US1706504A - Art of making shoes - Google Patents

Description

March '26, 1929. E, WARREQ 1,706,504

ART OF MAKING SHOES Filed June 11, 1921 ll Sheets-Sheet 1 March 1929- s. E. WARREN ART OF MAKING SHOES Filed June 11, 1921 ll Sheets-Sheet 2 March 26, 1929. W R 1,706,504

ART OF MAKING SHOES Filed Jung 11, 1921 1.1 Sheets-Sheet 5 March 26, 1929. 3 WARREN 1,706,504

7 ART OF MAKING SHOES Filed June 11, 1921 11 sheets sneet 4 /NI/E/VTUR March 26, 1929. 5, WARREN 1,706,504

ART OF MAKING SHOES Filed June 11, 1921 ll Sheets-Sheet March 26, 1929. e. E. WARREN ART OF MAKING SHOES Filed June 11, 1921 ll Sheets-Sheet 6 March 26, 1929. E, WAR N 1,706,504

ART OF MAKING sHoEs I Filed June 11, 1921 ll Sheets-Sheet 7 v i /Nl ENTUA q 4m Fig.28; 6 K

March 26, 1929. WARREN 1,706,504

ART OF MAKING SHOES Filed June 11, 1921 13 Sheets-Sheet 8 g 250 /2?0 'iiH g r f F r n\\\\\"lkw 282 35 28] 74 277 mmmm F1g32 Fig. 31.

Mil/ENTER- I March 26, 1929. G. E. WARREN ART OF MAKING SHOES l1. Sheets-Sheet Filed June 11, 1921 G. E. WARREN ART 0; MAKING SHOES March 26, 1929.

Filed June 11, 1921 ll Sheets-Sheet I0 March 26, 1929. E, WARREN 1,706,504

ART OF MAKING SHOES Filed June 11, 1921 ll Sheets-Sheet ll.

1 made in shoemaking,

Patented Mar. 26, 1929..

GEQRGE E. WARREN,

E SWAMPSCOTT, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, PATERSO N, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

Application filed June 11,

This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes. An important general object of the invention is to provide a method by which to effect in shoemaking radical and far-reaching economies and by which to produce at the same time shoes of uniformly excellent quality.

It is peculiarly characteristic of shoe manufacture that success in the performance of 1 each of a great number of distinctly different and complicated operations involved in the making of a shoe is. dependent upon the proper performance of earlier operations. Also, notwithstanding the striking advances especially during the last two decades, it nevertheless is still conspicuously true that shoemaking involves many operations which absolutely require and depend for success upon the exercise of great skill, care and judgment by the workmen. It follows that under present conditions the manufacture of shoes necessarily entails a heavy labor cost. Furthermore, even under the most favorable manufacturing conditions and with the exercise of the greatest skill and care obtainable from thoroughlyf'competent workmen, shoemaking operations are frequently performed inaccurately so that one or more of the later operations in the manufacture of a given shoe are rendered difficult or impossible of satisfactory performance, often resulting in damaged or crippled shoes requiring expensive repairs to correct the damage, so far as it can be corrected. In many instances, failure to perform various shoemaking operations successfully may be traced directly to failure 1 on the part of workmen to locate or position shoes or shoe parts properly for one or more 40 operations, such locating in many cases being determined largely by the eyes or fingers of the workmen. Such errorsin location are especially serious in that they are typical of errorswhich may have a cumulative effect as the shoes go through the factory and result in damaged or unsalable shoes. 4

In view of the above-named and other conditions, a striking characteristic of the present invention consists in provision for standardization of shoe parts and shoemaking operations. In one important as'pectthis is accomplished by procedure, in the preparation, assembling and treatment of shoe parts or units, which may be conveniently, and is ART OF MAKING SHOES.

1921. Serial No. 476,659.

herein frequently, termed jigging, to position the parts or units in predetermined relation to each other or to means for operating upon them. That is to say, as herein exemplified, units of a shoe are each provided with one or more positioningv surfaces. bearing a predetermined relation to the contour or some other characteristicthereof. Such surfaces are or may be used to control the positions of the units in preparing or shaping the units separately, and such surfaces are utilized to control the positions of the units in predetermined relations to each other in making the shoe. This provides for the reparation of standardized, interchangeab e parts or units which may be separately accumulated', if desired, and for utilizing those units in the making of shoes quickly, accurately and uniformly and without requiring any substan ial skill. K

Important results of such standardization are that successive shoemakin operations are each performed so accurate y as to repare the shoe parts or the shoes in the est manner for the satisfactory performance of later operations, and uniformity of the shoemaking operations and cons uent uniformity of the product are insure at greatl reduced labor cost. The reduction of the abor cost is largely due to the fact that skilled labor may be reduced to a minimum in the manufacture of shoes. Moreover, while many of the striking advantages and economies of the present invention may be otherwise obtained, the shoe making procedure herein set forth lends itself readily to extensive' use of automatic machinery. The present invention also effects great economies in shoe materials, particularly in leather, be cause its use minimizes the waste which results, under present shoemaking methods, to a large extent from the necessity of'cutting various shoe parts substantially larger than they are ultimately to be'in order to allow for errorsand adjustments by the workmen.

In another aspect, the invention provides for great economies in the expense necessary ,for lasts and other equipment. Under the present practice, shoe parts are assembled on .the lasts early in the manufacture of the shoes, and the shoes remain upon the lasts substantially throughout the shoemaking. Moreovenas shoes are now made, it is gencrally necessary to allow considerable time the lasts, shoe racks and other equipment.

- used for cutting it out from a skin and also at tion; a

For the purpose, among others, of effecting economies in these respects, the present invention provides for carrying the preparation and assembling of shoe units to an. advanced stage before the introduction of the last. As herein exemplified, minor shoe units are assembled into a comparatively few major units, and the shaping of various units as required for thefinished shoe is largely completed before the units are mounted on the last, thus greatly reducing the length of time the shoes must remain upon their lasts.

The general nature and purpose of the invention having been thus indicated, it will now be described in. detail by reference to the accompanying drawings and will then be .de,

fined in the appended claims.

In the drawings, which illustrate diagrammatically successive steps in the preparation of the several units and in the assembly thereof to complete the shoe and whichillustrate also diagrammatically certain devices or ap paratus which may be utilized for performing these steps,

Fig. 1 is a view in perspective of a vamp of a shoe upper and of a die which may be the same time punching jig holes and forming slits in the vamp in accordance withthe preferred manner of practicing the inven- Fig. 2 is a similar view of the tip of a shoe and of a portion ofthe vamp, showing .cer-

tain of the devices by which these parts of the upper are located in precise predetermined relation and then permanently stitched together while so-located;

Fig. 3is a similar view of the upper and of certain of the devices which may be utilized in closing it, that is to say, in stitching the two sides of the vamp together at the back;

Fig. 4 isa'view in perspective illustrating the step ofmolding the ribbed layer of an irisoledof the type which is preferably em- P oye Fig. 5 is a similar view of the insole after its several layers have been permanently secured together; 1

Fig. .6 is a sectional elevation of the insole,

and certain of the devices which may be utilized for trimming its margin and punching jig holes at its heel end;

Fig. 7 is-a perspective view of the finished insole;

. manently secured together;

Fig. 8 is a similar view of a molded counter ready to be assembled in the shoe;

Fig. 9 is a sectional elevation of a heel reinforce orplateshowing also certain devices which may be utilized in shaping and punchmg 1t Fig: 10 is a perspective view of the finished heel reinforce;

Fig. '11 is a similar view of the upper and I of certain devices which may be utilized in presenting it to a'machine for molding the toe of the upper;

Fig. 12 is a sectional elevation of the toe Fig. 14: is a plan view of the same parts and .of the counter andupper being assembled therewith Fig. 15 is a perspective view illustrating a portion of said heel molding machine includcurately and without substantial skill with relation to the insole and to the molding instrumentalities F ig. 16 is a perspective view showing the connected upper and insole with the toe and heel of the upper molded substantially to the shapes which they are to have in the shoe when finished;

- 'ing devices by which the upper is located ac- Fig. 17 is a similar view of a short outsole and of a die by which it ma be cut out;

Fig. 18 is a similar view 0 the rear end of the outsole and of certain devices which may be utilized in punching a jig hole in the desired location therein;

Fig. 19 is a similar view illustrating the step of molding the outsole;

Fig. 20-is a similar view illustrating the step of trimming the outsole to substantially its final edge contour;

Fig. 21 is a similar view of the outsole and l of certain devices which may be utilized in shaping the shank and rear portions thereof; Fig. 22 is a plan view of a jig which may be utilized in presenting the outsole in predetermined relation to saidshaping devices;

Fig. 23 is a perspective view of the elements of the outsole unit before the are per- Fig. 24 is a similar view of the completed unit- Fig. 25 is an exploded View in sectional elevation showing the lifts of the heel arranged in the desired transverse relation just before they are to be built into a complete heel blank or body;

Fig. 26 is a sectional elevation illustrating I these lifts, except the toplift, pressed together with building nails about to be driven thereinto;

Fig. 27 is a similar view with the nails driven and with the toplift spanked over the upper ends of the nails;

Figs. 28 and 29 are similar views of the heel and of apparatus which may be utilized in punching jig holes therein;

Fig. 30 isa perspective View of the heel at the stage in its preparation represented in Fig. 29';

Figs. 31 and 32 are two views in sectional elevation illustrating successive steps inthe slugging of the heel;

Fig. 33 is a similar view illustrating the step of trimming and brea'sting the heel;

Fig. 34 is a similar view illustratingthe heel while being finally compressed;

Fig. 35 is a perspective view of the complete heel ready for attachment to the shoe;

Fig. 36 is a sectional elevation of the shoe unit shown in Fig. 16 with a two part last partially inserted therein;

Fig. 37 is a similar View showing the last fully inserted, its two parts being locked together;

Fig. 38' is a sectional elevation of the as,- sembled shoe and last illustrating the step of side lasting;

Fig. 39is a detail view in perspective showing the seam by which'the upper is secured to the insole during such lasting;

Fig. 40 is a perspective View of the shoe after the side lasting is completed;

Fig. 41 is a similar view of the shoe after the welting operation and after a part of the inseam has been trimmed;

Fig. 42 is a sectional elevation illustrating the step of stitching the outsole to the welt after the outsole *unit has been assembled upon the shoe;

Fig. 48 is a similar view illustrating the step of leveling the sole;

Fig. 44 is a perspective view illustrating the steps of butting the Welt and outsole of the shoe;

Fig. 45 is a similar view of the shoe immediately after said butting operation;

Fig. 46 is a sectional elevationillustrating the step of permanently attaching the complete heel to the shoe shown in Fig.45';

Fig. 47 is a perspective view illustrating a step in the finishing of the heel;

' Fig. 48 is a sectional plan on the line AA, 46, showing the joint between the heel, outsole unit and welt;

Fig. 49 is an inverted plan, showing the relative location of the several kinds of fastenings at the heel end of the shoe;

Fig. 50 is a side elevation of the shoe when finished.

y The invention is herein exemplified with special reference to the manufacture of Goodyear welt shoes which are generally recognized as the best type of shoes made but it is to be understood that, in various aspects, the invention is not limited in its application to welt shoes or to any other particular types of shoes.

a As the invention is herein described by way of illustration, the insoles are made exact and uniform insize and shape and also in the manufacturing processes thereon carried to an advanced stage before attachment to the shoes. For each shoe, 'a set'of these arts as distinct units, viz, an upper and insolii, preferably secured together, an outsole unit and a heel are assembled and permanently incorporated in the shoe. Such assembling, according to that method of practising the invention which is nowconsidered best, is per-v formed upon a divided collapsible last which may be expanded slightly to stretch the upper and the rear part of which may be removed when, as is contemplated, the heel is to be attilched by nails driven from the inside of the s 106.

To facilitate'speed and accuracy in preparing the units, in assembling these units on the last 'or other suitable support,- and'in the further manufacture of the shoe,'the invention makes special provision, as has already been indicated, for the jigging of the parts and units with relation to one another and with I tate the preliminary manufacturing of said units with accuracy. As another illustration, different partsof the upper are preferably provided with complementary positioning surfaces, which advantageously may be in the form of jig holes within the margin of the upper and which are utilized for correctly locating the parts not only with relation to each other but also for shaping, molding, or otherwise operating upon the parts.

Referring now to the preferred manner of practicing the complete method of making shoes which is the subject'of this application and ccrtain'steps of whichare illustrated in the accompanying drawings, apparatus which may conveniently be utilized in performing such steps is shown, but only more OI lESS diagrammatically or conventionally because the apparatus itself forms no part of ticular apparatus and, indeed, may be per formed largely by hand with the aid of simple apparatus, such as molds, yet the pres ent invention is particularly adapted for use in connection with automatic machinery as will be further explained.

Thesteps of preparing the several major or principal units of the shoe before they are mounted on the manufacturing last will now be described.

Beginning with the preparation of the upper, the assembled upper materials,

., that it is died (fut from the skin,

commonly referred to herein and in the shoe trade as the upper, may comprise the ordinary elements including, for example, the leather or clotlr upper itself, the lining, and usually also a counter and a box toe of the ordinary or any suitable type. It is contemplated that when a box toe is used it will be of that common type which is readilTsoftened by heat and, which hardens quickly as it cools. Such a box toe while soft and moldable is preferably inserted between the tip and lining of the upper after which the entire toe will be molded to substantially its final shape in the manner shortly to be described.

The upper proper and the lining may be died out nearer to its final outline than has been previously the practice largely because of the fact that. both the toe and heel are molded. The upper l shown in the drawings includes a full vamp 2 which is provided, as shown in Fig. 1, with one pair of jig holes 4 adjacent to both its tip line and its margin and also with two pairs of similar jig holes 6 near its rear end-.j. The upper comprises also a tip 8 (Fig. 2) having a pair of jig holes 10 to match the jig holes 4 and may also include a top 12, as shown in Fig. 16, which is sewn to the vamp in any usual or suitable manner. If preferred, the front of the vamp may be cut with extensions or tabs 14, as indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 1, and the jig holes 4 may be formed therein so that the, holes shall bei substantially forward of the location w ierethe tip seamis to be stitched, as will be explaine As illustrated in Fig. 1, the jig holes 4 and Gare formed in the vamp 2 at the same time the vamp die 16 being provided with suitable punches 18 for that purpose, with the result that these holes are located in exact predetermined relation to the periphery of the vamp. The jig holes-1Q are preferably located in the tip 8 in a similar manner at the time thatit is died out.

of the particular shoe to be manufactured having been selected, the locations of. the jig holes, such as 4, 6 and 10, and of the slits such as 20in the u per, are determined by the designer not on y with relation to each other and to the pattern, or shape, of the upper but also with relation to certain co-operating jig holes, jig pins or other positioning surfaces provided, as hereinafter explained at predetermined locations both in the instrumentalities which shape or otherwise operate upon'the upper and also in other elements of the shoe which areto be assembled with and secured to the upper,- all in such a manner that the various cooperating parts or units of the shoe shall fit accurately together and result in a uniform product of standard measurement and shape corresponding exactly to the-selected design and yet eliminating the need of s ecial skill on the part of the workmen. A vantageously and as illustrated in the accompanying drawings the jig holes as well as the slits are formed in such portions of the upper that they will be unexposed in the shoe when finished, and, indeed, in portions which may, in some instances, be trimmed off during the manufacture of the shoe. Likewise, as already indicated, the jig holes 4 and 10 are conveniently located at opposite sides of the shoe in the vicinity of the tip seam while the front and rear holes 6 in the heel portion of the upper are spaced a substantial distance apart and at such locations, both heightwise of the upper and angularly relatively to each other respectively,

that the upper in the shoe when finished shall have a predetermined height and shall fit the last, and hence the foot, smoothly and accurately. Jig holes may beformed in the lining corresponding in size and location to the jig holes 4' in the vamp but preferably still larger openings or notches are formed in the lining to provide ample clearance for the lg held during the stitching eration. lamp 28 is provided with a pair 0 jig pins 32 rounded somewhat at their upper ends but otherwise of a size to fit the jig holes 4 and 10, respectively, in the vamp and tip. While the clamp is open, the vamp and tip are successively located upon the work carrier by slipping the holes 4 and 10 over the upstanding pins 32, whereupon the clamp 30 is lowered to maintain the parts securely in the position thus determined. The upper being thus clamped'in the work carrier,the latter is moved progressively past the stitching instrumentalities so that the tip seam is sewn in a predetermined path. If desired, the jig pins 32 may be withdrawn after such clamping and stitching begins as shown at the right in Fig. 2. While machines of various types may be utilized for performing this step 1n the present method, a machine of the automatic type which may be used advantageously for thus locating and stitching the tip seam is disclosed and claimed in a eopending application filed in the name of Benjamin F. Mayo which has now matured as Patent No. 1,569,232, granted Jan. 12, 1926. For the purpose of the present application it is sufiicient to state that, as illustrated herein, the work carrier 26 is provided with a pair of guide rolls 34 which engage a cam track 36 formed in a member secured to the head of the stitching machine which is indicatedconventionally by needles 38. It will be noted that, by this method of jigging, not only are the vamp and tip invariably located in correct relative position but they are presented to the stitching instrumentalities in-such a manner that the tip seam is located in exact predetermined relation to the j ig holes and therefore to the rear edge of the tip. 7

Under certain conditions and especially when a vamp without the tabs 14 is used, it may be preferred to cement the tip and vamp together, in which case the parts will be correctly located by jig pins, such as 32, in the manner described and then the overlapping cemented surfaces will be pressed together,

after which the tip seam may be stitched as shown in Fig. 2 but, because the parts are cemented together, it will suflice if the clamps 28, 30 engage the tip only.

For insuring the correct positioning of the upper for the closing or stitching of thebackseam 40, the upper ma be folded inside'out on its longitudinal me ian line and placed in a carrier 42 forming a part of a stitching machine, two jig pins 44 in the carrier fitting within and serving with certainty to aline corresponding pairs of holes 6 on opposite sides of the vamp, as shown in Fig. 3. Thus said jig pins and jig holes locate the upper invariably in correct. sition in the carrier 42 in which position t e upper is clamped, as by a member 46 pivoted to the work supporting plate of the carrier. ASSllOWil, the latter is provided with two guides 48 fittin a cam track 50 formed in a member secure to the head of the stitching machine, indicated conventionally by the needle 52. By the use of the mechanism just described, the upper, after it has been correctly positioned in the carrier, is guided in apredetermined path during the relative travel of the carrier and the stitching instrumentalities so that the back seam 40 is invariably located exactly in the same position with respect to the jig holes in the upper and to the tip seam. One machine of the automatic type which may be used for stitching the back seam in the manner just indicated forms the subject of a copending application Serial No. 368,025, filed by Benjamin F. Mayo, on March 3, 1920.

In addition to other functions of the jig holes 10 in the tip herein referred to, these I holes together with complemental jig .pins may be utilized in a similar-manner to jig the 90 tip with relation to a die or machine for producing ornamental perforations in the tip. Such perforations are shown in Fig. 3, for example, but are omitted in Fig. 2 in order that the jig holes 10 may1 be shown more clearly.

Turning now to t e preparation of the insole, Figs. 4 to 7 illustrate a type of insole and also successive steps in its manufacture, which form a art of the present invention. As shown, the insole 54 is made up of two or 100 more layers of fabric or other suitable material including a-layer 56 of canvas in which a stitch receiving rib or lip 58 is molded and to which the other layer or layers 60 are .adhesively secured. If-desired, the upper or foot engaging layer may be of a material, such as pantasote, which presents a relatively smooth surface along which the foot will slide easily and which has an appearance somewhat resembling leather. Outside of the rib 58, the insole has the usual feather 62 which is preferabl depressed or offset around the toe, as at 6 particularly when a box toeis employed, to compensate for the additional thickness of the upper materials at that point, and thus to facilitate the location of the inseam at a uniform distance from the unribbed face of the insole. Similarly the margin may be depressed around the heel end, as at .66 to compensate for the thickness of the countei'. In predetermined relation to the rib 58, the insole is provided'with two circular jig holes 68, preferably spaced apart a predetermined distance and located in the longitudinal median line of the heel portion of the insole. However, the rear hole may be elongated as indicated in dotted lines, if desired, to facilitate placing it over the jig pins hereinafter mentioned.

In manufacturing such an insole commer- 1,667,948, granted May 1, '1928, the rib 58 will be formed in the layer 56, the other layer or layers 60 will be located accurately in predetermined relation to the layer 56 and then secured permanently thereto by adhesive and under pressure. broadfeatures of the present inventlon are concerned, the insole may be built up iii a variety of ways and with the aid of simple molding instrumentalities, such as are illustrated diagrammatically in Fig. 4, wherein a female mold 70 is provided with a roove 72 corresponding in outline and dept 1 to the rib 58 to be formed in the layer of canvas 56. In order to produce in the margin of the insole the depressed portions 64, 66 above described, the

end marginal portions of this mold. 70 are:

made somewhat higher than its general surface, the adjacent horizontal surfaces being joined together by'short, inclined surfaces 74, 76. The male mold 78 is provided with molding surfaces com lemental to those of mold 70, including a ri '80 shaped to press a portion of the layer 56 firmly into the groove 72. After the ribbed layer 56 has been molded as'shown in Fig. 4, the'other layer or layers 60 are deposited upon and in predetermmed relation to the ribbed layer, adhesive having.

- been previously alpplied to at least one of each two adjacent ayers in any suitable manner, and then all the layers while supported by mold 70 are held under pressure by a mold similar to the mold78, but without a rib such as rib 80, until the adhesive has dried sulficiently to .insure a permanent connection between the layers. This stage in the process is illustrated in Fig. 5. Under certain circum-- stances, it may be preferable tosecure two unribbed layers together permanently and apply them as a unit to the ribbed layer 56'.

Next, according to the manner of practicingthe invention herein exemplified, the margin of the insole is trimmed and two jig holes 68 are unched to insure that its periphery and the oles shall be in predetermined relation to each other .and to the rib 58. For performing these operations a roundin machine of the well known Planet type, mo ified as indicated in Fig. 6, may be employed. As shown, a sole support and pattern 82 has a marginal upstandin rib 84, the inner wall of which is constructed and arranged to fit accurately the outer side of the rib 58. The upper surface of the rib 84 has a width complemental to the feather or margin of the insole and constitutes a su port for the insole which is clampedbetwe'en t e rib 84 and a clamp plate or block However, so far as the 86. With the insole thus located and clamped, it is trimmed around its periphery by a knife, indicated at 88,- whichbears against and is guided by the outer face of the rib 84. Also, as shown, while the insole is thus clamped the jig holes 68 are formed by suitable punches one of which is indicated at 90 and each of which is guided by an opening 92 in the pattern and cuts against the block 86. It should be noted that the insole is thus jigged for the trimming and punching operations so that its final periphery is at every I point located at a predetermined distance rom the outside of the rib and so that the heel seat lasting tacks and for the heads of theheel attachingnails, as will further appear. This heelreinforce may be made of any suit-' able hard, tough material, such as fibrethe course 0 the manufacture of'the board, and is preferably given a curvature corresponding approximately to the bottom of the heel portion of the lastv and its edges are beveled as shown at 96, 98. It is also rovided with two jig holes 100 correspon ing exactly to the jig holes 68 in the insole. I

One way of preparing this heel re force is illustrated. diagrammatically in 9, wherein is shown a pair of molds 102, 104 having complemental. molding surfaces so shaped as to produce the transverse and, it may be, the longitudinal curvatures desired 'in' the finished heel plate. While it is under pressure between the'molds the plate is cut to the redetermined size desired, as for example, y a hollow knife 106which is guided in vertical trimming movements bythe periphery of the mold 102. The plate is preferably of such material that, after it has been molded to the shape shown in Fig. 9, its elasticity will cause it to' flatten out somewhat as the pressure of the molds is released and thus the edge 96 will be inwardly inclined with respect to the vertical axis of the plate so that when the reinforce is applied to the last, as below explained,'this edge 96 willpresent a surface which is substantially a continuation of the lateral surface of the last and which, therefore, will fit closely against the adjacent portion of the shoewhen incorporated therein. While the reinforceor plate is thus positioned by the molds and knife, a pair of vertically movable punches, indicated at 108,.

out out'the jig holes 100 so that these holes bear a predetermined'relation to the trimmed periphery of the reinforce and correspond exactly with the jig holes 68 in the insole. The bevel 98 is cut at any convenient stage in the manufacture of the reinforce.

Fig. 8 represents a molded counter 110 o a known type which, it is contemplated, will usually be incorporated in the shoe and which is provided :with an inturned flange 112, the forward ends of which have up 'anding wings or margins 114 separated from the flange 112 by slits 116 and so shaped that the angular portions thus formed in the counter fit-the angle formed by the rib 58 and the feather 62 of the insole, as shown, for example, inFigs. 13 and 38. In preparing such a counter, it is molded. in accordance with known methods to give its sides, flange 112 and wings 114 substantially the shape they are to have in the finished shoe. To facilitate the exact positioning of the counter 110 in correct relation to the other parts of the shoe, as will be hereinafter explained, the counter may be provided, at the time the slits 116 are formed, or at any other convenient stage in its preparation, with one or more positioning surfaces, formed, for example, by a notch 117, cut in the flange 112 in predetermined relation to the contour of the counter and to slits 116.

As already pointed out, an important characteristic of the particular mode or practicing the method herein described, by way of illustration, is that the toe and heel of the upper are molded or shaped off the last to produce the final shape desired in the shoe when finished and to produce inturned flanges which determine the junction of the sides and bottom of the upper and which flanges also, in the case of a welt shoe, terminate in upstanding marginal flanges shaped to fit the rib of the insole around the toe.

This molding of the upper may be effected by any suitable instrumentalities, such, for example, as those which are illustrated, large- 1 y diagrammatically, in Figs. 11 to 15 of the drawings. Referring particularly to Figs. 11

and 12, which illustrate the molding of the toe of the upper, 118 designates an internal, metallic form or mold having an exterior shape corresponding to the shape which that portion of the toe of the'upper which will )e visible in the finished shoe is to have. The upper vmargin of the mold is recessed at 120, as shown in Fig. 12, for a purpose to be more fully described. A pair of laterally movable wipers 122 are actuated during the molding operation to force a portion of the upper adjacent to its margin into the recess 120 as will be more fully described. Preparatory to the molding operation proper, the margin of the outspread toe of the upper is clamped upon the upper face of the wipers 122 by a clamping plate or plates 124, while a yieldingly pressed pad 126 ma be employed to clamp the upper against t e crowning portion of the mold 118. A rotary trimming knife 128 carried by a shaft 130. is provided for cutting the surplus of the upper at its margin after the upper has been molded.

As already pointed out, an important characteristic of the present invention is the jigging of the upper for molding by positioning it always and without fail in predetermined relation tothe molding instrumentalities and then continuing the control of the upper during the molding operation so that the shape, length, lateral and angular positions of the molded portion of the upper will be determined with invariable certainty, and so that all such molded portions of uppers of the same size and style shall be essentially identical and uniform and, moreover, without-requiring any substantial exercise. of skill or care on the part of the workman on the shoe.

Accordingly, as illustrated in the drawings, the toe of the upper is thus located relative to the molding instrumentalities by the use of a presenter 132 having upturned ends in the form of pins 134 which fit respectively the alined jig holes 4 and 10in the vamp and tip. Shoulders may be provided upon the presenter to limit the distance that theupper may be pushed over. the pins. With the upper supported in the presenter,- as illustrated in Fig. 11,and with 'its' lining uppermost, and, if desired, with a softened box toe inserted, between the lining and the leather tip, the toe which is outspread and substantially flat is laid upon the wipers 122, the pins 134 entering slots 138 in the wipers and being pressed firmly against the inner ends of the slots While shoulders 136 slide beneath the wipers. Thus the upper is jigged or located unerringly with respect to the molding in- I strumentalities without any skill or judgment being required on the part of the workman.

Thereafter the margin of the upperis clamped by the plate 124, the presenter 132 is removed and the actual molding begins.

Thus, the form 118 is moved from a position above the wipers 122 and theplate 124 into engagement with the upper thus clamped,

the pad 126 then holdin the upper against displacement about the orm, thelatter continues its downward movement, and. gradu-' ally withdraws the upper from between the wipers and the plate after which the plate 7 is raised and the wipers are moved inward to force the upper into recess 120, thus-forming at the margin of the upper an inturned flange 140 and an upstanding margin 142 shaped to fit the rib 58 of the insole 54 around the toe (Fig. 36), as already suggested. The upper is held under the pressure of the molding instrumentalities until it has become set and during that time the surplus 144 at the margin is removed entirely or partially by rotation of knife 128. Preferably and as shown, for example, in Figs. 16 and 40, this trimming begins and ends slightly forward of the tip seam and of the rear portion of closed ully and claimed in a copending aplication filed in the name of William C.

axter, which has now matured as Patent- No. 1,692,284, granted November 20, 1928, and while thls step in the present method may be performed in various ways, the'best way now known to applicant involves the use of apparatus of the type disclosed in said application. I

The heel portion of the upper is molded preferably after the molding of the toe and preferably, also, although in the broader aspects of the invention not necessarily, the insole 54 is permanently secured to the upper as a part of the heel molding operation; As illustrated in Figs. 13, 14 and15, the-heel portion of the upper is molded over a metallic, internal form or mold 146 from which.

projects a pair of jig pins 148 corresponding in location to the jig holes 68 in the insole 54 and the jig holes 100 in the heel reinforce 94. "This form 146 is so shaped as to give the heel portion of the upper substantially the sha e which it is to have in the shoe When finished? As previously pointed out, an .important characteristic of the present method is that the parts which are assembled during the heel molding operation are jigged, or'positioned with certainty in predetermined relation not only with respect to the molding in-' strumentalities but also with respect to each other before they are secured together. To

accomplish this result,'first the reinforce 94 is placed upon the form 146 and then the insole 54 is placed upon the reinforce with the ig pins 148 extending through and fitting the jig holes in the heel reinforce and the insole. Then the upper is placed around the form 146, the counter 110 being inserted between the lining and the upper proper, the lining being drawn smooth and over the heel ortion of the insole. Because the counter has been initially molded, as described, tofit the manufacturing last and, therefore, the

corresponding form 146, and because its upstanding margins 114 have been shaped to fit the rib 58 of the insole, its consequent tendency to locate itself in the correct relation to the form 146 and therefore to the insdle as it is pressed about the form and against the insole may, in most cases, be relied upon to insure its accurate position with respect to the other parts of the shoe which are connected with it, as a part of the heel molding operation. It is contemplated, however, that, under some manufacturing conditions, a molded counter of the same shape may be employed for both right and left shoes so that, as a result of its separate molding, prior to er is molded, it may not fit both the right form 146 and the complemental left form exactly. In that and other cases, the counter may be positioned with still greater certainty by the method indicated in Fig. 14,-in which a thin metal bar 150 is pointed at 152 to fit the notch 117 in the flange 112 of the counter and pro-- vided with a pair of jig holes 154 shaped to fit over the jig pins 148 of the form 146. After this bar 150 has served the purpose just stated and after-the heel molding operation, it may re removed.

The parts of the heel portion of the shoe having been thus asembled as shown in Fig. 14 with thevamp upstanding around the form 146,a presser foot 156 which is recessed slightly to receive the-bar 150 and which is also provided with jig holes to fit the jig pins 148 is brought down upon the flange 112 of the counter. This foot carries four jig pins 158 (of which one is hidden in Fig. 15 by other parts) which are relativ'el so located that the jig holes 6 in the vamp ht over these pins with the result that the heel portion of the upper'is thus jigged or located precisely and with certainty with relation tot-he heel the molding to which it is subjected at the time that the heel portion of the upp molding instrumentalities. The jig pins 158- are movable laterally and are connected with .a relatively movable section 160 of the foot 156 so that they are projected outward asshown in Fig. 15 during the downward move ment of section 160 after. the foot 156proper has come into contact with the counter, lining or insole, Then, a heel band 162, complemental in shape to the internal form 146, ispressed firmly against theouter side of the upper, imparting to it the shape of the form. After the upper has been clamped, the section 160 is lifted relatively tothe foot proper and thus causes the jig pins 158 to be withdrawn from the jig holes in the upper and the foot is moved out of the way to permit the molding of the heel portion of the upper to be completed. Vipers 164 are then moved inwardly to form an inturned flange 165 on the upper, thus producing a sharply defined line 166 between the sides and bottom of the upper. The upper and adjacent parts are held under molding pressure for a time sufficient to ermit,them to set and, while so held, a series of tacks 168 are driven through holes 17 0 in the wipers and through the flange 165, the insole 54 and the heel reinforce 94, and are clinched upon the inside of the reinforce by the upper face of the metallic form 146. Thus the flange 165 of the upper is permanently secured to and around the heel portion of the insole by a series of tacks inserted at one operation and in a predetermined relation to each other and to the jig holes 68. The insole and upper thus connected and shown in Fig. 16 represents one of the units of the shoe, herein referred to as major units, which may be separately prepared prior to the assembling of the shoe upon the last. While theoperaiton of molding the heel portion of an upper and securing it to an insole and other shoe parts may be performed in various ways with apparatus of known types, a complete machine which has been particularly designed for the purpose forms the subject-matter of a copending application filed in the name of William C. Baxter, which has now matured as Patent No. 1,700,970, granted February 5, 1929.

Thepreparat-ion of another of the major units just referred to, viz, the forepart of the shoe bottom, will now be described. As

\shown in Fig. 23, this bottom unit comprises a short outsole 172, a metallic shank stiffener 17d and a sheet filler 176 permanently secured together in predetermined relation with each other. A bottom unit of this general character and a method of making it form the subject-matter of a copending application in the name of Frederick M. Furber, which i has now matured as Patent No. 1,582,259, granted April 27, 1926.

As herein shown, the outsole 172 is of a length to extend somewhat back of the breast line of the heeltFig. 47). As illustrated in Fig. 17, the outsole may first he died out from a hide of leather in the ordinary manner to approximately its final peripheral shape by the use of a die, such as 178. The outsole is also provided in any suitable way with a jig hole 180 adjacent to the rear edge of the outsole and so located that when, at a later stage in the method, the outsole is assembled with its edge in exactly the correct relation to a welted shoe, this jig hole 180 shall aline with the forward jig hole 68 of the insole. Mechanism shown in Fig. 18 for thus punching the jig hole comprises asupport 182 from which project abutments 184; against which the rear edge of the outsole is firmly pressed.-

The outsole is centered laterally by side gages 17 7' provided with arms 186 gearedtogether and then the hole is cut out by a punch 188.

In the making of certain types of shoes and as herein exemplified, the sole is next fmolded, that is to say, itis given while in temper,

or moist, longitudinal and transverse curvatures corresponding approximately to the curvatures of the bottom of the last, so that it, with the parts to be attached thereto, shall lit the bottom of the welted shoe. To facilitate the subsequent stitching operation, the outsole is also molded so as to flare in the shank, as indicated especially in Fig. 43. The molding operation may be performed with the aid of a sole molding machine of usual type. In Fig. 19, where this step is illustrated diagrammatically, the molds are designated 192 and 194:, respectively and the complemental portions for producing'the flare just referred to are indicated at 195. According to this invention, the lower or supporting mold 192 is provided with a jig pin 196 over which the jig hole 180 in the outsole is placed,

thus locating the rear portion of the outsole exactly both transversely and longitudinally with respect to the molds. The toe end of the outsole may be located transversely in any suitable manner to secure such a degree of accuracy as is useful under actual commercial conditions, as, for example, by utilizing the sides of the lower mold as a gage or, as shown, by a fork 198 which has a predetermined transverse position relative to the molds but I paratus of the general character of that.

shown in Fig. 6 for trimming the insole and comprising, as shown in Fig. 20, a pattern 200 and a clamp 202 each of which within its periphery is hollowed out at 20 1, so that the outsole is clamped at its margin only, in order not to alter permanently and. substantially the shape which was imparted to it in the molding operation indicated in Fig. 19. Like wise, also, substantially all of the moisture in the outsole is allowed or caused to evaporate prior to this trimming operation. In locating the outsole upon the pattern 200 the jig hole 180 in its rear portion is placed over a pin 206 projecting from the attern. The toe end of the outsole may be positioned transversely, before it is clamped, with the needed degree of accuracy in any suitable manner, as has been just pointed out in eonnection'with the molding operation. Then the outsole is clamped between the parts 200, 202 and a knife 208 is moved around the outsole being guided by the edge of the pattern, thus removing any surplus 210 from the margin of the outsole. However, it may be practicable under particular manufacturing conditions to dispense with either or both of the trimming operations, indicated in Figs. 17 and 20, particularly since it is contemplated that the outsole will be trimmed sligthly after it has been stitched to the welt, as below explained. Moreover, cut outsoles as sold in the open marketmay be punched as indicated at 180 and may then be presented immediately to the molding devices shown in Fig. 19 without any other trimming.

It is contemplated that heels of identical dimensions may be used with outsoles of different thicknesses and, therefore,.since the rear portion of the outsole will overlap the

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