US251963A - Chart for drafting ladiesj and children s garments - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.) I

M. A. START.

CHART FOR DRAPTING LADIES AND GHILDRBNS GARMENTLS. 10.251,963. Patented Jam-3,1882.

'Wmum mww A digi/@WMM wy 2,

uns. 4mmm-umagnpher. washing n. c

rUNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE. i

. l MAY Leraar, on CHEROKEE, Iowa,V

CHART FOR DRAFTiNe. L ;Aoli-:sJ AND eHlLiJRiaris'eARNiizti'rs'.`

`SPECIIIFICA'EIOII' formingpart of Letters Patent` No..`251,963, dated January, 1882.

x Application filed Angust20,188l. (No model.)

` To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, MAY A. START, of Cherokee, in the county ofl Cherokee and State of i Iowa, have invented an Improved Set of Dress Charts, of which the following is a specification. y i

The object of my invention `is to facilitate the drafting and cutting and improve the forms and the iitting of ladies7 and childrens `garments.-

Heretofore three or more charts of various forms have been' used;` but my invention is nevertheless novel and advantageous.`

It consists in forming a completevset of charts in threepieces adapted to be unitarily used, as hereinafter fully 'set forth.

Figure 1 of mydrawings represents chart i No. 1 of `myset-twenty-two inches long and u fourteen` wide at its upper portion. It has a concave and curved edge at its front and up- 1 per corner to produce the form required to itto the neck ot' the person. 'au are correspending and parallel lines of perforations, to

garments for adults or large persons.

be used in marking out the patterns for high or'lownecked childrens dresses. b b are correspondin g lines of perforations below the lines a, tobe used -lfor drafting high 'or low necked 0n the front andV straight edge, extending downward fro'mthe lines of perforations b, is an inch-measure, printed or otherwise permanently xed. Along the top and convex edge is a shoulderscale. A B C are correspondingscales and lines of perforations, extending diagonally1` and in nearly parallel position relative to each other 'downward and` rearward from the front and upper portion of the chart.` d d is a childs arm-size,.for1ned of a curved line of slots and perforations. ec is a corresponding arm-size forladults.. Both of lthese arm-sizes are adapted for drafting that portion of the front of a dress Y to which the sleeve is to be attached. f f and g g are arm-sizes adaptedfor shapin g that porfront portions rearwardtoward the bottom of tion of the back of a dress to which `the sleeve is joined. D is a scale, extendingalong the straight'and lower edge ofthe chart from'the the concaverear side of the chart.

Fig. 2 represents my No.2 chart ordartpiece, adapted to be used,in combination with the chart No. 1, in shaping the front and-back and skirt ot' dress. E is a scale .on its front and straight edge` and `lower portion. `(i is a scale on the upper end of the convex portion of the rear edge. h h. h are parallel slots at the upper end of the scale G. c' i t" are corresponding slots on the frontedg'e, in parallel position with the slots h. lo k'represent a series of perforations in the front and lower portion, formed in a straight lineparallel with the scale E. l l are perfo-rations in rear` ofthe top portion of -the line of perforations 7c. on m are perforations in line with the perforations Z, at some distance below, and, together with the perforations'l, form an inclined line relative to the straight line of perforations 7c. u n represent a line of perforations in the pointed top end.

Fig. 3 represents the No. 3 chart of my completeset, and is shaped likean upper sleeve. It has a line of periorations, o o,.extcnding at right angles relative to the elbow-point. P is A an arm-size, composed of a curved line of slots and perforations adapted for shaping the upper end of theunder sleeve. Anr, r,`and r are lines of perforations that 'converge i'romth'e upper end of the sleeve or chartdownward toward V the center. '8,8, and s are lines of perforations that converge from the lower t end upward toward the central portion of the chart.

In the .practical use of my set of charts thus formed of paper-board, or `any other suitable material, it is necessary torst obtain the size of a person for whom a garment is to be drafted and cut by actual measurement, as follows:

For cutting a waist; `rst, around the bust immediately under the arms; second, around the waist; third, from most prominent bonein the back of the neck to bottom of waist; fourth,

from the most prominent bone in front of neck to the bottom ,of the waist. y g

For cutting a skirt: tirst,around the waist; second, around the hips; third, thefdesired length of the skirt.

, For a sleeve: `rst, under theIA armto they IOO neck I form the neck by means of the sccond row ofpert'orations, b,- for a high neck, the first, or highest row. If the bust measure, for eX- ample, is thirty-six inches, I mark the point on the cloth indicated by the ligures 36 in the shoulder-scale. I neXt'ma-rk the point 36 in the sca-le A to obtainthe location of the under arm-seam. I then adjust the chart and lay the front arm-size e e on the mark made at 36 on the shoulder-scale, and also on the mark made at 36 on the scale A,in such a manner that the ends of the arm-size will extend equal distances and in opposite directions from each one kof the two dots or marks, and draw a curved Afing the straight edge even with the goods.

Marking the size of darton the waist-line,

j put the linethat is drawn crosswise of the dartpiece and over with the waist-line; mark the size of dart on Vbottom ot' waist; then line it Afrom bottoln- ,of waist to bust-dot and from the bottom of waist to the dot below the waist;

form the back dart the same, excepting slanty ing it in a little, drawing a straight line down to waist from the dot under the arm; mark the A under arm-dart half-way between the'back dart and. the linejnst madeunder the arm. I make the under arm-dart two-thirds as large as the front darts; mark it the same size at the top as at the bottom; allow the width ofthe dart on the under arln-seamvand a seam besides. y

I mark out or drattthe skirt of a basque the saine as for a skirt.-

To cut the-back ot' a waist I lay the chart N o. l lengthwise upon the goods; observe the perforations a and b for high or low neck; follow down the scale B (third line of figures from top of the chart) until I come to the bust-` measure 36, and there mark the shoulder-` pont. Then I make a mark at 36 for thel un- I der arm-seam; mark the shoulder by putting it opposite from thefront; then take the back arm-size,.g g, lay it on the shoulder-dot and under arm-dot; leave both ends of the armsize the same distance from each dot. Imeas` ure the length of waistwith inch-measure and draw a straight line from waist-line. I lay the chart three inches from the neck and make one- Iinch taper; put the bottom of, the chart even with the line just made and the Waist-line; follow the last row of figures on the bottom of the chart (scale D) until I come to the waist measure, mark, or number; put the straight edgev 'of the chart even with the dot under thearm and waist measure and mark.

YTo vget the shoulder form, have the fseam one-third from neck and two-thirds from point ofshoulder, one-third from back seam,.and twothirds from under arm-seam. To have-the seam go to arm-size one-third from the top under arm-seam and twothirds from point of shoulder, one-thirdv from back seam, and twothirds from the under arm, form fona sack onehalf between the under arm and back seam. I mark it with the back arm form, allowing for seams.

To cut the upper half of sleeve I lay the sleeve-chart (No, 3) so as to have the. front side straight with the goods; take the size ot' the sleeve and mark in the perforation both at the top and bottom of the chart; lay the front side ot' the chart even with'the front dots; measure the length of the sleeve with the inch-measure on the inside of the sleeve leave the same .distance at the top as at the bottom; layA the back of the sleeve-chart on the dots, leaving the same distance at the top as bottom; lay the top of charts even with the dots; leave the same distance at each side of chart.

To cut the under side`ot` sleeve I lay the chart the same as the top, except mark the inside row of perforations at top, bottom, and the elbow; allow for seam. To cut the front gore of skirt I take thev dart-piece, (chart No. 2,) and lay the broad end even with the goods; followthe ligures until I come to the waist-measure; take the measure of the hips; put it even with the waist-line; keep the broad end crosswise'of the goods; mark IOO ldown to the bottom of the dart-piece; take the straight side and. mark down? the bottom of the skirt.; hollow out the front gore from one-fourth to one-half inch. To cut the -side gore put the perforation on the straight edge of the goods, keeping the broad end crosswise ot' the goods; put the broad end on the line just made, and follow the line of figures till I come to the bust-measure; take the hip-measure and lay it on the mark just made; keep the broad end crossw-ise of the goods and markdown to the bottom of theskirt; hollow from one-fourth to one-half inch; allow for seams,

and commence at the top to baste.

Well-shaped andgood-tting garments may be thus readily drafted by means of my set of charts for young and old, large and small, perspons, by iirstobtaining the several measures, as before stated, and then applying them vas statedin the example given.

I claim as my invention- 1. In a set of dress-charts, the part No.1, having lines ofperforations a b d e, scalesA,

tially as shownv and described, for the purposes specified.

2. In a set of dress-charts, the part No.2,

having scales E and G, parallel slots h ,andv t,

and lines of pert'orations la Z m n, substantiallyas shown and described, for the purposes specied.

3.' Ina set of dress-charts, theipartlNorS,

IIO

having arm-size P and lines of `perfcrations o 0^ s, substantially as shown and described, for the purposes specied. i

4. The set 0f charts consisting of the form 5 No. 1, having lines of perfor-ations a b d e, scales A,B, C, and D, and arm-size f and g, the form` No. 2, having scales E and G, parallel slots l1l and t', and lines of perforations k Z m n,

and Jthe form- No. 3, having an arm-size, P, and 'lines of perforations o i s, substantially Io as shown and described, to be unitarly used for drafting garments, in the manner set forth.

- MISS MAY A. START.

Witnesses:

S. S. START, Mrs J. P-. HOWE.

Images