US3265582A - Permanent waving of hair - Google Patents

Permanent waving of hair Download PDF

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Publication number
US3265582A
US3265582A US374947A US37494764A US3265582A US 3265582 A US3265582 A US 3265582A US 374947 A US374947 A US 374947A US 37494764 A US37494764 A US 37494764A US 3265582 A US3265582 A US 3265582A
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solution
hair
neutralizing
minutes
phase
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Expired - Lifetime
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US374947A
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English (en)
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Kalopissis Gregoire
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Priority claimed from AT767360A external-priority patent/AT219770B/de
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/23—Sulfur; Selenium; Tellurium; Compounds thereof

Definitions

  • This invention relates to the so-called permanent waving of hair and more particularly to the methods and materials for use in the setting of such permanent waves.
  • the permanent waving of hair is normally carried out in two separate phases, namely a first phase in which the fiber is softened with the aid of a chemical reducing agent to break the bonds of the keratin and is brought to a desired configuration, and a second phase commonly known as neutralization setting or oxidation, which has the object of reconstituting the --SS-- bonds broken in the first phase, so as to render permanent the modification made in the configuration of the hair during the first phase.
  • the present invention concerns only the second, socalled neutralization phase, and is applicable to all types of permanent waving processes regardless of the nature of the reducing agent employed to carry out the first phase of the treatment.
  • the first phase which was at one time carried out at elevated temperature or in the cold with the aid of sulphi-tes, is now generally carried out in the cold, using various mercaptans, such as for example mercaptocarboxylic acids and their derivatives.
  • the second phase is commonly carried out in practice with the aid of an oxidizing agent and may be diagrammatically represented by the reaction:
  • the oxidizing agents employed for the aforesaid purpose are, for example, hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates and iodates, alkali perborates, urea peroxide, or chlorites.
  • the hair in the permanent waving of hair by a process in which in a first phase the hair is treated with an agent which serves to break the SS- bonds of the keratin, and the hair is constrained to a desired configuration, there is provided a process of written as follows in the case of potassium tetrathionate.
  • the action of the polythionate results solely in the reconstitution of the SS- bonds of the keratin which were broken during the first phase of the treatment, i.e. the neutralizing solution according to the invention has a specific and selective action for the reformation of the -SS bonds of the hair.
  • the concentration of the neutralizing solutions according to the invention is obviously a function of the number of S'-S bridges which have been reduced and which must be reconstituted. In other words, this concentration depends upon the concentration of the reducing agent applied in carrying out the first phase of the permanent waving, and upon the effectiveness of this product.
  • the concentration of the polythionate ions in the solution can reach one gram molecule per liter.
  • the buffering agents that may be used may be of any type provided they are capable of keeping the pH within the desired range and are compatible with the use of the solution for the neutralizing purpose and are harmless to the hair and skin.
  • the percentage of the buffer to the polythionates may be between and 35%.
  • Suitable buffering agents included by way of example are borax, sodium glycolate, ammonium carbonate, etc.
  • This pH value is, for example, 10.2 when a mixture of sodium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate is used, 9.3 when sodium glycolate is used, 9.2 when borax is used, 9 when disodium phosphate is used, 8.5 when ammonium carbonate or a mixture of boric acid and borax is used, and 7-8 with a mixture of citric acid and disodium phosphate.
  • FIGURE 1 is a graph the abscissa of which shows in minutes the duration of the neutralizing treatment utilizing a potassium tetrathionate solution at a 15 concentration and the ordinate indicates in conventional units the supplementary energy which is necessary to obtain, after treatment with potassium tetrathionate, the same given elongation of a hair as before treatment.
  • Curve I shows the mechano-chemical evolution of hair treated with the above-described potassium tetrathionate solution which is not buffered
  • curve II shows the mechano-chemical evolution of like hair treated with the also above-described potassium tetrathionate solution.
  • FIGURE 2 is a graph in which the ordinate indicates, still in the same conventional units, the same supplementary energy as in graph 1, while the abscissa shows the different pH-values at which the measurements have been carried out, the origin of the abscissa corresponding to a non-buffered 15% potassium tetrathionate solution; the points which correspond to the pH values 7.5-8.5 and 9.5 relate to buffered 15 potassium tetrathionate solution.
  • This second graph relates to tests which have been effected during a contact time of 10 minutes.
  • This graph shows that the increasing of the supplementary energy (indicated by the ordinate) reach respectively rates of about 40, 45 and 60%, when the nonbufiered solutions are replaced by buffered solutions of pH values of 7.5-8.5 and 9.5.
  • Example 1 The hair is softened in a conventional manner with an 8% solution of ammonium thioglycolate, brought to a pH of 9.3 by adding ammonia, said solution being left on the hair for ten minutes.
  • Example 2 After having completed the reducing step in the manner described in Example 1, the neutralizing step is carried out using a solution having the following composition:
  • Example 3 After having completed the resuding step in the manner indicated in Example 1, a solution having the following composition is prepared immediately 'before use:
  • Example 4 After having completed the reducing step in the manner described in Example 1, a solution having the following composition, prepared immediately before use, is employed as the neutralizer:
  • Example 5 After having completed the reducing step in the manner described in Example 1, a neutralizing solution is prepared just before it is to be used, by dissolving in 150 cc. of water 18 grams of a mixture of powders having the following composition:
  • the neutralizing solutions according to this invention may be used after having reduced the hair during the first permanent waving step with an ordinary reducing agent.
  • Example 10 The hair is softened in a conventional manner with an 8% solution of ammonium thioglycolate, brought to a pH of 9.3 by adding ammonia, said solution being left on the hair for ten minutes.
  • Example 11 After having completed the reducing step in the manner described in Example 10, the neutralizing step is carried out using a solution having the following com-position:
  • Example 12 After having completed the reducing step in the manner indicated in Example 10, a solution having the following composition is prepared immediately before use:
  • polythionate solution employed for neutralizing may contain adjuvants for special effects.
  • a surfaceactive agent e.g. a non-ionic, cationic or anionic surface active agent or an agent having a softening or other desirable efiect on the hair, e.g. lanolin, or cholesterol.
  • neutralizing compositions for use in the permanent wavingof hair which comprise an aqueous solution of a polythionate containing a surface-active agent, cholesterol or lanolin.
  • the invention further provides a permanent Waving kit which comprises, separately packaged within a single covering package, a first solution of a reducing agent which will, on application to hair, break the -S-S bonds of the keratin, and a second solution containing polythionate ions.
  • Example 13 A permanent wave treatment is carried out by first treating hair previously Wound on curlers with an ammonium thioglycolate solution containing 8% of thioglycolic acid and brought to a pH of 9.3 with ammonia. The hair is then rinsed with water and then saturated with an aqueous 10% potassium tetrathionate solution having an initial pH of 4.5. This solution is allowed to act on the hair for 15 minutes and the hair is then washed and dried. In this way, a permanent wave of very attractive appearance is obtained, which is maintained for a long period and which resists humidity.
  • Example -1 4 When the hair has been treated in a first phase with the solution employed for this purpose. in Example 13, the second neutnalizing phase is carried out, using an aqueous potassium tetrat'hionate solution having an initial pH of 5 which is prepared at the time of use by dissolving 8 g. of this compound in powder form in 100 cc. of water, and which is applied in the manner indicated in the foregoing example.
  • Example 15 A permanent wave treatment is carried out by treating the hair in a first phase with 8% oc-rnercapto-acetamide solution at a pH of 7, obtained with the aid of ammonia, and then carrying out the second, setting phase with an aqueous 4% potassium tetsnat-hionate solution having an initial pH of 6. There is thus obtained an excellent permanent wave on the hair.
  • Example 16 A permanent wave treatment is carried out by first treating the hair with an aqueous 6% thioglycolic acid solution in the form of its ammonium salt and having a pH of 8.2 obtained by the addition of ammonia and ammonium canbonate. The hair, without rinsing, is then saturated with an aqueous 12% sodium tetrathionate solution having an initial pH of 4.8. This solution is allowed to act for minutes, and the hair is then washed and dried. There is thus obtained a permanent wave of very attractive appearance and of good dunability.
  • Example 17 The first phase of a permanent wave treatment is carried out by any of the methods and products usually employed for this purpose.
  • the hair, with or without rinsing, is then treated with the following neutralizing solution having an initial pH of 5.5
  • Example 18 The first phase of a permanent waving operation is carried out in the usual way with the aid of an ammonium thioglycolate solution having a concentration of 0.066 gram mol. per cc. of water, adjusted to a pH of 9.7 by the addition of ammonia. This solution is allowed to act for 10 minutes on the hair, which is thereafter copiously rinsed.' There is then applied a neutralizing solution having an initial pH of 6 and corresponding to the following composition:
  • Potassium trithionate K S O g 20 Sodium lauryl sulphate g 0.2 Water, q.s.p cc 150 This solution is allowed to act for about 10 minutes and the usual washing, rinsing and drying operations are then carried out. In this way, a curl having a very good, lasting stability is obtained.
  • Example 19 The first phase of a permanent wave treatment is carried out in the usual way with the aid of the following solution:
  • a neutralizing solution having the following composition is then applied:
  • Example 20 The first phase of a permanent hair waving treatment is carried out as indicated in Example 19. There is then applied to the hair a neutralizing solution having the following composition, with an initial pH of 5.5:
  • Example 21 The first phase of a permanent hair waving treatment is carried out With a reducing solution having the following composition:
  • Example 22 The first phase of a permanent wave treatment is completed as indicated in Example 21, and when the wound locks have cooled sulficiently they are rinsed and a neutralizing solution having the following formula with an initial pH of 6 is applied for 10 minutes:
  • Example 23 In the first phase of a permanent hair wave treatment, the hair is abundantly impregnated with the following reducing solution:
  • the method of neutralizing hair which has been softened by breaking the SS-- bonds of the keratin therein and constrained to a desired configuration comprises the step of treating said hair with a 5% to 20% by weight of an aqueous solution of the soluble alkali metal salt of tetrathionic acid, said solution being slightly acid to a pH of 9.5.
  • the method of neutralizing hair which has been softened by breaking the SS bonds of the keratin therein and constrained to a desired configuration comprises the step of treating said hair with a 5% to 20% by Weight of a buffered aqueous solution of the soluble alkali metal salt of tetrathionic acid, said solution being slightly acid to a pH to 9.5 in which the amount of the buffering agent is between 15% and 35% of the amount of the tetrathionate.
  • a neutralizing aqueous solution for use in the permanent waving of hair containing 5% to 20% by Weight of a soluble alkali metal salt of tetrathionic acid, said solution being slightly acid to a pH of 9.5.
  • a neutralizing aqueous solution for use in the permanent waving of hair containing 5% to 20% by weight of a soluble alkali metal salt of tetrathionic acid, said solution being slightly acid to a pH of 9.5, and an amount of a bulfering agent between 15 and 35% of the amount of the tetrathionate.
  • a mixture of powders adapted to be dissolved in water together to form a solution for neutralizing hair which is being permanently waved comprising the soluble alkali metal salts of tetrathionic acid and a suitable soluble buffering agent in the ratio of 3 parts of tetrathionate to about one part of buffering agent, said buffering agent being sufi'icient to maintain the pH value of the neutralizing solution made from said powders from slightly acid to a pH of 9.5.
  • the method of neutralizing hair which has been softened by breaking the SS bonds of the keratin therein and constrained to a desired configuration comprises the step of treating said hair with a 5% to 20% by Weight of an aqueous solution of the soluble potassium salt of tetrathionic acid, said solution being slightly acid to a pH of 9.5.
  • the method of neutralizing hair which has been softened by breaking the --SS bonds of the keratin therein and constrained to a desired configuration comprises the step of treating said hair with a 5% to 20% by weight of an aqueous solution of the soluble sodium salt of tetrathionic acid, said solution being slightly acid to a pH of 9.5.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
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  • Epidemiology (AREA)
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US374947A 1960-04-15 1964-06-15 Permanent waving of hair Expired - Lifetime US3265582A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR824620A FR1309816A (fr) 1960-04-15 1960-04-15 Nouveau procédé de fixation des ondulations permanentes pour cheveux et fixateur utilisé à cet effet
AT767360A AT219770B (de) 1960-04-15 1960-10-12 Verfahren zur Fixierung von Dauerwellen auf den Haaren und Mittel zur Durchführung des Verfahrens

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US3265582A true US3265582A (en) 1966-08-09

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BE (1) BE599297A (en))
CH (1) CH394496A (en))
DE (1) DE1160984B (en))
FR (1) FR1309816A (en))
GB (1) GB913149A (en))
NL (3) NL287799A (en))

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3628544A (en) * 1967-03-03 1971-12-21 Oreal Permanent wave-fixing composition and process
WO1988002997A1 (en) * 1986-10-24 1988-05-05 Gaf Corporation Compositions used in permanent structure altering of hair
WO1988003017A1 (en) * 1986-10-24 1988-05-05 Gaf Corporation Composition used in permanent alteration of hair color
KR100758806B1 (ko) * 2001-09-27 2007-09-13 주식회사 엘지생활건강 염모제 조성물
US20120247500A1 (en) * 2009-09-29 2012-10-04 Gregory Plos Process for permanently reshaping hair using mercaptosiloxane composition

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
NL120222C (en)) * 1960-04-15

Citations (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB259930A (en) * 1925-10-19 1927-09-01 Silesia Ver Chemischer Fabrike An improved process for oxidising organic compounds
US2439720A (en) * 1942-08-07 1948-04-13 Searle & Co Process of producing sodium tetrathionate
USRE23771E (en) * 1954-01-12 Snowplow
US2768875A (en) * 1952-04-18 1956-10-30 Carroll Dunham Smith Pharmacal Stabilizing aqueous solutions of polythionates and polythionic acids
US2774355A (en) * 1955-03-23 1956-12-18 Du Pont Permanent hair waving neutralization by monopersulfate
US2780579A (en) * 1953-07-23 1957-02-05 Turner Hall Corp Composition and method for permanent waving of hair on the human head
US2901399A (en) * 1955-05-20 1959-08-25 Bristol Myers Co Therapeutic preparations for topical application to the skin
US2906273A (en) * 1956-03-15 1959-09-29 Gillette Co Hair curler
USRE24763E (en) * 1960-01-12 Ch ch j
FR1309816A (fr) * 1960-04-15 1962-11-23 Oreal Nouveau procédé de fixation des ondulations permanentes pour cheveux et fixateur utilisé à cet effet

Family Cites Families (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE972216C (de) * 1952-12-25 1959-06-04 Schwarzkopf Fa Hans Fixiermittel fuer reduktiv behandeltes Haar
DE1056327B (de) * 1954-07-09 1959-04-30 Sales Affiliates Inc Mittel zum Fixieren von Formveraenderungen des Haares

Patent Citations (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
USRE23771E (en) * 1954-01-12 Snowplow
USRE24763E (en) * 1960-01-12 Ch ch j
GB259930A (en) * 1925-10-19 1927-09-01 Silesia Ver Chemischer Fabrike An improved process for oxidising organic compounds
US2439720A (en) * 1942-08-07 1948-04-13 Searle & Co Process of producing sodium tetrathionate
US2768875A (en) * 1952-04-18 1956-10-30 Carroll Dunham Smith Pharmacal Stabilizing aqueous solutions of polythionates and polythionic acids
US2780579A (en) * 1953-07-23 1957-02-05 Turner Hall Corp Composition and method for permanent waving of hair on the human head
US2774355A (en) * 1955-03-23 1956-12-18 Du Pont Permanent hair waving neutralization by monopersulfate
US2901399A (en) * 1955-05-20 1959-08-25 Bristol Myers Co Therapeutic preparations for topical application to the skin
US2906273A (en) * 1956-03-15 1959-09-29 Gillette Co Hair curler
FR1309816A (fr) * 1960-04-15 1962-11-23 Oreal Nouveau procédé de fixation des ondulations permanentes pour cheveux et fixateur utilisé à cet effet

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3628544A (en) * 1967-03-03 1971-12-21 Oreal Permanent wave-fixing composition and process
WO1988002997A1 (en) * 1986-10-24 1988-05-05 Gaf Corporation Compositions used in permanent structure altering of hair
WO1988003017A1 (en) * 1986-10-24 1988-05-05 Gaf Corporation Composition used in permanent alteration of hair color
KR100758806B1 (ko) * 2001-09-27 2007-09-13 주식회사 엘지생활건강 염모제 조성물
US20120247500A1 (en) * 2009-09-29 2012-10-04 Gregory Plos Process for permanently reshaping hair using mercaptosiloxane composition

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Publication number Publication date
FR1309816A (fr) 1962-11-23
NL287799A (en))
CH394496A (fr) 1965-06-30
BE599297A (fr) 1961-05-16
GB913149A (en) 1962-12-19
DE1160984B (de) 1964-01-09
NL259654A (en))
NL120222C (en))

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