Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/42—Amides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
  • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts

Definitions

• My invention relates to a liquid hair waving composition of improved characteristicsand more particularly relates .to an improved waving lotion for waving human hair on the head without the use of heat.
• Waving lotions of the type herein comprise as their active component a compound, usually referred to as a reducing agent, which acts to convert the disulfide or cystine bonds of the hair keratin to sulfhydryl groups.
• a reducing agent acts to convert the disulfide or cystine bonds of the hair keratin to sulfhydryl groups.
• neutralizer solutions which in general are solutions of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate, alkaline perborate and the like.
• the composition herein utilizes a thiol, i. e., an organic compound containing a sulfhydryl or mercaptan group, as the hair-reducing agent.
• a thiol i. e., an organic compound containing a sulfhydryl or mercaptan group
• the thiol is employed in aqueous alkaline solution, the pH of the solution being variable within limits hereinafter indicated.
• Preferred thiols are those comprising strong polar groups, particularly neutralized acid groups, e. g., ammonium thioglycolate, sodium thioglycolate, the sodium and ammoni um salts of mercaptoethanesulfonic acid and 3- mercapto- 2-hydroxypropanesulfonicYacid, etc.
• thiol waving lotions as presently. marketed necessarily represent a compromise, although there isconsiderable deviation among brands, some manufacturers preferring a relatively high concentration of the thiol with a relatively lowpH, others preferring to incjreasethe pH and reduce the thiol content. In any case, to reduce the waving time below the one to two hour periodv ordinarily required, it is necessary to make the pH of the thioglycolate concentration of the lotion so high that maximum wave quality is not obtained.
• the present invention aims to generally increase the effectiveness of thiol waving lotions.
• the invention may be applied in any one of a numberof ways.
• the plasticization of the hair may be markedly speeded up and substantially tighter wave undulations produced without increasing either the concentration of the thiol or the alkalinity of the lotion.
• eitheror both the thiol concentration and the alkalinity may be substantially reduced, yet adequate plasticization of the hair achieved in the same or a short er period.
• My invention stems from a discovery previously made that the reduction of hair withthiol compounds is accompanied by substantial swelling of the hair. In considering this discovery, it occurred to me that the swelling proved-to be altoether effective in waving hair.
• My invention is particularly striking in its effects as demonstrated in relation to the thiol cysteine.
• This compound used in concentrations and at pH values which are both safe and commercially feasible, does not provide an acceptable wave; indeed, at room temperature it shows so little waving activity that for all practical purposes it-isvalueless for home waving.
• the composition becomes substantially as effective as the conventional ammonium thioglycolate compositions.
• low molecular weight monoalkyl derivatives of urea as methyl and ethyl urea, for example, are also applicable.
• the poly-alkyl derivative, dimethyl urea, for instance, are inoperative, as are urea derivatives comprising aryl groups.
• compositions within the scope of my invention are from 0.35 to- 0.8 molar in the respect of the 3 thiol and from 0.5 to 4.0 molar in the respect of the urea compound.
• the pH of the compositions may lie anywhere within the range 8.6 to 9.5. Naturally, I do not mean by the recitation of these limits to encompass compositions which are unsafe or ineffective for hair waving. Thus, when the pH of the composition lies within the upper portion of the stated range, the concentration of the solutes, particularly the thiol, will be generally lower than when the pH lies within the lower portion of such range.
• urea to reduce the amount of thiol needed for a given waving effect is of substantial advantage from a commercial standpoint since urea is much less EXPEIF sive than any of the thiols.
• thiol and urea compound I may include a perfume in the composition; also a wetting agent and a creaming agent.
• a perfume in the composition; also a wetting agent and a creaming agent.
• These materials are old in waving lotions; in fact, it is because of the practice of including a creaming agent that the preparations are referred to as lotions.
• the amount of ammonium salt included in the lotion hinges on the identity of the salt and on the extent of deswelling required in order to avoid the over-processing.
• concentrations of the salt i. e., concentrations such that the molarity of the solution in point of the salt exceeds 3 M, the advantage is largely lost.
• the ammonium salt is used in a concentration within the range 0.25 to 2.0 M.
• Table II The swelling of hair in ammonium thioglycolate lotions containing urea and ammonium salts, taken from the portion of the shaft which is just above the scalp line Table III'.-The performance of 0.5 M ammonium thioglycolate lotions containing urea and ammonium salts with relation to swelling and-waving activity r m Composition mersion Lotion H Wave for- No. v P Rating Urea Salt (Cone) Mi fig Per- Per- M cent cent 0. 0 9. 3 -l( 47 100 1. 5 9. 3 I 81 111 1. 0 9. 3 l 86 1. 5 9. 3 54 l. 5 9. 1 61 96 2. 0 (NH4)2SO4 (0.3 M) 9.
• Compositions 3-7 inclusive in Table III illustrate the variations in pH, .salt concentration and urea concentration which can be made with improvement in waving results in lotions of the indicated ammonium thioglycolate concentration. It will be observed from this table that the swelling level after 30 minutes in the case of each of these ammonium salt-containing compositions was let: than the 100% obtaining in the instance of the control position, i. e., lotion No. 1. On the other hand, the rate of swelling as indicated by the minute value was greater. In each of Tables II and HI, the swelling after 30 minutes is equivalent to the equilibrium swelling.
• Example I A solution containing 2.6 M urea and 0.45 M am-' monium thioglycolate, brought to a pH of 9.4 by the addi tion of ammonium hydroxide, when tested on the heads of several subjects, following favorable results with hair tresses made from cuttings from human hair, was founi to allow for the impartation of a very good cold wave despite the relatively low thiol concentration.
• Example 11 A composition containing 0.5 M cysteine hydrochloride and 3 M urea, adjusted to a pH of 9.4 with ammonia, plasticized the test hair to the extent required for impartation of a good wave in about 30 minutes. If the urea is omitted, very little waving activity is observed, even though the solution is left in contact with the hair for a substantially longer period.
• thiols containing neutralized acid groups my invention may also be applied to thiol compositions in which the thiol does not comprise such a group.
• satisfactory resul '1 may be had with alkaline polar thiols such as fl-thioethylamine or with non-polar and essentially neutral thiols as exemplified, for instance, by fi-hydroxyethanethiol, monothiodimethyl ketone, B-monothiodiethylether, the ethyl ester of thioglycolic acid, and the various amides of thin glycolic acid.
• ammonium salts of mercaptoethanesulfonic acid and 3-mercapto-2-hydroxypropanesulfonic acid are not prone to cause over-processing of the hair in the presence of urea and hence do not require the employment of an ammonium salt therewith.
• An aqueous hair waving composition having a pH within the range 8.6 to 9.4 and comprising ammonium thioglycolate, a urea compound capable of swelling hair selected from the class consisting of urea, methyl urea and ethyl urea, and an ammonium salt of a strong mineral acid incapable of reducing hair, said composition being from 0.4 to 0.6 molar in the respect of the ammonium thioglycolate, from 0.5 to 3.0 molar in the respect of the urea compound and from 0.5 to 1.5 molar in point of the ammonium salt.
• An aqueous hair waving composition having a pH within the range 9.0 to 9.5 and comprising cysteine effective as a hair-reducing agent and a urea compound capable of swelling hair selected from the class consisting of urea, methyl urea and ethyl urea, said composition being from 0.4 to 0.8 molar in the respect of the cysteine derivative and from 0.5 to 4.0 molar in the respect of the urea compound.
• An aqueous hair waving composition having a pH within the range of 9.0 to 9.5 and comprising a salt of mercaptoethanesulfonic acid effective as a hair-reducing agent and a urea compound capable of swelling hair selected from the class consisting of urea, methyl urea and ethyl urea, said composition being from 0.4 to 0.8 molar in the respect of said salt and from 0.5 to 4.0 molar in the respect of the urea compound.
• An aqueous hair Waving composition having a pH Within the range 9.0 to 9.5 and comprising a salt of 3- mercapto-Z-hydroxypropanesulfonic acid effective as a hair-reducing agent and a urea compound capable of swelling hair selected from the class consisting of urea, methyl urea and ethyl urea, said composition being from 0.4 to 0.8 molar in the respectof said salt and from 0.5 to 4.0 molar in the respect of the urea compound.
• An aqueous hair waving composition having a pH within the range 8.6 to 9.5 comprising a thiol hair reducing agent, a urea compound capable of swelling hair selected from the class consisting of urea, methyl urea and ethyl urea and an ammonium salt of a strong mineral acid incapable of reducing hair, said composition being from 0.35 to 0.8 molar in said thiol, from 0.5 to 4.0 molar in said urea compound and from 0.25 to 2.0 molar in said ammonium salt.

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• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)

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Cited By (13)

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Citations (3)

• 0
  • BE BE510867D patent/BE510867A/xx unknown
• 1951
  • 1951-04-23 US US222527A patent/US2717228A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
• 1952
  • 1952-04-21 FR FR1062508D patent/FR1062508A/fr not_active Expired

Patent Citations (3)

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