US357016A - isaac h - Google Patents

Description

- in Fig. 1.

ably shaped) before being seained in with the UNITED STATES PATENT i OFFICE. i

ISAAC H. MAMBERT, OF LANSINGBURG, ASSIGNOR TO ED ELISHA MACK,

' OF ALBANY, NEW YORK.

SHIRT.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 357.016, dated February 1, 1887.

Application mea April s, isst. serial No. 161,171. (No model.) i

To all `whom t may concern.:

Be it known that l, ISAAC' H. MAMBERT, a citizen of the United States, residing at Lansingburg, in the county ot' Rensselaer and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sleeves of Shirts, of which thefollowing is a speciticationl My invention relates to improvements in sleeves ot'V shirts in which the rear or elbow side of the sleeve is made with doubly/ply or two thicknesses of material at the place in which the elbow of the weareris covered.

The objects of my' improvements are to strengthen the elbown side -of the sleeve, and to provide means by which the rear side of the sleeve will have its strain and wear received on twoplies of material, instead of on one thickness, as heretofore. I attain these objects by the means illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure l is a view of the sleeve from its rear or elbow side, and illustrating my improvements.' Fig. 2 is a view of the sleeve from its oft' outer sidewith outer rear side broken and exposing the inner-ply piece. Fig. 3 is a sectional view taken in cross direction at line 1 Fig. 4 is a plan'view of a piece of fabric cut so as to include all the portions or parts of the sleeve before seamed together. Fig. 5 is a plan view of the portions forming the front and rear sides of the sleeve. Fig. 6 is a plan view of the inner-ply piece (preferfront and rear side portions of the sleeve.

The same letters of reference refer to like parts `and elements inthe severalviews.

A is the sleeve of a shirt or other garment. A is the Wristband. A2 is the facing-piece covering the sleeve-opening. In this sleeve, a represents the rear or elbow slide of the same, to which my improvements are applied. b is the fore sideof .the same. c is the inner or body side, and d is the off outer side. (See Fig. 3.) Y

, The elbow or rear side, a, is inadewith two plies ortwo thicknesses of material, the outer one represented by a and the inner one by a?, which latter is scanned in with the fore side piece, bf, and the outer rear side piece, a', by stitchingss, and has itslower end edge seamed to the outer rear sideportion, a', by stitchings s.

The usual parts of the sleeve, a and b', may be cnt so as to be in Aone piece, as illustrated in Fig. 4, from line z to edgeline y, or be made to consist of separate pieces, as shown in Fig.5.

The inner rear side piece, ai, may be cnt with the piece including portions a b', so as to extend from line z to edge line w, as shown in Fig. 4, or may be cut as a separate piece, as shown in Fig. 6.

When the fabric is eut to include in one piece the front portion, b', rear side portion, e', and the inner rear portion, a2, the latter portion, a2, will be folded from dotted linez on portion a', with its edge x toward line w,

and to near the same as to line ein Fig. 4. The lportion b will then be folded from linew on the turned-down inner rear side piece, a, with its edge y brought to folding line z, when the edges and folds of these several portions will be seamed together by stitchings s s, as shown in Figs. l and 3, and the lower end edge of 'portion a2 will be seamed to the substance of portion a by stitchings s', as shown. If preferred, this lower end of the inner portion, a2,

may be extended down to tliewristband, or near to the same, and in all cases it is to extend down past the point which will be opposite to the ball o f the elbow of the wearer.

When the sleeve is formed of separate pieces 8o a', b', and a'", as cut in Figs. 5 and 6, piecea.2

will be laid on piece a, with edge x near edge w' and edge x at z', and with piece b' laid over said piece a', with edges y and e together and sewed in with each other, respectively, as shown at s sin Figs. l and 3.

If preferred, a singlepiece may be cut to include portions a and b of the sleeve, while 'w'l wIl coinciding, when' these pieces will be 85 piece a2 may be made to be a single and sepa- 9o rate piece, as shown in Fig. 6; or the outer' rear side piece or portion of the sleeve may be cut attached to the innei` rear side portion, a, while the portion b may be cut out in a separate piece, when the several pieces or X portions of this sleeve will be seanied together by stitchings s s and s', as above described.

l The drawings show that the re-enforcing piece a2 is made to taper in its length from its upper end toward its lower end, and thatit is applied to the inner side of the sleeve on piece a; yet it is evident that this piece d2 can be ICO ' arment while niece a would receive the wear of the sleeve of the under-garment of the wearer.

By my above-described improvements the rear side portion of the sleeve (which heretofore received all the wear on a single ply of material from its outside, and also from its inner side) is made to receive the wear on two plies or thicknesses of fabric, especially at the elbow, where lthe wear on the sleeve is more rapid, and where the strain is the greatest, and the inner side piece or ply, a2, is made to y receive all the wear from the person of the wearer or sleeve of his under-garment, while the outer ply or piece, a', only receives the wear from the sleeve of the coat of the wearer, or other article exterior to the sleeve, and the strain at the ball of the elbow of the wearer on the sleeve, resulting from the working of the wearers arms, will be borne by both plies orfpieces, and the rear side portion of the sleeve will be made to last as long and be in as good condition as its front side portion.

I am aware that it has long been the practice in repairing the worn portions of the sleeves of shirts and other garments to apply patches to the same over the worn portion; but such patches form no part of my invention and are not claimed by me, as they are not rc1-enforcing pieces to the rear side portion of sleeves for receiving only a portion of the wear or strain on the same, but serve only as a repair-piece to cover over a hole already worn or a thin place produced by wear, and receive all the wear and strain before taken by the single piece of fabric originally made with or used in the sleeve.

The distinguishing feature in my improved sleeve is the piece a2, having a length which will extend it from the shoulder to past the elbow and toward or near the Wristband, and a width which will extend cach way past the rear, receiving excessive wear at the elbow, and which is secured in with the other pieces at its end and side edges at the time the garment is made. i

Having described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by4 Letters Patent, 1s-

1. A shirt having sleeves which are provided with a re-enforcing layer extending in diminishing width from shoulder toward the Wristband and secured to the rear side portion of said sleeve, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

2. A shirt the sleeves of which are provided on their rear side portions, a', with a re-cnvforcing layer which is extended downwardly from the shoulder and past the elbow to the Wristband or lower end of the sleeve, and has all its edge margins secured by stitchings to said vrear side portions, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

ISAAC H. MAMBERT.

Witnesses:

W. M. TrcKNoR, CHARLEs SELKIRK.

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