US2158562A - Sewing machine - Google Patents

Sewing machine Download PDF

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Publication number
US2158562A
US2158562A US101388A US10138836A US2158562A US 2158562 A US2158562 A US 2158562A US 101388 A US101388 A US 101388A US 10138836 A US10138836 A US 10138836A US 2158562 A US2158562 A US 2158562A
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Prior art keywords
fabric
arm
needles
work support
machine
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US101388A
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Hacklander Hans
Vesconte Harold J Le
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Union Special Machine Co
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Union Special Machine Co
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Priority to US101388A priority Critical patent/US2158562A/en
Priority to FR816392D priority patent/FR816392A/en
Priority to FR816391D priority patent/FR816391A/en
Priority to GB6520/37A priority patent/GB491719A/en
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Publication of US2158562A publication Critical patent/US2158562A/en
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B1/00General types of sewing apparatus or machines without mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both
    • D05B1/02General types of sewing apparatus or machines without mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making single-thread seams
    • D05B1/06Single chain-stitch seams

Definitions

  • This invention relates to sewing machines; and it has reference more particularly to sewing machines of the feed-ofi-the-arm type exemplified in U. 3. Patent No. 1,741,095, granted to Norman 5 V. Christensen and Harold J. Le Vesconte'on I chine of the type specifically referred to, capable of performing all operations necessary to the production of a. covered seam according to the method defined in U. S. Patent No. 2,079,569, granted, to the aforesaid Norman V.
  • edge margins oi the fabric are abutted in upstanding relation, trimmed to an even height, then laterally folded over fiat into superimposition upon the iabric, and finally united by stitching including a central line of stitches through all three fabric thicknesses at 2 the fold, and by outer parallel lines of stitches through the fabric at opposite sides of the told, with crosswise connecting loops of looper thread overlying said fold.
  • FIG.1 II is a view partly in front elevation and partly in vertlcal section taken as indicated by the arrows 11-41 in Fig. I.
  • Fig. 111 is a view partly in elevation and partly 2 in section, of the upper portion of the. machine taken as indicated by the arrows III-III in Fig. I.
  • Fig. IV is a fragmentary view of the machine.
  • Fig. V is ahead elevation of the machine taken as indicated by the arrowsv-v in'Figs. I and II.
  • Figs. VI, and VII are plan sectional views taken 30 as indicated respectively by the arrows VI-VI A and VII--VII in Fig. V, and sho further details of the looping and severing mechanism.
  • Fig. VIII is a view partly in plan and partly in 85 VIII in Fig. 11 showing the work supporting arm with covers removed to exposeparts at the interior thereof.”
  • Fig. I1 is" a fragmentary detail elevation look-' 40 ing as indicated by the arrows E-JX in Fig.
  • Fig. x is a'i'rag'mentary view showing the front end'of the worksupporting arm in plan.
  • Figs. Xi and X11. are plan views respectively or'the main and diflerentialieed dogs of the machine. g v
  • Figs. XIILXIV and XV are detail sectional views taken six-indicated respectivelyby the arrows mvxrv and xv-xv in Figs. II and V111.
  • Fig. xvn is a iragmentary'plan view of the presser foot of the machine with certain appendages removed.
  • Figs. XVIII, XIX, XX, XXI are detail sectional views taken as indicated respectively by the arrows XVIII XVIII, XIX-XIX, XXXX and XJH-XXI in XVII showing sequential steps in the trimming and overlaying of the abutted ends of the edge portions of the fabric which ar to be united.
  • Fig. XXII is a plan view of a supplemental presser plate associated with the presser foot and the needles of the machine.
  • Figs. XXIII and XXIV are diagrammatic sectional views showing the character of scam resulting from the needle arrangement illustrated in Fig. XXII.
  • Figs. XXV, XXVI and XXVII are views like Figs. XXII, XXIII and XXIV showing an alternative arrangement of the supplemental presser plate and the needles, and the seam resulting therefrom.
  • Figs. XXVIII and XXIX are views corresponding to Figs. XXII and XXIII showing another alternative arrangement of the supplemental presser plate and needles, and the seam resulting therefrom.
  • the frame I of our improved sewing machine corresponds substantially to that of Patent No. 1,741,095 hereinbefore referred to, and as shown, has an elevated tubular longitudinal portion or sleeve 2 integral with a receding flat-bottomed base portion or bracket 3 which is adapted to be bolted to the top of a table or other support.
  • the sleeve 2 of the frame has a hollow forward-projection 4 whereto a hollow head 5 is suitably secured, and at the right hand end, said sleeve has a pendant neck 6.
  • a work support in the form of a'hollow arm 1 (Figs.
  • Feeding mechanism This mechanism comprises a main feed dog 25, and a differential feed dog 26 (Figs. 11, and
  • a rocker 35 fulcrumed on the eccentric center portion 36 of a pin 31 extending transversely of the work-supporting arm 1.
  • a set screw 38 To the right hand end of the main feed rod 33 is secured a clevised collar 39 (Figs. VIII and XVI) with an upward lug affording a' pivotal connection 46 for the lower end of a lengthwise-adjustable connecting rod 4
  • the feed rods 33 and 34 are rocked in the manner just explained, they are shifted back and forth longitudinally by means including another vertical pitman 43, which, at the top is connected to a crank 44- at the right hand end of the main drive shaft I2, and at the bottom, to a stud 45 midway of the length of the horizontal arm 46 of a bell crank lever 41 fulcrumed on a fixed. transverse pin 48 within the hollow of the work supporting arm 1.
  • the bell crank lever 41 has a pendant arm 49 connected by a horizontal' link 56 with the clevised collar 39 at the right hand end of the main feed rod 33. Accordingly, through this arrangement, a fixed longitudinal movement is imparted to the main feed dog rod 33.
  • the horizontal arm 46 of the bell crank lever 41 is coupled, by means of a drop link 5
  • action of the differential feed bar may be altered" as desired while the machine is running.
  • the feeding mechanism per se, forms the sub-- ject matter of a separate application, Serial No. 181,589 concurrently filed herewith.
  • Needle mechanism 1 This mechanism includes an arm 88 (Figs. 11
  • the machine is provided with a pair of loopers 18 and I8 to cooperate respectively with the needles 88 and 88, i8, said loopers being secured in a pendant looper arm 88 fulcrumed for swinging movement crosswise of the direction of feed about a stud 8i projecting laterally from the horizontal arm 82 of a bell crank lever 83, (see Figs. II, V andVI) said bell crank lever being. integrally formed with a rock shaft 88 journaled in a depending bearing lug 85 of the head 5.
  • the loopers I8, 18 it will be observed from Fig.
  • V are curved concentrically with the fulcrum stud 8i and swung back and forth in performing loop taking and shedding movements as a consequence of the action of a vertical pitman 88, which, at its lower-end, is connected to a lateral arm 81 of the looper carrier 88. At its upper end the pitman 88 is connected by a ball joint to a crank 88 on a countershaft 88 journaled in bearings 88 and 8
  • the counter-shaft 89 is driven in unison with the main shaft I2 through a pair of intermeshing miter gears 92, 93.
  • the arm 82 of the bell crank lever 83 above mentioned is connected by another pitman 84 (Figs. I; 111, V and V1) with an eccentric 85 on the counter shaft 88 so that needle clearing movements are imparted to the loopers I8, I9 through oscillations of the shaft 84 with the loopers passing from the front to the rear of the needles as required during each loop forming Presser mechanism
  • presser bar 98 As shown, the presser ar 88 passes through a sleeve 88 journaled in t bottom of the head 8 and an aligned guide bushing I88 in the top of said head.
  • the presser bar 88 is yieldingly urged downward by a heavy helical spring -I8I in compression between a collar I82 on'said bar and the bushing I88, which latter is threaded into the head 8 and formed at the top with.
  • a knurledhead 888 so that it may be adjusted to vary the pressure of said spring.
  • a look nut 984 serves to secure the bushing I88 in ad justed positions.
  • the presser bar 98 is held against rotation through engagement of a clevised lateral projection I88 of the presser foot shank 98 with a guide stud I88 depending from the head 5.
  • the presser foot '28 is longitudinally divided with provision of a. passageway III'I Fig. VII for the edge margins M, M" of the fabric F.
  • A'supplemental presser plate I88 with a longi-v tudinally notched clearance opening for the needles 88-18 occupies the rear portion of the guideway, I81 and has a connection with said presser foot at I88.
  • a spring I I8 (Figs. 11, V and VII) bears'upon the supplemental presser plate 988 and thus yieldingly urges it downward to effectively flatten the fold N of the seam and so holds'it as it is presented to the needles.
  • one side edge of the guideway I81 at the entrant end thereof is formed with a bevel Iii of which the angle gradually flattens and with which cooperates a correspondingly beveled edge H2 of a folding element H3 to gradually turn the upstanding abutting margins M, M of the fabric over laterally before they reach the supplemental presser plate 888.
  • the folding element H8 is slidable in a transverse slot H4 in the top of the presser foot and urged inward by a'spring I I5.
  • the presser foot 28 is provided at opposite sides of the passage I81 with flat underlying spring shoes 'I I8 whereof the ends iii and M8 are turned up and over. the toe and heel ends of said foot. To enable lifting of the presser foot in starting the-fabric beneath it,
  • a control means including a' Bowden wire 528 (Figs. I and IV) which is secured at one end to the collar I82 on the presser bar 88, and passes upward and rearward through an angularly fixed guide tube I2 I. within the contiguous hollows of the frame I and the head 8.
  • the other end of the wire I28 is secured to one arm of abell crank lever I22 fulc'rumedat I28 on a fixed bracket I24 at the exterior-of the frame I, the other arm of said bell crank lever being connected by means of a chain l25with a foot treadle or knee'lever, not illustrated;
  • a flexible arcuate trimming blade I21 having its center of curvature in the axis of said sleeve.
  • the sharpened end of the trimming blade I21 shears against the sharpened end of an opposing ledger blade I29 which overhangs the passage I91 in the presser foot and which is held in a transverse slot of said presser foot by a clamp plate I29.
  • An end tongue extension I39 of the moving blade I21 bears upon the top of the fixed blade I23 and thereby insures the maintenance of the dotting edges in proper shearing alignment vertically.
  • Threading En route from supply packages, not shown, the threads for the loopers 19, 19 pass to tensioning devices I35, I36 (Figs. I and IV) mounted upon a longitudinal supporting bar I91 on the frame I, then through suitable guides (not shown) to a rotary take-up I33 forming part of a hand wheel I39 at the outer end of the counter shaft 39, and finally to the loopers.
  • the rotary take up I33 comprises a pair of disks I39, I which are spaced relative to eachother and the back of the hand wheel I39 to afford spaces for the respective looper threads, and are connected by an eccentrically disposed loop engaging stud I42.
  • the fabric F is rounded upwardly about the rear end of the work arm 1 into the form of a tube and edge margins M, M thereof brought into contiguous upstanding relation as shown in Fig. XIII. with the fabric soplaced, it is directed beneath the presser foot 23, care being taken that the upstanding edge margins M, M properly enter the longitudinal passage I91 of said presser foot.
  • the fabric F is. progressively advanced forwardly along the arm 1' by action of the feed dogs 23 and 29.
  • the upstanding margins M, M are trimmed by the opposing trimming blades I21 and I23, the abutting edge margins progressively laid laterally in superimposition fiat upon the fabric by action of the folding element H3, and finally stitched and looped by the needles 93-19 and the loopers 13, 19.
  • the trimming, folding and sewing instrumentalities their functioning can be clearly observed by the operator. Under these circumstances it is possible to predetermine uniform trimming with assurance of a straight and neat covered seam. Since the cutting is eifected above the fabric, the trimmings are immediately disposed of and it is therefore only necessary to turn the tube right side out to complete the operation. This is a decided advantage over the patented machine hereinbefore referred to in connection with which the tube had to be turned wrong side out to remove the trimmings or to inspect the seam and afterwards turn the tube again to bring its right side out. By feeding oi.
  • the needle loops S, S and S, S may be connected by a looper loop L during each stitiohing cycle after the manner shown in Fig. XIX.
  • a singleneedle with a single cooperating .tubularized about the work support, with its lat-- eral edges abutted in upstanding relation; means beneath the work support for actuating the feeding means; means for laterally folding over the abutted margins downwardly fiat into superimtil aieaeea position upon the exposed face of the fabric; a group of upwardly-penetrating needles transversely-arranged with respect to the direction of feeding, certain of said needles being adapted to pass through the three thicknesses of fabric at the fold, and others through the single fabric thicknesses at opposite sides of the fold; a common holder for the needles; means beneath the work support for actuating the holder; looper means adapted to cooperate with the needles above the work support; and means for actuating the looper means.
  • a work support for longitudinally advancing fabric tubularized about the work support, with its lateral edges abutted in upstanding relation; means beneath the work support for actuating the feeding means; means for laterally folding over the abutted margins downwardly flat into superimposition upon the exposed face of the fabric; a group of upwardly-penetrating needles, certain of said needles being adapted to pass through the three thicknesses of fabric at the fold, and others being offset with respect to the first subdivision.
  • a common holder for the needles in the direction of feeding and adapted to pass through the single fabric thicknesses at opposite sides of the fold; a common holder for the needles; means beneath the work support for actuating the needle holder; a pair of loopers adapted to cooperate respectively with the two subdivisions of the needles above the work support; a common holder for the loopers; and means for actuating the loopers.
  • a work support for longitudinally advancing fabric tubularized about the work support, with its lateral edges abuttcd in upstanding relation; means beneath the work support for actuating the feeding means; means above the work support for trimming the abutted margins; actuating means above the work support for the trimming means; means operative after the trimming to laterally fold over the abutted margins downwardly flat into superimposition upon the exposed face of the fabric; a group of upwardlypenetrating needles transversely arranged with respect to the direction of feeding, certain of said needles being adapted to pass through the three thicknesses of fabric at the fold and others through the single fabric thicknesses at opposite sides of the fold; a common holder for the needles; means beneath the work support for actuating the holder; looper means adapted to cooperate with the needles above the work sup port; and means for actuating the looper means.
  • a horizontal work supr port In a sewing machine, a horizontal work supr port; feeding means for longitudinally advancing fabric tubularized about the work support, with its lateral edges abutting in upstanding relation; an elevated horizontal arm with a lateral extension at its free end overreaching the correextension of the arm and driven from the longitudinal shaft; a vertical presser bar confined to axial movement by the lateral extension of the arm; a presser foot carried by the presser bar, said presser foot providingmeans for.
  • a trimming blade horizontally oscillatable about the presser bar and adapted to trim the upstanding margins of the fabric before the folding; a needle adapted to upwardly penetrate the three thicknesses of fabric at the fold; means beneath the work support for actuating the needle; a looper pivotally mounted above the work support to cooperate with the needle; means deriving motion from the transverse shaft aforesaid for actuating the trimming blade and the looper; and mechanism beneath the work support deriving motion from the longitudinal drive shaft for actuating the feeding means and the needle.
  • a horizontal work support feeding means for longitudinally ad vancing fabric tubularized about the work support, with its lateral edges abutting in upstanding relation; an elevated horizontal arm with a lateral extension at its free end overreaching the corresponding end of the work support; a rotary drive shaft journaled longitudinally of the arm; a transverse rotary shaft journaled on the lateral extension of the arm and driven from the longitudinal shaft; a vertical; presser bar confined to axial movement in the lateral extension of the arm; a presser foot carried by the presser bar,
  • said presser foot providing means for initially guiding the upstanding margins of the fabric and for afterwards folding said margins downwardly flat into superimposition upon the exposed face of the fabric; a trimming blade horizontally oscillatable about the presser bar and adapted togtrim the upstanding margins of the fabric before the folding; a group of needles transversely arranged with respect to the direction of feeding, certain of said needles being adapted to upwardly penetrate the three thicknesses of fabric at the fold and others adapted to upwardly penetrate l gjthe single fabric thicknesses respectively at opposite sides of the fold; loopers pivotally mounted above the work support and adapted to cooperate with the needles; means deriving motion from the transverse shaft aforesaid for actuating the trimming blade and the loopers; and mechanism beneath the work support deriving motion from the longitudinal drive shaft for actuating the feeding means and the needles.

Description

May 16, 1939. H HACKLANDER ET AL SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 19, 1936 7 Sheets-Sheet l w w a a 4 4 4 4 w a e kw E mum MN www N QNFN WITNESSESQ V diw RNEYS.
May 16, 1939.
H. HACKLANDER ET AL SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 19, 1936 7 Sheets-Sheet 2 mm u QMNM mm m WlTNEi Ejd-ig wui May 16, 1939. H. HACKLANDER ET AL SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 19, 1956 7 Sheets-Sheet 4 INVENTORS- 7121125 imcklandzrzfic B mrald/ 1L5 Mszonia.
A NEYS.
W I TNEgE- g M Lw y 1 3 H. HACKLANDER El AL 2,158,562
SEWING MACHINE Fileajl Sept 19, 1956 7 Sheets-Sheet 5 WlTNElSlgisk-g" I I agi INVENTORS:
- By mrold lLfl samiq I. I
dTORNEYS.
May 16, 1939. H. HACKLANDER ET AL SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 19, 1936 7 Sheets-Sheet 6 mini Llllllll 'm fllllllllll Illlllllllll llll SW GE INVENTORSI ifims fiwkiandar 5x. By immiz/i 1L6 Vsconig N Gm TORNEYS Patented May 1e, 193s UNITED STATES PAT-Eur OFFICE e em sswmcmonmig:
Bans Hscklander, Tinlcy Park, as Harold. I.
he Vesconte, Western-Springs, 111., assignors to Claims.
This invention relates to sewing machines; and it has reference more particularly to sewing machines of the feed-ofi-the-arm type exemplified in U. 3. Patent No. 1,741,095, granted to Norman 5 V. Christensen and Harold J. Le Vesconte'on I chine of the type specifically referred to, capable of performing all operations necessary to the production of a. covered seam according to the method defined in U. S. Patent No. 2,079,569, granted, to the aforesaid Norman V. Christensen on May 4, .1937, in which edge margins oi the fabric are abutted in upstanding relation, trimmed to an even height, then laterally folded over fiat into superimposition upon the iabric, and finally united by stitching including a central line of stitches through all three fabric thicknesses at 2 the fold, and by outer parallel lines of stitches through the fabric at opposite sides of the told, with crosswise connecting loops of looper thread overlying said fold.
The foregoing objective we realize in part, as
hereinafter more fully explained, by providing mechanism for actuating the seaming needles as a group to penetrate the fabric from beneath,
and by providing a looper or a group of lcopers,
to cooperate with the needles above the fabric. In connection with stitching-and looping mechanism having the above attributes, we iurther provide, also as more fully set forth hereinafter, coordinated mechanism above the work support- 'ing arm of the machine for guiding the upstanding abutting margins of the iabric; trimming said margins; and iolding them preparatory to seaming. The operator of our machine can thus at all times observe the performance of these several .functions, and make any corrections that may be required to insure a uniform seam. This is a decided advantage over sewing machines of the Christensen and Le 'Vesconte type, supra, where-e I in the looping and trimming is efleoted inside the tubularized fabric so that. the tube had to be 5 Through provision, in trans it lectures a corporation of Illinois- I U Application september 19,1936, Serial N -section taken asindicated by the arrows VIII- Union Special Machine Company thioago, 111.,
already mentioned. of coordinated feed means adapted to advance the work outward oi the work supporting arm of the machine, we are able to operate upon one section of fabric after another without stopping the machine, thereby eliminat- 5 ing a serious drawback common to sewing machines wh w ein eachvpiece isadvanced upward of the work supporting arm and has to be removed before another can be seamed.
Other objects and attendant advantages will it appear from the detailed description which follows oi the attached drawings. whereof F18. I is a plan view of the machine with a portion of its frame base broken away'and with protective covers removed to expose parts within a hollow of its 15 frame.
[Fig.1 II is a view partly in front elevation and partly in vertlcal section taken as indicated by the arrows 11-41 in Fig. I.
Fig. 111 is a view partly in elevation and partly 2 in section, of the upper portion of the. machine taken as indicated by the arrows III-III in Fig. I.
Fig. IV is a fragmentary view of the machine.
1 partly in end'eievation and partly in section taken as indicated by the arrows IV-IV in Fig. 25 I, showing in part the mechanism for operating the loopers and the'trimmer.
Fig. V is ahead elevation of the machine taken as indicated by the arrowsv-v in'Figs. I and II.
Figs. VI, and VII are plan sectional views taken 30 as indicated respectively by the arrows VI-VI A and VII--VII in Fig. V, and sho further details of the looping and severing mechanism.
Fig. VIII is a view partly in plan and partly in 85 VIII in Fig. 11 showing the work supporting arm with covers removed to exposeparts at the interior thereof." g
Fig. I1: is" a fragmentary detail elevation look-' 40 ing as indicated by the arrows E-JX in Fig.
- Fig. x is a'i'rag'mentary view showing the front end'of the worksupporting arm in plan.
Figs. Xi and X11. are plan views respectively or'the main and diflerentialieed dogs of the machine. g v
Figs. XIILXIV and XV are detail sectional views taken six-indicated respectivelyby the arrows mvxrv and xv-xv in Figs. II and V111.
- Pig'XVI is a somewhat laterally exaggerated 'perspectivegview'showing a part of the feed mechanism oi the machine.
Fig. xvn is a iragmentary'plan view of the presser foot of the machine with certain appendages removed.
Figs. XVIII, XIX, XX, XXI are detail sectional views taken as indicated respectively by the arrows XVIII XVIII, XIX-XIX, XXXX and XJH-XXI in XVII showing sequential steps in the trimming and overlaying of the abutted ends of the edge portions of the fabric which ar to be united.
Fig. XXII is a plan view of a supplemental presser plate associated with the presser foot and the needles of the machine.
Figs. XXIII and XXIV are diagrammatic sectional views showing the character of scam resulting from the needle arrangement illustrated in Fig. XXII.
Figs. XXV, XXVI and XXVII are views like Figs. XXII, XXIII and XXIV showing an alternative arrangement of the supplemental presser plate and the needles, and the seam resulting therefrom.
Figs. XXVIII and XXIX are views corresponding to Figs. XXII and XXIII showing another alternative arrangement of the supplemental presser plate and needles, and the seam resulting therefrom.
The frame I of our improved sewing machine corresponds substantially to that of Patent No. 1,741,095 hereinbefore referred to, and as shown, has an elevated tubular longitudinal portion or sleeve 2 integral with a receding flat-bottomed base portion or bracket 3 which is adapted to be bolted to the top of a table or other support. At the left hand end (Figs. I and II), the sleeve 2 of the frame has a hollow forward-projection 4 whereto a hollow head 5 is suitably secured, and at the right hand end, said sleeve has a pendant neck 6. A work support in the form of a'hollow arm 1 (Figs. 1, 11 and VIII) extends forwardly at an acute angle beneath the sleeve 2 of the frame I, with its free left hand end overhung by the head 5. At its right hand'end'the' work supporting arm 2 terminates in an upwardly-projecting necks which abuts the pendant neck stitching and trimming mechanisms which are hereinafter described under separate headings, all derive motion from a horizontal main shaft I: which is journaled'in spaced bearings I3, l4, I5 and I6 within the hollow of the longitudinal sleeve 2 of the frame I, said shaft extending to the exterior at the left hand end of the machine as shown in Figs. I and III where it is provided with a pulley I1 for coordination, by a belt, with a suitable source of power of any usual character, not shown. Removable covers I3, I6 and respectively closing openings 2|, 22 and 23 in the top of the sleeve 2 and the head 5, afford access to the main shaft I2 and the parts connected therewith.
Feeding mechanism This mechanism comprises a main feed dog 25, and a differential feed dog 26 (Figs. 11, and
VIII-XII) respectively having toothed faces,
nally of the hollow of said arm.- As shown in Figs. VIII and XIII the feed bars 33 and 34 are slidingly engaged about midway of their lengths,
in a rocker 35 fulcrumed on the eccentric center portion 36 of a pin 31 extending transversely of the work-supporting arm 1. By rotatively adjusting the fulcrum pin 31, it ispossible to shift the orbit of movement of the two feed dogs and 26-vertical1y', the adjustment being fixable by a set screw 38. To the right hand end of the main feed rod 33 is secured a clevised collar 39 (Figs. VIII and XVI) with an upward lug affording a' pivotal connection 46 for the lower end of a lengthwise-adjustable connecting rod 4| which extends upward through the communicating hollows of the necks 6 and 8, and which is connected at its upper end to an eccentric 42 on the main shaft I2, see Figs. I and HI. Thus, during each rotation of the main shaft I2, the rods 33 and 34 carrying the feed dogs 25 and 26 will be moved up and down about the transverse pin 31 as" an axis since both said rods are engaged in the rocker 35 as previously explained. By adjusting the length of the eccentric rod 4| in connection with the regulation afforded by the fulcrum pin 31, it is possible to vary the angle of the major axis of the path of travel of the feed dogs or to adjust their path of travel bodily, verticallyor both. As the feed rods 33 and 34 are rocked in the manner just explained, they are shifted back and forth longitudinally by means including another vertical pitman 43, which, at the top is connected to a crank 44- at the right hand end of the main drive shaft I2, and at the bottom, to a stud 45 midway of the length of the horizontal arm 46 of a bell crank lever 41 fulcrumed on a fixed. transverse pin 48 within the hollow of the work supporting arm 1. As shown in Figs. II and XVI, the bell crank lever 41 has a pendant arm 49 connected by a horizontal' link 56 with the clevised collar 39 at the right hand end of the main feed rod 33. Accordingly, through this arrangement, a fixed longitudinal movement is imparted to the main feed dog rod 33. At its outer end, the horizontal arm 46 of the bell crank lever 41 is coupled, by means of a drop link 5|, with a horizontal link 52 whereof the left hand end, is pivotally connected to a the projecting end of the stud 51 is an adjustable disk 53 having a finger projection 66 and carrying'a pair of opposing circumferentially adjustable stops 6I (Fig. IX) to cooperate with a headed pin 62 which extends through an aperture in the side of the arm 1 and through a registering arcuate slot 63 in said disk. A spring 64 in compression between a nut 65 at the inner end of the stop pin 62 and the side wall of {the arm I, maintains the=disk 59 in frictional engagement with the outer face of said arm 1 to prevent it from shifting accidentally. As the bell crank 41 oscillates about the pin.46, the piv-' otal connection 54 will be raised and lowered and the vertical movement thereof translated into horizontal movement of the differential feed bar 34 by action of the lazy bar'55' as the latter swings back and forth about its connection with the end of the supporting arm 58. with the disk f 59 adjusted as shown in Fig. IX, a minimum throw is imparted to the diiferentialfeed bar 34, but by turning the disk in the direction of the arrow to mowe the arm 58 from the dotted position to the dot and dash line position, the throw of the differential feed bar may be increased, such throw being always proportional to that of the main feed. bar 33 since both of said bars are actuated from the bell crank lever 41. As-
a consequence of the described arrangement, the
action of the differential feed bar may be altered" as desired while the machine is running.
The feeding mechanism, per se, forms the sub-- ject matter of a separate application, Serial No. 181,589 concurrently filed herewith.
Needle mechanism 1 This mechanism includes an arm 88 (Figs. 11
and V) which is fulcrumed on a transverse pin 8"! within the work supporting arm 'I' at the enter end thereof, said arm carrying three transverselyspaced nedles 88, 88 and I8 which are curved concentrically with the swinging axis 81 and which move upward through elongate apertures in the throat plate 2?. Swinging movement is imparted to the needles 8 through a horizontal link H within the hollow of the work support I beneath the feed rods 33, 34. At its right hand end the link II is pivotally connected to the pendant 5;, arm I2 of a bell crank lever 13' which isfree to' adjacent the crank 44, see Figs. II, III, VIII and XIV. Accordingly, during each rotation ofv the main shaft I2 the needles 68-18 are concurrently swung up to penetrate the fabric from beneath.
Lower mechanism As shown in Figs. 11 and V, the machineis provided with a pair of loopers 18 and I8 to cooperate respectively with the needles 88 and 88, i8, said loopers being secured in a pendant looper arm 88 fulcrumed for swinging movement crosswise of the direction of feed about a stud 8i projecting laterally from the horizontal arm 82 of a bell crank lever 83, (see Figs. II, V andVI) said bell crank lever being. integrally formed with a rock shaft 88 journaled in a depending bearing lug 85 of the head 5. The loopers I8, 18 it will be observed from Fig. V, are curved concentrically with the fulcrum stud 8i and swung back and forth in performing loop taking and shedding movements as a consequence of the action of a vertical pitman 88, which, at its lower-end, is connected to a lateral arm 81 of the looper carrier 88. At its upper end the pitman 88 is connected by a ball joint to a crank 88 on a countershaft 88 journaled in bearings 88 and 8| within the hollows of the lateral frame projection 4 and the attached head 5. As shown in Figs. I and IV,
the counter-shaft 89 is driven in unison with the main shaft I2 through a pair of intermeshing miter gears 92, 93. The arm 82 of the bell crank lever 83 above mentioned is connected by another pitman 84 (Figs. I; 111, V and V1) with an eccentric 85 on the counter shaft 88 so that needle clearing movements are imparted to the loopers I8, I9 through oscillations of the shaft 84 with the loopers passing from the front to the rear of the needles as required during each loop forming Presser mechanism The presser. foot'of the machine indicated'at 28 in Figs. II, VII, and is flat and formed with an upstanding'arch'ed' shank as which is secured by a screw 81 to the lower end of a. presser bar 98. As shown, the presser ar 88 passes through a sleeve 88 journaled in t bottom of the head 8 and an aligned guide bushing I88 in the top of said head. The presser bar 88 is yieldingly urged downward by a heavy helical spring -I8I in compression between a collar I82 on'said bar and the bushing I88, which latter is threaded into the head 8 and formed at the top with. a knurledhead 888 so that it may be adjusted to vary the pressure of said spring. A look nut 984 serves to secure the bushing I88 in ad justed positions. The presser bar 98 is held against rotation through engagement of a clevised lateral projection I88 of the presser foot shank 98 with a guide stud I88 depending from the head 5. The presser foot '28 is longitudinally divided with provision of a. passageway III'I Fig. VII for the edge margins M, M" of the fabric F.
A'supplemental presser plate I88 with a longi-v tudinally notched clearance opening for the needles 88-18 occupies the rear portion of the guideway, I81 and has a connection with said presser foot at I88. A spring I I8 (Figs. 11, V and VII) bears'upon the supplemental presser plate 988 and thus yieldingly urges it downward to effectively flatten the fold N of the seam and so holds'it as it is presented to the needles.
As shown in Figs. XVH, XIX and XX one side edge of the guideway I81 at the entrant end thereof is formed with a bevel Iii of which the angle gradually flattens and with which cooperates a correspondingly beveled edge H2 of a folding element H3 to gradually turn the upstanding abutting margins M, M of the fabric over laterally before they reach the supplemental presser plate 888. From Figs-Vn and XVII it will be observed that the folding element H8 is slidable in a transverse slot H4 in the top of the presser foot and urged inward by a'spring I I5. In order that variations inv the edge thickness of the fabric may be compensated for, the presser foot 28 is provided at opposite sides of the passage I81 with flat underlying spring shoes 'I I8 whereof the ends iii and M8 are turned up and over. the toe and heel ends of said foot. To enable lifting of the presser foot in starting the-fabric beneath it,
there is provided a control means includinga' Bowden wire 528 (Figs. I and IV) which is secured at one end to the collar I82 on the presser bar 88, and passes upward and rearward through an angularly fixed guide tube I2 I. within the contiguous hollows of the frame I and the head 8. The other end of the wire I28 is secured to one arm of abell crank lever I22 fulc'rumedat I28 on a fixed bracket I24 at the exterior-of the frame I, the other arm of said bell crank lever being connected by means of a chain l25with a foot treadle or knee'lever, not illustrated;
The presser foot, per se, forms the subject matter of a separate application, SerialNo. 182,480 concurrently filed herewith. I 1
rnm ih mechanism Clamped to the projecting endof the sleeve 99.
end of which is secured a flexible arcuate trimming blade I21 having its center of curvature in the axis of said sleeve. The sharpened end of the trimming blade I21 shears against the sharpened end of an opposing ledger blade I29 which overhangs the passage I91 in the presser foot and which is held in a transverse slot of said presser foot by a clamp plate I29. An end tongue extension I39 of the moving blade I21 bears upon the top of the fixed blade I23 and thereby insures the maintenance of the dotting edges in proper shearing alignment vertically. oscillatory, movement is imparted to the sleeve 99 and in turn to the trimming blade I21 carried by it, through connection of a ball arm I3I at the top of said sleeve within the head 5 by a short link I32 with the upright arm I33 of the bell crank lever 33 herein'bei'ore described in connection with the looper mechanism.
Threading En route from supply packages, not shown, the threads for the loopers 19, 19 pass to tensioning devices I35, I36 (Figs. I and IV) mounted upon a longitudinal supporting bar I91 on the frame I, then through suitable guides (not shown) to a rotary take-up I33 forming part of a hand wheel I39 at the outer end of the counter shaft 39, and finally to the loopers. As shown, the rotary take up I33 comprises a pair of disks I39, I which are spaced relative to eachother and the back of the hand wheel I39 to afford spaces for the respective looper threads, and are connected by an eccentrically disposed loop engaging stud I42. Through location of the rotary take-up I33 on the head 3 over the outer end of the work supporting arm 1 in close proximity over the loopers 13, 19, positive and effective control is had of the looper threads. The threads for the .three needles 93-19 similarly pass through other tensioning devices I33, I and I on the bar I31, and from thence pass through suitable thread guides along the arm 1 to the needles 9319.
The operation of the machine is as follows:
The fabric F is rounded upwardly about the rear end of the work arm 1 into the form of a tube and edge margins M, M thereof brought into contiguous upstanding relation as shown in Fig. XIII. with the fabric soplaced, it is directed beneath the presser foot 23, care being taken that the upstanding edge margins M, M properly enter the longitudinal passage I91 of said presser foot. Upon starting the machine, the fabric F is. progressively advanced forwardly along the arm 1' by action of the feed dogs 23 and 29. Incident to advance of the fabric, the upstanding margins M, M are trimmed by the opposing trimming blades I21 and I23, the abutting edge margins progressively laid laterally in superimposition fiat upon the fabric by action of the folding element H3, and finally stitched and looped by the needles 93-19 and the loopers 13, 19. In consequence of the described construction, arrangement and actuation of the trimming, folding and sewing instrumentalities, their functioning can be clearly observed by the operator. Under these circumstances it is possible to predetermine uniform trimming with assurance of a straight and neat covered seam. Since the cutting is eifected above the fabric, the trimmings are immediately disposed of and it is therefore only necessary to turn the tube right side out to complete the operation. This is a decided advantage over the patented machine hereinbefore referred to in connection with which the tube had to be turned wrong side out to remove the trimmings or to inspect the seam and afterwards turn the tube again to bring its right side out. By feeding oi.
and 19 abreast but inadvance of the central needle 63 in the direction of feeding, the crosswise connecting looper loop L" of a pair of outer needle loops S and S formed during one stitching cycle as in Fig. XXIII, is covered by the looper loop L of a central needle loop S during the succeeding stitching cycle.
By placing the central needle in advance of the needles 69 and 19 as shown in Fig. XXV, the looper loop L of a central needle loop S formed as in Fig. XXVI during one stitching cycle, is covered by the crosswise looper loop L of a pair of outer needle loops S, S formed in the next knitting'cyclc as shown in Fig. XXVII.
By arranging all three needles 68, 69 and 19 abreast and employing a single looper 18 as in Fig. XXVIII, the needle loops S, S and S, S may be connected by a looper loop L during each stitiohing cycle after the manner shown in Fig. XIX.
It is to be particularly noted that in all cases the central needle loops S pass through the fabric F as well as the; two superimposed margins M, M at the foldN, and that the fold is covered by the crosswise looper loops L' connecting the outer lines of needle loops S S which pass through the fabric immediately beyond the fold.
From the foregoing it will be seen that we have provided a simple and efficient machine which can be operated to-form a seam which is advantageous in that on one face of the garment no covering thread is required to conceal raw fabric edges, the seam thus having an attractive appearance as compared with ordinary seams.
While we have described our improved ma chine as being particularly useful in the production of tubular articles, it is not necessarily limited to this field since it can be adapted as well in uniting separate fabric sections. It is also to be understood that our machine can be used in the formation of seanis other than those illustrated in Figs. XXIII, XXVI and XXIX without departing from the spirit of our invention as defined in certain of the appended claims, by employing a singleneedle with a single cooperating .tubularized about the work support, with its lat-- eral edges abutted in upstanding relation; means beneath the work support for actuating the feeding means; means for laterally folding over the abutted margins downwardly fiat into superimtil aieaeea position upon the exposed face of the fabric; a group of upwardly-penetrating needles transversely-arranged with respect to the direction of feeding, certain of said needles being adapted to pass through the three thicknesses of fabric at the fold, and others through the single fabric thicknesses at opposite sides of the fold; a common holder for the needles; means beneath the work support for actuating the holder; looper means adapted to cooperate with the needles above the work support; and means for actuating the looper means.
2. In a sewing machine, a work support; feeding means for longitudinally advancing fabric tubularized about the work support, with its lateral edges abutted in upstanding relation; means beneath the work support for actuating the feeding means; means for laterally folding over the abutted margins downwardly flat into superimposition upon the exposed face of the fabric; a group of upwardly-penetrating needles, certain of said needles being adapted to pass through the three thicknesses of fabric at the fold, and others being offset with respect to the first subdivision. in the direction of feeding and adapted to pass through the single fabric thicknesses at opposite sides of the fold; a common holder for the needles; means beneath the work support for actuating the needle holder; a pair of loopers adapted to cooperate respectively with the two subdivisions of the needles above the work support; a common holder for the loopers; and means for actuating the loopers.
3. In a sewing machine, a work support; feeding means for longitudinally advancing fabric tubularized about the work support, with its lateral edges abuttcd in upstanding relation; means beneath the work support for actuating the feeding means; means above the work support for trimming the abutted margins; actuating means above the work support for the trimming means; means operative after the trimming to laterally fold over the abutted margins downwardly flat into superimposition upon the exposed face of the fabric; a group of upwardlypenetrating needles transversely arranged with respect to the direction of feeding, certain of said needles being adapted to pass through the three thicknesses of fabric at the fold and others through the single fabric thicknesses at opposite sides of the fold; a common holder for the needles; means beneath the work support for actuating the holder; looper means adapted to cooperate with the needles above the work sup port; and means for actuating the looper means.
i. In a sewing machine, a horizontal work supr port; feeding means for longitudinally advancing fabric tubularized about the work support, with its lateral edges abutting in upstanding relation; an elevated horizontal arm with a lateral extension at its free end overreaching the correextension of the arm and driven from the longitudinal shaft; a vertical presser bar confined to axial movement by the lateral extension of the arm; a presser foot carried by the presser bar, said presser foot providingmeans for. initially guiding the upstanding margins of the fabric and for afterwards folding said margins downwardly fiat into superimposition upon the exposed face of the fabric; a trimming blade horizontally oscillatable about the presser bar and adapted to trim the upstanding margins of the fabric before the folding; a needle adapted to upwardly penetrate the three thicknesses of fabric at the fold; means beneath the work support for actuating the needle; a looper pivotally mounted above the work support to cooperate with the needle; means deriving motion from the transverse shaft aforesaid for actuating the trimming blade and the looper; and mechanism beneath the work support deriving motion from the longitudinal drive shaft for actuating the feeding means and the needle.
5. In a sewing machine, a horizontal work support; feeding means for longitudinally ad vancing fabric tubularized about the work support, with its lateral edges abutting in upstanding relation; an elevated horizontal arm with a lateral extension at its free end overreaching the corresponding end of the work support; a rotary drive shaft journaled longitudinally of the arm; a transverse rotary shaft journaled on the lateral extension of the arm and driven from the longitudinal shaft; a vertical; presser bar confined to axial movement in the lateral extension of the arm; a presser foot carried by the presser bar,
said presser foot providing means for initially guiding the upstanding margins of the fabric and for afterwards folding said margins downwardly flat into superimposition upon the exposed face of the fabric; a trimming blade horizontally oscillatable about the presser bar and adapted togtrim the upstanding margins of the fabric before the folding; a group of needles transversely arranged with respect to the direction of feeding, certain of said needles being adapted to upwardly penetrate the three thicknesses of fabric at the fold and others adapted to upwardly penetrate l gjthe single fabric thicknesses respectively at opposite sides of the fold; loopers pivotally mounted above the work support and adapted to cooperate with the needles; means deriving motion from the transverse shaft aforesaid for actuating the trimming blade and the loopers; and mechanism beneath the work support deriving motion from the longitudinal drive shaft for actuating the feeding means and the needles.
HANS HACER.
J. LE VESCQNTE.
US101388A 1936-09-19 1936-09-19 Sewing machine Expired - Lifetime US2158562A (en)

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US101388A US2158562A (en) 1936-09-19 1936-09-19 Sewing machine
FR816392D FR816392A (en) 1936-09-19 1937-01-15 Driving mechanism for sewing machines
FR816391D FR816391A (en) 1936-09-19 1937-01-15 Sewing machine
GB6520/37A GB491719A (en) 1936-09-19 1937-03-05 Improvements in or relating to sewing machines

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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4064818A (en) * 1975-09-11 1977-12-27 Rockwell-Rimoldi S.P.A. Sewing machine base
US6904854B1 (en) * 2003-12-15 2005-06-14 Shing Ray Sewing Machine Co., Ltd. Transverse longitudinal-cylinder sewing machine
US20050126463A1 (en) * 2003-12-15 2005-06-16 Shing Ray Sewing Machine Co., Ltd. Transverse longitudinal-cylinder sewing machine
CN100350091C (en) * 2003-12-08 2007-11-21 星锐缝纫机股份有限公司 Horizontal type straight drum shaped sewing machine

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4064818A (en) * 1975-09-11 1977-12-27 Rockwell-Rimoldi S.P.A. Sewing machine base
CN100350091C (en) * 2003-12-08 2007-11-21 星锐缝纫机股份有限公司 Horizontal type straight drum shaped sewing machine
US6904854B1 (en) * 2003-12-15 2005-06-14 Shing Ray Sewing Machine Co., Ltd. Transverse longitudinal-cylinder sewing machine
US20050126462A1 (en) * 2003-12-15 2005-06-16 Jui-Jung Chuo Transverse longitudinal-cylinder sewing machine
US20050126463A1 (en) * 2003-12-15 2005-06-16 Shing Ray Sewing Machine Co., Ltd. Transverse longitudinal-cylinder sewing machine
US6968793B2 (en) * 2003-12-15 2005-11-29 Shing Ray Sewing Machine Co., Ltd. Transverse longitudinal-cylinder sewing machine

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GB491719A (en) 1938-09-05
FR816392A (en) 1937-08-06

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