US3688326A - Method of manufacturing leather goods and the like - Google Patents

Method of manufacturing leather goods and the like Download PDF

Info

Publication number
US3688326A
US3688326A US126042A US3688326DA US3688326A US 3688326 A US3688326 A US 3688326A US 126042 A US126042 A US 126042A US 3688326D A US3688326D A US 3688326DA US 3688326 A US3688326 A US 3688326A
Authority
US
United States
Prior art keywords
former
diaphragm
shape
pieces
vacuum
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
US126042A
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Raymond Charles White
William Frank Walker
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of US3688326A publication Critical patent/US3688326A/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

Links

Images

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D8/00—Machines for cutting, ornamenting, marking or otherwise working up shoe part blanks
    • A43D8/02—Cutting-out
    • A43D8/10—Cutting-out using pattern grading
    • A43D8/12—Patterns or templates therefor
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D8/00—Machines for cutting, ornamenting, marking or otherwise working up shoe part blanks
    • A43D8/02—Cutting-out
    • A43D8/04—Stamping-out
    • A43D8/06—Dies therefor
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D8/00—Machines for cutting, ornamenting, marking or otherwise working up shoe part blanks
    • A43D8/26—Marking for future work
    • A43D8/28—Patterns for drawing cut-outs

Definitions

  • the invention is particularly useful in the manufacture of boots and shoes but may be applied to the manufacture of other types of leather goods. Similarly it may be applied to the manufacture of boots and shoes or other goods which are made from synthetic plastics, bonded fiber, paper or other materials which simulate leather. The term or the like" is used to embrace all these variations.
  • the method as generally practiced at present is first to construct the upper and for this purpose shaped pieces are cut from a sheet of leather or the like.
  • One or more of the pieces may be partly preformed, that is, shaped by treating each piece with heat and/or steam, or otherwise, to make it readily deformable, and then clamping it in a shaped die.
  • the pieces are then sewn or bonded together so that a substantially complete upper is provided, and linings are attached to the inside surface if desired.
  • a last of the shape of shoe to be made has an insole attached to it, the upper is placed upon it and the assembly is placed in a machine in which the edges of the upper are pulled underneath the edges of the last and over the insole.
  • Heating, which may be high frequency, and/or conditioning by steam, may be applied so that when the operation has been completed the upper conforms to the shape ofthe last.
  • edges of the upper which have been pulled under the last vary considerably in width and are creased and puckered, and they are attached to the under surface of the insole, usually by nailing or adhesives.
  • the uneven, creased and puckered edges of the piece at the under surface of the last are next ground away so that the creases and puckers disappear and the edges are roughened to accept an adhesive for sole attachment.
  • the principal object of the invention is to provide a simplified and improved method of manufacture of footwear, such as boots and shoes, and other leather goods and the like, in which the number of operations necessary is reduced and a minimum number of formers is used to produce an article, which article conforms more accurately to the desired shape and is better adapted to mass production.
  • the invention consists of a method of manufacturing goods made of a material such as leather or a leather substitute or like material comprising the steps of providing a former having the shape and size to which it is desired to form the material, cutting a piece of the material in flat form to a shape such that when formed over the former it will have the desired shape and dimensions, conditioning the material so that it will readily deform when drawn over the former, suspending the piece of material in juxtaposition to the former, placing a flexible and expansible diaphragm near the outside of the material so that the material lies between the former and the diaphragm, moving the material into contact with the former and moving the diaphragm into contact with the material so that the material is interleaved between the former and the diaphragm and is held in accurate location with respect to the former, removing the means by which the material is suspended, and applying a vacuum between the former and the diaphragm so that the diaphragm and the material are closely drawn around the former.
  • the former is fixed to a horizontal table having a peripheral vacuum sealing edge
  • the material is suspended above the former in a horizontal plane by means of finger clamps, retaining pins, clips, adhesive, vacuum or pressure depending upon the material being used and the final shape, which are disengaged and withdrawn after the material has been held in its correct location between the former and the diaphragm, and the diaphragm is attached to a horizontal frame having a lower vacuum sealing edge around the periphery of its underside which engages the peripheral sealing edge of the table when the frame is lowered.
  • FIG. 1 is a diagrammatic elevation partly in section, of the apparatus used to carry out the method
  • FIG. 2 is a view of a piece of material cut to a shape which, when formed, will provide an article having the desired shape and dimensions;
  • FIG. 3 is a view of the bottom of a shoe upper
  • FIG. 4 is a side elevation of a support for a fore-part former
  • FIG. Si is a side elevation of the support of FIG. 4;
  • FIG. 6 is a plan view of the support of FIGS. 4 and 5;
  • FIG. 7 is a pictorial view of the former, support and diaphragm for a former for producing full backs of shoes;
  • FIG. 8 is a wide elevation of the former shown in FIG. 7;
  • FIG. 9 is an end elevation of the former of FIG. 8, also showing the diaphragm.
  • FIG. 10 is an enlarged view of a small part of the diaphragm support of FIGS. 7 and 9 showing how the diaphragm is clamped in position.
  • a suitable apparatus for carrying out the invention in relation to the manufacture of shoes comprises a horizontal table 11 having an upstanding peripheral edge 12 whose upper surface 13 will, in conjunction with a mating surface, form a vacuum seal.
  • a former, generally indicated by reference 14, is so shaped as to define the fore-parts of two shoe uppers joined together, one being indicated by reference 15 and the other by reference 16.
  • FIG. 2 shows the shape of a piece 19 of material for a particular shape and size of shoe, drawn to a larger scale than FIG. 1. It includes a tongue portion 20, and the points at which finger clamps may be attached are shown dotted at 21, 22 and 23.
  • a frame, generally indicated at 29, is of the same overall size as the peripheral portion 12 of the table 11 and has a lower surface 30 which, when engaged with the surface 13, will form a vacuum seal.
  • Clamped in the frame 29 is a diaphragm 31 which is made of a flexible and expansible material such as rubber latex.
  • the pieces are conditioned, by heating if purely thermoplastic, or by the application of moist heat, for example by steaming, so that they will readily distort and conform to the shape of the former.
  • a carrier by which the finger clamps, and hence the pieces of material, are carried is lowered until the pieces of material touch the former at one or more points.
  • the frame 29 is then lowered until the diaphragm 31 is in contact with the pieces of material so that the material is nipped and lightly held in its correct location.
  • the finger clamps are then removed and the frame 29 is lowered until the surface 30 engages the surface 13 to provide a vacuum seal. Vacuum is applied so that the diaphragm is drawn downwardly and forms and draws the pieces of material closely around the former and turns the edges over to lie against a marginal undersurface of the former at 32.
  • the apparatus is then left for a time sufiicient for the pieces of material to cool, whereupon the vacuum may be released and the apparatus opened to allow removal of the formed fore-parts or varnps.
  • FIG. 3 shows a view of the bottom of a formed vamp, the shape showing only the marginal or edge portion 33 which is formed against the marginal undersurface 32 of the former.
  • An important characteristic of this marginal portion is that it is of uniform width and accurately shaped, which simplifies later operations in the manufacture of the shoes.
  • the shape of upper shown in FIG. 3 has deliberately been chosen as one which includes rather sharp bends.
  • small nicks, indicated at 34 may be made in the pieces when they are first cut to shape.
  • the portion of the margin at 35 will be turned into the position shown dotted at 36 when the upper is placed on a foot former for a subsequent operation, such as welding on of a sole, and nicks 37 may be provided to ensure that there is no puckering as the part is turned in.
  • nicks 37 may be provided to ensure that there is no puckering as the part is turned in.
  • other components of a shoe upper may also be formed, singly or in pairs or other multiples, by the use of appropriate formers.
  • the support for the former is generally indicated by reference 38, the former being indicated in dotted lines at 39.
  • the support has the general shape of the former but is cut back all round.
  • the upper contour is indicated at 40 and 41 and, as shown at 42 and 43, the ends are sloped, the sides of the support being also sloped, as indicated at 44 and 45.
  • the contour as seen in plan is indicated in FIGS. 5 and 6, the contour of the upper surface of the support being shown at 46 and the contour of the lower surface being shown at 47.
  • FIG. 7 is a pictorial view of the former and diaphragm for forming full backs for a pair of shoes, which may or may not have a vertical seam at the rear.
  • the base of the former is indicated at 48.
  • Two end pieces, respectively 49 and 50, are shaped to make a vacuum tight joint with a curved portion 51 at each end of a framework 53 which supports the diaphragm 52.
  • the framework 53 is in two parts to enable the edges of the diaphragm to be clamped between them and the framework is so shaped that the configuration of the diaphragm suits the shape of the former.
  • One support 54 by which the framework 53 is carried is shown.
  • the other supports and a number of clamping screws have been omitted in FIG. 7 but are shown in later Figures.
  • the former itself consists of two parts, respectively 55 and 56, which are joined together, and an elevation of the former parts 55 and 56 is shown in FIG. 8, the diaphragm and its supporting framework being omitted in the last
  • the former parts 55 and 56 are formed to produce two full backs, one for a right shoe and one for a left shoe.
  • the end pieces 49 and 50 are shown and it will be observed that the former parts 55 and 56 are provided with end supports, respectively 57 and 58, which are shaped in such a manner that the diaphragm is not excessively stretched and at the same time will not become crinkled when it is drawn over the former parts 55 and 56.
  • the base 48 of the former is also shown in FIG. 8. The manner in which vacuum may be applied will be obvious from the foregoing description of FIG. 1.
  • FiG. 9 is an end view of the former assembly of FIGS. 7 and 8 and shows the diaphragm with its framework.
  • the base 48, end piece 50 and the former part 56 are shown in FIG. 9, together with the framework 53 which is in two mating parts to enable the diaphragm to be clamped between them by means of nuts on the supports 54, of which there are four, and additional screws and wingnuts 59.
  • One end of the framework 53 is shown drawn to a slightly larger scale in FIG. 10. This includes one of the supports 54 and screws and wingnuts 59 which are placed at intervals around the framework 53 so that the diaphragm 52 may be securely clamped. it will be noted from FIGS.
  • the diaphragm 52 is not necessarily stretched when in the framework 53 and it may be advantageous in fixing the diaphragm into the framework 53 to leave it somewhat slacker or looser in some places than in others, depending upon the shape of the mould and the amount of stretching to which different parts of the diaphragm will be subjected in actual operation. Attention to such matters increases the life of the diaphragm when in actual operation.
  • parts for other kinds of leather goods or the like may be formed by the use of the method according to the invention.
  • a method of manufacturing goods made of a material such as leather or a leather substitute or like material comprising the steps of providing a former having the shape and size to which it is desired to form the material, cutting a piece of the material in flat form to a shape such that when formed over the former it will have the desired shape and dimensions, conditioning the material so that it will readily deform when drawn over the former, suspending the piece of material in juxtaposition to the former, placing a flexible and expansible diaphragm near the outside of the material so that the material lies between the former and the diaphragm, moving the material into contact with the former and moving the diaphragm into contact with the material so that the material is interleaved between the former and the diaphragm and is held in accurate location with respect to the former, removing the means by which the material is suspended, and applying a vacuum between the former and the diaphragm so that the diaphragm and the material are closely drawn around the former.
  • a method as claimed in claim 1 comprising the step of making a former having the shape and size of a plurality of pieces of material, cutting the said plurality of pieces of material, suspending the plurality of pieces of material in correct location with respect to the former and to each oth r moving the material and diaphragm so that each 0 the plura ity of pieces is held in accurate location with respect to the former, whereby the application of vacuum will cause all the pieces of material to be closely drawn around the respective areas of the former.
  • a method as claimed in claim 1 comprising the step of so placing the diaphragm that its initial configuration if accommodated to the shape of the former.
  • a method as claimed in claim 1 comprising the step of forming the or each piece of material with apertures and suspending the material by means of removable clips which engage the aperture.

Landscapes

  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Blow-Moulding Or Thermoforming Of Plastics Or The Like (AREA)
US126042A 1970-04-13 1971-03-19 Method of manufacturing leather goods and the like Expired - Lifetime US3688326A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB1738470A GB1306743A (en) 1970-04-13 1970-04-13 Method of manufacturing leather goods and the like

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
US3688326A true US3688326A (en) 1972-09-05

Family

ID=10094250

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US126042A Expired - Lifetime US3688326A (en) 1970-04-13 1971-03-19 Method of manufacturing leather goods and the like

Country Status (17)

Country Link
US (1) US3688326A (enExample)
AT (1) AT330027B (enExample)
BE (1) BE765664A (enExample)
BR (1) BR7102118D0 (enExample)
CA (1) CA940667A (enExample)
CY (1) CY701A (enExample)
DE (1) DE2116051A1 (enExample)
ES (2) ES389664A1 (enExample)
FR (1) FR2090502A5 (enExample)
GB (1) GB1306743A (enExample)
IE (1) IE35114B1 (enExample)
IL (1) IL36501A (enExample)
MY (1) MY7400084A (enExample)
NL (1) NL7104863A (enExample)
RO (1) RO61664A (enExample)
SE (1) SE379924B (enExample)
ZA (1) ZA711984B (enExample)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN115530487A (zh) * 2022-09-15 2022-12-30 福建美克休闲体育用品有限公司 一种具有防护作用的工作鞋的制作方法

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3397418A (en) * 1962-11-18 1968-08-20 Soundwell Invest Ltd Methods of assembly of footwear uppers
US3445873A (en) * 1964-11-18 1969-05-27 Shoe & Allied Trades Res Ass Methods and apparatus for forming and preforming shoe upper foreparts

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3397418A (en) * 1962-11-18 1968-08-20 Soundwell Invest Ltd Methods of assembly of footwear uppers
US3445873A (en) * 1964-11-18 1969-05-27 Shoe & Allied Trades Res Ass Methods and apparatus for forming and preforming shoe upper foreparts

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN115530487A (zh) * 2022-09-15 2022-12-30 福建美克休闲体育用品有限公司 一种具有防护作用的工作鞋的制作方法
CN115530487B (zh) * 2022-09-15 2024-06-04 福建美克休闲体育用品有限公司 一种具有防护作用的工作鞋的制作方法

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
IL36501A (en) 1974-10-22
BE765664A (fr) 1971-10-13
BR7102118D0 (pt) 1973-05-03
ES389664A1 (es) 1974-03-01
MY7400084A (en) 1974-12-31
ATA305771A (de) 1975-08-15
SE379924B (enExample) 1975-10-27
NL7104863A (enExample) 1971-10-15
IL36501A0 (en) 1971-05-26
CA940667A (en) 1974-01-29
DE2116051A1 (de) 1971-10-28
CY701A (en) 1973-09-14
ES397050A1 (es) 1974-05-01
IE35114B1 (en) 1975-11-12
ZA711984B (en) 1971-12-29
RO61664A (enExample) 1977-06-15
FR2090502A5 (enExample) 1972-01-14
IE35114L (en) 1971-10-13
GB1306743A (en) 1973-02-14
AT330027B (de) 1976-06-10

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
US3720971A (en) Shoe making
CN108143051B (zh) 制造完全成形鞋面的方法
US20150342296A1 (en) Thermoforming footwear method
US3803655A (en) Apparatus for manufacturing leather goods and the like
US7451991B2 (en) Ice skate boot
US2002527A (en) Method of securing a preformed and continuous sheet of unvulcanized rubber to a portion of a fabric upper
US2058880A (en) Embossing apparatus
US2731654A (en) Method of covering articles
US3688326A (en) Method of manufacturing leather goods and the like
US2330273A (en) Manufacture of sandals
CZ278552B6 (en) Process for producing footwear and apparatus for making the same
US2301785A (en) Apparatus for the manufacture of shoes
EP0021656A3 (en) Method and apparatus for forming moulded articles from a blank sheet and insole thus produced
US2015656A (en) Method of covering articles
US1158389A (en) Art of manufacturing rubber footwear.
US3406468A (en) Shoe with cushion insole
US2245466A (en) Footwear
US3258860A (en) Electronically heat sealed foot covering
US1386654A (en) Method of making shoes
US948300A (en) Method of making shoes, sandals, and the like.
US3005218A (en) Sole applying method for shoes and other footwear
US3273185A (en) Method of making an electronically heat sealed foot covering
US2259566A (en) Machine for treating shoes
US1585284A (en) Process of and apparatus for making shoe forms
US1131873A (en) Shoemaking-machine.