US2277721A - Sewing machine for making plaited or shirred trimming - Google Patents

Description

March 31, 1942. c. SEAMAN 2,277,721

SEWING MACHINE FOR MAKING FLEATED OR SHIRRED TRIMMING Filed oct. 17, 1939 e SheetsSheet 1 0c 66 3 V 725 I g IN V ENTOR.

ARL ES SEAMAN ATTORNEY.

3- 1, 1942. Q s A N I 2,277,721

SEWING MAGHHZNE} EOE MflK-ING PLEATED 0R SHIRRED TRfilMING Filed Oct. 17, 1939 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 l mg ifzw MM l/fzzid ATTORNEY.

March 31,1942. I c. SEAMAN SEWING MACHINE FOR MAKING PLEATED OR SHIRRED TRIMMING' Filed Oct. 17, 1939 6 Sheets-Sheet 3 0194/91. g5 SEAMAN a m a5 I I INVENTOR.

ATTORNEY.

March, 31, 1942. c. SEAMAN smwms mcnnm FOR MAKING PLEATED on snmmn "rammane Filed Oct. 17,, 1939 SShesUss-Sheet 4 INVENTOR.

. 04/01. 5.; 55A MAN m ATTORNEY.

March 31, 1942. c. SEAMAN 2,277,721

' SEWING MACHINE 'FOR MAKING PIIEATED OR SH'IRRED TRIMMING Filed 002.17, 1939 s Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR. CHARL 6 SEAMAN ArroRNEy.

March 31,1942. g AN- 2,277,721

SEWING MACHINE FOR MAKING PLEATED JR SHIRRED TRIMMING Filed Oct. 17, 1939 r 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 Y w "'15,- 2 124 r m 37 125 34 122 18 131 i ilaza INVENTOR.

Mam/14 4M BY 1 MTTORNEY.

Patented Mar. 31, 1942 SEWING MACHINE FOR MAKING PLAITED OR SHIRRED TRIMlVIING Charles Seaman, Jamaica Estates, N. Y. Application October 17, 1939, Serial No. 299,813 19 Claims. (01. 112-134) This invention relates to sewing machines and to attachments therefor, and more particularly to a device for making a plaited or shirred trimming and attaching the same to a fabric.

An object of the invention is to provide a device of the type above indicated having novel and. improved means for adjusting and regulating the characteristics of the plaits.

Another object is to provide a device of the above type which may be readily attached to a standard sewing machine.

Another object is to provide a plaiting device for making and attaching a plaited trimming between upper and lower layers of fabric.

Another object is to provide a simple, dependable and commercially practical device of the type above indicated.

Various other objects and advantages will become apparent as the nature of the invention is more fully disclosed.

Although the novel features which are believed to be characteristic of this invention are pointed out more particularly in the claims appended hereto, the invention itself may be better understood by referring to the following description, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which a specific embodiment thereof has been set forth for purposes of illustration.

In the drawings,

Figure 1 is a top plan view of a sewing machine embodying the present invention;

Figure 2 is a front elevation thereof;

Figure 3 is an end elevation taken from the right as viewed in Figures 1 and 2;

Figure 4'is an end elevation'taken from the left as viewed in Figures 1 and 2;

Figure 5 is a horizontal section taken on the line 5-5 of Figure 4;

Figure 6 is a horizontal section taken on the line 6-6 of Figure 4;

Figure '7 is a side elevation of the plaiting mechanism taken from the right as viewed in Figures 1 and 2;

Figure 8 is a plan view of one type of plaiting which may be made on the machine shown in Figures 1 to 7, showing the plaiting asit comes from the machine;

Figure 9 is a section taken on the line 9--9 of Figure 8;

Figure 10 is a plan View similar to Figure 8 showing the finished product after the fabric has been turned back to conceal the stitches and to expose the plaiting;

Figure 11 is a section taken on of Figure 10;

the line H--Il Figure 12 is a view similar to Figure 8 showing a different type of product as it comes from the machine;

- Figure 13 is a section taken on the line 13-13 of FigurelZ;

Figure 14 is a plan view of the finished product of Figure 12, with the layers of fabric folded back to conceal the stitches and to expose the plaiting;

Figure 15 is a section taken on the line l5|5 of Figure 14;

Figure 16 is a top plan View of a sewing machine head illustrating a different embodiment of the invention;

Figure 17 is a side elevation thereof;

v Figure 18 is an enlarged detail view showing the plaiting or shirring mechanism of Figures 16 and 1'7;

Figure 19 is a perspective view showing the path of the fabric and plaiting material through the machine;

Figure 20 is a plan view of the product made by the machine of Figures 16 to 18;

Figure 21 is a section-taken on the line of Figure 20;

Figure 22 is an enlarged detail view illustrating an embodiment of the invention as applied to a two-needle sewing machine;

Figure 23 is a similar view taken at right angles to Figure 22;

Figure 24 is a plan view showing the product made by the machine of Figures 22 and 23; and

Figure 25 is a section taken on the line 2525 of Figure 24.

In the drawings, the invention is shown as applied to a sewing machine having a, base l6 and a head ll carrying a needlerbar I2 and a presser foot bar l3, provided with a needle l4 and a presser foot l5, respectively. The needle bar I2 is driven by suitable means, such as a drive shaft 20, having a driving pulley 2| associated therewith. Feed dogs l6 feed the material or materials to the needle l4 'for stitching. It is to be understood that the sewing machine head and associated mechanism are of standard construction, and only somuch thereof has been set forth herein as is necessary to an understanding of this invention.

The plaiting mechanism, in accordance with the present invention, comprises a frame 22 (Figures 1 to 3) in which is journaled a rotating shaft 23 carrying a worm gear 24. The frame 22 is provided with a bracket 25 which is attached to the sewing machine head by suitable means, shown as screws 26. The frame is so mounted by means of the screws 26 that the worm gear 24 meshes with a gear 27 which is attached to the drive shaft 29. To the lower end of the rotating shaft 23 is attached a cam disc 33 having a cam surface 3| engaged by a roller 32 carried on an arm 33. The arm 33 is attached to a rock shaft 34 which is journalecl in a sleeve 35. The sleeve 35 is mounted in an arm 36 which is formed as a part of the bracket 25. The rock shaft 34 extends across the rear of the sewing machine head and carries a lever 37 which lifts the plaiting blade, in the manner to be described. The rock shaft 34 is held against axial movement in one direction by a collar 38. Its movement in its other direction is limited by a stop 39 which is attached to the rock shaft and carries a spring 48 frictionally engaging a pin 4| mounted on the sleeve 35. The spring 43 provides friction to hold the rock shaft in any selected axial position. With the rock shaft in its left-hand position, as shown in Figure 1, the roller 32 is in engagement with the cam surface 3i, and thereby causes the lever 37 to oscillate when the machine is operated. With the rock shaft 33 shifted to its right-hand position, however, the roller 32 is brought out of engagement with the cam surface 3|, thereby operatively disconnecting the lever 37 to permit the machine to be used for the usual stitching.

As shown more in detail in Figures 4-7 inclusive, a block 45 is attached to the presser foot bar l3 by set screws 45. This block 45 carries a slide 47 which is movable transversely in a slot 48 therein. The slide 47 carries a threaded extension 49 with which a knurled adjusting nut 50 cooperates. The slide may be held in adjust: ed position by means of a set screw 5i threaded into said slide and extending through an elongated slot 52 in said block (Figure 7) The slide 47 carries a rock cam 55 which is pivoted thereto by a screw 56. The rock cam 55 is provided with a cam slot 57 in which a cam block 53 travels. The cam block is pivoted by a screw 59 to the needle bar [2 and carries a head 60 for holding the same in position in the slot 57. The cam slot 57 is of such a shape that vertical movement of the needle bar causes the rock cam 55 to oscillate about its pivot point 55.

The rock cam 55 carries a block in which a bar 66 is slidably mount-ed and is adjustably held by a set screw 67 engaging said block and passing through an elongated slot 58 in said bar (Figure 7). The bar 65 carries a pin 53 (Figure 5) on which a plaiting blade 70 is pivotally mounted.

A spring 7! normally holds the blade 76 in contact with the goods, as will be described. The blade 70, as shown in Figure 6, is provided with serrations 72 at its lower end and with a slot 73 registering with the needle [4 so as to provide clearance for the needle as the blade is reciprocated by the rocking of the rock cam 55. A pin 75 is attached to the blade 70 and extends transversely to be engaged by the lever 37.

A plate 86' is attached to the base [3 by means of a set screw 8| (Figure 5). This plate is provided with a pair of guide fingers 32 and 83 (Figures 4 and 5). The guide finger 82 extends over the path of the material to be stitched and under the serrated end of the blade 73, but is raised from the base H] to permit a layer of fabric 84 to be fed thereunder. The finger 83 is spaced from the finger 82 to provide clearance for the passage of the plaiting material 85, which extends beneath the finger 83 and above the finger 82. The presser foot I5 is provided with a guide finger 33 which extends upwardly from the front thereof so that a layer of fabric 37 may be guided between said finger 86 and the blade 70.

In the operation of this device, the block 45 is attached to the presser foot bar I3, and the slide 47 and the bar 66 are adjusted to cause the desired reciprocating movement to be imparted to the blade 70. As the machine is now operated, the needle bar l2 causes the cam block 58 to reciprocate in the cam slot 57, thereby rocking the rock cam 55 about the pivot point 53 and causing the blade 70 to reciprocate over the finger 82. The adjustment should be such that the blade 73 approaches the toe of the presser foot l5 but does not quite contact the same.

For plaiting, the cam 30 may be adjusted to cause the lever 37 to release the blade 73 during one complete stroke thereof and to then hold the blade out of contact with the goods during one or more strokes, the length of the stroke of the blade 73 determining the width of the plaits. The length of time that the blade is held out of contact with the goods determines the spacing between plaits.

For shirring, the blade 73 may be adjusted to have a comparatively small throw and may be allowed to engage the goods during a plurality of successive strokes. If, in addition, the blade is held out of contact with the goods at intervals by the lever 37, spaced shirring efiects can be obtained.

It is to be understood, of course, that while the blade 78 is held out of contact with the goods by the lever 37, the blade oscillates due to the operation of the rock cam. This oscillation of the blade, however, will have no effect on the goods during the time it is held out of contact therewith. Consequently, by suitable adjustment of the length of the stroke and of the timing of the lever 37, various plaiting and shirring effects can be obtained.

In accordance with one embodiment of this invention, a plaiting material is fed to the path of the needle beneath the finger 83 and above the finger 82, and the fabric to which the plaiting is to be attached is fed to the needle beneath the finger 82. The operation of the blade 70 accordingly forms plaits in the plaiting material 85 as it is attached to the fabric, the material emerging from the machine stitched as shown in Figures 8 and 9. When the fabric 84 is folded back, as shown in Figures 10 and 11, the stitching is concealed and the plaiting projects beyond the edge of the fabric to form a trimming.

In another embodiment of the invention, the plaiting and the fabric '84 are fed to the path of the needle asabove described. An additional layer of fabric 87 is also fed to the path of the needle between the finger 86 and the blade 70. The material 85 is plaited and sewed in the manner above described and extends between the upper and lower layers of fabric 84 and 87, as shown in Figures 12 and 13. The layers of fabric may then be folded back to concealthe stitching, as shown in Figures 14 and 15. The product thus formed comprises a plaiting which is stitched between two layers of fabric with a concealed stitch and which extends as a trimming beyond the ends of said fabric.

While Figures 8 to 15 inclusive show the formation of plaiting, it is to be understood that shirring may be produced in a similar way by suitably adjusting the throw of the blade 75 and timing of the lever 37.

When the machine is to be used for normal stitching, the block 45 and the associated elements are removed from the presser foot bar and the rock shaft 34 is shifted to the right, as viewed in Figure 1, so as to bring the roller 32 out of contact with the cam 30 and thereby prevent actuation of the lever 31. It is accordingly, not necessary to remove the lever 31 and the associated mechanism from the machine.

It is to be understood that the adjustment of the timing of the lever 31 may be made by changing the cam 30, and that adjustment of the throw of the blade 10 may be made by varying the position of the slide 41 and of the bar 66.

In the embodiment of the invention shown in Figures 16 to 19, parts similar to those above described have been given corresponding reference numerals. This embodiment provides, in addition to the cam-operated lever 31, a manually operated lever 90 which is adapted to engage the pin 15 for lifting the blade 10 out of contact with the fabric, so as to permit the machine to be used for normal sewing operations when desired. This lever 90 also permits intermittent or spaced tucking or plaiting to be made at the will of the operator.

In accordance with this embodiment, the lever 30 is pivoted at 9| to a block 92 which corresponds to the block 45 of Figures 1 to '1. The block 92 is provided with an upstanding ear 93 which may be attached to the sewing machine head II by means of screws 94. The block 92 is formed with a suitable recess to provide clearance for the presser foot bar. This construction differs from that previously described in that the mechanism is attached by means of the block 92 directly to the sewing machine head instead of to the presser foot bar. This method of attachment is desirable in certain instances inasmuch as it provides a rigid support and does not interfere with the operation of the presser foot. It is to be understood that this type of support may be used for the mechanism described in Figures 1 to '1 if desired.

In the embodiment of the invention shown in Figures 16 to 18, the lever 90 is connected by means of a wire 95 to one end 96 of a lever 91 which is pivoted, as at 98, to the sewing machine head and is actuated by a rod 99 which passes beneath the base I and is provided with a suitable knee or foot control mechanism of the type well known in the art. The lever 91 and the manually controlled mechanism are of the type commonly used to permit manual actuation of the presser foot bar of the sewing machine. In

this embodiment, the only addition to a standard machine constitutes the wire 95 which is connected between the lever 91 and the lever 90.

The mechanism thus far described permits the sewing machine to be used for intermittent plaiting or shirring which is under the manual control of the operator. When the lever 91 is actuated, the blade 10 is lifted out of contact with the material and thereby interrupts the plaiting or shirring operation. When the lever 91 is released, the blade 10 again contacts the material and causes the plaiting or shirring to be resumed. It is to be understood, of course, that this manually controlled mechanism may be applied to the embodiment of the invention shown in Figures 1 to '1, if desired. Figures 16 to 18 also show a folder I05 mounted on a plate I06 which may be adjustably attached to the base III by suitable means, such as a screw I01, passing through an elongated slot I08 in said plate I06. The folder I05 is adapted to fold a strip of edging material III] into a substantial U shape, as shown in Figure 19, with the raw edges III of the material folded in between the outer sides II2. A strip of plaiting or shirring material I I3 is fed to the needle in a position such that its edge extends between the sides of the folded edging material to which it is secured by means of a stitch I I4. The blade 10 is adapted to engage the material II3 so as to form folds or plaits therein in the manner above described. The finished product is illustrated in Figures 20 and 21 and it is to be understood that the plaiting or shirring may be either continuous or intermittent at the will of the operator.

A further embodiment of the invention is shown in Figures 22 and 23, wherein the invention is applied to a two-needle sewing machine, the parts corresponding to those of Figures 1 to 7 being designated by similar reference numerals. In this embodiment, the needle bar I20 carries a pair of needles I2I. The presser foot I22 is attached to the presser foot bar in the usual manner and is provided with a folder I24 which is adapted to fold under the opposite edges of a facing I25 so as to form a two-ply facing consisting of an outer layer I26 and an under layer I21 in which the raw edges are abutting. The facing I25 is fed to the folder I24 in a position such that it passes beneath the two needles, to be secured to the fabric by rows of stitches adjacent the two side edges thereof. The tucking material may be fed to the needle above the guide plate I28. A layer of fabric I29 may be fed to the needle beneath the guide plate I28 and may have its edge pre-folded to form a two-ply hem, as shown in Figure 24. The hem I33 is passed to theneedles I2I in a position such that the two rows of stitches I3I extend along the opposite side edges thereof. .The finished product is in the form shown in Figures 24 and 25, with the inner edge of the tucking or plaiting stitched between the hem I30 and the folded facing I25 and with its outer edge extending therebeyond to provide a trimming.

It is to be understood, of course, that the facing may be varied as described and may be folded into a plurality of layers or, if a narrow facing is used, the folding may be omitted. Likewise, the hem I30 may comprise a plurality of layers or may be omitted in accordance with the effect desired. This embodiment also may comprise either plaiting or shirring which may be either continuous or intermittent.

The term plaits or equivalent terminology is used herein to designate plaits or shirring, or both.

While certain specific embodiments of the invention have been shown for purposes of illustration, it is to be understood that the invention is not to be limited thereto but that various changes may be made therein as will be readily apparent to a person skilled in the art. Certain specific terms have been used herein for convenience in referring to various details of the invention. The invention, however, is not to be limited thereby but is only to be limited in accordance with the scope of the following claims.

I claim:

1. In a sewing machine having a reciprocating needle, means feeding material thereto for stitching, a blade mounted for reciprocating movement to advance said material to said needle in folds, means operatively connected to the needle bar for actuating said blade in synchronism with the movement of said needle, and means acting in synchronism with the movement of said blade for alternately holding said blade out of feeding contact with the material and then releasing said blade for advancing said material during a predetermined sequence of strokes whereby spaced plaiting or shirring is produced.

2. In a sewing machine having a reciprocating needle bar adapted to carry a needle, means feeding material to said needle for stitching, driving means for said bar, a blade mounted for reciproeating movement to advance said material to said needle in folds, means associated with said needle bar for actuating said blade, and means actuated by said driving means for periodically lifting and holding said blade in inoperative position duringa predetermined number of strokes to provide spacing between plaits.

3. In a sewing machine having a reciprocating needle bar adapted to carry a needle, means feeding material to said needle for stitching, a rock cam pivoted for oscillating movement in the direction of feed of said material, cam means carried by said needle bar for actuating said rock cam in synchronism with the movement of said needle bar, a blade carried by said rock cam having an edge adapted to engage the material to advance the same to said needle in folds, and means acting in synchronism with the movement of said needle bar for periodically holding said blade out of contact with said material during a predetermined number of strokes of said blade whereby spaced plaiting or shirring is produced.

4. In a sewing machine having a reciprocating needle bar adapted to carry a needle, means feeding material to said needle for stitching, a rock cam pivoted for oscillating movement in the direction of feed of said material, cam means carried by said needle bar for actuating said rock cam in synchronism with the movement of said needle bar, a blade carried by said rock cam having an edge adapted to engage the material to advance the sameto said needle in folds, driving means for said needle bar, a lever connected to elevate said blade from contact with the material, and cam means driven by said driving means and actuating said lever, said cam means being adapted to alternately release and elevate said lever during a predetermined sequence of strokes thereof whereby spaced plaiting or shirring is produced.

5. In a sewing machine having a reciprocating needle bar adapted to carry a needle, means feeding material to said needle for stitching, a rock cam pivoted for oscillating movement in the direction of feed of said material, cam means carried by said needle bar for actuating saidrock cam in synchronism with the movement of said needle bar, a blade carried by said rock cam having an edge adapted to engage the material to advance the same to said needle in folds, driving means for said needle bar, a lever connected to elevate said blade from contact with the material, cam means driven by said driving means and actuating said lever, said cam means being adapted to alternately release and elevate said lever during a predetermined sequence of strokes thereof, means adjusting the throw of said blade for varying the width of the plaits, and means adjusting the timing of said lever for varying the spacing between plaits.

6. In a sewing machine having a reciprocating needle bar adapted to carry a needle, means feeding material thereto for stitching, a plaiting blade mounted for reciprocating movement to advance said material to said needle in folds adapted to form plaits, means operatively connected to the needle bar for actuating said plaiting blade in synchronism with the movement of said needle, means adjusting the throw of said blade for varying the width of the plaits produced thereby, and means holding said blade out of advancing contact with said material for a predetermined period of time after each material-advancing stroke to provide spacing between plaits.

7. An attachment for a sewing machine having a reciprocating needle bar, said attachment comprising a blade, means pivotally mounting said blade, means adapted to be actuated by said needle bar for oscillating said blade about its pivot to cause said blade to advance material in folds for stitching, and means to periodically elevate said blade from material-advancing position to provide spacing between plaits.

8. An attachment for a sewing machine having a needle bar and a presser foot bar, said attachment comprising a member to be attached to said presser foot bar, a blade pivotally attached thereto, means to be attached to said needle bar for actuating said blade in synchronism with said needle bar to cause said blade to advance material in folds for stitching, and means to periodically elevate said blade from material-advancing position to provide spacing between plaits.

9. An attachment for a sewing machine having a needle bar, driving means therefor and a presser foot bar, said attachment comprising a member to be attached to said presser foot bar, a rock cam member pivotally carried thereby, cam means to be attached to said needle bar for actuating said rock cam member, a blade associated with said rock cam member to be reciprocated for advancing material in folds for stitching, a pin attached to said blade, and means adapted to be actuated by said driving means to periodically elevate said pin and hold said blade in inoperative position for a predetermined number of strokes.

10. An attachment for a sewing machine having a needle bar and a presser foot bar, said attachment comprising a member to be attached to said presser foot bar, a rock cam member pivotally carried thereby, cam means to be attached to said needle bar for actuating said rock cam member, a blade associated with said rock cam member to be reciprocated for advancing material in folds for stitching, and means to periodically elevate said blade from material-feeding position to provide spacing between plaits.

11. An attachment for a sewing machine having a needle bar and driving means for said needle bar, said attachment comprising a memher to be attached to said machine, a rock cam member pivotally carried thereby, cam means to be attached to said needle bar for actuating said rock cam member, a transverse arm adjustably mounted on said rock cam member, a blade pivotally mounted on said arm to be reciprocated for advancing material in folds for stitching, a pin attached to said blade, and means adapted to be actuated by said driving means to periodically elevate said pin and hold said blade in inoperative position for a predetermined number of strokes.

12. An attachment for a sewing machine having a needle bar, said attachment comprising a member to be attached to said machine, a transverse bar slidably mounted on said member for transverse adjustment, a rock cam member pivoted to said bar, said rock cam member having a cam slot therein, cam means to be attached to said needle bar for movement in said cam slot to cause said rock cam member to rock about its pivot, a transverse arm adjustably mounted on said rock cam member, and a blade pivotally mounted on said arm to be reciprocated for advancing material in folds for stitching.

13. An attachment for a sewing machine having a reciprocating needle bar, said attachment comprising a blade, means pivotally mounting said blade, means adapted to be actuated by said needle bar for oscillating said blade about its pivot to cause said blade to advance material in folds for stitching, means to periodically elevate said blade from material-feeding position whereby spaced plaiting or shirring is produced, said last means comprising a lever adapted to elevate said blade, a rock shaft carrying said lever, cam means to oscillate said rock shaft, a bracket adapted to be attached to said machine carrying said rock shaft and said cam means, and means to connect said cam means to be driven by said machine.

14. An attachment for a sewing machine having stitching means and driving means therefor including a drive wheel, said attachment comprising a frame to be attached to said machine carrying a shaft having a drive gear and a cam disc, means connecting said drive gear to be driven by said drive wheel, a bracket attached to said frame, a rock shaft mounted in said bracket and extending across the back of said machine, a cam lever attached to said rock shaft and operatively engaging said cam disc, stop means to permit limited axial movement of said rock shaft for disconnecting said lever from said cam disc, spring means holding said rock shaft in selected position, and a lever carried by said rock shaft adapted to control the operation of said stitching means.

15. In a sewing machine having a reciprocating needle bar adapted to carry a needle, means feeding material to said needle for stitching, driving means for said needle bar, a blade mounted for reciprocating movement to advance said material to said needle in folds, means operatively connected to the needle bar for actuating said blade, a pin attached to said blade, and means actuated by said driving means to periodically engage said pin to hold said blade in inoperative position during a predetermined number of strokes whereby spaced plaiting or shirring is produced.

16. In a sewing machine having a reciprocating needle bar adapted to carry a needle, means feeding material to said needle for stitching, driving means for said needle bar, a blade mounted for reciprocating movement to advance said material to said needle in folds, means operatively connected to the needle bar for actuating said blade, a pin attached to said blade, means actuated by said driving means to periodically engage said pin to hold said blade in inoperative position during a predetermined number of strokes whereby spaced plaiting or shirring is produced, and a lever connected to lift said blade out of contact with said material to permit normal stitching.

17. In a sewing machine having a reciprocating needle bar adapted to carry a needle, means feeding material to said needle for stitching, driving means for said needle bar, a blade mounted for reciprocating movement to advance said material to said needle in folds, means operatively connected to the needle bar for actuating said blade, a pin attached to said blade, means actuated by said driving means to periodically engage said pin to hold said blade in inoperative position during a predetermined number of strokes whereby spaced plaiting or shirring is produced, a lever connected to lift said blade out of contact with said material to permit normal stitching, and means mounted to be operated by the foot or knee of the operator to actuate said lever.

18. In a sewing machine having a reciprocating needle bar adapted to carry a needle, means feeding material to said needle for stitching, a rock cam pivoted for oscillating movement in the direction of feed of said material, cam means carried by said needle bar for actuating said rock cam in synchronism with the movement of said needle bar, a blade carried by said rock cam having an edge adapted to engage the material to advance the same to said needle in folds, driving means for said needle bar, a lever connected to elevate said blade from contact with the material, cam means driven by said driving means and actuating said lever, said cam means being adapted to alternately release and elevate said lever during a predetermined sequence of strokes thereof-whereby spaced plaiting or shirring is produced, and a second lever connected to lift said blade out of contact with said material to permit normal stitching.

19. In a sewing machine having a reciprocating needle bar adapted to carry a needle, means feeding material to said needle for stitching, a rock cam pivoted for oscillating movement in the direction of feed of said material, cam means carried by said needle bar for actuating said rock cam in synchronism with the movement of said needle bar, a blade carried by said rock cam having an edge adapted to engage the material to advance the same to said needle in folds, driving means for said needle bar, a lever connected to elevate said blade from contact with the material, cam means driven by said driving means and actuating said lever, said cam means being adapted to alternately release and elevate said lever. during a predetermined sequence of strokes thereof whereby spaced plaiting or shirring is produced, a second lever connected to lift said blade out of contact with said material to permit normal stitching, and means mounted to be operated by the foot or knee of the operator to actuate said second lever.

1 CHARLES SEAMAN.

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