US3085340A - Grading machine - Google Patents

Grading machine Download PDF

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Publication number
US3085340A
US3085340A US114780A US11478061A US3085340A US 3085340 A US3085340 A US 3085340A US 114780 A US114780 A US 114780A US 11478061 A US11478061 A US 11478061A US 3085340 A US3085340 A US 3085340A
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United States
Prior art keywords
arms
sheets
housing
unit
pattern
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
US114780A
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English (en)
Inventor
Rashbaum Abraham
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Willcox and Gibbs Sewing Machine Co
Original Assignee
Willcox and Gibbs Sewing Machine Co
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Willcox and Gibbs Sewing Machine Co filed Critical Willcox and Gibbs Sewing Machine Co
Priority to US114780A priority Critical patent/US3085340A/en
Priority to GB8888/63A priority patent/GB938623A/en
Priority to GB35094/61A priority patent/GB938622A/en
Priority to CH639162A priority patent/CH405199A/de
Priority to BE618231A priority patent/BE618231A/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of US3085340A publication Critical patent/US3085340A/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth

Definitions

  • Another object of the present invention is to provide -a grader which accurately provides a plurality of patterns, each having predetermined and uniform variations between each size.
  • a further object of the invention resides in the ability of the cutter to simultaneously blend-in curved surfaces in the pattern.
  • a still further object of the invention is to be found in the -formation of a plurality of patterns, some of which are provided with uniform changes and others with different changes to accommodate the larger and smaller sizes.
  • a feature of the invention resides in the independent control of each unit for projecting the arms thereof transversely of the housing which results in the displacing of the arms in the two units and causes pivotal movement of the pattern sheets about an axis perpendicular to the plane of the sheets, thus permittting blending of the curved portions of the patterns.
  • Another feature of the invention resides in the construction wherein certain of the arms in each unit may have a straight line variation and others may have a greater or lesser change. This is advantageous where it is desired to provide a lesser change in the small sizes and a greater change in the larger sizes.
  • FIGURE l is a plan view of the device with the cover removed.
  • FIG. 2 is a front view of the device.
  • FIG. 3 is a sectional View taken along line 3 3 of FIG. 1.
  • FIG. 4 is a sectional view taken along line 4 4 of FIG. l.
  • FIG. 5 is a fragmentary view, partly in section, of a gripping member.
  • FIG. 6 is a fragmentary view showing the actuator bar for longitudinal displacement of the connectors.
  • FIG. 7 is a detailed View of the releasable coupling in the pinion shaft.
  • FIG. 8 is a perspective of the device showing the superposed pattern sheets inV displaced relation.
  • FIG. 9 is -a View similar to FIG. 1 -showing one unit of a modified construction.
  • housing has an elongate opening 15 through which a plurality of paper manipulating arms 16 project.
  • Each of the arms has a chuck 17 secured to its end in. which paper gripping or clamping members 18 are detachably mounted.
  • the gripping members may take many forms, they preferably comprise upper and lower flat resilient spring members 19, 20 normally urged to ,open positions, as shown in FIG. 3, and having their inner 'ends extending into the-chuck and clamped therein by a thumbscrew 21.
  • the forward ends are provided with inwardly curved teeth 22, 23 which are adapted to be positioned over the folded edge of a sheet of pattern paper 25 with 'the edge engaging a stop pin 26 on one of the gripping 4members to locate it in the gripping member.
  • the gripping members operated by a sleeve 2'7 is moved along the members 22, 23 to close them into gripping relation.
  • the teeth 22, 23 on the gripping members engage and grip the superposed edges of the paper in such a manner that they are protected by the distorted paper as the sheets move relative to one another as will be explained.
  • the appropriate pair of gripping members can be deflected, because of the resiliency thereof, to locate lsaid master pattern on the -top of the superposed pattern sheets while the remaining members will assume their proper place in the superposed pile of sheets.
  • the arms in accordance with the present invention are divided into two groups or units. As shown in FIG. 1, one group comprises arms 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36 and the other group comprises corresponding arms 30A, 31A, 32A, 33A, 34A, 35A and 36A.
  • the corresponding arms in each group are adapted to grip the edge of the same sheet in the superposed pile of sheets to effect its movement during the grading operation.
  • the center arm 33, 33A in each group is fixed to the housing by a mounting bar 37F and the other arms are each slidably mounted in a carrier 37 disposed within the housing perpendicularly to Vt-he side 12 of the housing.
  • the slidable arms in each group are provided with pins 3S adapted to be located at spaced intervals in a slot 39 in an elongate actuator bar 40 which is pivoted to the mounting for the fixed arm.
  • a manually operated rack and pinion is provided for driving the actuator bar. While a single rack and pinion may be used to obtain simultaneous movement of the corresponding arms in both groups if the actuator bars of the groups are tied together for simultaneous movement, itis at present preferred to provide a corresponding arm in each unit or group with a separate rack.
  • the arms 30, 30A are provided with racks 41, 41a which cooperate with an elongate pinion gear or shaft 42 extending across the housing above the arms and projecting 4from each end of the housing and terminating in operating knobs '43, 44.
  • the pinion gear may be formed as a unitary shaft, it is herein illustrated as being formed by two shafts 42a, 4211 mounted in bearings 42C, 42d and the en-d'plates 11. Between the two shafts there is a releasable coupling 45 yieldably urged into coupled relation by springs 46, 47 for normally simultaneously driving the arms but premitting independent operation of each unit or group as will be explained.
  • the pinion gear 42 As the pinion gear 42 is rotated, it moves the racks 41, 42, and the arms 3f) and 30A to which they are connected, inwardly and outwardly depending on the direction of rotation of the shaft.
  • the pin 3S thereon operating in the slot 39 will move the actuator bar 40 about its pivot.
  • the actuator bars in each group will drive the pins 38 connected to the arms and disposed in the slot 39 and cause predetermined relative movement between the corresponding arms in each group and with the xed pattern.
  • the folded papers 25 are disposed in a starting position in which the folded edges 25a are in alignment and gripped by corresponding gripping members with the basic pattern 25B located on top and gripped in the gripping members connected to arms 30', 36A.
  • the papers gripped by arms 31, 31A and 32, 32A will move rearwardly by predeterminately different amounts and the arms 34, 34A, 35, 35A and 36, 36A will move -forwardly by similar predeterminately different amounts, thus producing the required spread in the superposed pattern sheets, as shown in FIG. 8, to permit all of the sheets to be cut with the proper cut for the particular adjustment.
  • the movement between the various arms will be in a straight line proportion.
  • a suitable scale 48 can be provided to aid the cutter in making the required transverse adjustments.
  • each of the corresponding carriers in each set is connected by a connector bar slidably mounted on the base and disposed between suitable guides secured to the base so as to produce simultaneous movement thereof.
  • the carriers for arms 30, 30A are secured to connector 50l slidable on the base ⁇ for simultaneous movement longitudinally of the housing.
  • the carriers for arms 31, 31A are secured to connector 511; carriers for arms 32, 32A are connected to connector 52.
  • the connector 53 for the mounting bars 3'7F is secured in fixed position on the base.
  • the connectors 54, 55 and 56 for the carriers for arms 3'4 and 34A, 35 and 35A and 36 and 36A are slidably supported on the base.
  • the connectors are limited to longitudinal sliding movement by xed guides 57 and 58 at opposite sides thereof in conjunction with the fixed connector 53.
  • each of the connectors on either side of the center connector 53 is provided with a pin 60 which is received in an elongate slot 61 in an actuator bar 62 pivoted at 62a to the fixed connector 53 and disposed in a recess 63 formed in the base below the sliding connectors as shown in FIG. 4 T o operate the connectors to adjust their position
  • connector 501 is provided on its edge with a rack I64 cooperating with a gear 65 mounted on a shaft 66 projecting out of the top cover 13 and rotatedA by -a handwheel 67.
  • the connector 5)v will be moved to the right or left by the rack 64.
  • the pin 60 on the connector will drive the pivoted bar 62 about its pivot.
  • a suitable scale 68 can be provided on the side 12 adjacent the opening 15 to aid the cutter in making the required longitudinal adjustments.
  • the present invention provides means for simultaneously adjusting the patterns about a vertical axis passing through the pattern sheets so that the sheets can be still further adjusted to permit the 'simultaneous blending of curved surfaces. This is accomplished by means of the two-part pinion shaft 42a, 42b which permits individual control over each arm group or unit.
  • the knobs 43 or 44 When it is desired to blend in an armhole or the like curved surface, the knobs 43 or 44 are retracted moving the pinion shafts 42a or 42b back against the urging of the springs ⁇ 46, 47 to a retracted position in which the driving connection 45 is broken as shown in FIG. 7.
  • the knobs 43 or 44 By rotating one or both of the knobs 43 or 44, the corresponding arms in each unit are caused to have different projecting movements which result in the pattern sheets lbeing tilted about a vertical axis and thus permit the cutter to shift said sheets to provide the desired simultaneous blending of the curved surfaces.
  • the arms, carriers, connectors, racks, pinion shafts and other operators are the same.
  • the elongate actuator bar 46a is pivotally mounted on mounting bar 7F and its slot 39a engages the pins on the arms 31A, 32A and 34A so that the four middle arms move relatively with a straight line movement.
  • a transverse pivot bar 71 is mounted on a connector 72 driven by a pin 73 in the slot 61 on the pivot bar 62.
  • a rst auxiliary actuator bar 74 has a slot 75 receiving a pivot pin 76 at one end of the pivot bar 71.
  • the auxiliary actuator receives a driving pin 77 on the arm 30A and as the arm is moved by the rack it causes the bar 74 to drive the arm 31A through pin 78 operating in the slot 75 at a rate different from the straight line ratio of the middle arms.
  • a second auxiliary actuator bar 79 has a slot 80' receiving a pivot pin 81 mounted on the other end of the pivot bar.
  • the slot 80 engages a driver pin 82 on the arm 34A and drives the bar 79 as the arm is moved.
  • the slot in the bar engages the driven pins 83, 84 on arms 35A and 36A to project the arms at a different rate than the middle arms.
  • arm 30A drives the first auxiliary actuator, which drives the arm 31A by pin 7S.
  • Arm 31A will drive the actuator bar through pin 38- and cause the arms 32A, 33A and 34A to have a predetermined straight line ratio of movement different from arm 30A, and arm 34A through pin 82 thereon drives the second auxiliary actuator 79 to actuate the arms 35A and 36A at a still different ratio than the other arms. It will be seen that by properly proportioning and positioning the auxiliary actuator bars a differential ratio of movement between the arms can be achieved.
  • a pattern grading machine comprising a housing; a pair of units mounted on the housing in side-by-side relation, each of said units comprising a plurality of paper manipulating arms projecting from a side of the housing and having clamping members at the ends thereof, the clamping members on corresponding arms receiving blank sheets of pattern paper and holding said sheets in superposed relation; interconnecting means for connecting said arms in each unit for predetermined relative lateral movement; operating means for the interconnecting means to operate both units simultaneously to cause corresponding movement of the superposed sheets held in the clamping members in each unit in the plane of said sheets and toward and away from the side of the housing; and means for rendering the operating means inoperative to simultaneously shift the papers and for permitting the interconnecting means of each of the units to be operated individually thereby to shift the papers in a plane of the papers and about an axis perpendicular to the plane of the papers to permit blending of curved edges of the pattern.
  • a pattern grading machine comprising a housing; ya pair of units mounted on the housing in side-by-side relation each of said units comprising a plurality of paper manipulating arms having blank sheets of pattern paper clamping members at the ends thereof; means for relatively moving the corresponding arms in each unit longitudinally of the housing in a predetermined ratio; actuating means for the arms in each unit for relative lateral movement in the direction toward and away from a side of the housing in a predetermined ratio; manual means operating the actuating means for both units simultaneously to cause corresponding movement of the clamping members in each unit to have the same lateral movement; and means for rendering the manual means inoperative to simultaneously shift the papers and for permitting the units to be operated individually thereby to shift the papers in a plane of the papers and about an axis perpendicular to the plane of the papers for blending.
  • a pattern grading machine comprising a housing; a pair of units mounted on the housing in side-by-side relation, each of said units comprising a plurality of paper manipulating arms having clamping members at the ends thereof, said armslprojecting from one side of the housing, the clamping members of corresponding arms in each unit being adapted to grip a blank sheet of pattern paper; means connecting corresponding arms in each unit for movement together in a longitudinal direction in the housing; means actuating said last-named means for shifting the corresponding clamping members in each unit in a predetermined relationship to shift the sheets in the plane of the sheets and in a direction longitudinally of the side of the housing; means for connecting the manipulating arms in each unit for predetermined relative movement laterally in the direction toward and away from said side; means for operating both units sirnultaneously to cause corresponding clamping members in each unit to have the same lateral movement to shift the sheets clamped thereby in the plane of the sheets and .in a ldirection perpendicular to the side of said housing; and
  • a pattern grading machine comprising a housing; a pair of units mounted on the housing in side-by-side relation, each of said units comprising a plurality of paper manipulating arms having clamping members at the ends thereof, said arms being slidable in carriers therefor so as to project from one side of the housing,
  • clamping members of corresponding arms in each unit being adapted to grip a blank sheet of pattern paper; connecting means connecting the carriers for corresponding arms in each unit for movement together in a longitudinal direction in the housing; means actuating said connecting means for shifting the carriers in each unit to provide a predetermined relative shift of the sheets in the plane of the sheets and longitudinally in a direction parallel to the side of the housing; means for connecting the manipulating arms in each unit for predetermined relative movement laterally in the direction toward and away from said side; means for operating said last-named means to cause both units to simultaneously move the corresponding clamping members in each unit in a predetermined relation to shift the sheets clamped thereby in the plane of the sheets and in a direction perpendicular to the side of said housing; and means for rendering the last-named means inoperative to so shift the papers and for operating the units individually to shift the papers in a plane of the papers and about an aXis perpendicular to the plane of the papers.
  • a pattern grading machine comprising a housing; a pair of units mounted on the housing in side-by-side relation, each of said units comprising a plurality of paper manipulating arms having clamping members at the ends thereof for gripping blank sheets of pattern paper, said arms projecting from one side of the housing; means connecting corresponding arms in each unit for movement together in a lateral direction in the housing; means actuating said last-named means for shifting the corresponding clamping members in each unit in a predetermined relationship to shift the sheets in the plane of the sheets and in a direction parallel to the side of the housing; means for connecting the manipulating arms in each unit for predetermined differential movement in the direction toward and away from said side; means for operating both units simultaneously to cause corresponding clamping members in each unit to have the same movement to shift the sheets clamped thereby in the plane of the sheets and in a direction perpendicular to the side of said housing; a-nd means for rendering the last-named means inoperative to so shift the papers and for operating the units individually to shift the papers in a plane
  • a pattern grading machine comprising a housing, a base, end walls, side walls and a cover; a pair of units mounted on the housing in side-by-side relation, each of said units comprising a plurality of paper manipulating arms having clamping members at the ends thereof for gripping blank sheets of pattern paper; carriers for said arms slidably mounting said arms for projection through an opening in one side of the housing; rigid connectors slidable on the base and connecting corresponding carriers in each unit for movement together in a longitudinal Idirection in the housing; means including a handwheel projecting above the cover and having a rack and gear connection with said connectors for shifting the corresponding carriers in each unit relatively in a predetermined relationship to shift the arms and sheets carried thereby in the plane of the sheets and in a longitudinal direction parallel to the side of the housing; actuating means interconnecting arms in each unit for predetermined relative movement in the direction toward and away from said side; means including projecting knobs for manually operating the actuating means for both units to simultaneously cause corresponding clamping mem-bers in
  • a pattern grading machine comprising a housing, a base, end walls, side walls and a cover; a pair or" units mounted on the housing in side-by-side relation, each of said units comprising a plurality of paper manipulating arms having clamping members at the ends thereof for gripping blank sheets of pattern paper; carriers for said arms slidably mounting said arms for projection through an yopening in one side of the housing; rigid connectors slidable on the base and connecting corresponding carriers in each unit for movement together in a longitudinal direction in the housing; interconnecting means including a pivoted actuator having a pin and slot connection withy each connect-or; a handwheel projecting above the cover and having a rack and gear connection with one of said connectors for driving the pivoted actuator and thereby relatively shifting the corresponding clamping members in each unit in a predetermined ratio to shift the sheets in the plane ot the sheets and in a longitudinal direction parallel to the side of the housing; a second pivoted actua-- tor for each unit having a pin and slot connection with
  • a pattern grading machine comprising a housing; a pair of units mounted on the housing in side-by-side relation, each of said units comprising a plurality of correspending paper manipulating arms having chuck means at one end for receiving clamping devices for blank sheets of pattern paper at ⁇ spaced points, said clamping devicek being deectable, for mounting said sheets in superposed relation and comprising resilient upper and lower members normally urged to an open position andA having at their ends inturned interlocking teeth adapted to be positioned on opposite sides of said sheet, at least one of said members having stop means, for limiting the position of the sheet between said members, and releasable means for moving the members into gripping relation with the sheets and deforming the sheets thereat to provide protecting means for the clamping devices; and means for projecting said arms with a predetermined relative movement with respect to one another in a lateral direction to shift the superposed pattern sheets to produce a grading thereof.
  • a pattern grading machine comprising a housing; a pair of units mounted on the housing in side-by-side relation, cach of said units comprising a plurality of paper manipulating arms having chuck means at one end for receiving clamping devices for blank sheets of pattern paper in superposed relation, said clamping devices mounting said sheets in superposed relation and comprising ilat resilient upper and lower members having at their ends inturned interlocking teeth adapted to be positioned with the sheets and de'forming the sheets thereat to provide protecting means for the clamping devices during relative movement of the superposed sheets; means relatively moving the corresponding arms in each unit longitudinally of the housing with a predetermined ratio; means for projecting said arms from one side of the housing; and means vfor moving said arms with respect to one another in a lateral direction in a predetermined ratio to shift the superposed pattern sheets and produce a grading thereof.
  • a pattern grading machine comprising a housing; a pair of units mounted on the housing in side-by-side relation, each of said units comprising a plurality of paper manipulating arms having blank sheets of pattern paper clamping members at the ends thereof for mounting said sheets in superposed relation; separate carriers for each of the arms slidably mounting the arms for projection from one side of the housing; connector means connecting corresponding carriers in each unit for longitudinal movement in the housing; a pivoted actuator having pin and slot connections to the connector means for shifting the carriers in a predetermined relationship for longitudinally shitting said sheets; a second pivoted actuator for each unit having a pin and slot connection with said arms for sliding said arms in the carriers with predetermined relative movement in the lateral direction; and manual means for moving a corresponding arm in each unit and through said second actuator simultaneously causing corresponding arms in each unit to have the same lateral movement whereby the superposed sheets are adjusted in a predetermined relation with one another.
  • a pattern grading machine comprising a housing; a pair ot' units mounted on the housing in side-by-side relation, each of said units comprising a plurality ofpaper manipulating arms having blank sheets of pattern paper clamping members at the ends thereof for mounting said sheets in superposed relation; carriers for each of the arms slidably mounting the arms for projection from one side of the housing; connector means connecting corresponding carriers in each unit for longitudinal movement in the housing; a pivoted actuator having pin and slot connections to the connector means for shifting the carriers in a predetermined relationship for longitudinally shifting said sheets; a second pivoted actuator for each unit having a pin and slot connection with certain of said arms for sliding said arms relative to lone another with a predetermined ratio in the lateral direction; auxiliary actuator means for moving the other of said arms relative to the remaining arms at a different ratio; manual means for l moving a corresponding arm in each unit and through said second actuator; and auxiliary actuator means simultaneously causing corresponding arms in each unit to have differential lateral movement whereby the superposed sheets are.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
  • Folding Of Thin Sheet-Like Materials, Special Discharging Devices, And Others (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Adjustment And Processing Of Grains (AREA)
  • Refuse Collection And Transfer (AREA)
US114780A 1961-06-05 1961-06-05 Grading machine Expired - Lifetime US3085340A (en)

Priority Applications (5)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US114780A US3085340A (en) 1961-06-05 1961-06-05 Grading machine
GB8888/63A GB938623A (en) 1961-06-05 1961-09-29 Improvements in paper pattern grading machines
GB35094/61A GB938622A (en) 1961-06-05 1961-09-29 Improvements in paper pattern grading machines
CH639162A CH405199A (de) 1961-06-05 1962-05-25 Gerät zur gleichzeitigen Herstellung einer Anzahl verschiedener Muster mit Hilfe eines einzigen Grundmodelles
BE618231A BE618231A (fr) 1961-06-05 1962-05-28 Machine gradueuse

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US114780A US3085340A (en) 1961-06-05 1961-06-05 Grading machine

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
US3085340A true US3085340A (en) 1963-04-16

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ID=22357381

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US114780A Expired - Lifetime US3085340A (en) 1961-06-05 1961-06-05 Grading machine

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US3085340A (fr)
BE (1) BE618231A (fr)
CH (1) CH405199A (fr)
GB (2) GB938622A (fr)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3683504A (en) * 1970-06-30 1972-08-15 Mikulas M Roth Pattern grading apparatus
US6751877B2 (en) 2002-07-15 2004-06-22 Carol S. Grove Wearable adjustable garment pattern template
US20170136637A1 (en) * 2014-06-27 2017-05-18 Koninklijke Philips N.V. An actuating mechanism for controlling the cutting length of a hair trimmer

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1130653A (en) * 1914-12-17 1915-03-02 Frank Galietti Device for printing diagrams for tailors' patterns.
US2091262A (en) * 1935-04-09 1937-08-31 Aster Saul Pattern grading
US2813341A (en) * 1955-07-05 1957-11-19 Mino Angelo Di Multiple pattern grader
US2972188A (en) * 1958-06-16 1961-02-21 Kaufman William Making graded patterns for garments

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1130653A (en) * 1914-12-17 1915-03-02 Frank Galietti Device for printing diagrams for tailors' patterns.
US2091262A (en) * 1935-04-09 1937-08-31 Aster Saul Pattern grading
US2813341A (en) * 1955-07-05 1957-11-19 Mino Angelo Di Multiple pattern grader
US2972188A (en) * 1958-06-16 1961-02-21 Kaufman William Making graded patterns for garments

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3683504A (en) * 1970-06-30 1972-08-15 Mikulas M Roth Pattern grading apparatus
US6751877B2 (en) 2002-07-15 2004-06-22 Carol S. Grove Wearable adjustable garment pattern template
US20170136637A1 (en) * 2014-06-27 2017-05-18 Koninklijke Philips N.V. An actuating mechanism for controlling the cutting length of a hair trimmer
US10843353B2 (en) * 2014-06-27 2020-11-24 Koninklijke Philips N.V. Actuating mechanism for controlling the cutting length of a hair trimmer

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
GB938623A (en) 1963-10-02
GB938622A (en) 1963-10-02
BE618231A (fr) 1962-11-28
CH405199A (de) 1966-01-15

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