US3374645A - Methods of manufacturing knitted goods incorporating darts, and articles obtained thereby - Google Patents

Methods of manufacturing knitted goods incorporating darts, and articles obtained thereby Download PDF

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Publication number
US3374645A
US3374645A US409105A US40910564A US3374645A US 3374645 A US3374645 A US 3374645A US 409105 A US409105 A US 409105A US 40910564 A US40910564 A US 40910564A US 3374645 A US3374645 A US 3374645A
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Prior art keywords
knitted
knitting
point
dart
yarn
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US409105A
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English (en)
Inventor
Cointe Marcel Leon
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GASTON VERDIER ETS
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GASTON VERDIER ETS
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B11/00—Straight-bar knitting machines with fixed needles
    • D04B11/06—Straight-bar knitting machines with fixed needles with provision for narrowing or widening to produce fully-fashioned goods
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/03—Shape features
    • D10B2403/032—Flat fabric of variable width, e.g. including one or more fashioned panels

Definitions

  • This invention relates essentially to a method of manufacturing knitted goods on straight frame or knitting machines, full fashioned hosiery machines, such as Cottons system machines or the like, with a view to form darts on said goods for shaping same as desired.
  • the knitted fabric In the manufacture of closefitting knitted goods formed with spaced darts it is known to cut the knitted fabric according to a pattern, the dart being obtained by cutting out a narrow piece of the fabric and by stitching or sewing the resulting edges together by means of an overedge or overcast seam.
  • the darts are characterized as a rule by an unpleasant bulge or excess thickness, and besides ladders or unravelled or run loops or distorted or drop stitches are likely to occur in the vicinity of these darts.
  • the method constituting the subject-matter of this invention permits the forming of seamed darts on a Cottons system machine, and the darts thus obtained have a neat appearance from the dual point of view of stitches and of the absence of any excess thickness of material.
  • the method according to this invention is remarkable notably in that after having knitted a continuous fabric panel or hosiery blank portion up to the place selected for making a dart starting therefrom, the machine is operated to proceed with knitting and narrowing so as to form a slit in the knitted material thereby dividing it into two strips or bands which are subsequently knitted separately with or without narrowings (any narrowing phases being followed, in case of need, by widening phases) on the adjacent or confronting side edges of said slit or said strips, and, after having knitted these strips with a same number of courses, the loops of the endmost or last course of one strip are transferred or shifted by a distance equal to the slit width and knitted together with the first adjacent loop of the other strip thereby joining both edge ends of the slit to make up a single strip.
  • a slit is formed of which the mutually adjacent side edges are linked or looped together or united through any other means such as sewing in order to make up the desired dart by merging or joining the inner selvages of and along said slit.
  • the knitted goods for instance skirts
  • the waistband is held over and therefore mounted temporarily or kept dormant or idle underneath the knock over comb or movable knock over bit bed of the knitting machine until the skirt panel being knitted has been completed up to above its dart gaps and then the waiting stitches of the waistband are knitted or are linked, hooked, stitched or looped on the skirt panel after knitting one or more courses of said panel above the dart gaps subsequently to the loop transfer operation closing the dart gaps at their top ends. Then the knitting operation of the skirt panel proper is continued from its top below the waistband to make a number of courses constituting a flap piece or strip forming. a support to be turned down on which a skirt lining can be mounted.
  • This invention is also concerned, by way of novel industrial products, with hosiery or like knitted goods such as footwears, jersey suits or underclothing and underwear, skirts, sweaters, pull-overs, sweat-shirts, etc. manufactured according to the method broadly set forth hereinabove.
  • FIGURE 1 illustrates diagrammatically a Cottons system machine wherein the ticklers or narrowing fingers or loop transfer point combs are disposed with a view to form two darts;
  • FIGURE 2 is another diagrammatic view showing the arrangement of the inner and outer selvedge or yarn carrier rod stops of the Cottons system machine of FIG- URE l, and
  • FIGURE 3 shows the manner in which the dart top end closing transfer is effected in a Cottons system machine.
  • FIGURES 1 to 3 of the drawings show each one specific arrangement, tackle, attachment, appliance or device of a Cottons system machine for knitting and shaping the upper part of the back or rear and front portions or panels of a skirt comprising two darts on each of said back and front portions.
  • the skirt is knitted by commencing from the bottom.
  • the skirt may be knitted according to any desired and known kniting technique, such as plain, rib, tuck pattern or the like.
  • FIGURE 1 it will be seen that to make an indentation like a substantially V- shaped notch or indentation BYC, inner selvedge ticklers narrowing fingers or point combs 10, 12 disposed on either side of this indentation are used, and that to make an indentation like indentation DZE other inner selvedge ticklers narrowing fingers or point combs 14, 16 are used. Ticklers 10 and 14 on the one hand, and 12 and 16 on the other hand, are connected respectively to narrowing bars 18, 29 slidably driven by internally screw-threaded follower nuts 22 and 24 respectively, engaging respective sections of a screw-threaded rod or spindle 26 which have opposite pitches or oppositely threaded portions.
  • This arrangement permits of forming exactly the same dart at both locations BYC and DZE.
  • The, narrowings on the outer selvedges AH-FG are obtained by means of the ticklers narrowing fingers or point combs usually provided to this end and not shown in FIGURE 1 to simplify the drawing.
  • FIGURE 2 The relative arrangement of the inner and outer selvedge or yarn carrier rod stops as well as that of the various yarn carrier rods appear clearly from FIGURE 2.
  • the reference numeral 1. designates the hatched area corresponding to the lower or bottom portion of the knitted skirt panel or blank before the level where the indentations begin; overlying this area is the HABY trapezium located on the left-hand upper side of theskirt panel or blank.
  • another trapezium 2 and a complementary trapeziunr are defined by points YCDZ and ZEFG, respectively.
  • the yarn carries No. l, 2 and 3 mounted on the yarn carrier rods 31, 32 and 33 respectively are designated bythe symbols J1, J2 and J3 respectively.
  • the drawing also shows at 34 the left'hand yarn carrier slide or feed and at 35 the right-hand yarn carrier slide or feed, forming adjustable yarn carrier rod stops.
  • Three dimension lines are used in the figure to illustrate the yarn carrier rod stops corresponding to the permissible strokes AB, CD and EF respectively.
  • the movable or adjustable yarn carrier rod stops provided for determining the position of selvedges BY and EZ 'are designated by the reference numerals 37 and 38 respectively.
  • the parallel edged back or front panel portion of the skirt is straight knitted up to level HYZG in the conventional manner upon starting from the bottom of the skirt, and that from this level upwards indentations are formed by making the narrowings by means of the ticklers 10, 12 and 14, 16 driven from the oppositely threadedvscrew spindle 26.
  • the inner selvedges YC, DZ are made by using the stops formed by the yarn carrier slides or feeds moving parallel to these selvedges.
  • the progressively narrowed inner selvages BY, CY, and DZ, EZ are produced for the respective V-notches by periodically shoggin-g or shifting away from each other the pairs of point combs 10, 12 and 14, 16, respectively, whereas the outer selvages AH and FG are formed by progressive narrowing effected by periodic inward shogging or shifting of the outer selvage loop transfer point combs (not shown) relative to each other.
  • fixed yarn carrier rod stops may be used.
  • the driving of the left-hand and right-hand yarn carrier rods 31, 33 is not attended by any specific difliculty.
  • the yarn carrier rod 32 knitting the central portion can advantageously be driven by friction controlled preferably at half-speed, to avoid shocks or stress applied to a high-speed friction drive without shock absorber.
  • the yarn carrier rod operates positively only towards the center of the needle bed knitting head or working section; therefore, even under half-speed conditions, the rocking or sinking or tucking motion can in no way interfere with the yarn carrier stroke.
  • FIGURE 3 illustrates the manner in which the dart forming loop transfer is carried out to close the upper notch openings BC and DE to provide a continuous course AF extending throughout the width of the panel.
  • special loop transfer point combs or ticklers 41, 42 driven from two point comb holder bars 43, 44 respectively moving independently of each other in either direction are used and these ticklers which are conventional and available on any fiat or straight frame hosiery 'machine are of sufficient length to span the needles required for the knitting of the terminal courses AB and EF, respectively.
  • These bars are controlled by means of a double screw spindle, with oppositely threaded portions, 45 driven either manually or preferably from automatic means so that it can be used if desired for making certain hemstitched patterns.
  • both groups of stitches or yarn loops falling along lines A to B and E to F are each one transferred by a distance equal to the gap top opening width BC, DE, respectively, through the conventional narrowing method respectively bybodilyshifting the ticklers 41, 42
  • band can now be knitted on, linked on, stitched on or looped to the panel or blank along and to form a continuous course AF for example.
  • the waistband is run-on or topped beforehand on a transferring bar and thereby placed on the needles to temporarily remain under the knock over comb or bit bed and upon tilting the needle bar subsequently raised to come below the skirt panel and above the knockover comb, and after knitting one or several courses of the skirt panel, the waistband is assembled with the skirt panel.
  • the following courses knitted on the skirt panel maybe used subsequently for supporting a skirt lining.
  • the waistband thus used may advantageously be obtained by knitting an open tubular jersey blank to permit the insertion of an elastic so-called gros-grain (thick ribbon for reinforcing the waistband of the skirt) into said waistband.
  • the waistband may be formed on a separate flat knitting frame.
  • Waistband would be topped on a transferring bar and thereby run on the needles of the skirtmaking machine.
  • the portion to be knitted, linked or looped or to.be transferred to the skirt is knitted as a single-face jersey.
  • the waistband may be obtained directly on the Cottous system machine by following exactly the reverse procedure; in other words, after having completed the dart notch top end closing transfer, the panel is passed under the knockover comb to be held there below; then it is sufiicient to knit'a welt-like turn which is closed by launching or turning it up by means of the transferring bar to run it on the needles while simultaneously passing the panel above the knock over comb and then knitting the courses of same which are to constitute the flap-like support for the skirt lining or foundation slip.
  • the darts can be obtained by making firstlyrnarrowings and then widenings, notably when it is desired to fit certain portions of a knitted dress, gown or garment in the waist area above the hips for example to' make a skirt which is full at the hips but gathered at the waist.
  • firstlyrnarrowings and then widenings notably when it is desired to fit certain portions of a knitted dress, gown or garment in the waist area above the hips for example to' make a skirt which is full at the hips but gathered at the waist.
  • the shape of the darts to be obtained result from closing the gaps left by the indentations by joining their inner selvages preferably by linking or stitching on or through any other known and suitable method.
  • a method of manufacturing knitted goods, provided with dart means, on a flat, straight frame, full-fashioned hosiery machine comprising operating the latter to successively effect the steps of: knitting a fabric blank panel portion upon starting from the bottom thereof up to the level selected for making at least one dart start from a point thereon by feeding yarn to the active needles from at least one yarn carrier; proceeding with knitting courses on either side of said point while progressively narrowing them outwards by sidewise shifting the yarn loops in opposite directions to the left hand side and to the right hand side of said point, respectively, by means of at least two regular loop transfer point combs carried by narrowing fingers moving laterally outwards relative to each other, so as to form at least one diverging slit dividing the knitted material at and from said point into two strips separately and substantially simultaneously knitted each one with the same number of courses fed by at least two yarn carriers, respectively, replacing the aforesaid single one, said strips extending upwards from said level and having progressively outward narrowed, inner selvages issuing
  • a methol according to claim 1, for making a skirt provided above said dart means with a Waistband previously made on a separate flat knitting machine comprising the steps of topping said waistband on a transferring bar and running it thereby on the needles of the skirt making hosiery machine to temporarily remain dormant below the knock over comb thereof until the skirt panel being knitted has been completed up to above its dart slit means; raising said waistband above said knock over comb to come below said skirt panel top; knitting at least one additional course on and along said skirt panel top above the dart slit means and subsequently to the loop transfer step closing the top end of each dart gap; and knitting said waistband on and along said panel top.
  • a method according to claim 1 for making a skirt provided above said dart means with a waistband directly made on the same machine comprising the steps of knitting at least one additional course on and along the skirt panel top above the dart slit means after the loop transfer step closing the top end of each dart gap; passing said skirt panel under the knock over comb to be kept dormant therebelow; knitting the waistband and passing said skirt panel above said knock over comb and knitting its top on said waistband.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
US409105A 1963-11-08 1964-11-05 Methods of manufacturing knitted goods incorporating darts, and articles obtained thereby Expired - Lifetime US3374645A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR953248A FR1397176A (fr) 1963-11-08 1963-11-08 Procédé de fabrication d'articles tricotés comportant des pinces et articles obtenus par ce procédé

Publications (1)

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US3374645A true US3374645A (en) 1968-03-26

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US (1) US3374645A (fr)
CH (1) CH433562A (fr)
DE (1) DE1585026A1 (fr)
FR (1) FR1397176A (fr)
GB (1) GB1092083A (fr)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3731547A (en) * 1969-09-22 1973-05-08 Nat Res Dev Traversing mechanisms
US5214941A (en) * 1990-08-31 1993-06-01 H. Stoll Gmbh & Co. Process for producing a fully fashioned flat fabric for a garment equipped with sleeves

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1637201A (en) * 1926-02-08 1927-07-26 Mohawk Textile Mills Inc Shoulder strap
US2083869A (en) * 1933-01-03 1937-06-15 Carl F Schuessler Supporter
US2734360A (en) * 1956-02-14 Straight knitting machine
FR1223356A (fr) * 1958-12-05 1960-06-16 Garnier Luneau Ets Procédé de fabrication d'un maillot de corps tricoté en une seule pièce
US3117433A (en) * 1961-12-19 1964-01-14 M K M Knitting Mills Inc Woman's knitted garment panel and method of making same
US3176480A (en) * 1961-05-29 1965-04-06 M K M Knitting Mills Inc Rear panel for women's knitted garments and method of knitting same

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2734360A (en) * 1956-02-14 Straight knitting machine
US1637201A (en) * 1926-02-08 1927-07-26 Mohawk Textile Mills Inc Shoulder strap
US2083869A (en) * 1933-01-03 1937-06-15 Carl F Schuessler Supporter
FR1223356A (fr) * 1958-12-05 1960-06-16 Garnier Luneau Ets Procédé de fabrication d'un maillot de corps tricoté en une seule pièce
US3176480A (en) * 1961-05-29 1965-04-06 M K M Knitting Mills Inc Rear panel for women's knitted garments and method of knitting same
US3117433A (en) * 1961-12-19 1964-01-14 M K M Knitting Mills Inc Woman's knitted garment panel and method of making same

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3731547A (en) * 1969-09-22 1973-05-08 Nat Res Dev Traversing mechanisms
US5214941A (en) * 1990-08-31 1993-06-01 H. Stoll Gmbh & Co. Process for producing a fully fashioned flat fabric for a garment equipped with sleeves

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR1397176A (fr) 1965-04-30
GB1092083A (en) 1967-11-22
CH433562A (fr) 1967-04-15
DE1585026A1 (de) 1970-03-19

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