US3703820A - Foundation garment and method of making same - Google Patents

Foundation garment and method of making same Download PDF

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Publication number
US3703820A
US3703820A US74995A US3703820DA US3703820A US 3703820 A US3703820 A US 3703820A US 74995 A US74995 A US 74995A US 3703820D A US3703820D A US 3703820DA US 3703820 A US3703820 A US 3703820A
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United States
Prior art keywords
warp
stretchable
strands
fabric
yarns
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Expired - Lifetime
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US74995A
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English (en)
Inventor
George E Jackson
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Viskase Corp
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Union Carbide Corp
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Publication of US3703820A publication Critical patent/US3703820A/en
Assigned to VISKASE CORPORATION, A CORP. OF PA. reassignment VISKASE CORPORATION, A CORP. OF PA. ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST. Assignors: UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, A CORP. OF NEW YORK
Assigned to CONTINENTAL BANK N.A. reassignment CONTINENTAL BANK N.A. SECURITY INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: VISKASE CORPORATION
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/18Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41CCORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C1/00Corsets or girdles
    • A41C1/02Elastic corsets
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • D04B21/207Wearing apparel or garment blanks
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/02Underwear
    • D10B2501/021Hosiery; Panti-hose

Definitions

  • This invention is especially related to the warp knitting of garments on Raschel machines, especially of the double needle bar type, to the end of producing foundation garments, panties, or the like, at high speed and low cost, preferably in continuous web form, ready to be cut transversely into individual garments.
  • Ser. No. 776,938 the two single fabrics, warp knitted on the two needle bars of a machine such as the Fashionmaster made by Cooker Machine and Foundry Company of Gastonia, North Carolina, have stretchable retractive yarns inlaid Wale-wise and are interknitted along spaced coursewise extending strips to form horizontal, or coursewise, extending tubes. When cut along the strips and turned through 90 the wale-wise extending stretch yarns extend circumferentially around the tubular garment.
  • the front panels and the rear panels of the resulting garment are usually of the same knitted structure and of equal stretchability.
  • the warp knitting machine is modified to produce a simulated weave pattern in the warp knit fabric either similar in appearance to the Co-We-Nit fabric of Karl Mayer Co., Offenbach, Geri'nany, or in a knitted structure in which the chain stitch yarns also serve as the weft yarns.
  • a spot pattern, or area, of restraining yams which can be localized, in only one panel, and only in the central portion of the panel, if desired, is achieved.
  • the foundation garment whether girdle, panty, or panty girdle, is formed with a tubular body, the major portion of the area of which is of stretchable, retractive yarns, for example, the rear panel and the periphery of the front panel, while the minor portion of the area is of-less stretchable, or non-stretchable, yarns, for example, the central portion of the front panel to form an integral, built in, knitted restraint panel.
  • knitting machine is warp knit of less stretchable, or non-stretchable, strands, and in a simulated weave pattern, such as disclosed in my above mentioned patent applications.
  • front and rear panels of the tubular garment each of a different knitted fabric structure, but the stretch yarns of the rear panel extend circumferentially and the weft portions of the less stretchable weave yarns of the front panel extend axially of the tubular garment.
  • Any desired Wale-wise area of either fabric could be warp knit of yarns of various denier, stretchability, or composition, but I have discovered that when the rear panel is stretchable and the identical width front panel is less stretchable, the resulting tubular garment blank stretches desirably when donned by the wearer, so that the marginal portions of the rear panel stretch around the hips, waist and legs to form a peripheral band around the front panel with the restraint area centrally of the front panel.
  • FIG. 1 is a diagrammatic side elevation of a typical two needle bar Raschel warp knitting machine showing the continuous webs of horizontal tubular garments of the invention
  • FIG. 2 is a rear elevation of the webs shown in FIG. 1 on an enlarged scale
  • FIG. 3 is a much enlarged view of the simulated weave warp knit structure of one of the two single fabrics
  • FIG. 4 is a view similar to FIG. 3 of another simulated weave warp knit structure
  • FIG. 5 is a view similar to FIGS. 3 and 4, but showing the power net structure of the other of the two single fabrics with inlaid stretchable-retractive yarns and with filler yarns;
  • FIG. 6 is a rear elevation of a foundation garment cut from the web, turned inside out and ready for wear.
  • FIG. 7 is a front elevational view of the garment shown in FIG. 6, donned by a wearer and in stretched condition.
  • One set is called warp (or woof) and generally constitutes the vertically oriented yarn in the apparel unit.
  • the other set of yarns called weft (or filling) and generally constitutes the horizontally oriented yarn in the apparel unit.
  • Warp Knitted Fabrics Interloopings of individual yarn threads coming from one (at least) set of yarns called warp. Interlooping is accomplished by moving the yarn between loops laterally in a transfer motion from one needle (loop former) to an adjacent needle. Although each yarn as knitted vertically on each needle forms a chain of loops with noticeable vertical orientation, careful study of the warp knitted fabric shows that the yarns in fact do not lie unidirectionally as in a woven fabric.
  • Warp Knit Net By cross interlooping two sets of warp yarns, both oriented vertically to the fabric web (and the machine) a net (fishnet, lacenet, net net) structure is made in which the interlooping ties are diagonal to the vertical chain stitch line. There are no horizontal ties.
  • Powernet On inserting (not necessarily knitting or looping, or interlooping) an elastic yarn in the warp or vertical direction and under tension, a fabric is knitted which, on release from tension, collapses or retracts and thereafter has stretch, recoverable stretch, and power (modulus) in stretch and recovery.
  • Knitting Simulated Weaves In order to approximate the appearance and/or the mechanical performance of a woven fabric on a warp knitting machine, it is necessary to cause a yarn to lie at right angles to the preponderately vertical direction of the main, original," or base warp yarn. This may be done by A. Causing a second set of vertically oriented feed yarns to be moved horizontally (or laterally) from needle to needle by a special lateral movement of the yarn guides.
  • weft yarns In warp knitting, the specific laterally oriented yarns are referred to as weft yarns because they perform the intended function of a weft yarn commonly known in woven fabric.
  • the warp knitting machine 20 is of the Raschel type with two needle bars 21 and 22, two sets of guide bars 23 and 24, and suitable powered actuation and patterning mechanism 25 to cause the guide bars to oscillate through two full strokes for each single stroke of the needle bars.
  • the machine 20 may be a modified version of the Fashionmaster made by Cocker Machine and Foundry Company of Gastonia, N.C., or any equivalent machine, capable of making the simulated weave patterns of FIGS. 3 and 4 and the power net patterns of FIG. 5.
  • each needle bar 21 and 22 produces a continuous, warp knit, single fabric 27 or 28, each from a separate set of warp strands 29 or 30, the single fabrics 27 and 28 being joined by interknitting one set of strands with the other at spaced coursewise extending, doubled fabric strips 31 or. 32 which define a succession of horizontal, open-ended, coursewise extending tubes 33 or 34.
  • the web 36 of tubular material may be wound up on wind-up roll 37 and the web later cut transversely along the strips 31 and 32 to form individual generally tubular bodies or garments, such as girdles, panty girdles, sweaters, or panties 38, the garments 38 being turned inside out to cover the side seams 39 and 40.
  • a crotch seam 41 may be interknitted to form panties.
  • a plurality of stretchable-retractive warp yarns 42 are inlaid wale-wise of the stitches of the base yarn 43 of at least one single fabric 28, the power net 28 preferably including suitable filler yarns 44 to create attractive waist bands 45 and leg bands 46.
  • the stretch yarns 42 extend circumferentially of the garment 38, when the garment is cut from the web and turned through thereby forming a stretchable retractive rear panel 47 which conforms and stretches to fit the shape of the wearer as shown in FIG. 7.
  • the single fabric 27 is formed of warp strands 30 which are less stretchable-retractive than the strands 42 and which preferably are substantially non-stretchable so that they may form a non-stretch restraint panel, or area, 50 in the front of the garment 38.
  • the warp strands 30 may include a chain stitch yarn 51 (shown in black), a pair of warp yarns 52 and 53, (shown cross hatched), and a warp yarn 54 designated as a weft yarn (shown in white), having weft portions 56, thereby producing a simulated weave pattern as disclosed in the above mentioned patent application, Ser. No. 55,490, and as known in the trade as the Co-We-Nit process of Karl Mayer Co. of Offenbach, Germany.
  • the single fabric 27 may also be formed in a simulated weave pattern of relatively non-stretchable yarns as shown in FIG. 4, and described in the said patent application, Ser. No. 50,234.
  • the warp yarns 30 do not include a separate warp yarn designated as a weft yarn, but include only the warp yarns 52 and 53 (shown in white) and a chain stitch yarn 55 which has a weft portion 56 (shown in black and cross hatching).
  • each garment 38 has a stretchable-retractive rear panel 47 with stretchable-retractive yarns 42 running circumferentially at least from side seam 39 to side seam 40 and has a less stretchable, simulated weave front panel 50 of identical area when flatwise and undistended.
  • the marginal portion 58 of the rear panel is stretched to form a peripheral area around the front panel 50, so that panel 50 appears to be a restraint area formed centrally of the front of the garment.
  • the waist band 45 and leg bands 46 include warp-wise extending stretch yarns 42 so that they are annular around the waist opening 59 and leg openings 60 and correspond to elastic waist and leg bands on panty briefs or the like.
  • the major area of the garment is stretchable and the minor area non-stretchable.
  • the height of the restraint panel 50 can be varied from merely a narrow band to the distance from leg opening to waist opening but the width remains constant as extending from side seam to side seam.
  • the warp yarns 52 and 53 on the front panel 50 can be of stretchableretractive material similar to the warp yarns 42 inlaid in the power net of the rear panel 47, thereby encompassing the body of the wearer in stretch yarns, while the remaining yarns 51, 54 or 55 of the front panel can be less stretchable or non-stretchable to form the restraint area in the front panel.
  • the panel 50 would have stretch in a circumferential, or horizontal, direction, but not in an axial, or vertical, direction.
  • the stretchable-retractive, inlaid warp yarns 42 of the rear panel will extend circumferentially of the body of the wearer while the weft portions 56 of the simulated weave weft yarns 54 or 55 of the front panel will extend axially of the tubular garment.
  • a warp knitted garment comprising a front panel and a rear panel, each having a separate set of warp strands, and each panel interknitted with the other along opposite side edges to form a generally tubular body having a waist opening at one end and limb openings at the other end;
  • the warp strands of said front panel being warp knit into a simulated woven fabric with the warp strands thereof, which serve to simulate woven weft strands, having weft simulating portions extending coursewise thereof but axially of said body,
  • the warp strands of said rear panel being warp knit into a warp knitted fabric of knitted structure, different from that of said front panel and including warp strands of stretchable-retractive material inlaid wale-wise thereof but extending circumferentially of said body from one said side to the other,
  • said rear panel being thereby stretchable circumferentially of said tubular body to conform to the shape of the wearer.
  • said garment is a pair of panties
  • said body includes a crotch area formed by interknitting the strands of one said panel with the strands of the other said panel in a central narrow strip and the said warp strands forming the front panel of said panties are less stretchable-retractive than the stretchable-retractive warp yarns of said rear panel.
  • a warp knitted stretchable-retractive garment comprising a generally tubular body, the major area of which body, when stretched on the body of the wearer, is of power net fabric with stretchable-retractive yarns extending Wale-wise of said fabric but circumferentially of said body;
  • said garment is a pair of panties having a front panel and a rear panel, the strands of said panels being interknitted in coursewise-extending strips to form opposite interknitted side seams and an interknitted crotch area and wherein,
  • said minor area of simulated weave pattern constitutes the said front panel to thereby form a restraint panel and said major area of power net constitutes the said rear panel to thereby provide stretch circumferentially of said body.
  • the method of making a continuous web blanks which comprises the steps of simultaneously warp knitting a pair of superposed single fabrics, each from a separate set of warp strands, on the front and back needle bars of a warp knitting machine, one set of which includes stretchable-retractive yarns and the other set of which comprises non-stretchable yarns;

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)
US74995A 1970-09-24 1970-09-24 Foundation garment and method of making same Expired - Lifetime US3703820A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US7499570A 1970-09-24 1970-09-24

Publications (1)

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US3703820A true US3703820A (en) 1972-11-28

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US74995A Expired - Lifetime US3703820A (en) 1970-09-24 1970-09-24 Foundation garment and method of making same

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US (1) US3703820A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
CA (1) CA942084A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
DE (1) DE2147580B2 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
ES (1) ES400924A1 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
FR (1) FR2108484A5 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)
GB (1) GB1357024A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow)

Cited By (21)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB2162413A (en) * 1984-07-31 1986-02-05 Alison Margaret Johnson Ladies' thigh tights
WO1998041117A1 (en) * 1997-03-17 1998-09-24 Jennifer Rosenberg Post-pregnancy compression garment
US6301717B1 (en) * 1998-04-14 2001-10-16 Toray Industries, Inc. Clothes
US6691535B2 (en) * 2000-09-30 2004-02-17 Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik Gmbh Fabric for the formation of garment pieces, the garment pieces obtained therefrom and the garments produced therewith
US6755051B2 (en) 2002-10-07 2004-06-29 Delta Galil Industries, Ltd. Knitted garments and methods of fabrication thereof
EP1611808A1 (de) * 2004-06-28 2006-01-04 Walter Winkler Netzhöschen
US20070079427A1 (en) * 2005-10-06 2007-04-12 Jockey International, Inc. Undergarment
USD557879S1 (en) 2005-10-06 2007-12-25 Jockey International, Inc. Undergarment
USD576777S1 (en) 2005-10-06 2008-09-16 Jockey International, Inc. Undergarment
US20090064721A1 (en) * 2005-03-31 2009-03-12 Fumio Shirasaki Warp Knitting Fabric and Its Manufacturing Method
US20110239353A1 (en) * 2003-04-25 2011-10-06 Ingrid Carney Maternity garment
US8191177B1 (en) 2003-04-25 2012-06-05 Ingrid & Isabel, Llc Maternity garment
CN103741365A (zh) * 2014-01-26 2014-04-23 常州市润源经编机械有限公司 一种用于编织双层立体织物的双针床经编机
US20150189922A1 (en) * 2004-09-23 2015-07-09 Skins International Trading Ag Compression garments and a method of manufacture
US20160339286A1 (en) * 2015-05-22 2016-11-24 Nike, Inc. Training tight with preconfigured compression zones and integrated structure patterns
USD792677S1 (en) 2013-09-15 2017-07-25 Ingrid & Isabel, Llc Crossover maternity panel
US9850601B2 (en) * 2013-06-17 2017-12-26 Reebok International Limited Knitted athletic performance garment
CN108796807A (zh) * 2018-06-15 2018-11-13 广州舒服科技有限公司 一种前裆结构的编织方法及其男士内裤的编织方法
US10271581B2 (en) 2015-05-22 2019-04-30 Nike, Inc. Recovery tight with preconfigured compression zones and integrated structure patterns
US10415163B2 (en) 2015-12-10 2019-09-17 Ingrid & Isabel, Llc Seamless postpartum garment
US10645978B2 (en) 2015-05-22 2020-05-12 Nike, Inc. Running tight with preconfigured compression zones and integrated structure patterns

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CA1151888A (en) * 1980-12-18 1983-08-16 David T. Melton Knitted elastic bandage
CN103572494B (zh) * 2013-11-08 2015-05-06 江南大学 经编无缝无底连裤袜的织造方法
CN108842286A (zh) * 2018-07-30 2018-11-20 东莞润信弹性织物有限公司 一种具有可穿绳功能的管状开孔织物

Citations (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2026963A (en) * 1935-02-12 1936-01-07 Vanity Fair Silk Mils Warp knit girdle with integral supporting panels
US2040058A (en) * 1936-05-05 Lockstitch knit fabric
US2074119A (en) * 1936-05-07 1937-03-16 Robert Reis & Co Garment
FR1090516A (fr) * 1956-10-19 1955-03-31 Cotonniere De Saint Quentin Perfectionnements aux sacs en bonneterie
FR1143424A (fr) * 1956-03-15 1957-10-01 Leon Denoyelle & Cie Procédé de fabrication de gaines et de sacs d'emballages sur métier de bonneterie
US3077758A (en) * 1959-07-15 1963-02-19 George C Moore Company Elastic fabric
DE1585445A1 (de) * 1963-01-15 1969-09-18 Glanzstoff Ag Gewebeaehnliche Kettengewirke
FR1595181A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) * 1968-12-06 1970-06-08
US3520155A (en) * 1967-04-20 1970-07-14 Peter Koppenburg Raschel knit fabric and method of making the same
US3570270A (en) * 1968-01-03 1971-03-16 Peter Koppenburg Warp knit fabric

Patent Citations (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2040058A (en) * 1936-05-05 Lockstitch knit fabric
US2026963A (en) * 1935-02-12 1936-01-07 Vanity Fair Silk Mils Warp knit girdle with integral supporting panels
US2074119A (en) * 1936-05-07 1937-03-16 Robert Reis & Co Garment
FR1143424A (fr) * 1956-03-15 1957-10-01 Leon Denoyelle & Cie Procédé de fabrication de gaines et de sacs d'emballages sur métier de bonneterie
FR1090516A (fr) * 1956-10-19 1955-03-31 Cotonniere De Saint Quentin Perfectionnements aux sacs en bonneterie
US3077758A (en) * 1959-07-15 1963-02-19 George C Moore Company Elastic fabric
DE1585445A1 (de) * 1963-01-15 1969-09-18 Glanzstoff Ag Gewebeaehnliche Kettengewirke
US3520155A (en) * 1967-04-20 1970-07-14 Peter Koppenburg Raschel knit fabric and method of making the same
US3570270A (en) * 1968-01-03 1971-03-16 Peter Koppenburg Warp knit fabric
FR1595181A (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) * 1968-12-06 1970-06-08

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
Hudson, Rachel, Pantyhose & Pantygirdle, May 25, 1970, Knitted Outerwear Times, pp. 49 56 *
Wheatley, CO WE NIT , Knitted Outerwear Times, Sept. 16, 1968, pp. 61 67 *

Cited By (28)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB2162413A (en) * 1984-07-31 1986-02-05 Alison Margaret Johnson Ladies' thigh tights
WO1998041117A1 (en) * 1997-03-17 1998-09-24 Jennifer Rosenberg Post-pregnancy compression garment
US6301717B1 (en) * 1998-04-14 2001-10-16 Toray Industries, Inc. Clothes
US6691535B2 (en) * 2000-09-30 2004-02-17 Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik Gmbh Fabric for the formation of garment pieces, the garment pieces obtained therefrom and the garments produced therewith
US6755051B2 (en) 2002-10-07 2004-06-29 Delta Galil Industries, Ltd. Knitted garments and methods of fabrication thereof
US8191177B1 (en) 2003-04-25 2012-06-05 Ingrid & Isabel, Llc Maternity garment
US20110239353A1 (en) * 2003-04-25 2011-10-06 Ingrid Carney Maternity garment
US8276216B2 (en) * 2003-04-25 2012-10-02 Ingrid & Isabel, Llc Maternity garment
EP1611808A1 (de) * 2004-06-28 2006-01-04 Walter Winkler Netzhöschen
US20150189922A1 (en) * 2004-09-23 2015-07-09 Skins International Trading Ag Compression garments and a method of manufacture
US10455868B2 (en) * 2004-09-23 2019-10-29 Skins International Trading Ag Compression garments and a method of manufacture
US20090064721A1 (en) * 2005-03-31 2009-03-12 Fumio Shirasaki Warp Knitting Fabric and Its Manufacturing Method
US7797967B2 (en) * 2005-03-31 2010-09-21 Seiren Co., Ltd. Warp knitting fabric and its manufacturing method
US20070079427A1 (en) * 2005-10-06 2007-04-12 Jockey International, Inc. Undergarment
USD557879S1 (en) 2005-10-06 2007-12-25 Jockey International, Inc. Undergarment
USD576777S1 (en) 2005-10-06 2008-09-16 Jockey International, Inc. Undergarment
US9850601B2 (en) * 2013-06-17 2017-12-26 Reebok International Limited Knitted athletic performance garment
USD792677S1 (en) 2013-09-15 2017-07-25 Ingrid & Isabel, Llc Crossover maternity panel
CN103741365A (zh) * 2014-01-26 2014-04-23 常州市润源经编机械有限公司 一种用于编织双层立体织物的双针床经编机
CN103741365B (zh) * 2014-01-26 2016-03-02 常州市润源经编机械有限公司 一种用于编织双层立体织物的双针床经编机
US20160339286A1 (en) * 2015-05-22 2016-11-24 Nike, Inc. Training tight with preconfigured compression zones and integrated structure patterns
US10265564B2 (en) * 2015-05-22 2019-04-23 Nike, Inc. Training tight with preconfigured compression zones and integrated structure patterns
US10271581B2 (en) 2015-05-22 2019-04-30 Nike, Inc. Recovery tight with preconfigured compression zones and integrated structure patterns
US10645978B2 (en) 2015-05-22 2020-05-12 Nike, Inc. Running tight with preconfigured compression zones and integrated structure patterns
US10765902B2 (en) 2015-05-22 2020-09-08 Nike, Inc. Training tight with preconfigured compression zones and integrated structure patterns
US11559094B2 (en) 2015-05-22 2023-01-24 Nike, Inc. Training tight with preconfigured compression zones and integrated structure patterns
US10415163B2 (en) 2015-12-10 2019-09-17 Ingrid & Isabel, Llc Seamless postpartum garment
CN108796807A (zh) * 2018-06-15 2018-11-13 广州舒服科技有限公司 一种前裆结构的编织方法及其男士内裤的编织方法

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ES400924A1 (es) 1975-02-16
FR2108484A5 (enrdf_load_stackoverflow) 1972-05-19
DE2147580A1 (de) 1972-08-17
GB1357024A (en) 1974-06-19
DE2147580B2 (de) 1976-01-29
CA942084A (en) 1974-02-19

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Effective date: 19890601