US2989018A - Method for operating on sweater blanks - Google Patents

Description

June 20, 1961 w. BLEICHER METHOD FOR OPERATING ON SWEATER BLANKS 6 Sheets-Sheet 1 Original Filed Dec. 19, 1955 ATTORNEYS June 20, 1961 w. BLEICHER 2,989,018

METHOD FOR OPERATING ON SWEATER BLANKS Original Filed Dec. 19, 1955 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 Q R Q [Il 'l E h I g ATTORNEYS June 20, 1961 w. BLEICHER METHOD FOR OPERATING ON SWEATER BLANKS Filed Dec. 19, 1955 6 Sheets-Sheet 25 Original 1 m. IE

ATTORNEYS mm MN wk? A.

June 20, 1961 w. BLEICHER 2,989,018

METHOD FOR OPERATING ON SWEATER BLANKS Original Filed Dec. 19, 1955 6 Sheets-Sheet 4 Q Q LL.

IN VEN TOR. Mflmu 04 .ATTORNEKS' 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR M W Mi 4 ATTORNEYS June 20, 1961 w. BLEICHER METHOD FOR OPERATING 0N SWEATER BLANKS Original Filed Dec. 19, 1955 June 20, 1961 w. BLEICHER 2,989,018

METHOD FOR OPERATING ON SWEATER BLANKS Original Filed Dec. 19, 1955 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 3 MW... Wml

ATTORNEYS United States Patent Q 2,989,018 METHOD FOR OPERATING ON SWEATER BLANKS William Bleicher, Packanack Lake, NJ assignor to Trim Master Corporation, a corporation of Pennsylvania Original application Dec. 19, 1955, Ser. No. 553,873, now Patent No. 2,873,704, dated Feb. 17, 1959. Divided and this application Ian. 30, 1958, Ser. No. 714,455

Claims. (Cl. 112-262) This invention relates to a new and improved method and new and improved mechanism for sewing longitudinal binders or tapes to weft-knitted material and slitting said material between the sewed-on tapes.

This application is a division of my co-pe-nding US. patent application, Serial No. 553,873 for Method and Mechanism for Operating on Sweater Blanks, now Patent No. 2,873,704 granted February 17, 1959.

In particular, the invention relates to sewing longitudinal tapes to a tubular weft-knitted blank such as the body of a sweater and slitting said blank longitudinally between said sewed-on tapes. This invention applies to garments other than sweaters.

This tubular weft-knitted blank may be a seamless blank which can 'be knitted on the weft-known circular knitting machine.

This tubular blank may be a seamed blank which is made by knitting the weft-knitted material in flat form, and then connecting the side edges of the flat material by a longitudinal seamor suture.

Such seamless or seamed blank is easily stretchable in the direction of its height or longitudinal axis.

It has been the practice, for many years, if a sweater of the coat type was desired, to knit a tubular weftknitted blank, either a seamed blank or a seamless blank, and first to slit said weft-knitted tubular blank longitudinally. It has been attempted to knit this blank to correct height or length for the selected size. However, due to the easy stretch of weft-knitted fabric during the knitting, the length of this blank often is not the correct length for the selected size.

Prior to slitting, the weft-knitted blank has usually been subjected to preliminary operations, such as dyeing, which have changed the original length of the knitted blank.

After the blank has been slit, the practice has been to apply two pre-cut tapes, first sewing one tape to one edge of the slit, and then sewing the other tape to the other edge of the slit. These tapes have been pre-cut to the correct length for the selected size. An ordinary sewing machine has been used to sew each tape to its respective slit edge. As above noted, the length of the slit-edge is often greater or less than the pre-cut length of the tape. It is necessary for the operator either to stretch a short slit-edge, or to form gathers in a long slit edge, during the sewing operation, so that the ends of the sewed-on pre-cut tape should coincide with the ends of the respective slit-edge. This has required highly skilled labor, and even then, many sweaters have not had the proper fit, hang and appearance.

I eliminate these difiiculties and secure fast and uniform production, and other advantages later stated herein.

The machine later described has three main units, namely, a sewing machine, an endless belt 'conveyorlocated in front of said sewing machine, and slitting mechanism located behind said sewing machine.

The sewing machine has two feed-dogs. One feeddog operates solely on the material of the unslitted blank, to feed said blank towards the needles of the sewing machine. This feed-dog is designated as the front feeddog. The other feed-dog operates both on the material ICC of the unslitted blank and its sewed-on tapes, to feed them towards the slitting mechanism.

The conveyor and said feed-dogs may be operated in successive intermittent feeding strokes. The conveyor and said feed-dogs may have the same number of feedmg strokes per minute, so that their respective feeding rates may depend upon the respective lengths of their respective feeding strokes. These feeding strokes may be simultaneous.

The fespective lengths of said respective feeding strokes may be adjusted by any adjusting means, many of which are well known.

In one embodiment of the invention, the conveyor and the rear feed-dog have simultaneous feeding strokes of the same length, to provide the same feeding rates, and the front feed-dog has simultaneous feeding strokes of greater length than the feeding strokes of the belt conveyor and the feed-dog.

The invention is further explained in the annexed drawings and description.

FIG. 1 is a perspective view of the improved machine. The feed is from left to right.

FIG. 2 is a longitudinal elevation of certain parts of the machine, partly in vertical section.

FIG. 3 is a horizontal section, partly in top plan view, on the line 33 of FIG. 2.

FIG. 4 is a section on the line 44 of FIG. 2.

FIG. 5 is a top plan view of the machine, the representation of certain parts being omitted.

. FIG. 6 is a longitudinal vertical section on the line- 66 of FIG. 3. It shows both feed-dogs in their lower or inactive or non-feeding positions, in which positions said feed-dogs are being moved reversely in rear, nonfeeding strokes towards the left, as viewed in FIG. 6. The upper movable cutting or slitting knife which is later mentioned, is shown in its lower slitting or cutting position.

FIG. 7 is similar to FIG. 6, showing both said feeddogs in their upper positions, during their forward feeding strokes which is to the right, as viewed in FIG. 7. The cutting knife is shown in its upper idle position.

FIG. 8 is a section on the line 88 of FIG. 5.

FIG. 9 is a perspective exploded view of the parts of the differential feed mechanism later mentioned herein.

FIG. 10 is a perspective view, partially in section, which illustrates the intervening irregular gathers which are formed according to the old method.

FIG. 11 shows the great improvement which results from the improved method. In FIG. 11 the gathers are of uniform width and height throughout.

FIG, 12 is a top plan view of the conveyor, showing in broken lines how the conveyor can be turned out of its operating position of FIG. 1, if it is desired to thread the loopers of the sewing machine which form the chain stitches, or to make any other adjustment or repair or replacement.

FIG. 13 is a section, partially in elevation, on the line 1313 of FIG. 12.

FIG. 14 is a section on the line 1414 of FIG. 13.

FIG. 15 is a section on the line 1515 of FIG. 14.

FIG. 16 is a section on the line 16-16 of FIG. 15.

FIG. 17 is a section on the line 17-17 of FIG. 16.

FIG. 18 is a sectional view on the line 18-18 of FIG. 6.

FIG. 19 is an enlarged perspective view in the direction of the arrow 19 of FIG. 3.

FIG. 20 is a top plan view of a chain of connected sweaters which result from the improved method.

FIG. 21 is a section on the line 2121 of FIG. 20.

FIG. 22 is a sectional view which illustrates the finished position of the tape.

The machine comprises a table 1, which is supported on legs 2. A suitable sewing machine S is fixed to the table 1 or to any other support. This sewing machine S may be of a well-known commercial chain-stitch type, which has been modified for the purposes of this invention. As one example, the standard chain-stitch sewing machine which is thus modified, is known in the trade as Union Special l1900-K machine. In commercial form, this machine has two needles, but it has only one looper, so that it ordinarily makes a stitch of the type known as 406.

As shown in FIG. 19, the modified chain-stitch sewing machine S has the usual two needles 3 and 4'. As shown in FIG. 2, the machine S has two loopers 44 and 45, which are fixed to the looper shaft 46 of the machine S. This shaft 46 is operated and the loopers 44 and 45 are operated in the usual manner. The machine S thus forms two parallel rows of chain stitches 49, which sew tapes 38 and 39 to the top of the blank B, before the body or blank B is slitted between the sewed-on tapes 38 and 39.

The needle-plate 83 is shown in FIG. 9. In FIG. 9, the feed is from right to left. This needle-plate 83 has a fixed longitudinal cutting edge or knife edge 100. This may be the cutting edge of a steel insert which is fixed in said needle-plate 83. Said needle-plate 83 has needleholes 80 and 81, which have a relative longitudinal offset, instead of being on the same lateral line. The vertical needles 3 and 4 are also correspondingly longitudinally offset as shown in FIG. 13. These needles 3 and 4 are vertically reciprocated inthe usual manner. The sewing machine S has the usual presser foot P, which operates in the usual manner.

The sewing machine S also has a main shaft 5 which has a pulley which is continuously rotated in the same direction by a belt 6, which is connected to the pulley of the usual motor. Said main shaft 5 has a number of eccentrics E, each of which has the usual strap or sleeve 5a. These straps or sleeves 5a operate selected members.

The conveyor The conveyor C is mounted in a casing 21, which has a U-shape and is open at its top.

As shown in FIG. 13, the casing 21 is fixed to a bottom plate 111, which is fixed to a vertical pivot sleeve 109, which is turnable on vertical pivot stud 110, which is fixed to table 1. Whenever desired, the plate 111 and the casing 21 and the conveyor C can be turned in unison around the vertical axis of pivot stud 110, from the longitudinal operating position of FIG. 1 to the idle position of FIG. 12 or beyond said idle position shown in FIG. 12, in order to get access to the sewing machine S for any desired purpose.

The conveyor C is a flexible, endless belt, made of canvas or other suitable material. It has a top run 7, which is moved longitudinally forwardly towards the sewing machine S, when the conveyor is in its longitudinal operating position of FIG. 1.

As shown in FIG. 13, the conveyor C is mounted on a rear idler roll 8 and on a front driven roll 9 which have horizontal, lateral axes. This driven roll 9, which is proximate to the sewing machine 5, is turned intermittently in the same direction, in respective equal angular strokes, whose angle can be adjusted, in order to feed top run 7 forwardly and longitudinally towards the needles 3 and 4, in intermittent forward strokes of selected equal length. When viewed as in FIG. 17, the driven roll 9 is turned intermittently clockwise. This can be done by various well-known mechanisms.

As shown in FIG. 14, said driven roll 9 has lateral ribs in the direction of its laterally disposed and horizontal shaft 10. As shown in FIG. 13, shaft 10 is turnable in bearings which are fixed to the vertical walls of casing 21. Roll 9 is fixed to its lateral shaft 10. This can be done by one or more set-screws 11, shown in FIG. 16, which are located in radial recesses of the driven roll 9.

As shown in FIG. 16, each end-face of the driven roll 9 has an axial or a lateral end-recess of cylindrical shape.

One cylindrical end-recess of roll 9 has an actuator, which is oscillated in alternate and opposed active strokes and idle strokes. This actuator engages and turns roll 9 in the active strokes of said actuator, and said actuator releases roll 9 in the reverse idle strokes of said actuator, so that roll 9 is intermittently turned in only a single direction. Any conventional means can be used for this purpose. In this embodiment, and without limitation thereto, the actuator consists of a plate 12 and one-way clutch means. As viewed in FIG. 17, when plate 12 is turned clockwise, its clutch-means engage the inner cylindrical periphery of the respective end-recess of roll 9, thus turning roll 9 clockwise in unison with plate 12 as viewed in FIG. 17, through a selected angle. When plate 12 is turned counterclockwise, as viewed in FIG. 17, said one-way clutch means release roll 9, which remains stationary when plate 12 is thus turned, so that roll 9 is turned intermittently in only the clockwise direction, as viewed in FIG. 17.

Plate 12 is loose on shaft 10, so that plate 12 is freely turnable back-and-forth relative to shaft 10.

Plate 12 has a set of horizontal and lateral planar walls or faces 15. A clutch-roll 14, which is turnable about its horizontal and lateral axis relative to the respective face 15, movably and turnably abuts each face 15. Each clutch-roll 14 is associated with a plunger 16, which fits slida-bly in a respective bore of plate 12. Each plunger 16 is located counterclockwise relative to its roll 14, when viewed as in FIG. 17. Each plunger 16 is associated with a compression spring 17. The compression springs 17 bias the plungers 16 to urge the clutch-rolls 14 along the respective planar walls or faces 15, towards the narrow ends of the spaces which are provided between the faces 15 and the respective inner cylindrical periphery of the respective end-recess of roll 9. Hence the clutch-rolls 14 engage said inner cylindrical periphery of the endrecess of driven roll 9, in order to turn driven roll 9 in unison with plate 12, when plate 12 is turned clockwise, as viewed in FIG. 17. When plate 12 is turned counterclockwise, as viewed in FIG. 17, the turnable clutch-rolls 14 turn around their respective axes and slip relative to driven roll 9, and do not turn roll 9 reversely.

Plate 12 is fixed to a disc or plate 18 by screws 20, so that plate 18 oscillates in unison with plate 12, Plate 18 is also loosely mounted on shaft 10.

As shown in FIG. 16, one end of a link 22 is pivot-ally connected to plate 18. This is done by a pivot screw 23, which has a smooth cylindrical shank which fits in a smooth cylindrical bore of link 22. Said screw 23 is fixed to plate 18. FIG. 13 shows an arcuate slot 112 in one vertical wall of casing 21, through which the cylindrical pivot shank of screw 23 extends. Said screw 23 is movable back-and-forth in said arcuate slot 112.

As shown in FIG. 13, the other end of link 22 is adjustably and releasably fixed to a rod 24, by cooperating screw-threads. One end of rod 24 has a ball, which fits turnably in a spherical socket which is provided at the proximate end of a head 25, to provide a conventional universal-joint coupling. The vertical axis of said ball is coincident with the vertical axis of pivot stud 110, around which the casing 21 is turnable. Hence the easing 21 and its conveyor C can be turned around the common vertical axis of said ball and pivot stud 110, to the position illustrated in FIG. 12, without releasing rod 24 from the head 25. This provides very convenient means for getting access to the sewing machine S, when desired. It is not necessary to disconnect the driving mechanism of the conveyor, in order to turn casing 21 around said common vertical axis. The universal-joint connection between rod 24 and head 25 also permits link 22 to turn relative to head 25, when link 22 is actuated while the conveyor C in the operating position of FIG. 1.

The other end of head 25 is turnably connected to a pivot pin 26, which is adjustably located in a slot 27 of a plate 28, After adjusting pivot pin 26 to Manatee position in slot 27, the pivot pin 26 can be held releasably in its adjusted position in slot 27 by conventional means.

Thus, the pin 26 can be clamped in its selected adjusted position in slot 27, since head 25 is turnable relative to pivot pin 26.

As shown in FIG. 2,, the lower end of plate 28 is connected by a pivot 108 to one end of a rod or link"107, whose other end is connected by pivot 109a to the frame of the machine. The plate 28 can thus be oscillated around pivot 108, thus actuating link 22 back-and-forth, and thus oscillating plate 12 and roll 9 in unison, to actuate the top run 7 of conveyor C forwardly towards the sewing station, in feeding strokes of regulated length, as determined by the adjustment of pin 26 in slot 27.

Plate 28 is oscillated around its pivot 108 by a link or rod 105 i As shown in FIGS. 2, and 13, plate 28 is connected by a pivot pin 29 to one end of said link or rod 105, whose other end is pivoted by pivot pin 106 to the rock arm 30 which is shown in FIG. 2 and FIG. 5. As shown in FIG. 2, the pivot pin 106 is adjustable in a slot 104 of the integral head 103 of the rec -arm 30, thus providing additional means for regulating the stroke of conveyor C. The pivot pin 106 is held in its adjusted position by conventional means. As shown in FIG. 2, said rock-arm 30 is turnable on a pivot-stud 31, which is fixed to the frame F of the sewing machine S. At one end thereof, the rock arm 30 is connected by pivot pin 32 to a rod 33, which is integral with the usual respective eccentric strap or sleeve 5a which fits on one of the eccentrics E which are fixed to the main shaft 5 of the sewing machine S. The eccentric E and its sleeve or strap 5a operate to actuate rod 33 and rock the arm 30 around stud 31, thus actuating the link 105 in a reciprocating stroke of selected length. As above noted, the pivot 29 of the plate 28 is connected to the adjacent end of the rod or link 105, so that link 105 oscillates plate 28, thus operating link 22 and the roll 9and conveyor C.

The plate 28 is thus oscillated or rocked by arm 30 and link 105, around the axis of pivot pin 108, thus actuating head 25 and link 22, to oscillate the plate 12 and roll 9 and to actuate the top run 7 of conveyor C in intermit: tent forward feeding strokes towards the sewing machine S,

The other cylindrical end-recess of driven roll 9 has a brake-unit, which prevents reverse turning of roll so that the top run 7 of the belt C is actuated only in a forward direction. This reverse direction is counterclockwise, as viewed in FIG. 17. I

This brake-unit comprises a plate which is identical with plate 12, and brake-rolls 14a which are identical with clutch-rolls 14. Said brake-unit also has said plungers 16 and compression springs 17 The plate of said brakeunit is fixed to a companion plate 18a, which is fixed to the respective vertical wall of casing 21, by one or more screws 115, which are shown in FIG, 16.

As viewed in FIG. 17, the positions of brake-rolls 14a and of their plungers and of the planar surfacesof the plate of said brake-unit, are reverse to the positions of these parts in the actuator for roll 9.

Hence the brake-unit permits the roll 9 to turn in the selected or feeding direction, and prevents reverse turmng of roll 9. As above noted, there are many well-known mechanisms for turning the driven roll 9 in interrmttent strokes of selected angle in a single direction, and any such mechanism can be used.

As shown in FIG. 1, a longitudinal scale of length 43 is fixed to each vertical wall of casing 21. 7

As shown in FIG, 14, an inverted rigid U-shaped plate 40 is fixed by screws 41 to .the parallel vertical walls of casing 21. This plate '40 has a top, median, vertical, longitudinal rib 42, over which the top run 7 of conyeyor C is located. The longitudinal median part'of top slidably'abuts the top of rib 42. A median longit-udinal peak is thus formed in said top run 7 and also in the unslitted body of blank B at the top of'rib 42. The

blank B is provided with a longitudinal drop stitch or other longitudinal marker. The operator manually locates said marker of blank B at and along the top of rib 42, and manually presses the lateral legs of the flexible top run 7 and of the blank B and also manually presses the tapes 38 and 39 towards the peak of the top run 7, at the respective outer end of blank B. The marker of blank B is thus kept in accurate sliding registration with rib 42. The blank B and the tapes 38 and 39 are thus prevented from shifting relative to each other at the rear or neck end of the tubular blank B and at the rear ends of the measured lengths of the tapes 38 and 39. The blank B and top run 7 and the rear ends of the measured lengths of the tapes are moved in unison relative to the fixed rib 42'. The tapes 38 and 39 are withdrawn from respective reels.

The operator first forms two or three anchoring chain stitches at the front end of blank B and in the adjacent parts of tapes 38 and 39, by means of the needles 3 and 4 and the loopers 44 and 45, operating the sewing machine S for this purpose. These anchoring stitches are formed in each of the two rows 49 of said stitches. At this time, the blank B is unslitted. The presser foot P is lowered in its clamping position, thus clamping the front end of the unslitted blank and the tapes.

The operator then measures the proper lengths of the two tapes 38 and 39 from these anchoring stitches, such as a length of nineteen inches for each tape. This is easily done by the scales 43. The top of blank B is at this time mounted in its normal unstretched length on the top run 7 of the conveyor C. That is, the blank B now has its unstretched length, which may be greater or less than the correct length for the respective size of the sweater or other garment.

The operator can then easily determine whether the normal unstretched length of the blank B is equal to or less or greater than the correct measured lengths of the uncut and non-stretchable tapes 38 and 39.

If the unslitted, tubular weft-knitted blank B is too short for the respective size, the operator stretches the blank B to the selected and correct length of the uncut tapes, and manually holds the blank B in its stretched length, together with the tapes 38 and 39, at the unanchored rear neck end of the blank, as shown in FIG. 1. The blank B and the rear ends of the correct measured lengths of the tapes 38 and 39 are laterally pressed towards the fixed rib 42, which provides a convenient fingerhold. If the unslitted blank B is too short, it is thus manually kept stretched to proper length for the selected size on the top run 7, while the blank B and the tapes 38 and 39 and the hand of the operator are moved forwardly towards the sewing machine, in unison with top run 7 of conveyor C. In such case, the feed of front feed-dogD, which operates to feed the blank B towards the needles 3 and 4, may have the same rate of feed as the feed of the top run 7. As above noted, this front feed-dogD operates only on the material of the blank B. Optionally, the feed of the front feed-dog D may be longer or shorter than the feed of top run 7, depending on the particular case.

In any event, if the normal unstretched length of blank B is shorter than the correct measured lengths of the tapes 38 and 39, whose measured lengths correspond to the proper selected size, the blank B is held stretched to the correct selected length while the tapes 38 and 39' are sewed to blank B anterior the slitting station. The rear or neck end of blank B and the tapes 38 and 39 can be manually released at or close to the needles 3 and 4.

If the original unslitted blank B is too long for the respective size, the top wall of blank B, while its front end and the tapes are thus held fixed by or at presser foot P, is gathered or puckered in transverse folds between its front anchored end and its rear manually-gripped end,

7 so that its length of blank B on the top wall 7, as measured on a straight line between its anchored front end and its gripped rear end, at which the blank B is gripped to the rear ends of the measured correct lengths of tapes 38 and 39, is the correct selected length of the two long and uncut tapes 38 and 39.

In such case, the forward feed of the front feed-dog D is adjusted to provide a differential feed which is faster than the forward feed of the top run 7 of conveyor C. Said differential feed of the front feed-dog D is, in this case, also faster than the forward feed of the rear feeddog M. In this case, the rate of feed of the top run 7 and of the rear feed-dog may be equal.

Uniform and small gathers are thus formed in the part of blank B which abuts the top run 7 of conveyor C, in front of the needles 3 and 4, and the tapes 38 and 39 are sewed to the gathered material of blank B.

The rear ends of the correct measured lengths of the tapes are also held against the rear unanchored end of blank B, until said rear end is at or close to needles 3 and 4. The correct measured lengths of the tapes 38 and 39 are held taut in every case, without any gathers, during the sewing.

In operating on any blank B, the respective feeds of conveyor C and of the feed-dogs D and M, which are later more fully described, can be selected at the beginning of each operation on each blank B.

The conveyor C is held under selected longitudinal tension by suitable means. In this embodiment, the lateral and horizontal shaft 34 of the rear idler roll -8 extends through respective longitudinal slots 36 in both vertical walls of casing 21.

The rear idler roll 8 is turnable on its lateral shaft 34. Said shaft 34 is provided with external heads 35. A longitudinal adjusting screw 37 is turnably mounted in a lug of each vertical wall of casing 21. By turning the screws 37, they force the heads 35 and the shaft 34 longitudinally towards the rear end-wall of casing 21, which is at the left of FIG. 1, thus selectively applying longitudinal tension to conveyor C. The shaft 34 is slidable in slots 36.

T ape-guides Each tape 38 and 39 is led off a suitable reel or roll. Each tape has an original flat shape. The tapes 38 and 39 extend through respective angular tape guides 47 and 48, which are in front of the sewing station which is pro vided by the needles 3 and 4 and their loopers 44 and 45. The tapes 38 and 39 are thus angularly bent by their guides 47 and 48 anterior the sewing station to angular shapes, each tape being thus bent to have a vertical leg and a horizontal lateral leg. The horizontal legs of tapes 38 and 39 extend laterally in opposite directions from said vertical legs. Each row of stitches 49 is formed in a respective horizontal tape-leg and also in the top Wall of the unslitted blank B. The tapes 38 and 39 are flexible, but they have sufiicient rigidity so that they are held in said angular shapes at the cutting station, so that the longitudinal slit in the top wall of blank B is formed between the vertical tape-legs.

Feed-dog mechanism FIG. 9 shows a front feed-dog D, which operates only in front of the needles 3 and 4, to feed only the top wall of the unslitted blank B towards the needles 3 and 4 and their loopers 44 and 45. As above noted, the direction of feed is from right to left in FIG. 9, so that slot DS is a front slot of the needle-plate 83. Said needle-plate 83 also has two longitudinal slots MA, and another needle slot 100. Feed-dog D operates in the three slots MA-DS-MA of the needle-plate 83. This feed-dog D has a rigid frame 65, which has three parallel and longitudinal rows of teeth 62, 63, 64, which operate in said slots MADSMA of the needle plate 83, anterior the needle holes .80 and 81 of needle-Plate 83,. The .short intermediate slot DS defines the 'length'of the feeding stroke of front feed-dog D.

FIG. 9 also shows the rear feed-dog M which operates in feeding strokes both in front and in rear of needles 3 and 4, to feed the blank B and also to feed the tapes 38 and 39 towards the needles 3 and 4 and also to feed the blank and its sewed tapes away from the needles 3 and 4, towards and through the cutting station. This feed-dog M has three parallel and longitudinal rows of teeth 50, 51, 52.

These teeth 50, 51, 52 operate in respective slots of the needle-plate 83. The middle row 51 of teeth of feed-dog M operates only in needle-slot behind the needles 3 and 4. The outer rows 52 and 50 operate in slots MA, partly in front of and partly behind the needles 3 and 4.

The rear feed-dog M has a frame 53 which is fixed to a longitudinal, cylindrical rod 54. This rod 54 is shown in broken form in FIG. 9, for convenience of illustration.

This longitudinal rod 54 fits slidably in a cylindrical bore of a head 55, which is integral with the frame 65 of the front feed-dog D. This frame 65 is shown in broken form in FIG. 9 for convenience of illustration. Suitable means may be provided for preventing the rod 54 from turning around its longitudinal axis in said cylindrical bore of head 55.

Each said feed-dog D and M is moved in an upper longitudinal feeding stroke forwardly towards the needles, and also in a lower longitudinal idle or non-feeding stroke in the reverse or rear direction. Each feed-dog D and M is given a short vertical movement at the end of each longitudinal feeding stroke and at the end of each idle stroke, as is usual in operating the feed-dogs of a sewing machine.

FIG. 6 shows each feed-dog D and M in its lower nonfeeding position, at the end of a rearward idle stroke. In such position, the tops of the teeth of said feed-dogs D and M are in the same lower horizontal plane relative to and below the top face of needle-plate 83, which is shown in section in FIGS. 6 and 7.

FIG. 7 shows feed-dog D and feed-dog M in their upper positions, at the beginning of their respective forward feeding strokes. The tops of the teeth of said feed-dogs D and M are then in the same horizontal plane.

These feed-dogs D and M are moved in unison in their vertical movements. As above noted, the hollow head '55 is integral with the frame 65 of the front feed-dog D, and the frame 53 of the rear feed-dog M is integral with cylindrical rod 54, which fits closely and slidably in a cylindrical bore of said hollow head 55.

This head 55 is moved up and down, in order to move the feed-dogs D and M vertically in unison.

For this purpose, and as shown in FIG. 9, a link 69 is pivoted at 70 to the hollow head 55, and said link 69 is pivoted at 68 to rock-arm 66. Only parts of rock-arm 66 are shown in FIG. 9, for clarity of illustration. This rockarm 66 is pivoted at 67 to the frame F, and the end of rock-arm 66 which is not shown in FIG. 9, is pivoted on the rod or stud 31 which is shown in FIG. 2 and which is fixed to the frame F of the machine S. Said rock-arm 66 is operated like the rock-arm 30, by a respective eccentric 5a on the main shaft 5 of the sewing machine S. The rod 33a corresponds to rod 33, and pivot 32a corresponds to pivot 32. The sole function of rock-arm 66 is to shift the head 55 up-and-down and thus to vertically shift the feed-dogs D and M in unison.

The rod 54 which is fixed to frame 53 of the rear feeddog M, also fits in and extends slidably through a sleeve 56 which is integral with head 55. Said rod 54 also fits in and extends slidably through a bore of a head 57, which is integral with sleeve 56. The rear end of rod 54 is fixed to a clamp 58 which is integral with the head 59. As above noted, the frame 65 of the rear feed-dog D is fixed to the head 55, so that said frame 65 is fixed rigidly to head 57.

One end of a link 72 is connected to the head 57 by a pivot 71. The other end of the link 72 is turnable on a pivot pin 73, which is adjustably and releasably held in the slot 74 of an angular arm 75. As in other cases in which a pin is stated to be adjustable in a slot, conventional means are provided for holding the pin 73 releasably clamped in selected adjusted position in slot 74.

This arm 75 has an angular rigid extension which is connected by pivot 79 to the head 59, which as previously noted, is fixed rigidly to rod 54 and hence to the frame 53 of the rear feed-dog M.

Ann 75 is connected by a pivot 76 to the upper ends of a pair of links 77. These two links 77 are connected at their lower ends by pivot 78 to one end of a rock'arm 61, which is turnable on the pivot-stud 31 which is fixed to the frame F of machine S. This arm 61 is pivoted at 60 to the head 59. The hub of the arm 61 which is tumable on the fixed pivot-stud 31 may be integral with or fixed to the hub of the arm 30, or arm 61 may be operated by a respective eccentric So on shaft in unison with arm 30.

It is assumed, as one example, that the pivot pin 73 is adjusted in the slot 74, until the axis of pivot pin 73 is coincident with the axis of pivot pin 79. As above noted, pivot pin 79 turnably connects the extension of arm 75 to the head 59. It is assumed that the rock-arm 30 is turned counterclockwise from its position of FIG. 9, around the axis of pivot stud 31.

Arm 61 will turn counterclockwise around pivot-stud 31 in unison with arm 30, because the hubs of arms 61 and 30 on the pivot stud 31 are either integnal, or are fixed rigidly to each other, or arm 61 is operated in unison with arm 30 by a respective eccentric 5a on shaft 5. Due to the pivotal connection 60* between arm 61 and head 59, this turning movement of arm 61 will move head 59, the rod 54 which is fixed to head 59 by clamp 58, and the rear feed-dog M which is fixed to rod 54, to the left of their respective positions shown in FIG. 9, thus moving the rear feed-dog M in a left feeding stroke.

This assumed counterclockwise turning movement of arm 61 will also turn arm 75 clockwise around its pivot 79, by means of the links 77, which are wholly independent of the rock-arm 30 and its head 103. That is, the only connection between rock-arm 30 and arm 75, is the connection provided by arm 61, links 77 and pivots 76 and 78.

The clockwise turning movement of arm 75 and its extension around pivot 79 will operate link 72 to move head 57 (which is slidable relative to head 59 and rod 54) in an equal longitudinal feeding stroke to the left, if the pivots 73 and 79 are on the same horizontal axis. In such case, if the axes of pivot pins 73 and 79 are maintained horizontally coincident, the two feed-dogs M and D will be operated in equal longitudinal strokes, in the same number of strokes per minute, so that both feeddogs M and D will have the same feeding rate.

It is now assumed that, as shown in FIG. 9, the horizontal axis of pivot 73 is below the horizontal axis of pivot 79.

In such case, the head 57, sleeve 56, head 55, frame 65 and the front feed-dog D will have a longer longitudinal feeding stroke than the elements 59--58-54M.

Feed-dogs D and M will then have the same number of strokes per minute, and feed-dog D will have a greater feeding rate than feed-dog M.

The feeding strokes of D and M are always in the same direction, and their reverse of idle or non-feeding strokes are always in the same direction. That is, as viewed in FIG. 9, when arm 75 is turned counterclockwise, around pivot 79 by links 77 and arm 61, this urges link 72 and the assembly 575655D to the right; and arm 61 and pivot 60 simultaneously also urge the assembly 59- 54M to the right.

Hence, if the unstretched or normal blank B is of correct length, the pivot 73 is adjusted in slot 74 until the horizontal axes of pivots 73 and 79 are coincident. In

such case, the length of the feeding strokes of the top run 7 can be adjusted until top run 7, front feed-dog D, rear feed-dog M have feeding strokes of the same length and the same number per minute. In such case, the rate of feed will be the same towards the needles 3 and 4, and away from the needles 3 and 4 towards the cutting station.

As one example, if the normal unstretched length of the blank B is greater than the proper length for the respective size, the pivot pin 73 is adjusted below its position in which its horizontal axis is coincident with the horizontal axis of pivot 79, thus providing a greater rate of feed of front feed-dog D, which may be greater than the rate of feed of conveyor C.

The slot 74 may be of sufiicient height so that when pivot pin 73 is at the top of slot 74, the axis of pivot 73 may be coincident with or above the axis of pivot 79.

If the axis of pivot pin 73 is kept above the axis of pivot 79, a different differential feed is secured.

As above noted, it is well known to adjust the length of the feed stroke of a feed-dog by well-known means, which can be used for the purposes of this invention.

Slitting mechanism A vertical flat bar or bracket 89 is fixed by screws 90 to the head of the sewing machine. A rock-arm 92 is pivoted at 2911 to said head. Said rock-arm 92 is oscillated by a respective eccentric E on main shaft 5. The rod 33b corresponds to rod 33. Said rod 33b is pivotally connected, as by a ball-and-socket joint, to rock-arm 92. This rock-arm 92 vertically reciprocates the needles 3 and 4.

An angular knife-rod 86 is pivoted at 91 to the rockarm 92, and is also pivoted at 88 to the bracket 89. A screw 101, which has a lock-nut 102, extends through a threaded bore of bracket 89, to abut the angular kniferod 86.

A knife 82 is adjustably fixed to knife-rod 86 by clamping screws 87. This knife 82 has a lug 85 which is movably located in the slot 100 of the needle-plate 83. Said knife 82 has a cutting edge 84. The lug 85 alsohas a sharp cutting edge.

The knife 82 is thus operated in its slitting stroke, while the feed of the work is stopped.

FIG. 20 shows another important advantage. The tapes 38 and 39 are designated as uncut tapes, because they can be of any length.

After one blank B has been sewed to the tapes 38 and 39 and then slitted, the feed of the tapes 38 and 39 can be continued, before putting another blank B on the top run 7. This results in a chain of blanks B, which have intermediate spaces 97.

After a chain of blanks of any length has been formed, the tapes 38 and 39 can be laterally cut to be flush with the ends of the blanks B.

FIG 22 shows how the material of blank B is turned to provide a fold 98, which is spaced from the slit edge.

The respective edge of the respective tape is then sewed to the blank B by longitudinal stitches 99.

FIG. '2. shows the bearings 114 for the shaft 10.

Hence, according to my invention, I progressively sew the tapes to an unslitted blank, while the straight-line length of the blank is the correct length for the respective size, by either stretching the blank or forming gathers in the blank, if the normal unstretched or ungathered length of the blank is not the correct length for the respective size.

The belt C may turn in unison with its driven roll or pulley 9, or there may be a slip between the belt C and its driven pulley 9, so that the longitudinal feeding rate of top run 7 may be less than if there was no such slip. Even if there is normally no slip between the belt C and its driven pulley 9, such slip can be produced by applying braking pressure upon the top run 7, as by firmly manual- 1y pressing the top run against the rib 42, or by any regu lated braking device.

This can be used to regulate the feeding rate of top run 7 towards the sewing machine, instead of regulating the feeding rate of the front feed-dog D.

Thus, if there is no slip between belt C and its drive pulley 9, and the blank B is too short and must be kept under longitudinal stretch in front of the needles 3 and 4, the rate of feed of the front feed-dog D may be regulated to have the same feed or a faster feed than the top run 7. Also, if the blank B is too long and is gathered on top run 7, the rate of feed of front feed-dog D may be adjusted to be faster than the top run 7.

By producing a slip between belt C and its drive pulley 9, the rate of feed of top run 7 is lowered, thus producing the same eifect as if the belt C does not slip and the rate of feed of front feed-dog Dis greater than the rate of feed of the top run 7.

Hence the method disclosed herein can be practiced by different mechanisms.

Many changes, additions, modifications and substitutions can be made without departing from the scope of the invention.

I claim:

1. A method of reinforcing a tubular, stretchable fabric blank and forming a longitudinal slit in the blank, said blank having a front end and a rear end, said blank being thus reinforced by sewing respective longitudinal tapes to the edges of said slit, which consists in forwardly and longitudinally andv progressively feeding said blank and said tapes in unison in intermittent forward strokes successively through a fixed sewing station and a fixed slitting station, sewing said tapes to the front end of said blank when said blank first reaches said fixed sewing station, measuring a selected length of each said tape rearwardly from the point thereof at which it is sewn to the front of said blank, adjusting the length of the blank to conform to said tape length, holding the rear ends of said lengths of tape to the rear end of said blank while said blank and said tapes are thus fed, progressively forming said slit in said blank between the previously sewed-on tapes, and holding said tapes taut and substantially parallel to the longitudinal line of said slit while said blank and said tapes are thus fed.

2. A method according to claim 1, in which said tapes have normal fiat shapes, and said tapes are held in angular form-anterior to and in the sewing station and also.

between said sewing station and also in said cutting station, said angular forms having horizontal legs and vertical legs, only said horizontal legs being sewed to the unslitted blank, said slit being formed between saidvertical legs.

3. A method according to claim 1 in which the straightline length of said garment blank is shorter than said selected lengths of tapes and said garment blank is'held stretched to said selected lengths during the sewing operation.

4. A method according to claim 1 in which the straightline length of said garment blank is longer than said selected lengths of said tapes, said blank is maintained gathered anterior the sewing station to provide said gathered blank with a modified straight-line length which is equal to said selected length, and the intermittent strokes in which said gathered blank is fed towards said sewing station are longer than the intermittent strokes in which said tapes are fed towards said sewing station.

5. A method according to claim 1, in which the length of said tapes is greater than the total lengths of two of said blanks, both tapes are fed longitudinally through said stations after said blank has been slitted, and the rear ends of additional measured lengths of said tapes are applied to a second blank, and said operations are repeated on the second blank to provide a chain of reinforced and slitted blanks.

References Cited in the' file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,282,528 Biggs Oct. 22, 1918 1,516,256 Weis Nov. 18, 1924 1,659,559 Bates Feb. 21, 1928 2,072,050 Sharps Feb. 23, 1937 2,134,329 Ebert Oct. 25, 1938 2,183,257 Hardie et a1 Dec. 12, 1939 2,269,491 Snyder Jan. 13, 1942 2,346,637 Wesson Apr. 11, 1944 2,352,355 Young June 27, 1944 2,492,925 Segur Dec. 27, 1949 2,549,294 De Marco Apr. 17, 1951 2,676,557 Silverberg Apr. 27, 1954 2,685,664 Visconti Aug. 3, 1954 2,708,968 Soave May 24, 1955

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