US2688972A - Process for permanently waving human hair - Google Patents
Process for permanently waving human hair Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- US2688972A US2688972A US257433A US25743351A US2688972A US 2688972 A US2688972 A US 2688972A US 257433 A US257433 A US 257433A US 25743351 A US25743351 A US 25743351A US 2688972 A US2688972 A US 2688972A
- Authority
- US
- United States
- Prior art keywords
- hair
- wave
- solution
- wound
- lotion
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
Definitions
- This invention concerns a process for imparting a permanent Wave to human hair without the use of heat.
- the requisite neutralization step is a troublesome feature, both because it involves considerable work by the user and because, unless the neutralizing is carefully and properly done, the wave may be seriously impaired.
- a large percentage of reported adverse results with the process has been directly traceable to improper neutralization of the reduced hair, stemming from impatience on the part of the applicator who, in the case of home use of the process, is frequently the recipient of the wave as well.
- the neutralizing operation is especially difiicult to perform in the case of children due to their natural restlessness, which virtually precludes proper application of the solution.
- the principal object of my invention is to provide a cold waving process in the execution of which the use of a neutralizing solution is not required. Another object is to provide such as process which is much simpler to perform than the prior process and which is relatively foolproof. A further object is to provide a process whereby the strongest Wave result can be attained with minimum chemical change of the hair. A still further object is to provide a process in which the hair following impartation of the wave is neutralized automatically. Still another object is to provide a process allowing for the employment of curling rods of a diameter enabling styling of the hair as an incident of the drying period. A still further object of the invention is to provide a process whereby the hair may be permanently waved in the form of pin curls. Still another object is to provide a process which gives extremely tight ringlets without hair damage.
- My invention stems from the fundamental discovery that in the cold waving of hair it is unnecessary that the disruption of the disulphide linkages in the hair keratin by the hair-reducing agent and the development of the wave by plastic flow proceed concomitantly, as previously supposed. In other words, I have found that it is possible to develop the wave essentially as a second step following substantially complete arrestment of the chemical action. And I have further found that when this is done, satisfactory wave results can only be achieved if restoration of the disulphide linkages is brought about gradually by simple aerial oxidation rather than efiected rapidly through employemnt of a neutralizing solution.
- the reducing chemical is applied to the hair as before, but it is left on the hair in full strength for substantially less time-seldom, if ever, for more than half the time previoustly considered necessary for home waving. Thereafter, and before full development of the final wave the solution is diluted in situ on the hair, which may be wound or curledeither on rods or in a pin-curl configuration, the degree of dilution being such as to preclude further substantial reducing or chemical action of the reducing chemical on the hair.
- the hair with the diluted solution thereon is maintained on the curling rods or in the pin-curl configuration through a period of time sufficientto fully develop the wave and to insure substantially complete restoration of the normal disulphide linkages through aerial oxidation, the wound hair during this period being kept adequately open to the atmosphere.
- the hair is unwound and, if it is not already dry, wrapped into pin curls for any desired style.
- My invention is novel not only in concept but also in terms of the waving results it affords, which are generally superior to those obtained by prior methods. It is important as emphasizing the difierence between the earlier processes and the process herein that an acceptable wave is not produced when the old processes are practiced without employment of a neutralizing solution or when in the practice of my process the hair is subjected to the action of a neutralizing solution prior to substantial aerial oxidation of the hair. Whereas in the earlier processes essentially all of the necessary plastic flow occurs while the reducing solution is on the hair in full strength, in my process the plastic flow occurs, for the most part, after most of the reducing agent has been removed.
- solutions of other hair-reducing agents may be used in the practice of my invention, I prefer to use an alkaline solution of a mercaptan. Especially good results have been attained using an aqueous alkaline solution of ammonium thioglycolate.
- concentration of the ammonium thioglycolate in the solution and the pH thereof will vary depending on the Waving characteristics of the particular hair, i. e., the ease with which the hair may be waved, the diameter of the hair shafts, whether the hair has been dyed or bleached, etc.
- the solution is made 0.5 to 0.8 N in respect of the ammonium thioglycolate and its pH is so adjusted with ammonia that it lies within the range 9 to 9.5.
- mercaptans or thiols applicable to the invention may be mentioned: the various amides of thioglycolic acid, amines such as fl-thioethylamine, hydrox mercaptans as ii-hydroxyethanethiol, mercaptans containing ketone, ether or ester groups, e. g., monothiodimethyl ketone, c-mon'othiodiethylether, ethyl thioglycolate, etc., and mercaptans containing sulphonic acid groups such as mercaptoethanesulphonic acid and 3-mercapto-2-hydroxypropanesulphonic acid.
- amines such as fl-thioethylamine
- hydrox mercaptans as ii-hydroxyethanethiol
- mercaptans containing ketone, ether or ester groups e. g., monothiodimethyl ketone,
- the reducing solutions employed according to the invention generally include, in addition to the hair-reducing chemical, a perfume, a wetting agent, and normally an agent serving to render the solution opaque, with improvement of its appearance. If desired, the solution may further contain a urea compound and/or an ammonium salt.
- the solution is applied both before and after the hair is wound.
- Curlers when used, may have any suitable form, but are best manufactured of a material resistant to the action of the solution.
- Flexible curlers ar obviously advantageous from the standpoint of comfort where the individual receiving the wave proposes to allow the hair to oxidize slowly overnight following the dilution step. Drying time may be reduced by blotting each curl, as with a towel, immediately after the dilution.
- the development of the wave and the oxidation process are normally complete in from 2 to 3% hours, but it is recommended that the hair be left in the Wound condition following the dilution step for not less than 4 hours.
- the hair may be sufiiciently damp that it can be unwound and Wrapped into pin curls without rewetting. If rewetting is necessary, the hair can be moistened either before or after it is unwrapped. Satisfactory results are assured in substantially any case if the hair is allowed to go to complete dryness while in the wound form.
- the total time elapsing before the hair is completely dr is determined by the ambient temperature and relative humidity, the thickness of the hair and by the nature of th curls, i. e., the more open the curl the faster the drying time.
- the length of the working period between application of the reducing solution and its dilution in situ on the wound hair is determined primarily by the strength of the solution and the character of the hair. In general, the stronger the solution, the shorter the period of time necessary for processing prior to dilution. As previously indicated, an advantage of my process resides in the fact that the stronger lotions may be used relatively more safely.
- ammonium thioglycolate solutions of the characteristics previously indicated the working period may vary from 10 minutes to 30 minutes. Usually the solution is applied to the hair both before and after the hair has been wound into the desired configuration.
- the purpose of the dilution of the solution on expiration of the working period is to avoid any further significant chemical action.
- the dilution is efiected by means of a conventional bathroom spray, although pitchers of water may be poured through the curls if a spray is not available or the head may be held under a faucet.
- Optimum results are generally achieved if the degree of dilution is equivalent to that resulting when the head is kept under a spray for about thirty seconds to one minute, but this period is not critical.
- the hair is waved in the form of pin curls, with or without the use of devices aiding in the formation of such curls, the hair is styled as well as waved in one operation.
- EXAMPLE 1 Test tresses of natural hair cut from representative subjects were shampooed, rinsed, towel blotted to remove excess moisture, and treated with a lotion of the following composition:
- Ammonium thioglycolate 0.5 N Excess ammonium hydroxide 0.5 N. (sufiicient to give pH of 9.4).
- a commercial neutralizer solution sodium perborate
- the tresses were rewetted and tested for strength of curl imparted, the test being repeated in each case after repeated shampooing.
- the results were as follows:
- the 20% index is a ratio of the amount of energy required to stretch an individual hair 20% after the wave compared to that required to stretch the hair the same amount prior to the wave and serves, with the cystineanalysis, as a measure of fiber modification.
- EXAMPLE 2 The hair was shampooed in the usual manner and rubbed with a towel to remove excess moisture.
- An aqueous waving lotion of the following composition was used:
- Tresses of the hair were moistened with the lotion and wrapped on rods using conventional end papers. After the head was wrapped, each of the curls was re-saturated with lotion. The lotion was allowed to work for 15 minutes. The hair was then held under a spray for thirty seconds. Excess moisture was removed by blotting the hair with a'dry towel, and the curls allowed to dry. After drying the hair was unwound and the curls were combed and brushed. Alternatively, depending on the hair style required, the hair may be wet out, wrapped in pin curls with water, and styled as desired.
- Ammonium thioglycolate 0.7 N Excess ammonium hydroxide 0.5 N (sufflcient to give pH of 9.15).
- the hair was shampooed in the usual manner and rubbed with a towel to remove excess moisture. Tresses of the hair were then moistened with the lotion and wrapped into pin curls using the fingers. If desired, any type of pin-curling gadget, of which many are available, may be used. After all of the curls were wrapped and pinned, they were re-saturated with the waving lotion. The hair was allowed to process for about 25 minutes, then held under a spray as before and towel blotted. After the hair was dried, it was combed out and brushed. In this manner, the hair is waved and styled in one operation.
- the lotion in this case contained only ammonium thioglycolate and ammonium hydroxide, the latter in an amount suificient to give a pH of 9.6.
- the lotion was 0.5 normal in point of the ammonium thioglycolate.
- the lotion was left on the hair (wrapped on conventional curlers) in full strength for 20 minutes, whereafter the'hair was rinsed and allowed to dry for 5 hours before it was unwrapped. An excellent wave resulted.
- EXAMPLE 6 The following lotion was used in the waving of bleached hair: 0.4 N ammonium thioglycolate 0.3 N ammonium sulphate Ammonium hydroxide to pH 9.1
- the processing time was minutes, while the hair after dilution of the lotion was allowed to remain on the rods for 6 hours before being unwrapped.
- An acceptable wave was achieved without any noticeable hair damage, such as caused by conventional lotions.
- salicylate Ammonium hydroxide to pH 9.55 Process for minutes, rinse, dry.
- EXAMPLE 8 A lotion especially adapted for the waving of childrens hair has the following composition:
- This lotion should be left on the hair in full strength for about 35 minutes before dilution. If conventional rods are used and the resultant hair curls are tighter than desired, the same may be wet out and the hair set in pin curls.
- Method of imparting a permanent wave to human hair comprising applying to the hair a solution of a chemical agent capable of splitting the disulfide linkages in hair keratin, permitting the solution to act on the hair with the latter in wound curled condition to split said linkages and soften the hair, diluting the solution in situ on the wound curled hair prior to full development of the final wave to preclude further substantial chemical action of the agent on the curled hair, maintaining the hair in wound form before full development of the wave for a period of time sufficient to insure substantial aerial oxidation of the hair and to further and fully develop the wave, and when the wave is fully permanent and in final form, unwinding the hair.
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Priority Applications (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
BE511176D BE511176A (xx) | 1951-11-20 | ||
US257433A US2688972A (en) | 1951-11-20 | 1951-11-20 | Process for permanently waving human hair |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
US257433A US2688972A (en) | 1951-11-20 | 1951-11-20 | Process for permanently waving human hair |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
US2688972A true US2688972A (en) | 1954-09-14 |
Family
ID=22976289
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
US257433A Expired - Lifetime US2688972A (en) | 1951-11-20 | 1951-11-20 | Process for permanently waving human hair |
Country Status (2)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US2688972A (xx) |
BE (1) | BE511176A (xx) |
Cited By (10)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US2832357A (en) * | 1955-03-14 | 1958-04-29 | Richard Hudnut | End paper containing lanolin and polyoxyethylene sorbitol lanolin derivative |
US2839066A (en) * | 1955-02-11 | 1958-06-17 | Procter & Gamble | End wrap impregnated with a fatty acid ester of a polyhydric alcohol |
US2991790A (en) * | 1958-05-28 | 1961-07-11 | Bonilla Antonio | Method of cold waving hair and product therefor |
US3025218A (en) * | 1958-11-06 | 1962-03-13 | Turner Hall Corp | Permanent waving of hair on the human head |
US3063908A (en) * | 1958-05-29 | 1962-11-13 | Oreal | Process for permanent deformation of hair |
DE1229980B (de) * | 1960-08-30 | 1966-12-08 | Schwarzkopf Fa Hans | Dauerwellverfahren |
US4600028A (en) * | 1983-08-29 | 1986-07-15 | Zotos International Inc. | Saturated end wrap construction and composition |
US4798722A (en) * | 1986-11-12 | 1989-01-17 | Zotos International, Inc. | Permanent waving composition |
US5093113A (en) * | 1990-02-07 | 1992-03-03 | Shiseido Co., Ltd. | Multi-phase permanent waving composition |
US5121762A (en) * | 1990-07-16 | 1992-06-16 | Inno/Genics, Inc. | Water soluble end wrap and method of use |
Families Citing this family (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
DE1067566B (de) * | 1955-07-12 | 1959-10-22 | Johannes Saphir | Verfahren zur Herstellung haltbarer Frisuren |
Citations (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US2405166A (en) * | 1942-02-11 | 1946-08-06 | Raymond Lab Inc | Process for waving hair |
US2479382A (en) * | 1945-12-18 | 1949-08-16 | Samuel O Ronk | Emulsifier and emulsified hairwaving composition |
US2540980A (en) * | 1946-10-16 | 1951-02-06 | Raymond Lab Inc | Process and composition for treating keratinous material |
US2577710A (en) * | 1941-06-16 | 1951-12-04 | Procter & Gamble | Permanent waving compositions and methods |
-
0
- BE BE511176D patent/BE511176A/xx unknown
-
1951
- 1951-11-20 US US257433A patent/US2688972A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
Patent Citations (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US2577710A (en) * | 1941-06-16 | 1951-12-04 | Procter & Gamble | Permanent waving compositions and methods |
US2405166A (en) * | 1942-02-11 | 1946-08-06 | Raymond Lab Inc | Process for waving hair |
US2479382A (en) * | 1945-12-18 | 1949-08-16 | Samuel O Ronk | Emulsifier and emulsified hairwaving composition |
US2540980A (en) * | 1946-10-16 | 1951-02-06 | Raymond Lab Inc | Process and composition for treating keratinous material |
Cited By (10)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US2839066A (en) * | 1955-02-11 | 1958-06-17 | Procter & Gamble | End wrap impregnated with a fatty acid ester of a polyhydric alcohol |
US2832357A (en) * | 1955-03-14 | 1958-04-29 | Richard Hudnut | End paper containing lanolin and polyoxyethylene sorbitol lanolin derivative |
US2991790A (en) * | 1958-05-28 | 1961-07-11 | Bonilla Antonio | Method of cold waving hair and product therefor |
US3063908A (en) * | 1958-05-29 | 1962-11-13 | Oreal | Process for permanent deformation of hair |
US3025218A (en) * | 1958-11-06 | 1962-03-13 | Turner Hall Corp | Permanent waving of hair on the human head |
DE1229980B (de) * | 1960-08-30 | 1966-12-08 | Schwarzkopf Fa Hans | Dauerwellverfahren |
US4600028A (en) * | 1983-08-29 | 1986-07-15 | Zotos International Inc. | Saturated end wrap construction and composition |
US4798722A (en) * | 1986-11-12 | 1989-01-17 | Zotos International, Inc. | Permanent waving composition |
US5093113A (en) * | 1990-02-07 | 1992-03-03 | Shiseido Co., Ltd. | Multi-phase permanent waving composition |
US5121762A (en) * | 1990-07-16 | 1992-06-16 | Inno/Genics, Inc. | Water soluble end wrap and method of use |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
BE511176A (xx) |
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