US3414923A - Moccasin manufacture - Google Patents

Moccasin manufacture Download PDF

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Publication number
US3414923A
US3414923A US347472A US34747264A US3414923A US 3414923 A US3414923 A US 3414923A US 347472 A US347472 A US 347472A US 34747264 A US34747264 A US 34747264A US 3414923 A US3414923 A US 3414923A
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United States
Prior art keywords
vamp
edge
plug
moccasin
draw string
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Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
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US347472A
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English (en)
Inventor
Henri E Rosen
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Individual
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Individual
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Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Priority to US347472A priority Critical patent/US3414923A/en
Priority to FR6892A priority patent/FR1428190A/fr
Priority to BE660184D priority patent/BE660184A/xx
Priority to GB7999/65A priority patent/GB1107042A/en
Priority to NL6502495A priority patent/NL6502495A/xx
Priority to CH269265A priority patent/CH492413A/fr
Priority to DE1965R0039999 priority patent/DE1485997A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of US3414923A publication Critical patent/US3414923A/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B3/00—Footwear characterised by the shape or the use
    • A43B3/14—Moccasins, opanken, or like shoes

Definitions

  • a method of forming a moccasin forepart including a toe from an outer upper vamp element with an upper outer edge of one length turned inwardly and shortend for joining with a shorter outer edge of an outer upper plug element including the steps of: sewing to vamp said element two control thread elements including a drawstring element applied to one side of the vamp element generally parallel thereto adjacent to its edge and an attaching thread element applied to the vamp element adjacent to its edge around said drawstring element maintaining said drawstring element in its position; molding said vamp element around the outside of a last by holding said outer edge of the vamp element on the last and pulling the ends of the drawstring element to shorten said outer edge of the vamp element to substantially the shorter length of the said plug element edge to be joined thereto, said control thread elements restraining said vamp element edge against excessive puckering and outward movement while it is being shortened by the drawstring element; and joining the shortened vamp element edge to the outer edge of said outer upper plug element by machine stitch
  • My invention relates to the manufacture of footwear such as shoes, boots, sandals and slippers and is particularly concerned with an improved method or process for making footwear having the moccasin type of construction and appearance, particularly in the forepart of the shoe, but in some cases, in the heel section as well.
  • This type of footwear may be made with or without an added sole, and/ or heel to provide additional features of style, wear, support and comfort.
  • this construction is applicable to footwear made of leather, plastic, fabric, or any of the usual materials used in a footwear manufacture.
  • the original true or genuine moccasin was and is a shoe or slipper that has its bottom and sides ordinarily, but not necessarily, of one piece of leather or other suitable material, hereinafter called the vamp, which is joined along the edges of its forepart to the edges of a U-shaped piece or plug lying on the top of the forepart of the foot.
  • the patterns of the leather or other upper and plug materials involved are such that that section of the vamp edge which is to be joined to the plug edge is greater in overall length than the corresponding section of the plug to which it is to be joined, necessitating a shortening of that section of the vamp to a length ap proximately the same as the plug edge to which it is to be joined.
  • This shortening may or may not be accompanied by a puckering of the vamp material, the nature and extent of this puckering depending somewhat on the compressibility of the vamp material, and the degree of shortening involved.
  • Moccasins of other than the genuine moccasin construction have been made by using patterns usually but not necessarily of multiple pieces where the vamp edges are essentially th same length as the plug edges to which they are to be joined, but in such constructions the cupping of the vamp which accompanies the edge shortening in the genuine moccasin is missing and the resulting product usually does not have the characteristic look or shaperetentive qualities after wearing that the genuine moccasin construction affords.
  • the principal object of the present invention is to provide an improved method for the manufacture of footwear having a moccasin-type forepart, a method that is economical and rapid.
  • a related object is to provide such a method to manufacture footwear having the genuine moccasin forepart construction without sacrificing appearance or quality of the articles produced.
  • Another object of this invention is to provide a method for uniformly shortening the edge of a piece of leather or similar material for use in manufacturing a moccasin toe or for like purposes in leather working.
  • FIG. 1 is a plan view showing the inside of an exemplary main body or vamp blank, inthe flat, from which a moccasin type shoe will be made;
  • FIG. 2 is a plan view showing the inside of a corresponding plug blank piece, in the fiat, to be used with the vamp piece of FIG. 1 in making the exemplary moccasin type shoe;
  • FIG. 3 is a perspective view showing the vamp of FIG. 1 with its ends joined together and a piece added at the back to form the heel portion of the upper, and a collar or cutf added to what will become an ankle opening at the top of the shoe;
  • FIG. 4 is an enlarged perspective like a portion of FIG. 3, showning one way of slidably securing a shortening draw string to the partially formed vamp;
  • FIG. 5 is an enlarged perspective of a portion of the partially formed vamp showing another and preferred way of slidably securing a draw string near the plugjoining edge;
  • FIG. 6 is a perspective view showing the vamp applied to a shaping form or last and the vamp edge shortened where it will be jointed to the plug, by tightening the draw string;
  • FIG. 7 is an exploded perspective of a shoe body with shortened and set vamp edge and a plug therefor, about to be fiitted anl held together at their edges;
  • FIG. 8 is a perspective view of a vamp and plug fitter and held together and in the process of being permanently joined at their edges to complete the upper;
  • FIG. 9 is a magnified edge side view of a vamp, partly in section, showing a further improvement detail used with the arrangement of FIG. 5;
  • FIG. 10 is a sectional top perspective view of the improved vamp edge of FIG. 9.
  • the method of this invention will be described in connection with the manufacture of a leather shoe of the moccasin type by way of illustrative example. It is spoken of as a shoe because it is intended to have a separate outer sole and a heel that may be added later following completion of the shoe upper or body.
  • the present method may with equal facility be used in the manufacture of true moccasins or slippers having the bottom of the vamp serve as the outer sole.
  • vamp 10 shown in plan view in FIG. 1
  • plug 12 shown in plan view in FIG. 2.
  • vamp 10 shows the inner faces of the pieces in fiat condition as they might appear after being cut from the leather or other sheet material being used for the shoe.
  • Other pieces may be used, such as cuffs, backstays, trim, etc., but these are not the principal or main pieces of the shoe upper.
  • the inner surface of the vamp may be and preferably is skived at its outer edge to a sharp point in a usual fashion and the outer U-shaped edge of the plug also may be and preferably is skived, at least where it is expected to be joined to the vamp, so that a neat seam will be produced.
  • the heel portion of the vamp is completed as by an added piece or a back seam or in any other suitable fashion and an edge trim or cuff 14 is applied around that portion of the vamp which will become the sides and back of the ankle opening. This leaves the entire front portion of the outer edge of the vamp blank free and exposed, this being the area indicated by the number 16 in FIG. 1 of the drawings.
  • vamp edge 16 is considerably longer than the plug edge 18 to be joined to it.
  • heel is usually formed and the cuff added. It is at this stage of manufacture that the method of the present invention begins.
  • the method of the present invention starts with the step of shaping or molding the vamp and shortening the entire vamp edge where it will be joined to the plug.
  • this shaping of the vamp and shortening of the vamp edge is accomplished by applying a draw string 20 to the edge of the vamp, positioning the shoe vamp on a form or last L and then pulling on the draw string to shape or mold the vamp and vamp edge evenly around the last as indicated generally in FIG. 6.
  • the outer free edge of the vamp body is turned upwardly and is molded and shortened by holding it inwardly around and against the form or last.
  • the draw string 20 When using a draw string to shape the vamp and shorten the vamp edge, the draw string 20 may be secured and guided slidably at or near the edge of the vamp and preferably spaced inwardly therefrom as by overedge stitching 22 shown in FIG. 4, this type of stitch preferably being accomplished by machines readily available. However, it is preferred that the draw string is secured and guided positively along such an inwardly spaced position generally parallel to the vamp edge by using as a shortening stitch a machine-made lock stitch in which the draw string 20 constitutes the bobbin thread with the tension of the threads set so that the bobbin thread does not go into the material at all but lies on one side as seen in FIG. 5, the guide threads 24 constituting the needle thread of this two-thread machine stitch.
  • this shortening stitch may be made by adjusting the tension of the threads so that the needle thread will act as the draw string, the bobbin providing the guide thread loops.
  • the draw string is preferably of heavy Dacron cord or an equivalent.
  • the guide thread lock stitch loops 22 or 24 are critically tensioned to hold the draw string against the material but permit it to slide through said lock stitch loops and along the vamp surface. The requirement is to hold the vamp securely and properly against a form or last while restraining its outer surface from outward movement away from said form or last and so, compressively to shorten the entire length of the vamp edge, without undesirable bunching, puckering, or stretching at some point or points.
  • the leather may need to be wet or mulled first so that it may be readily formed and worked, before placing the shoe vamp on the form or last.
  • the last used need not be a complete last but may be a form that serves to support and shape only the toe portion of the shoe where the vamp edge is to be shortened. Some types of material may not require the wetting before molding or shortening of the edge, and in such cases the wetting is of course eliminated.
  • the entire shortened edge is set or held in its desired shortened dimension and shape.
  • the edge 16 should be carefully checked to be sure it is of substantially the same length and approximately the same shape as the plug edge 18 that will be joined thereto.
  • Guide markings may be provided on the form to indicate when the proper shaping and shortening is reached. In the exemplary shoe, a desired shortening by tightening a draw string is shown in FIG.
  • the leather or other material has been wet or treated previously, it is then allowed to dry or force to dry for about one-quarter of an inch inwardly at the edge while being held on or otf the last in its shortened condition, so that the shortened edge will the set and hold its dimension and general shape.
  • the drying or setting could be carried beyond one-quarter of an inch from the edge but this is all that is required before the next step in manufacture takes place.
  • Vamp bodies in this state may be accumulated in quantity for later joining of a stock of plug pieces thereto, each of these bodies having its outer free edge at the toe portion formed upwardly and inwardly over the rest of the body and having its entire length evenly shortened and held to a fixed length substantially shorter than its original length to match the uniform lengths of the edges of the plugs to which they are to be joined.
  • vamp edge With the vamp edge now shortened along its entire length as above described, and set or held in its shortened condition, the draw string 20 with the guiding threads 22 or 24 and clips 26 (if used) may be removed from the vamp.
  • the vamp and plug are then fitted together around their entire edges to be joined and are held together in this position.
  • a preferred method of accomplishing this holding is by first applying an adhesive cement C to the shortened edges of the vamp or to the edges of the plug or to the edges of both vamp and plug. After application of the cement to the edge or edges, the parts are carefully fitted together in the position in which it is desired that they be permanently secured, and are pressed together. The cement temponarily holds the pieces in their final position so that they may be later permanently joined by stitching, if stitching is to be used for the permanent fastening at this seam.
  • the fitting and holding step is followed by permanently joining the plug and vamp together by stitching 28 extending between the outside surfaces of the plug and vamp across their contacting surfaces, using a machine for accomplishing the stitching, there being conventional machines available that may be modified so as to do this with facility.
  • hand stitching 28 could be employed at this'stage but it could be performed by an operator relatively untrained because the uniform gathering and shortening of the vamp edge has already been accomplished throughout its length and the two parts are previously fitted and temporarily held by the cement in their relative positions for permanent joining.
  • the ends of the seam may be strengthened by bar tacking or a whip stitch applied at the corner of the plug and vamp by hand or by machine in the usual way.
  • the completed shoe body is placed in a mulling chamber in unlasted condition to temper the leather and put some moisture back in it.
  • This final forming may not be necessary depending upon the material from which the shoe is made, but when it is required or desired, the final last may be placed in the shoe after mulling and the shoe body may be force dried under heat in a much shorter time than if the shoe were completely soaked. The shoe may be air dried on the last in a somewhat longer period.
  • any draw string holding thread holes that may be left in the leather may be covered or hidden by the final stitching or sewing used to secure the two parts together.
  • the draw string and its supporting and guiding thread need not be removed after edge shortening but may be left in place throughout the fitting :and holding step, and removed or trimmed 01f after permanently joining the vamp and plug together at their edges, with the permanent joining seam or stitching made inwardly of the thread that holds the draw string.
  • the draw string and holding thread may be left in place on the finished shoe and provide an ornamental bead.
  • FIGS. 9 and 10 show a further improvement in one step of the method of shortening an edge, especially when using a lock stitch like that of FIG. 5 to provide the guide and support for a draw string.
  • the machine producing the lock stitch in this refinement is equipped with a small dull blade segment or rounded edge attached to the needle bar and extending horizontally from a position close to the needle outwardly in a direction at right angles to the line or course of stitches 24 being produced.
  • This blade or edge is set at such a height with respect to the needle end that at the same time the needle stitch is made and when the full depth of stroke of the needle is reached, the blade or edge will press upon and squeeze the material against the sewing table or anvil of the machine and form one of a series of regularly spaced indentations or grooves 30 in the face of the vamp material next to the needle hole.
  • Each impressed groove 30 extends at right angles from a position near the line of stitches 24, opposite the draw string 20, to the edge, as seen in FIG. 10. Thereafter, when the draw string is tightened in shortening the edge, the indentations cause the edge to fold more readily at these points, producing a uniform puckering or gathering of the edge that is remarkable in its smoothness and regularity.
  • a method of forming a moccasin forepart including a toe from an outer upper vamp element with an upper outer edge of one length turned inwardly and shortened for joining with a shorter outer edge of an outer upper plug element, including the steps of machine sewing to said vamp element two control thread elements including a drawstring element applied to one side of the vamp element generally parallel thereto adjacent to its edge and an attaching thread element applied to the vamp element adjacent to its edge around said drawstring element maintaining said drawstring element in its position,
  • said machine stitching extends between the outer surfaces of the plug and vamp elements across their contacting surfaces, and is generally parallel to and spaced from their joined edges providing an exposed joined edge free of crossing stitching.
  • control thread elements are removed from said vamp element after forming said vamp element.
  • a method of forming a moccasin. forepart including a toe from an outer upper vamp element with an upper outer edge of one length turned inwardly and shortened 5.
  • a method as claimed in claim 4 wherein:
  • vamp element for joining with a shorter outer edge of an outer upper said vamp and plug upper element edges are skived and plug element, including the steps of butted to one another and machine sewing to said vamp element two control said control thread elements are removed from said thread elements cooperating in a machine lock-stitch vamp element after the forming of said vamp relationship including a drawstring element applied element. to one side of the vamp element generally parallel 6.
  • a method as claimed in claim 5 further including thereto adjacent to its edge and an attaching thread impressing a series of grooves in the surface of said element applied to the other side of the vamp elevamp element simultaneously with the application of ment adjacent to and spaced from its edge with 10 said lock-stitched thread control elements, with said intermittent surface portions of said attaching thread grooves extending to the edge of said vamp element element lying along said other side of said vamp eleat right angles to said thread control elements.

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  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
US347472A 1964-02-26 1964-02-26 Moccasin manufacture Expired - Lifetime US3414923A (en)

Priority Applications (7)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US347472A US3414923A (en) 1964-02-26 1964-02-26 Moccasin manufacture
FR6892A FR1428190A (fr) 1964-02-26 1965-02-24 Procédé de fabrication de chaussures ayant la forme de mocassins
BE660184D BE660184A (en, 2012) 1964-02-26 1965-02-24
GB7999/65A GB1107042A (en) 1964-02-26 1965-02-24 Moccasin manufacture
NL6502495A NL6502495A (en, 2012) 1964-02-26 1965-02-26
CH269265A CH492413A (fr) 1964-02-26 1965-02-26 Procédé de fabrication de mocassins
DE1965R0039999 DE1485997A1 (de) 1964-02-26 1965-02-26 Verfahren zur Herstellung von Schuhwerk

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US347472A US3414923A (en) 1964-02-26 1964-02-26 Moccasin manufacture

Publications (1)

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US3414923A true US3414923A (en) 1968-12-10

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US347472A Expired - Lifetime US3414923A (en) 1964-02-26 1964-02-26 Moccasin manufacture

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US (1) US3414923A (en, 2012)
BE (1) BE660184A (en, 2012)
CH (1) CH492413A (en, 2012)
DE (1) DE1485997A1 (en, 2012)
FR (1) FR1428190A (en, 2012)
GB (1) GB1107042A (en, 2012)
NL (1) NL6502495A (en, 2012)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4003145A (en) * 1974-08-01 1977-01-18 Ro-Search, Inc. Footwear
US5933897A (en) * 1998-03-06 1999-08-10 Macdonald; Bruce Method of forming waterproof stitched connections during shoe manufacture

Citations (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US436550A (en) * 1890-09-16 Method of lasting boots or shoes
US495455A (en) * 1893-04-11 Patrick cunningham
US910677A (en) * 1909-01-26 Jeremiah M Hanson Shoe.
US966551A (en) * 1908-03-25 1910-08-09 A T Austin Footwear-former.
US1002731A (en) * 1910-07-05 1911-09-05 Andrew F Mitchell Shoe-upper.
US1421474A (en) * 1922-03-17 1922-07-04 Hirshfield Morris Blank for slippers
US2234543A (en) * 1938-11-15 1941-03-11 United Shoe Machinery Corp Manufacture of moccasins
CH287543A (it) * 1950-05-13 1952-12-15 Elio Calzaturificio Scarpa e procedimento di sua fabbricazione.
US2866211A (en) * 1955-07-26 1958-12-30 Lowell Counter Company Method of making footwear of the mocasin type having moulded counters
US2946069A (en) * 1956-12-17 1960-07-26 Jo An Shoe Mfg Co Inc Method of manufacturing moccasins
FR1253270A (fr) * 1959-12-28 1961-02-10 Manuf De Chaussures L Baras Procédé de fabrication de mocassins

Patent Citations (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US436550A (en) * 1890-09-16 Method of lasting boots or shoes
US495455A (en) * 1893-04-11 Patrick cunningham
US910677A (en) * 1909-01-26 Jeremiah M Hanson Shoe.
US966551A (en) * 1908-03-25 1910-08-09 A T Austin Footwear-former.
US1002731A (en) * 1910-07-05 1911-09-05 Andrew F Mitchell Shoe-upper.
US1421474A (en) * 1922-03-17 1922-07-04 Hirshfield Morris Blank for slippers
US2234543A (en) * 1938-11-15 1941-03-11 United Shoe Machinery Corp Manufacture of moccasins
CH287543A (it) * 1950-05-13 1952-12-15 Elio Calzaturificio Scarpa e procedimento di sua fabbricazione.
US2866211A (en) * 1955-07-26 1958-12-30 Lowell Counter Company Method of making footwear of the mocasin type having moulded counters
US2946069A (en) * 1956-12-17 1960-07-26 Jo An Shoe Mfg Co Inc Method of manufacturing moccasins
FR1253270A (fr) * 1959-12-28 1961-02-10 Manuf De Chaussures L Baras Procédé de fabrication de mocassins

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4003145A (en) * 1974-08-01 1977-01-18 Ro-Search, Inc. Footwear
US5933897A (en) * 1998-03-06 1999-08-10 Macdonald; Bruce Method of forming waterproof stitched connections during shoe manufacture

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE1485997A1 (de) 1970-06-11
NL6502495A (en, 2012) 1965-08-27
CH492413A (fr) 1970-06-30
FR1428190A (fr) 1966-02-11
GB1107042A (en) 1968-03-20
BE660184A (en, 2012) 1965-06-16

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