US1762479A - Festoon-sewing machine - Google Patents

Festoon-sewing machine Download PDF

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US1762479A
US1762479A US137046A US13704626A US1762479A US 1762479 A US1762479 A US 1762479A US 137046 A US137046 A US 137046A US 13704626 A US13704626 A US 13704626A US 1762479 A US1762479 A US 1762479A
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thread
shaft
cutting
looper
fabric
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US137046A
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Maier Karl
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Union Special GmbH
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Union Special GmbH
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05CEMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05C7/00Special-purpose or automatic embroidering machines
    • D05C7/06Special-purpose or automatic embroidering machines for embroidering festoons

Definitions

  • MAIER FESTOON SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 22, 1926 Sheets-Sheet l-16 llllm fi r WW C Filed Sept. 22, 1926 14 Sheets-Sheet 2 Jam W, 1930, Y K.
  • the invention relates to new and useful improvements in afestoon sewing machine
  • An object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine of the above character wherein the fabric is trimmed so as to form a scalloped edge, and the edge is covered with interlooped stitching threads as it is cut.
  • a further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type wherein the fabric is fed in a straight line during the trimming of the fabric to form the scallops and during the covering of the cut edge with the interlooped stitching threads.
  • a further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above character wherein the cutting devices are moved laterally of the feed by means which is independent of the means which gives the stitching mechanism alateral movement relative to the feed,
  • a still further object of the invention is to provide a cutting device for scalloping theedge of the material which is so arranged that it may be rotated about its axis, as well as moved laterally of the line of feed, and thus the cutting member set for the cutting of the desired pattern.
  • a further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type wherein the controlling devices for the cutter are so arranged that the knife after its last cut on one scallop may be quickly brought back to a position to begin the following scallop.
  • Fig. 2 is aperspective view of the machine from in front and above, with the seam formation in the machine beneath the presser foot'
  • Fig. 3 is a view partly infront elevation and partly in vertical section, showing particularly the upper and lower driving shafts and the means for operating the same;
  • Fig. 4 is a horizontal section on the line A-A of Fig. 3; with parts broken away to show the means for operating the pattern cams from the driving shaft;
  • Fig. 5 is a horizontal sectional view on the l ne B-B of Fig. 3, and showing in broken lines the cover plate used in connection with the bed plate, as moved away from its normal position;
  • Fig. 6 is a vertical section on the line C-C of Fig. 3;
  • Fig. 7 is a vertical section on the line DD of Fig. 3, and showing in particular the cam drive with the two cams in side elevation;
  • FIG. 8 is a vertical section on the line E-E of Figures 3 and 4:, and showing in particular the pattern cams in section;
  • Fig. 8' is a plan view of one of the disks containing the pattern cams, the under cam only being shown in dotted lines;
  • Fig, 9 1s a vertical sectional view on the line F.F of Figures 3 and 4:;
  • Fig. 10 is a perspective view of the driving elements in the frame and bearings f6r the upper and lower sewing elements;
  • FIGS 11, 12 and 13 are details of the loopretainer operating means
  • Fig. 14 is a perspective view of the driving elements without the frame and bearings for the upper and lower cutting devices
  • Fig. 15 is a vertical sectional view showing the driving link connection for imparting vertical movement to the cutting blade;
  • Fig. 16 is a horizontal sectional view showing the same
  • Fig. 17 is a vertical sectional view showing the lower or stationary knife and the means for rotating the same;
  • Fig. 18 is a plan view of the same
  • Fig. 19 is a vertical sectional view through the presser foot and the feed dog and showing the upper and lower cutting elements
  • Fig. 20 is a view partly in section and partly'. in plan of the parts shown in Fig. 19, also showing the fabric and the manner of cutting and attaching the same;
  • Fig. 21 is a diagrammatic view showing the fabric being trimmed with the knife at its extreme distance from the line of feed;
  • Fig. 22 is a similar view showing the trimmed edge as covered with the knife at its nearest point to the line of feed and in the thread loops in the covering of the under edge of the fabric;
  • Fig. 46 is a view of the under side of the stitch
  • Fig. 47 is a perspective view of the interlooped threads which cover the edge of the material
  • Figures 48 to 50 show in.t0p plan view the looper thread controller with the looper in various positions of its movements
  • Fig. 51 is a view in side elevation of the means for operating the thread hook'for forming the looper in the upper cross thread
  • Fig. 52 is a plan view of the same.
  • the machine in which the invention is embodied consists of a frame 1 which includes a supporting base a, a standard I) and an overhanging-arm c. Mounted on the base a is a cloth plate (Z. At the outer end of the overhanging arm 0 is a needle head. These parts are of the usual construction. Mounted on the supporting base a is a main shaft 2 which carries a belt wheel 3. Mounted in the overhanging arm and extending through the standard 5 is an upper shaft 4:. The shafts 2 and i are provided with a series of cranks 5, and links 6 connecting said cranks impart positive rotation to the upper shaft from the lower shaft.
  • a needle bar 11 carrying, in the present embodiment of the invention, two needles 66, 66.
  • a thread carrying looper 21 Cooperating with these needles 66, 66 beneath the cloth plate, is a thread carrying looper 21.
  • a loop retainer 41 Cooperating with this thread carrying looper 21 is a loop retainer 41.
  • Cooperating with the needles above the cloth plate is a thread hook 12, and associated with this thread hook 12-is a fixed thread guide 18
  • the machine is provided with a cutting blade 48, which is mounted so as to move up and down relative to the cloth plate.
  • Cooper- .ating with this movable blade 48 is a stationary cutting blade 106.
  • the needle bar 11 is reciprocated from the shaft 4- by means of a head 7 fixed to the shaft in which is mounted a vstud 8.
  • Attached to the stud 8 is a link 9 which. carries a sleeve adapted to engage a stud 8 attached in turn to a rectangular sleeve 10 fixed to the needle bar 11.
  • the stud 8 can move in the sleeve of the link 9, and this provides an arrangement whereby the needle bar 'may be shifted laterally without disturbing its operating connection with the shaft 4.
  • the thread laying device 12 is oscillated through the up and down movements of the needle bar 11, and this is accomplished by providing the rectangular sleeve 10 with an obliquely toothed rack 13, which engages the toothed segment 14 securedto the shaft 15.
  • the thread hook 12 is fixed to a bracket arm 16, which is secured to the lower end of the fixed to the shaft 15, and the arm 16 carrying the thread hook is fixed to said shaft, the
  • thread hook will be oscillated by the vertical reciprocations of the needle bar.
  • a thread guiding arm 18 carried by the-block 18 which .is secured to and is a part of the arm 18 which is rigidly attached to the bearing sleeve for the shaft 15.
  • the thread guide 17? for the cross thread is attached. to an arm 17 which in turn is rigidly attached to the bearing sleeve for the shaft 15.
  • the feed dog 27 is carried by the feed bar 30 which is pivoted at its rear end to the feed rocker 29.
  • This feed rocker carries the long arm 28 to which an eccentric strap is at tached, which strap cooperates with an eccentric 26 on the main shaft 2. As the main shaft rotates, it will rock the feed rocker, and this will move the feed bar back and forth.
  • the feed bar is raised and lowered by an ecmovement in the following manner.
  • looper carrier is pivoted to a looper support by a pivot bolt 37.
  • the looper support 38 carries a bifurcated arm 39 which cooperates with an eccentric 40 on the main shaft 2.
  • the loop retainer 41 is given a movement lengthwise of the looper, and across the looper.
  • This loop retainer 41 is carried by a 11, .which straddles a pin 45 mounted in a head attached to the outer end of the shaft 45.
  • the pin 45 is slabbed intermediate its ends so that the forked arm of the rock lever straddles the same.
  • the loop retainer is moved laterally of the looper by an eccentric'47 which cooperates with a bifurcated arm 46 attached to the shaft 45.
  • the thread retainer is so timed relative to the looper, that when the looper starts on its forward movement to enter the two needle 20 thread loops one after another, the retainer is retracted and backed out of the way of the movement of the looper.
  • retainer is indicated in Figures 26 and 29,. and in Fig. 26, I have also shown the path of movement of the looper. As the looper approaches the forward end of its stroke, the loop retainer moves across the path of the looper and is retracted so as to engage the needle thread loops on the looper, as shown in Figures 33 and 34.
  • the thread retainer passes underneath the looper thread and holds the two thread loops back on the looper, so that the needles when they descend, will pass with certainty into the thread triangle bounded by the looper'thread extending from the eye of the looper to the previous stitch, the body of the looper and the needle thread loops on the looper, and also extending to the previous stitch. Both needles enter the same thread triangle. Attention is called to the fact that the needle thread loops are locked by the looper thread loop, and thus it is that there is an interengagement'of the thread loops which makes a stitch which is more or less elastic and one in which the threads are not liable to break if the edge which is covered by the threads is put under a strain.
  • the upper trimmer blade 48 is moved up. and down by a connection with an eccentric 45) on the upper shaft 4 of the machine.
  • an eccentric strap 50 which is connccted'to a ball stud 64 adjustably mounted in the slot 63 of an arm 51, and the arm 51 is attached to the shaft 52.
  • the eccentric strap through the connection stated, oscillates the shaft 52.
  • the shaft 52 is journaled in a bearing bracket member 53 in which the shaft 54 is mounted.
  • This shaft 54 carries an arm 126 at its lower end, and a cutting knife 48 is clamped to ahead 1 at the lower end of said arm 126.
  • At the outer end of the shaft 52 there is a lever 55.
  • the shaft 54 is a collar 56 which carries a pin 57.
  • This collar is free on the shaft 54.
  • On the pin 57 is avsleeve Gigs-provided with a spherical enlargement 62.
  • the lever 55 engages this spherical enlargement. Vhen the shaft 52 is oscillated, it will, through the lever 55, reciprocate the shaft 54 carrying the cutting blade 48.
  • On the other side of the bracket bearing member 53 is a collar 58 which is attached to the shaft 52, which prevents any endwise movement of the rock shaft 52 in said bearing 53.
  • the shaft 54 carrying the cutting blade 48 is capable of limited rotation for properly positioning the knife for the cutting of the scallop in the fabric being stitched.
  • This shaft 54 is oscillated by a gear wheel 59 which is fixed to the shaft.
  • a rack bar 113 carried by a rod 112 oscillates the shaft 54.
  • the ball stud 64 in the slot 63 By adjusting the ball stud 64 in the slot 63, the extent of reciprocation imparted to the knife 48 may be adjusted. This enables the knife to be properly rcciprocated for different thicknesses of fabric beingstitched.
  • Cooperating with the movable trimming blade 48 isafixedtrimming blade 106.
  • This fixed blade 106 is mounted on a segment 110 which is pivotally supported by a throat plate 67
  • the center of its pivotal support coincides with the axis of the shaft 54 carrying the uppercutting blade.
  • the segment 110 is oscillated by means of a rack 105.
  • the purpose of rotating the knives of the cutting mechanism is so that the knives may be properly positioned for following the curved edge of a scallop. This will be referred to further in connection with the means which controls the position of the knives.
  • the entire stitching mechanism and the trimming mechanism are mounted so that they may be shifted laterally relative to the line of feed, and this is for the purpose of forming the curved scallops, although the fabric is fed forward in a straight line.
  • the needle bar 11 and the shaft 15 carrying the thread hook are both mounted in a bracket 83, and this bracket 83 is supported by a rod 82 which is mounted to reciprocate in a direction parallel with the upper shaft 4, as clearly shown in Fig. 39f the drawings.
  • looper mechanism is mounted onva bearing block 75.
  • This bearing block 75 also carries a throat plate 67.
  • the looper retaining mechanism is likewise mounted on this bearing block 75, and the bearing block 75 is capable of being shifted laterally, so as to prop erly position the looper to cooperate with the needles in their various shifted positions.
  • the stitching mechanism and the cutting mechanism are shifted laterally relative to the feed, and the cutting mechanism is rotated for changing its angular position by pattern cams shown in Figures 8, 9,10 and 14 of the drawings. The movements may be broken up into three distinct groups.
  • the pattern cams are formed in two disks 115 and 116, and these disks and the work wheel 117 are all fastened to a sleeve 118 journaled on a fixed shaft 119.
  • a worm 120 on the main shaft 2 meshes with the worm wheel and rotates the disks.
  • This cam groove controls the lateral position of the needles, the throat plate, the looper-and the upper cross thread laying hook.
  • a rock lever 69 Fastened to the lower end of the shaft 65 is a rock lever 69.
  • An arm 69 of said rock lever carries a roller 70 which runs in the camgroove 68.
  • the other arm 69 of this rock lever is connected at 71 to apush rod 72, and the push rod 72 is connected. at 73 to a ball stud 74 which is fastened to the looper bearing block 75.
  • this looper bearing block 7 5 carries the looper and the loop retainer and also the throat plate, so that when the block is shifted through the rotation of the cam 68, the looper, the retainer and the throat plate will all be shifted therewith.
  • an arm 76 On the upper end of the shaft 65there is an arm 76 which is connected to a thrust rod 77 (see Fig. 10).
  • the thrust rod 77 is connected to'the upper arm 78 by a bifurcated lever 78 which is free to rock upon its supporting shaft 79.
  • lower arm 78 of said bifurcated lever is conhanging arm as above referred to.
  • the supporting rod 82 does not interfere in any way with the reciprocations of the needle bar 11.
  • this supporting rod 82 is moved endwise, and with it, the supporting bracket in which the needle barreciprocates and in which the shaft 15 carrying the cross thread laying hook oscillates.
  • the cam 68 shifts step bystep the position of the stitching mechanism, that is, the needle, the looper and the cross thread laying mechanism, and also the throat plate. This step by step shifting of the stitching elements occurs when the needles are out of the material, and is the movement of the stitching mechanism relative to the material.
  • the material is-fed forward in a straight line and the stitching mechanism is gradually shifted in a direction at'right angles to the line of feed.
  • the upper cam groove 84 is for the purpose of shifting the cutting devices laterally relative to the line of feed.
  • Mounted on the shaft 65 is the inner-sleeve 101 and the outer sleeve 85. These sleeves are free to oscillate independent of each other, and independent of the shaft 65.
  • Mounted on the outer sleeve is a two-armed lever 86'.
  • arm 86 of this lever carries a roller 87 which runs in the camgroove 84.
  • the arm 86 of said lever is attached to a link 89 and this link 89 is in turn connected to a rock frame 91.
  • the rock frame 91 is connected toa link or thrust rod 90, which is provided with a head 92 attached to a pivot 93 carried by. a knife toa hall stud on a collar 98 which is fixed tothe rod 96.
  • This rod 96 is attached to the" bracket 53 in which the shaft 54 is mounted.
  • the intermediate sleeve shaft 101 carries a two-armedlever 100.
  • the lever arm 100 of the lever 100 is provided with a roller which engages the,
  • the other arm 100 of the lever 100 is connected to a link 104, and this link in turn is connected to the rack bar 105 which rotates the support for the lower cutting member 106.
  • Mounted on the link 104 is a fixed collar 109 and a fixed collar 109.
  • the rack bar 105 is provided with collars 108 and 108, which pass freely along the link 104.
  • a spring 107 encircles the link 104 and bears at one end against the collar 108, while its other end bears against the collar fixed to the link 104. There is suflicient room between the collars fixed to the link 104 and those movable thereon, that the spring 107 will continually urge the rack bar to the right as viewed in Fig. 14,
  • the knife 106 As the stationary knife, in view of the fact that it has no movement during the cutting of the fabric. It is, however, shiftable bodily and capable of being rotated as noted above.
  • a cover plate 111 attached to the support 88 for the lower knife which serves as a housing for the rack bar 105.
  • an arm 102 Also mounted on the central sleeve shaft 101 is an arm 102. Connected tothe arm 102 is a link 112, and this link 112 carries a rack bar 113 which engages a pinion 59 fixed tothe shaft 54 carrying the movable cutting blade 48.
  • the cutting of the edge of the fabric in scallops is accomplished by the lateral movements of the trimming knife, and the rotating movements of the trimming knife .is for the purpose of causing the cutting blades toface in the proper direction for outting the fabric.
  • the stitch forming mechanism is moved laterally so as to follow the out edge, and thus it is that the fabric is trimmed so as to provide a series of scallops, and simultaneously with the cutting of the fabric to form the scalloped edge, said edge is covered with interlocked thread loops.
  • the thread loops are all uniformly interlocked and therefore, the edge is very uniform when it is finished, and as above stated, it is more or less elastic, due to the fact that the coveringstitches are all interlocked loops. It will be understood, of course, that by changing the length of feed, the pattern of the scallops may be shortened or lengthened, and if the depth of the scallop is to be varied by changing the extent of lateral movement of the cutting devices and stitching elements, this is accomplished by changing the pattern cams.
  • the looper thread on its way to the looper passes through a thread controlling mechanism which 1s shown in detail in Fig. 10, and which is shown also in Figures 48 to 50, inclusive.
  • This thread controlling mechanism includes nipper springs 22 and 23 which are closed during the return movement of the looper 21 for clamping the looper thread.
  • the looper thread cam 24 engages the looper thread between the thread clamp and the looper, and associated with this cam 24 is the usual cast-off finger 25.
  • This mechanism is of the usual construction as noted above, and further description thereof is not thought necessary.
  • a stitch forming mechanism including cooperating elements forming edge covering stitches by enchaining thread loops, a cutting mechanism in advance of the stitching elements, means for feeding the fabric in a straight line, and means for shifting the stitching elements and the cut ting devices laterally of the line of feed for festooning the edge of the material, said cutting mechanism including means for shifting the position of the cutting devices angularly so as to follow the curved edge of the fabric as it is out.
  • a stitch forming mechanism including cooperating elements forming edge covering stitches by enchaining thread loops, a cutting mechanism in advance of the stitching elements, means for feeding the fabric in a straight line, and means for shifting the stitching elements and the cutting devices laterally of the line of feed for festooning the edge of the material, said cutting mechanism including means whereby the cuttingdevices may beturned so as to follow the curve of the festooned edge as the fabric is cut.
  • a stitch forming mechanism including cooperating elements forming edge covering stitches by enchaining thread loops, a cutting mechanism in advance of the stitching elements, means for feeding the fabric in a straight line, and means for shifting the stitching elements and the cutting devices at right angles to the line of feed for festooning the edge of the material, said means for shifting the stitching elements being operated independently of the means for shifting the cutting devices so that the stitching elements may be properly placed for covering the cut edge.
  • stitch forming mechanism including cooperating elements forming edge covering stitches by enchaining thread loops, a cutting mechanism in advance of the stitching elements including a reciprocating cutting blade and a. relatively stationary cutting blade, means for feeding the fabric in a straight line, means for bodily shifting the stitching elements in a direction at right angles to the line of feed, and independent means for shifting the cutting mechanism laterally in a, direction at right angles to the line of feed, said shiftin devices being so timed that the edge 0 the fabric is cut to form scallops and the cut edges covered by the stitching mechanism.
  • stitch forming mechanism including cooperating elements forming edge covering stitches by enchaining thread loops, a cutting mechanism in advance of the stitching elements including a reciprocating cutting blade and a relatively stationary cutting blade, means for feeding the fabric in a straight line, means for bodily shifting the stitching elements in a direction at right angles to the line of feed, said shifting devices being so timedthat the edge of the fabric is cut to form scallops and the cut edges covered by the stitching mechanism, said cutting mechanism including means whereby the cutting devices are shifted angularly so as, to follow the curved cutting edge of the fabric.
  • stitch forming mechanism including cooperating elements forming edge covering stitches by enchaining thread loops, a cutting mechanism in advance of the stitching elements including a reciprocating cutting blade and a relatively stationary cutting blade, means for feeding the fabric in a straight line, means for bodily shifting the stitching elements in a direction at right angles to the line of feed, said shifting devices being so timed that the edge of the fabric is cut to form scallops and the cut edges covered by the stitching mechanism, said means for shifting the cutting mechanism being independent of the means for shifting the stitching elements so that the stitching elements may be properly positioned for covering the cut edge.
  • stitch forming mechanism including cooperating elements forming edge covering stitches by enchaining thread loops, a cutting mechanism in advance of the stitching elements, a feeding amechanism for feeding the fabric in a straight line, means for shifting the cutting mecha- IllSIIl lIlCllldlllg' a pattern cam, devices controlled thereby for shifting-laterally of the line of feed, both the upper cutting device and the lower cutting device, and means for shiftin the stitch forming elements to cor respon with the lateral shift of the cutting mechanism so that a scalloped edge may be formed and covered with stitches.
  • stitch forming mechanism including cooperating elements forming edge covering stitches by enchaining thread loops, a cutting mechanism in advance of the stitching elements, a feeding mechanism for feeding the fabric in a straight line, means for shifting the cutting mechanism including a pattern cam, devices controlled thereby for shifting laterally the line of feed, both the upper cutting device and the lower cutting device, means for shifting

Description

Jumw W, 193% K. MAIER FESTOON SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 22, 1926 Sheets-Sheet l WWII llllm fi r WW C Filed Sept. 22, 1926 14 Sheets-Sheet 2 Jam W, 1930, Y K. MAIER 1,762,479
- FESTOON SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 22, 1926 14 SheetsSheet 3 June 10, 1930. K. MAIER FESTOON SEWING MACHINE l4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed Sept. 22, 1926 June 1@, 1930;
K. MAIER FESTOON S EWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 22, 1926 14 Sheets-Sheet 5 I o H13 June 10, 1936. K. MAIER L72A79 FESTOON SEWING MACHINE Fil ed Sept. 22, 1926 14 Sheets-Sheet 6 June 10, 1930. K. MAIER FESTOON SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 22, 1926 14 Sheets-Sheet June 10, 1930.
K. MAIER FESTOON SEWING MACHINE 14 Sheets-Sheet 8 Filed Sept. 22, 1926 a3 .w. gag Hui Q a X wi June 10, 1930. K. MAlER FESTOON SEWING MACHINE Fild Sept. 22, 1926 14 Sheets-Sheet 9 June 10, 1930. MAIER 1,762,479
FESTOON SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 22, 1926 14 Sheets$heet l0 June 10, 1930. MAIER 1,762,479
FESTOON SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 22, 1926 14 Sheets-Sheet 11 June '10, 1930.
K. MAlER 1,762,479
FESTOON SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept 22, 1926 14 Sheets-Sheet 12 June 10, 1930. K. MAIER FESTO-ON SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 22 1926 14 Sheets-Sheet l3 June 10, 1930. MAlER 1,762,479
FESTOON S EWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 22, 1926 14 Sheets-Sheet l4 Patented June 10, 1930 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE KARL MAIEB, OF STUTTGART, GERMANY, ASSIGNOR TO UNION SPECIAL MASCHINEN- FABRIK, GESELLSCHAFT MIT IBESCHRANKTER HAFTUNG, OF STUII'GAILT, GER- MANY FESTOON-SEWING MACHINE Application 11106. September 22, 1926, Serial No. 187,046, and in Germany October 21, 1925.
The invention relates to new and useful improvements in afestoon sewing machine,
' and moreparticularly to the mechanisms for providing the fabric edge and for covering the cut edge with stitching threads.
An object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine of the above character wherein the fabric is trimmed so as to form a scalloped edge, and the edge is covered with interlooped stitching threads as it is cut.
A further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type wherein the fabric is fed in a straight line during the trimming of the fabric to form the scallops and during the covering of the cut edge with the interlooped stitching threads.
A further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above character wherein the cutting devices are moved laterally of the feed by means which is independent of the means which gives the stitching mechanism alateral movement relative to the feed,
so that the seam line may be properly adjusted relative to the trimming line to secure a uniform coverin of the cut edge.
A still further object of the invention is to provide a cutting device for scalloping theedge of the material which is so arranged that it may be rotated about its axis, as well as moved laterally of the line of feed, and thus the cutting member set for the cutting of the desired pattern. 7
A further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above type wherein the controlling devices for the cutter are so arranged that the knife after its last cut on one scallop may be quickly brought back to a position to begin the following scallop.
These and other objects will in part be obvices and will in part be hereinafter-more fully disclosed.
In the drawin s- Figure 1 is a ront elevation of the sewing machine embodying the invention;
Fig. 2 is aperspective view of the machine from in front and above, with the seam formation in the machine beneath the presser foot' Fig. 3 is a view partly infront elevation and partly in vertical section, showing particularly the upper and lower driving shafts and the means for operating the same;
Fig. 4 is a horizontal section on the line A-A of Fig. 3; with parts broken away to show the means for operating the pattern cams from the driving shaft;
Fig. 5 is a horizontal sectional view on the l ne B-B of Fig. 3, and showing in broken lines the cover plate used in connection with the bed plate, as moved away from its normal position;
Fig. 6 is a vertical section on the line C-C of Fig. 3;
Fig. 7 is a vertical section on the line DD of Fig. 3, and showing in particular the cam drive with the two cams in side elevation;
- Fig. 8 is a vertical section on the line E-E of Figures 3 and 4:, and showing in particular the pattern cams in section;
Fig. 8' is a plan view of one of the disks containing the pattern cams, the under cam only being shown in dotted lines;
' Fig, 9 1s a vertical sectional view on the line F.F of Figures 3 and 4:;
Fig. 10 is a perspective view of the driving elements in the frame and bearings f6r the upper and lower sewing elements;
Figures 11, 12 and 13 are details of the loopretainer operating means;
Fig. 14 is a perspective view of the driving elements without the frame and bearings for the upper and lower cutting devices Fig. 15 is a vertical sectional view showing the driving link connection for imparting vertical movement to the cutting blade;
Fig. 16 is a horizontal sectional view showing the same;
Fig. 17 is a vertical sectional view showing the lower or stationary knife and the means for rotating the same;
Fig. 18 is a plan view of the same;
Fig. 19 is a vertical sectional view through the presser foot and the feed dog and showing the upper and lower cutting elements;
Fig. 20 is a view partly in section and partly'. in plan of the parts shown in Fig. 19, also showing the fabric and the manner of cutting and attaching the same;
Fig. 21 is a diagrammatic view showing the fabric being trimmed with the knife at its extreme distance from the line of feed;
Fig. 22 is a similar view showing the trimmed edge as covered with the knife at its nearest point to the line of feed and in the thread loops in the covering of the under edge of the fabric;
Fig. 46 is a view of the under side of the stitch;
Fig. 47 is a perspective view of the interlooped threads which cover the edge of the material;
Figures 48 to 50, inclusive, show in.t0p plan view the looper thread controller with the looper in various positions of its movements;
Fig. 51 is a view in side elevation of the means for operating the thread hook'for forming the looper in the upper cross thread,
and
Fig. 52 is a plan view of the same.
The machine in which the invention is embodied consists of a frame 1 which includes a supporting base a, a standard I) and an overhanging-arm c. Mounted on the base a is a cloth plate (Z. At the outer end of the overhanging arm 0 is a needle head. These parts are of the usual construction. Mounted on the supporting base a is a main shaft 2 which carries a belt wheel 3. Mounted in the overhanging arm and extending through the standard 5 is an upper shaft 4:. The shafts 2 and i are provided with a series of cranks 5, and links 6 connecting said cranks impart positive rotation to the upper shaft from the lower shaft. Mounted to reciprocate in the needle head (1 is a needle bar 11 carrying, in the present embodiment of the invention, two needles 66, 66. Cooperating with these needles 66, 66 beneath the cloth plate, is a thread carrying looper 21. Associated with this thread carrying looper 21 is a loop retainer 41. Cooperating with the needles above the cloth plate is a thread hook 12, and associated with this thread hook 12-is a fixed thread guide 18 In order that the material may be trimmed in advance of the stitching mechanism and prior to the covering of the edge thereof, the machine is provided with a cutting blade 48, which is mounted so as to move up and down relative to the cloth plate. Cooper- .ating with this movable blade 48 is a stationary cutting blade 106.
The needle bar 11 is reciprocated from the shaft 4- by means of a head 7 fixed to the shaft in which is mounted a vstud 8. Attached to the stud 8 is a link 9 which. carries a sleeve adapted to engage a stud 8 attached in turn to a rectangular sleeve 10 fixed to the needle bar 11. The stud 8 can move in the sleeve of the link 9, and this provides an arrangement whereby the needle bar 'may be shifted laterally without disturbing its operating connection with the shaft 4.
The thread laying device 12 is oscillated through the up and down movements of the needle bar 11, and this is accomplished by providing the rectangular sleeve 10 with an obliquely toothed rack 13, which engages the toothed segment 14 securedto the shaft 15. The thread hook 12 is fixed to a bracket arm 16, which is secured to the lower end of the fixed to the shaft 15, and the arm 16 carrying the thread hook is fixed to said shaft, the
thread hook will be oscillated by the vertical reciprocations of the needle bar. Associated with this thread hook is a thread guiding arm 18 carried by the-block 18 which .is secured to and is a part of the arm 18 which is rigidly attached to the bearing sleeve for the shaft 15. The thread guide 17? for the cross thread is attached. to an arm 17 which in turn is rigidly attached to the bearing sleeve for the shaft 15. These thread guides 1'?" and 18 are stationary, but they are adjustable relative to each other and to the thread hook.
The feed dog 27 is carried by the feed bar 30 which is pivoted at its rear end to the feed rocker 29. This feed rocker carries the long arm 28 to which an eccentric strap is at tached, which strap cooperates with an eccentric 26 on the main shaft 2. As the main shaft rotates, it will rock the feed rocker, and this will move the feed bar back and forth.
The feed bar is raised and lowered by an ecmovement in the following manner. The
looper carrier is pivoted to a looper support by a pivot bolt 37. The looper support 38 carries a bifurcated arm 39 which cooperates with an eccentric 40 on the main shaft 2.
The loop retainer 41 is given a movement lengthwise of the looper, and across the looper. This loop retainer 41 is carried by a 11, .which straddles a pin 45 mounted in a head attached to the outer end of the shaft 45. The pin 45 is slabbed intermediate its ends so that the forked arm of the rock lever straddles the same.
The loop retainer is moved laterally of the looper by an eccentric'47 which cooperates with a bifurcated arm 46 attached to the shaft 45. The thread retainer is so timed relative to the looper, that when the looper starts on its forward movement to enter the two needle 20 thread loops one after another, the retainer is retracted and backed out of the way of the movement of the looper. retainer is indicated in Figures 26 and 29,. and in Fig. 26, I have also shown the path of movement of the looper. As the looper approaches the forward end of its stroke, the loop retainer moves across the path of the looper and is retracted so as to engage the needle thread loops on the looper, as shown in Figures 33 and 34. The thread retainer passes underneath the looper thread and holds the two thread loops back on the looper, so that the needles when they descend, will pass with certainty into the thread triangle bounded by the looper'thread extending from the eye of the looper to the previous stitch, the body of the looper and the needle thread loops on the looper, and also extending to the previous stitch. Both needles enter the same thread triangle. Attention is called to the fact that the needle thread loops are locked by the looper thread loop, and thus it is that there is an interengagement'of the thread loops which makes a stitch which is more or less elastic and one in which the threads are not liable to break if the edge which is covered by the threads is put under a strain. The manner of forming the upper thread loops is shown in detail in Figures 36 to 46. The cross thread running through the thread guide 18 is engaged by the oscillating hook 12, and is carried in loop form across so that the left-hand needle only penetrates this loop, while the thread of the right-hand nee The path of the Fig. 47 I have shown in perspective merely the stitching threads, and it will be very apparent fromthis figure how the edge covering is made up of interlocked thread loops.
The upper trimmer blade 48 is moved up. and down by a connection with an eccentric 45) on the upper shaft 4 of the machine. Cooperating with this eccentric 49 is an eccentric strap 50 which is connccted'to a ball stud 64 adjustably mounted in the slot 63 of an arm 51, and the arm 51 is attached to the shaft 52. The eccentric strap through the connection stated, oscillates the shaft 52. The shaft 52 is journaled in a bearing bracket member 53 in which the shaft 54 is mounted. This shaft 54 carries an arm 126 at its lower end, and a cutting knife 48 is clamped to ahead 1 at the lower end of said arm 126. At the outer end of the shaft 52 there is a lever 55. ()n the shaft 54 is a collar 56 which carries a pin 57. This collar is free on the shaft 54. On the pin 57 is avsleeve Gigs-provided with a spherical enlargement 62. The lever 55 engages this spherical enlargement. Vhen the shaft 52 is oscillated, it will, through the lever 55, reciprocate the shaft 54 carrying the cutting blade 48. On the other side of the bracket bearing member 53 is a collar 58 which is attached to the shaft 52, which prevents any endwise movement of the rock shaft 52 in said bearing 53.
The shaft 54 carrying the cutting blade 48 is capable of limited rotation for properly positioning the knife for the cutting of the scallop in the fabric being stitched. This shaft 54 is oscillated by a gear wheel 59 which is fixed to the shaft. A rack bar 113 carried by a rod 112 oscillates the shaft 54. By adjusting the ball stud 64 in the slot 63, the extent of reciprocation imparted to the knife 48 may be adjusted. This enables the knife to be properly rcciprocated for different thicknesses of fabric beingstitched. Cooperating with the movable trimming blade 48 isafixedtrimming blade 106. This fixed blade 106 is mounted on a segment 110 which is pivotally supported by a throat plate 67 The center of its pivotal support coincides with the axis of the shaft 54 carrying the uppercutting blade. The segment 110 is oscillated by means of a rack 105. The purpose of rotating the knives of the cutting mechanism is so that the knives may be properly positioned for following the curved edge of a scallop. This will be referred to further in connection with the means which controls the position of the knives.
The entire stitching mechanism and the trimming mechanism are mounted so that they may be shifted laterally relative to the line of feed, and this is for the purpose of forming the curved scallops, although the fabric is fed forward in a straight line. The needle bar 11 and the shaft 15 carrying the thread hook are both mounted in a bracket 83, and this bracket 83 is supported by a rod 82 which is mounted to reciprocate in a direction parallel with the upper shaft 4, as clearly shown in Fig. 39f the drawings. When this.
rod 82 is moved endwise, it will bodily shift the needle mechanism and the cross thread laying mechanism, and as above noted, the needle is connected to its reciprocating head 7 so that this lateral movement is permitted. Inasmuch as the cross thread is actuated by the needle bar in its up and down movements, it can also be moved laterally without in any way disturbing its actuating means. looper mechanism is mounted onva bearing block 75. This bearing block 75 also carries a throat plate 67. The looper retaining mechanism is likewise mounted on this bearing block 75, and the bearing block 75 is capable of being shifted laterally, so as to prop erly position the looper to cooperate with the needles in their various shifted positions. The stitching mechanism and the cutting mechanism are shifted laterally relative to the feed, and the cutting mechanism is rotated for changing its angular position by pattern cams shown in Figures 8, 9,10 and 14 of the drawings. The movements may be broken up into three distinct groups. First, the
lateral movements of the needle, the throatplate and the looper are controlled by devices shown in Figures 8, 9 and 10; second, the lateral movement of the cutting-devices and controlling devices shown in Figures 8, 9 and 14; andthird, the rotating movements of the cutting devices controlled by members shown in Figures 8, 9 and 14. The pattern cams are formed in two disks 115 and 116, and these disks and the work wheel 117 are all fastened to a sleeve 118 journaled on a fixed shaft 119. A worm 120 on the main shaft 2 meshes with the worm wheel and rotates the disks. In the lower disk 115 there is a cam groove 68 (see Fig. 8). This cam groove controls the lateral position of the needles, the throat plate, the looper-and the upper cross thread laying hook. Journaled in suitable bearings attached to the frame of the machine, is the shaft 65. Fastened to the lower end of the shaft 65 is a rock lever 69. An arm 69 of said rock lever carries a roller 70 which runs in the camgroove 68. The other arm 69 of this rock lever is connected at 71 to apush rod 72, and the push rod 72 is connected. at 73 to a ball stud 74 which is fastened to the looper bearing block 75. As above noted, this looper bearing block 7 5 carries the looper and the loop retainer and also the throat plate, so that when the block is shifted through the rotation of the cam 68, the looper, the retainer and the throat plate will all be shifted therewith. On the upper end of the shaft 65there is an arm 76 which is connected to a thrust rod 77 (see Fig. 10). The thrust rod 77 is connected to'the upper arm 78 by a bifurcated lever 78 which is free to rock upon its supporting shaft 79. The
The
. lower arm 78 of said bifurcated lever is conhanging arm as above referred to. It is understood that the supporting rod 82 does not interfere in any way with the reciprocations of the needle bar 11. When the shaft 65 is oscillated, this supporting rod 82 is moved endwise, and with it, the supporting bracket in which the needle barreciprocates and in which the shaft 15 carrying the cross thread laying hook oscillates. Thus it is that the cam 68 shifts step bystep the position of the stitching mechanism, that is, the needle, the looper and the cross thread laying mechanism, and also the throat plate. This step by step shifting of the stitching elements occurs when the needles are out of the material, and is the movement of the stitching mechanism relative to the material. In other words, the material is-fed forward in a straight line and the stitching mechanism is gradually shifted in a direction at'right angles to the line of feed. The upper cam groove 84 is for the purpose of shifting the cutting devices laterally relative to the line of feed. Mounted on the shaft 65 is the inner-sleeve 101 and the outer sleeve 85. These sleeves are free to oscillate independent of each other, and independent of the shaft 65. Mounted on the outer sleeve is a two-armed lever 86'. The
arm 86 of this lever carries a roller 87 which runs in the camgroove 84. The arm 86 of said lever is attached to a link 89 and this link 89 is in turn connected to a rock frame 91. The rock frame 91 is connected toa link or thrust rod 90, which is provided with a head 92 attached to a pivot 93 carried by. a knife toa hall stud on a collar 98 which is fixed tothe rod 96. This rod 96 is attached to the" bracket 53 in which the shaft 54 is mounted. There is an extension 96 ofthe rod 96 also attached to the bracket, and this 'rod 96 and extension 96 are mounted to slide freely in the overhanging arm of the machine. When the sleeve shaft 85 is oscillated by the cam 84, the lower knife support 88 is shifted and the bracket 53 for the upper knife is likewise shifted. They are both shifted to the same extent, and this shifting of the cutting devices is in adirection at right angles to the line of feed. It is noted that the shifting of the cutting devices is accomplished by a mechanism which is independent of the mechanism for same so as to position the cut edge properly relative to the over-edge stitching devices.
In order that the cuttingknives ma be adjusted as to the cutting direction, t ey are capable of being rotated, as has been explained above. This rotation of the cutting knives is controlled by the cam 99 in the under side of the disk 116. The intermediate sleeve shaft 101 carries a two-armedlever 100. The lever arm 100 of the lever 100 is provided with a roller which engages the,
cam groove 99. The other arm 100 of the lever 100 is connected to a link 104, and this link in turn is connected to the rack bar 105 which rotates the support for the lower cutting member 106. In order that the stationary member 106 may be held with some pressure against the vertically reciprocating knife 84, I have provided a spring connection between the link 104 and the rack bar 105. Mounted on the link 104 is a fixed collar 109 and a fixed collar 109. The rack bar 105 is provided with collars 108 and 108, which pass freely along the link 104. A spring 107 encircles the link 104 and bears at one end against the collar 108, while its other end bears against the collar fixed to the link 104. There is suflicient room between the collars fixed to the link 104 and those movable thereon, that the spring 107 will continually urge the rack bar to the right as viewed in Fig. 14,
and this brings about a yielding pressure of the knife 106 against the vertically reciproeating knife 48. I have referred to the knife 106 as the stationary knife, in view of the fact that it has no movement during the cutting of the fabric. It is, however, shiftable bodily and capable of being rotated as noted above. There is a cover plate 111 attached to the support 88 for the lower knife which serves as a housing for the rack bar 105. Also mounted on the central sleeve shaft 101 is an arm 102. Connected tothe arm 102 is a link 112, and this link 112 carries a rack bar 113 which engages a pinion 59 fixed tothe shaft 54 carrying the movable cutting blade 48.
From the above it will be apparent that a when the disk 116 is rotated, the lever 100 will be oscillated by the roller thereon running inthe cam groove 99. This cam groove is so shaped that the central sleeve shaft 101 is gradually shifted or oscillated inone direction for the purpose of changing the angular positionof the knife, and when the point 99 is reached in the pattern cam groove 99, the oscillatinglever will be quickly returned to its normal starting point. The parts are so timed that when the cutting knife is at the beginning of the forming of a scallop, (see Figures 20 to 23), the lmife will be set at such an angle as to follow the curved edge of the scallop which is out. When the end i of the scallop is reached, as shown in Fig. 22,
by the usual hand lever 125. The fabric is indicated at 124 in the drawings, and the presser foot bearing upon this fabric, will hold it in proper relation to the feed dog,
so that the feed dog in each cycle of movement will feed the fabric forward in a straight line. The cutting of the edge of the fabric in scallops is accomplished by the lateral movements of the trimming knife, and the rotating movements of the trimming knife .is for the purpose of causing the cutting blades toface in the proper direction for outting the fabric. The stitch forming mechanism is moved laterally so as to follow the out edge, and thus it is that the fabric is trimmed so as to provide a series of scallops, and simultaneously with the cutting of the fabric to form the scalloped edge, said edge is covered with interlocked thread loops. The thread loops are all uniformly interlocked and therefore, the edge is very uniform when it is finished, and as above stated, it is more or less elastic, due to the fact that the coveringstitches are all interlocked loops. It will be understood, of course, that by changing the length of feed, the pattern of the scallops may be shortened or lengthened, and if the depth of the scallop is to be varied by changing the extent of lateral movement of the cutting devices and stitching elements, this is accomplished by changing the pattern cams.
The looper thread on its way to the looper passes through a thread controlling mechanism which 1s shown in detail in Fig. 10, and which is shown also in Figures 48 to 50, inclusive. This thread controlling mechanism includes nipper springs 22 and 23 which are closed during the return movement of the looper 21 for clamping the looper thread. The looper thread cam 24 engages the looper thread between the thread clamp and the looper, and associated with this cam 24 is the usual cast-off finger 25. This mechanism is of the usual construction as noted above, and further description thereof is not thought necessary.
It will be obvious that minor changes in the details of construction may be made with out departing from the spirit of the invention'as set forth in the appended claims.
Having thusdescribed the invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is- I 1. The combination of a stitch forming mechanism including cooperating elements forming edge covering stitches by enchaining thread loops, a cutting mechanism in advance of the stitching elements, means for-feeding the fabric in substantially a straight line, and means for imparting a lateral movement to the stitching and cutting mechanisms relative to the feed of the fabric and while the fabric is being fed for festooning the edge of the fabric, said cutting mechanism including means for shifting the position of the cutting devices angularly so as to follow the curved edge of the fabric as it is cut.
2. The combination of a stitch forming mechanism including cooperating elements forming edge covering stitches by enchaining thread loops, a cutting mechanism in advance of the stitching elements, means for feeding the fabric in a straight line, and means for shifting the stitching elements and the cut ting devices laterally of the line of feed for festooning the edge of the material, said cutting mechanism including means for shifting the position of the cutting devices angularly so as to follow the curved edge of the fabric as it is out. 1
3. Thecombination of a stitch forming mechanism including cooperating elements forming edge covering stitches by enchaining thread loops, a cutting mechanism in advance of the stitching elements, means for feeding the fabric in a straight line, and means for shifting the stitching elements and the cutting devices laterally of the line of feed for festooning the edge of the material, said cutting mechanism including means whereby the cuttingdevices may beturned so as to follow the curve of the festooned edge as the fabric is cut.
4. The combination of a stitch forming mechanism including cooperating elements forming edge covering stitches by enchaining thread loops, a cutting mechanism in advance of the stitching elements, means for feeding the fabric in a straight line, and means for shifting the stitching elements and the cutting devices at right angles to the line of feed for festooning the edge of the material, said means for shifting the stitching elements being operated independently of the means for shifting the cutting devices so that the stitching elements may be properly placed for covering the cut edge.
5. The combination of stitch forming mechanism including cooperating elements forming edge covering stitches by enchaining thread loops, a cutting mechanism in advance of the stitching elements including a reciprocating cutting blade and a. relatively stationary cutting blade, means for feeding the fabric in a straight line, means for bodily shifting the stitching elements in a direction at right angles to the line of feed, and independent means for shifting the cutting mechanism laterally in a, direction at right angles to the line of feed, said shiftin devices being so timed that the edge 0 the fabric is cut to form scallops and the cut edges covered by the stitching mechanism.
6; The combination of stitch forming mechanism including cooperating elements forming edge covering stitches by enchaining thread loops, a cutting mechanism in advance of the stitching elements including a reciprocating cutting blade and a relatively stationary cutting blade, means for feeding the fabric in a straight line, means for bodily shifting the stitching elements in a direction at right angles to the line of feed, said shifting devices being so timedthat the edge of the fabric is cut to form scallops and the cut edges covered by the stitching mechanism, said cutting mechanism including means whereby the cutting devices are shifted angularly so as, to follow the curved cutting edge of the fabric.
7. The combination of stitch forming mechanism including cooperating elements forming edge covering stitches by enchaining thread loops, a cutting mechanism in advance of the stitching elements including a reciprocating cutting blade and a relatively stationary cutting blade, means for feeding the fabric in a straight line, means for bodily shifting the stitching elements in a direction at right angles to the line of feed, said shifting devices being so timed that the edge of the fabric is cut to form scallops and the cut edges covered by the stitching mechanism, said means for shifting the cutting mechanism being independent of the means for shifting the stitching elements so that the stitching elements may be properly positioned for covering the cut edge.
8. The combination of stitch forming mechanism including cooperating elements forming edge covering stitches by enchaining thread loops, a cutting mechanism in advance of the stitching elements, a feeding amechanism for feeding the fabric in a straight line, means for shifting the cutting mecha- IllSIIl lIlCllldlllg' a pattern cam, devices controlled thereby for shifting-laterally of the line of feed, both the upper cutting device and the lower cutting device, and means for shiftin the stitch forming elements to cor respon with the lateral shift of the cutting mechanism so that a scalloped edge may be formed and covered with stitches.
9. The combination of stitch forming mechanism including cooperating elements forming edge covering stitches by enchaining thread loops, a cutting mechanism in advance of the stitching elements, a feeding mechanism for feeding the fabric in a straight line, means for shifting the cutting mechanism including a pattern cam, devices controlled thereby for shifting laterally the line of feed, both the upper cutting device and the lower cutting device, means for shifting
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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3079879A (en) * 1959-11-30 1963-03-05 Man Sew Corp Overedge sewing machines
US4117792A (en) * 1977-08-31 1978-10-03 Union Special Corporation Overedge stitch formation
US4438713A (en) * 1982-05-18 1984-03-27 Eltac Co. Ltd. Embroidery stitch formation device for sewing machine
US4513672A (en) * 1982-11-22 1985-04-30 Tokai Industrial Sewing Machine Co., Ltd. Embroidery sewing machine

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3079879A (en) * 1959-11-30 1963-03-05 Man Sew Corp Overedge sewing machines
US4117792A (en) * 1977-08-31 1978-10-03 Union Special Corporation Overedge stitch formation
US4438713A (en) * 1982-05-18 1984-03-27 Eltac Co. Ltd. Embroidery stitch formation device for sewing machine
US4513672A (en) * 1982-11-22 1985-04-30 Tokai Industrial Sewing Machine Co., Ltd. Embroidery sewing machine

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