods of I'naki .ing shoes which consists in shaping an upper to a last, temporarily securing the same by clamping pressure applied to .a portion of the margin of the upper and against the peripheral margin of the sole bottom leav- 'ing the extreme edge of the upper free or lnriclamp'ed7 sewing a welt to the unclamped portion of the margin of the upper only while ythe clamped portion'remains clamped, trimming the inseam, applying a filling inside the inseam, and then sewing an outsole to the outer margin of the welt.. n

That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in stretching an up- .y I

lper over a last, clamping the margin thereof against the last bottom, placing all parts.

of upper under substantially uniform preliminary tension, attaching the welt to the upper along a line parallel with the last edge while the clamped portion of the upper remains invclamped position, subjecting the upper to final tension while maintaining parallelism, and then completing the shoe.

6. Thatimprovement in. methods of malo' ing shoes which consists `yin shaping an upper about a last having an` instep dimension leesthan that of they nished shoe, securing the upper friction'ally against the periph eral portion of the last bottom in lasted position and under preliminary tension, s e-' curing a' welt to .the marginvof the upper while the said margin is held in lasted position against the inner sole, subjecting the upper to inal tension by increasing the instep dimension of the last, and then complet- 5 ing the shoe. j

7. Thatimprovement in' methods-of making shoes which consists in applying an upf per to a last, clamping the upper` against the peripheral portion of the innersole,ap

' 10 plying preliminary tensionto the upper and' tting it to the last by drawing it under the clamping means, securingia welt to the mar-. lginal portion'of the Aupper while' the upper is still clamped,' using the inner vedgeof i5 the' clamping means as a guide, applying final tension to the upper by expanding the 1 last, andvthen attaching the outsole to the 'Twelt. A v 8. That improvement in methods of mak- '20 ingshoes which consists in 'drawing agruprper about a last, lasting down -the margin of jthe upper upon the marginal portion of the last bottom, removing fullness from the up- 'I Qn per by further stretching portions thereof,

attaching a welt to the upper Yabout the inner edge of the margin laid down upon the last, further tensionin the upper as a whole to draw back the we t seam from the last edge while'restraining movement. of the Welt SQseam by pressure.l applied in the' welt crease,

and finishing the shoe, substantially as described;v

9. That improvement infmethodsof maky ing shoes which consists in`placi ngan innersole'upon :L1-last, securingit against' longitudinal movement and 'lateral mov fent at the heel, assembling an upper on t st, wiping over all parts of the margin .portion of therupper to which the welt is to be yattached 40 beginning with the toe and extending along `the opposite sides progressively andl simultaneously, holding the portion of the upper "l to be covered bythe welt against the innery. sole o n the last, sewing va welt to the upperA 1 4'5'along the inner margin of the said portion of the upper while it is still held against the innersole, lasting the heel seat, trimming the inseam, filling the space inside the inseam,

'applying the outsole, and securing it to the welt.

v 10. Thatv improvement in methodsof mak- A- ing shoes which consists in placing an upper upon a last, draftingthe upper first longitudinally, clamping the upper against the innersole at the end of the toe to hold the tension applied, backdrafting the upper at both sides Lof the toe by wiping movements l f that are oblique to the sole edge, and then.`

' completing the shoe.` I 6.0 11. That improvement in methods'o'fl making` shoeswhich consists in placing an upper upon a last, drafting the upper first longitudinally, clamping the upper against the'innersole at the toe to hold the'tension applied, backdrafting the upperlgjat both sides of thev toe by wiping movements oblique to the sole edge, applying heat to the toel portion of the upper simultaneously `with the lasting operation, and then cpmpleting the shoe.4

12. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists'in placing an u pper upon a last,` drafting the upper longitudinally, clamping the .upper against thel innersole at the end of the toe, backdrait- 75 ing the upper at both sides of `the shoe by inward wiping movements having a compo'nent of movement 'toward the heel, and

th'en attaching a welt to; the margin of the upper While the upper is maintained frictinally'in place; f

' 13. "lhat improvement inmethods of malr- .v ing shoes which consists in placing an upper upon a last, drafting the upper first longitudinally, clamping. theupper at the" end of the toeto maintain the longitudinal tension, continuing lthe* lasting 'operation progressively and simultaneously upon both sides of the shoe toward theheel by wiping in 'successive points by movement of the 90 wiping means obliquely tothe last ed e at the'toe portion and more nearly perpen icularly at the ball portions land by pressure applied perpendicularlyto the last bottom, heating` the toe portion oftheshoe during the lasting operation, and then completing theshoe.,4 v 'f y' 14. That improvementin methods of making'shoes which consists inI assembling an unwelted upper andan innersole upon e100 la st,drai`ting` the upper over the toe, seizuring it by clamping pressureyapplied to the toe end of the bottom of the innersole, wiping in the sides of the upper upon the bot#A tom of the innersole from the toe rear-1.105 wardly by a backwardly, inwardly and'. downwardly applied pressure, securing thewiped-in portion by clamping pressure, then lasting the upper in detail'by tensioning pulls applied locally at the inner margin 110.

of the upper, securing a welt'to the upper 4while it is still clamped a ainst the bottom of the inners'ole, and comp eting the shoe.

" 15. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists .in assembling an upper and insole upon a last, drawing the' -upper overl the toe and and securing it' by Adownwardly applied clamping clamping pressure, daiwing the upper in .In testimony whereof I have signed my over the sides in a direction oblique to the name to this specification in the presence of 1u tncliing a, welt to the innerunnrgin of the lust edge und temporarily securing 'the uptwo subscribing Witnesses. per by non-upper-penetrating means, at- JOHN A ELDRIDGE upper only, applying a substantially uni- Witnesses:

form final tension to the upper,A and then CHARLES Ai L'fnrnlla'wnmg,A completing the shoe. l FonnEsT L. MARSH.

Images