US2414673A - Garment cutting machine - Google Patents

Garment cutting machine Download PDF

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US2414673A
US2414673A US410366A US41036641A US2414673A US 2414673 A US2414673 A US 2414673A US 410366 A US410366 A US 410366A US 41036641 A US41036641 A US 41036641A US 2414673 A US2414673 A US 2414673A
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garment
cutting
shaft
disposed
cutters
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US410366A
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Sheer Solomon
Ginsburg Victor
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TEX MACHINE Corp
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TEX MACHINE CORP
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H9/00Devices or methods for trimming, levelling or straightening the hems of garments

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  • This invention relates to an apparatus for trimming the nether edge of feminine garments, such as dresses, skirts and the like.
  • the primary and general object of our invention is the provision of a highly improved apparatus of the character described which may be employed on garments of all types and materials. It is a more particular object of my invention to provide a device which will consistently trim garments to a substantially straight edge in the shortest possible time and with a minimum of eifort.
  • Certain objects of our invention relate to the dress cutting and handling apparatus and are to provide a, mechanism of this character which may be manipulated by unskilled labor, which is completely power driven, which requires no initial manipulation on the part of the operator other than moving of a starting lever, which automatically feeds fabric to the cutter at the proper rate for trimming along a substantially straight edge, and which automatically maintains keen cutting edges.
  • Another object of our invention is to provide improved apparatus for disposing a garment in proper relationship to the cutter.
  • it is more particularly an object of my invention to permit the use of readily interchangeable garment forms, to facilitate the adjustment of the garment neckline relative to the cutter and to prevent this adjustment from being unintentionally disturbed.
  • a further object of our invention is to pro vide a garment trimming machine which is rugged in construction, simple and reliable in operation, and highly eflicient for the purposes set forth.
  • the invention accordingly consists in the fea-v tures of construction, combinations of elements, and arrangement of parts which will be exemplified in the construction hereinafter described, and of which the scope of application will be indicated in the claims.
  • Fig. 1 is a front elevational view in partial section of a garment trimming machine embodying my invention, with the various elements thereof arranged in inoperative position;
  • Figs. .2 and 3 are sectional views taken along the lines 2-2 and 3-3 respectively of Fig. 1;
  • Fig. 4 is a sectional View taken along the line 44 of Fig. 2;
  • Fig. 5 is a sectional view taken along the line 5-5 of Fig. 2, but illustrating the various parts thereof in operative position;
  • Fig. 6 is a sectional view taken along the line 6-6 of Fig. 5;
  • Fig. '7 is an enlarged sectional view of the cutting blades taken substantially along the line 1-1 of Fig. 5;
  • Fig. 8 is a sectional view taken along the line 8-8 of Fig. 7, being explanatory of the means employed to automatically maintain the cutting blades sharpened;
  • Fig. 9 is an enlarged sectional view taken along the line 9-9 of Fig. 6, showing in detail the mechanism employed to set the length of the trimmed dress and to permit the use of interchangeable garment forms.
  • ill denotes a garment trimming machine embodying our invention and basically comprising a source of power A, a revolvable garment supporting means 13, a pair of revolvable cutters C which. can be moved towards and away from an operative position where their axes are fixed relative to the dress holding means, a fabric feeding mechanism D which is also adapted to be moved -to wards and away from operative position, and a control E which, upon actuation, simultaneously renders the dress holding means, the cutter blades and the feeding means operative and disposes the cutter and feeding means in operative position.
  • the source of power A comprises a motor M (see Figs. 3 and 5) supported on a hollow base H- Said motor may be of the type having an internal reduction .drive housed in an end cas ing l2 and from which extends a vertical drive shaft 13 carrying a pinion gear M.
  • the gear I4 meshes with a large spur gear i5 mounted on a shaft l6 from which all of the several rotating parts are driven.
  • Said shaft is suitably journalled in the top wall of the base II and has fixed thereon a gear I! and sheave l8 for actuating the fabric feeding mechanism D and garment supporting means B respectively.
  • the garment supporting means may comprise a hollow steel shaft 23 (Fig. 5) which is journalled in a vertically disposed bearing 24 integral with the base H.
  • a step bearing 25 which rotatably supports a collar 23 held by a set screw 2'! (Fig. 1) to the shaft 23.
  • a large sheave 28 whose upper surface is disposed in sliding contact with the lower face of the bearing 24. Power for rotating the shaft 23 is supplied by a cable 29 interconnecting the sheaves 28 and I8.
  • a fitting 3! Fixed by a bolt 30 to the upper end of the shaft 23 for rotation therewith is a fitting 3! (see Figs. 5, 6 and 9) which is adapted to regulate the vertical position of the garment supporting means so as to vary the distance between the neckline of a garment and the cutters C.
  • Said fitting comprises a vertical barrel 32 which is telescopically received on the upper end of the shaft 23. Integrally formed with said barrel is a horizontal barrel 33 whose longitudinal axis is slightly offset with respect to the longitudinal axis of the barrel 32.
  • the barrel 33 has fitted therein a bushing 34 in which is journalled the enlarged portion 35 of a crank shaft 36.
  • Adjacent said enlarged portion 35 is a pinion 31 which is disposed partially within the barrel 33 and partially within the barrel 32 where it meshes with a long rack gear 38 formed in one face of an elongated vertical measuring rod 39 slidably received in the shaft 23.
  • Suitable markings N are provided along one of the faces of the measuring rod 39, which cooperate with a pointer (hereinafter described) to indicate the distance between the neckline of the garment G and the cutters C in any adjusted position. If desired, additional markings N may be provided on another face of the rod for cooperation with another pointer to indicate the distance between the waist line of a skirt and the cutters.
  • Means may also be provided to connect the form 40 to the vertically adjustable rod 39 in such manner as to allow ready interchangeability of forms and to cause rotation of the form with the rod.
  • the top portion of the rod 39 is rounded into a cylindrical pillar 33 (Fig. 9) whose upper end is tapered, as indicated at 41.
  • Pinned to the base of the pillar is a large disc 48 which is recessed at 49 to form an annular raised surface 50.
  • a vertically disposed open-ended tubular member 53 which snugly receives the circular pillar 56.
  • the lower end 54 of the tube 53 is preferably flared out, as shown in Fig. 5, to facilitate mounting of the said form upon the measuring rod.
  • a cutting rest 55 which is adapted to cooperate with the fabric feeding means D during the cutting operation.
  • Saidrest 55 may be in the form of a short cylinder fabricated from light gauge metal and connected by a plurality of spider arms 56 to a hub 51 on the shaft 23 between the fitting 3
  • a ke 57a rotates the hub 51 with the shaft 23.
  • the diameter of the rest 55 should be at least substantially equal to the maximum dimension of the lower portion of the garment holding form 4-3, and in the form of our invention herein described we have shown said rest as being of a diameter but slightly larger than the width of the said form. If the machine is to be used wholly to trim garments which are very full in the skirt portion, a rest having a larger diameter may be employed. However, it will be seen as the description proceeds that our novel garment trimming machine will trim the skirt portion along a substantially straight line regardless of the fullness of the skirt.
  • the top of the rest is covered in any suitable manner, as by a plurality of integral conical sections 59 and 63 which conceal the fitting 3
  • One of the sections 59 has holes GI and 62 'to permit the shafts 3B and 44 to extend externally of the said cover to a position where they may be readily manipulated.
  • Pointers 63 and 64 are marked on the surface of the section for cooperation with the measuring numerals N and N.
  • the cutters C are preferably constructed, according to our invention, so that they are disposed in non-operative position relative to the a garment at all times save during actual trimwing, and thus permit free manipulation of the garment G on the form 40 before the garment is rotated during trimming. Said cutters are also so designed that they will sever a plurality of layers of the heaviest fabric likely to be employed in a dress or coat as soon as the fabric comes into contact with the cutters and without causing any fabric to back up in front of the blades.
  • the cutters C may comprise a pair of circular cutting discste and carried in a housing 61. Said discs are mounted so as to be'constantly disposed in cutting relationship to each other, the lower blade at being beveled downwardly and the upper blade 55 being beveled upwardly.
  • Means is provided to enable the blades to be simultaneously vertically moved toward and away from the horizontal plane wherein cutting is performed.
  • Such means comprises a shaft 68 (Fig. 5) on. which the upper cutting blade is fixedly mounted.
  • the said shaft 53 is journalled in a vertical bearing forming part of the cutter casing ill, and extends below the hear ing to the pedestal M where the lower end. of the shaft is received "in another journal ill.
  • a gear H, in mesh with the gear E5 is provided on the shaft til adjacent the bearing ill, said gear H having an elongated slot therethrough which slidingly receives a key '53 disposed longitudinally of the shaft
  • the shaft 68 is maintained in fixed position relative to the cutter housing f3?
  • the cutter blades 55 and fit and their riving mechanism above described are preferably so arranged that they will automatically maintain a keen cutting edge, and to this end we provide the following construction:
  • the shaft 63 is disnosed vertica ly while the shaft 12 on which t e cu ter b ade 56 is sup ported is disposed slig tly inclined from the vertic l. best seen in Fig. 8 wherein the angular offset of the said shaft if! is exaggerated.
  • the bevel gear 77 is mounted on the axle it with a sliding key-and-slot connection shown in Fig. 8) to permit vertical displacement of the axle 78 as the edges of the circular blades wear down.
  • Such means may comprise a guard wall 8.5 which surrounds the major portion of the periphery of the cutting blade lit and which is capped by a cover plate 85.
  • a felt 8.! bridges the open sector of the guard wall, said felt being slitted to permit the cutting portion of the blade 55 to project therethrough.
  • a felt as associated with the other cutter blade -55 is mounted directly upon a horizontal web 88 of the cutter casing El, said felt being in the form of a strip t9 underlying and contacting a major portion of the periphery of the blade 65.
  • the cutting portion of the blade t5 extends beyond the felt 88 and is thus left clear.
  • conventional oil drips may be associated with each of the felts ill and S9.
  • the cutter blade this provided with a sheet metal guard c bolted to the web 88.
  • the point of contact 0 between the two blades t5 and it at which the cutting takes place should be disposed, when the cutters'are fin operative position, below and slightly outwardly of the periphery of the cutting rest 55, and we prefer to have the cutters vertically translatable to and away from their point of cutting rather than to have the blades simultaneously move outwardly along a horizontal plane, or to have the blades separated from each other. In this manner, a garment may be readily draped when the cutters are in operative position, yet the cutter blades are permanently maintained in cutting align ment.
  • novel means for feeding the dress fabric to and past the cutters C said means being so constructed and arranged that it will cause the fabric of dresses of all fullnesses to move past the cutting point 0 of the cutters C at an angular speed substantially equal to that at which the form to is rotated; and in this manner we are able to trim the nether portion of a garment along a substantially straight line.
  • Such means comprises two belts Iill and '31 which respectively serve to gather up the fabric and urge the gathcred fabric to and past the cutters C.
  • the belt cc shown in operative position in Fig. 6, is so disposed as to engage portions of the garment ahead of the cutters C.
  • the linear speed of this belt is greater than the linear speed of the cut ter rest 55 and the belt is disposed on an angle thereto so that fabric at the bottom of the dress which comes into contact with the belt 98 is urged towards the belt 3i.
  • the garment skirt is slightly full, as shown in Fig. 6, while the form so is moving the garment G towards the cutter, this slight fullness of the portion of the g rment about to be cut is gathered up into folds or corrugations by the belt
  • the belt is angularly disposed with respect to the rest Blithe additional material forming the fullness of the remaining portion of the skirt will not be forced towards the cut ter.
  • the garment material After the garment material leaves the belt til, it is taken up by the belt f ll which moves t substantially the same linear speed as the "rest 55.
  • the belt 91 is so disposed as to lie substan-- tially tangent to or to rest with a light pressure against the rest 55 above the cutting point 0.
  • the golfered or pleated garment material which is fed towards the cutters C by the belt Bil is caused to move past the said cutters a uniform angular speed by the belt 95. This ac tion results in trimming the dress along a substantially straight'line.
  • a shaft 92 is journaled in the base I I and carries a sheave 03 at the lower end of said shaft extending into the hollow portion of the pedestal.
  • This sheave is connected by a cable 9 to an other sheave 95 which is fixed to a shaft on which there is carried a gear 96 meshing with the gear I! on the power shaft I6.
  • Mounted for rotation with the shaft 92 is a crownpulley 91 on which the belt 9
  • the pulleys 68, 90 and 500 are all supported on a bracket I6I which is rotatably mounted on the shaft 92 and which is maintained in fixed vertical position thereon by a collar I02. Motion is transmitted from the pulley 98 to the pulley 09 by pulleys I63 and I mounted for rotation with the pulleys 93 and 99 and interconnected by a cable I05.
  • the pulley I03 is made larger than the pulley I04.
  • any standard construction as for example the ball-and-socket joint shown in Fig. 6.
  • the other end of the said link II! is connected by a similar ball-and-socket joint to the frame IOI so that when the lever I06 is disposed in the dotted line position (shown in Fig. 1) the frame IOI together with the belts 90 and 9
  • the kinematic linkage which switches on and off the power for the motor M comprises a clevis fitting I I8 pivotally supported on the arm I08 and having along rod I I9 rigidly mounted on its base. This rod is connected by a light spring I22 to the switch arm I20 of a switch I2I in the electric supply circuit of the motor M.
  • the spring I22 comprises a central portion having a full helical turn and two end portions angularly disposed with respect to each other and extending out- Three kinematic linkages which are attached I to and actuated by the control lever I 06 vertically raise the cutters into operative position, swing the belts 90 and BI into operative relationship relative to the rest and supply current to the motor M, which, through the drive shaft I6, revolves the form-revolving shaft 23, cutter revolving shaft 68 and the belt-revolving shaft 92.
  • the linkage which raises the cutters C into position includes an arm I08 fixed to the control lever I66 and having pivotally mounted on its free end a link I09 pivotally attached to the horizontal web 88 of the cutter housing so that upon clockwise rotation of the lever I06, as viewed from Fig. 1, the cutter housing, carrying with it the cutter blades and 66, will be moved upwardly. Rotational or horizontal movement of said housing is prevented by a pair of guide posts III ⁇ and III fixed to the base II and slidably received in journals H2 and H3 formed in the web 68. Upward and downward motion of the casing 61 is limited by collars H4 and H5 fastened to the guide posts H0 and III.
  • comprises an arm H6 integral with the arm I08.
  • a link I I! is connected at one end to the arm II6 by a swivel joint of wardly of the helical central portion. One of these ends is rigidly fixed to the lower end of the rod H9, while the other end of the spring is provided with a hook which is freely received in a small hole at the end of the switch arm I20.
  • a garment G is first draped on the form 40 and its neckline adjusted by manipulation of the crank 43 until it is positioned in such relationship to the cutters C that it will be cut to the desired length indicated by the numerals N.
  • the clampin rod 44 is then tightened and the control lever I06 swung to operative position. This causes the cutters C to rise and shortly before they reach cutting position to rotate, It will be noted that immediately before the cutters C begin to turn the overlying portion of the garment is bunched up over the cutter blades, and said cutters, upon actuation, will slice through th s gathered material until they reach the set cutting level.
  • a garment trimming machine the com bination of means to support a garment, cutting means to trim the nether edge of said garment, means to actuate said cutting means, means to revolve said garment supporting means, means to hold said cutting means during cutting in fixed relationship to the axis of revolution of said garment supporting means to render said actuating means inoperative, and means to vertically translate said cutting means away from said garment supporting means when said actuating means is rendered inoperative.
  • a garment trimming machine the combination of means to support a garment, cutting means to trim the nether edge of said garment, means to actuate said cutting means, means to cause relative angular movement of said cutting means about said garment supporting means, and means to move the nether edge of said garment to and past said cutting means at an angular speed substantially equal to the relative angular speed of movement of said cutting means about said garment supporting means.
  • a garment trimming machine in combination means to support a garment, means to revolve said garment supporting means, a cutting station, said cutting station being disposed, when in operative position, in fixed relationship to the axis of revolution of said garment supporting means, means disposed ahead of said cutting station for moving the portion of the garment to be trimmed at an angular speed greater than the angular speed of said garment supporting means whereby to gather up the portions of said garment to be cut, and means disposed substantially at said cutting station to feed said gathered portion of said garment to and past said cutting station at an angular speed substantially equal to the angular speed of said garment supporting means.
  • a garment trimming machine in combination means to support a garment, means to revolv said garment supporting means, a cutting station, said cutting station being disposed, when in operative position, in fixed relationship to the axis of revolution of said garment supporting means, means disposed ahead of said cutting station for moving the portion of the garment to be trimmed at an angular speed greater than the angular speed of said garment supporting means whereby to gather up the portion of said garment to be cut, means disposed substantially at said cutting station to feed said gathered portion of said garment to and past said cutting stationat an angular speed substantially equal to the angular speed of said garment supporting means, a control station, and means disposed at said control station to simultaneously render operative or inoperative said means for revolving said garment supporting means, said means for moving said garment and said means for feeding said garment.
  • a garment trimming machine in combination means to support a garment, means to revolve saizl garment supporting means, a pair of cooperating circular cutter blades, means to revolve said blades in opposite directions, means to hold the axes of revolution of said cutting blades, when said blades are in operative position, in fixed relationship to the axis of revolution of said garment supporting means, and means to reciprocate said blades along their axes of revolution.
  • a garment trimming machine of the character described, in combination means to support a garment, a base, a vertically disposed hollow shaft revolvably supported in said base, means to revolve said shaft, a rack gear disposed in and projecting beyond the upper end of said shaft, a pinion meshing with said rack gear and horizontally revolvably supported on said shaft, 2. revolvable shaft associated with said pinion, and means to clamp said shaft in any desired angular position, said garment supporting means being movable with said rack gear.
  • a garment trimming machine in combination means to support a garment, a cutting station, means to cause relative revolution of said cutting station about said garment supporting means, a member disposed under said garment supporting means and substantially horizontally aligned with said cutting station, and means cooperating with said member to move portions of said garment to be cut to and past said cutting station at such speed that the said garment is trimmed to a substantially straight edge.
  • a garment trimming machine in combination means to support a garment, a circular member disposed below said garment supporting means, said circular member being of a diameter at least substantially equal to the largest lower dimension of said garment supporting means, means to revolve said garment supporting means and said member, a cutting station disposed in fixed relationship to the axis of revolution of said garment supporting means, means cooperating with said circular member to feed portions'of the garment to be trimmed to and past said cutting station at an angular speed substantially equal to the angular speed of said garment supporting means, said means comprising a belt contacting said circular member through portions of the garment being trimmed, means to move said belt at a linear speed substantially equal to the linear speed of movement of the periphery of said circular member, and means to move material to be trimmed to said feeding means, said means comprising a belt spaced away from the periphery of said circular member, and means to move said belt at a linear speed greater than the linear speed of the periphery of said circular member.

Description

Jan.2l, 1947. s. SHEER ETAL GARMENT CUTTING MACHINE Filed se 't. 11
4 Sheets-Sheet I I 9a 1b SOLOMON 674651? @4 0 VmR Gwsaune BYE TTUPNEY Jan. 21, 1947. SHEER ETAL 2,414,673
GARMENT CUTTING MACHINE Filed Sept 11, 1941 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR. 101 SoLaMo/v SHEER iwb V/cToR /usauns BY 102 g jrroe/viy Jan.21, 1947. SSHEER E AL 2,414,673-
C'ARMENT CUTTING MACHINE G SoLoMo/v 6H5R mp VICTOR @Nsauna Jan. 21, 1947., s. SHEER ETAL 2,414,673
GARMENT CUTTING MACHINE Filed Sept. 11, 1941 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 INVENT OR.
Patented Jan. 21, 1947 GARMENT CUTTING lvllACHINE Solomon Sheer, Brooklyn, and Victor Ginsburg,
Jackson Heights, N. Y., assignors to Tex Machine Gorporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application September 11, 1941,'Serial'No. 410,366
11 Claims.
This invention relates to an apparatus for trimming the nether edge of feminine garments, such as dresses, skirts and the like.
The primary and general object of our invention is the provision of a highly improved apparatus of the character described which may be employed on garments of all types and materials. It is a more particular object of my invention to provide a device which will consistently trim garments to a substantially straight edge in the shortest possible time and with a minimum of eifort.
Certain objects of our invention relate to the dress cutting and handling apparatus and are to provide a, mechanism of this character which may be manipulated by unskilled labor, which is completely power driven, which requires no initial manipulation on the part of the operator other than moving of a starting lever, which automatically feeds fabric to the cutter at the proper rate for trimming along a substantially straight edge, and which automatically maintains keen cutting edges.
Another object of our invention is to provide improved apparatus for disposing a garment in proper relationship to the cutter. In this connection, it is more particularly an object of my invention to permit the use of readily interchangeable garment forms, to facilitate the adjustment of the garment neckline relative to the cutter and to prevent this adjustment from being unintentionally disturbed.
A further object of our invention is to pro vide a garment trimming machine which is rugged in construction, simple and reliable in operation, and highly eflicient for the purposes set forth.
Other objects of this invention will in part be obvious and in part hereinafter pointed out.
The invention accordingly consists in the fea-v tures of construction, combinations of elements, and arrangement of parts which will be exemplified in the construction hereinafter described, and of which the scope of application will be indicated in the claims.
In the accompanying drawings, in which is shown one of the various possible embodiments of this invention,
Fig. 1 is a front elevational view in partial section of a garment trimming machine embodying my invention, with the various elements thereof arranged in inoperative position;
Figs. .2 and 3 are sectional views taken along the lines 2-2 and 3-3 respectively of Fig. 1;
2 i Fig. 4 is a sectional View taken along the line 44 of Fig. 2;
Fig. 5 is a sectional view taken along the line 5-5 of Fig. 2, but illustrating the various parts thereof in operative position;
Fig. 6 is a sectional view taken along the line 6-6 of Fig. 5;
Fig. '7 is an enlarged sectional view of the cutting blades taken substantially along the line 1-1 of Fig. 5;
Fig. 8 is a sectional view taken along the line 8-8 of Fig. 7, being explanatory of the means employed to automatically maintain the cutting blades sharpened; and
Fig. 9 is an enlarged sectional view taken along the line 9-9 of Fig. 6, showing in detail the mechanism employed to set the length of the trimmed dress and to permit the use of interchangeable garment forms.
Generally we accomplish the foregoing objects of our invention by providing a rotating garment form and a pair of rotating cutter blades, all of which are turned by power about fixed axes. In this manner, we avoid movement of the cutter around the dress and can so arrange our apparatus that the cutting and control stations occupy a fixed position which can be disposed so as to be most conducive to efficient operation. Also, in order to insure trimming the garment along a straight edge, regardless of the type of garment being trimmed or the nature of the fabric from which the garment is made, we provide a flexible vfeeding mechanism which bunches up the dress material and automatically feeds it to and past the cutter blades at the same angular speed at which the garment is turned.
Referring now to the drawings, ill denotes a garment trimming machine embodying our invention and basically comprising a source of power A, a revolvable garment supporting means 13, a pair of revolvable cutters C which. can be moved towards and away from an operative position where their axes are fixed relative to the dress holding means, a fabric feeding mechanism D which is also adapted to be moved -to wards and away from operative position, and a control E which, upon actuation, simultaneously renders the dress holding means, the cutter blades and the feeding means operative and disposes the cutter and feeding means in operative position.
The source of power A comprises a motor M (see Figs. 3 and 5) supported on a hollow base H- Said motor may be of the type having an internal reduction .drive housed in an end cas ing l2 and from which extends a vertical drive shaft 13 carrying a pinion gear M. The gear I4 meshes with a large spur gear i5 mounted on a shaft l6 from which all of the several rotating parts are driven. Said shaft is is suitably journalled in the top wall of the base II and has fixed thereon a gear I! and sheave l8 for actuating the fabric feeding mechanism D and garment supporting means B respectively. The
several gears disposed on the top of the base H 7 ance with our invention, is so constructed and arranged that it will revolve about a fixed axis which may be denoted asthe point 22 (see Fig. 2). For this purpose, the garment supporting means may comprise a hollow steel shaft 23 (Fig. 5) which is journalled in a vertically disposed bearing 24 integral with the base H. To pre vent vertical displacement of said shaft 23, we bolt to the top wall of the bearing 24 a step bearing 25 which rotatably supports a collar 23 held by a set screw 2'! (Fig. 1) to the shaft 23. At the lower end of the shaft 23 we mount for rotation therewith a large sheave 28 whose upper surface is disposed in sliding contact with the lower face of the bearing 24. Power for rotating the shaft 23 is supplied by a cable 29 interconnecting the sheaves 28 and I8.
Fixed by a bolt 30 to the upper end of the shaft 23 for rotation therewith is a fitting 3! (see Figs. 5, 6 and 9) which is adapted to regulate the vertical position of the garment supporting means so as to vary the distance between the neckline of a garment and the cutters C. Said fitting comprises a vertical barrel 32 which is telescopically received on the upper end of the shaft 23. Integrally formed with said barrel is a horizontal barrel 33 whose longitudinal axis is slightly offset with respect to the longitudinal axis of the barrel 32. The barrel 33 has fitted therein a bushing 34 in which is journalled the enlarged portion 35 of a crank shaft 36. Adjacent said enlarged portion 35 is a pinion 31 which is disposed partially within the barrel 33 and partially within the barrel 32 where it meshes with a long rack gear 38 formed in one face of an elongated vertical measuring rod 39 slidably received in the shaft 23.
In order to provide sufiicient bearing support for the gear 31 which normally carries an appreciable weight, including the measuring rod 39 and form 45 on which a garment G may be draped, we form an extension 4! on the shaft 35 disposed on the opposite side of the gear 31 from the enlarged portion 35, said extension being received in a bearing portion 42 cast integrally with the barrels 32 and 33. The free end of the shaft 36 is of non-circular sectional contour, for example of square shape as shown in Fig. 6, so as to slidably receive the socket of a crank 43 (Fig. 1) which can thus be employed to raise or lower the measuring rod 39 and form 43. The form 43 is held in any adjusted position by clamping means, such as a long threaded rod 43 received in a tapped horizontal barrel 45 whose axis transects and is substantially coplanar with the axis of the barrel 33.
Suitable markings N are provided along one of the faces of the measuring rod 39, which cooperate with a pointer (hereinafter described) to indicate the distance between the neckline of the garment G and the cutters C in any adjusted position. If desired, additional markings N may be provided on another face of the rod for cooperation with another pointer to indicate the distance between the waist line of a skirt and the cutters.
Means may also be provided to connect the form 40 to the vertically adjustable rod 39 in such manner as to allow ready interchangeability of forms and to cause rotation of the form with the rod. To this end, the top portion of the rod 39 is rounded into a cylindrical pillar 33 (Fig. 9) whose upper end is tapered, as indicated at 41. Pinned to the base of the pillar is a large disc 48 which is recessed at 49 to form an annular raised surface 50. A similar raised surface 5|, provided on a disc 52 which is attached to the undersurface of the form 40, cooperates with the surface 53 to create a friction slip drive between the rod 33 and form 43. Extending upwardly from the central portion of the disc 52 is a vertically disposed open-ended tubular member 53 which snugly receives the circular pillar 56. The lower end 54 of the tube 53 is preferably flared out, as shown in Fig. 5, to facilitate mounting of the said form upon the measuring rod.
Also fixed to the shaft 23 for revolution therewith is a cutting rest 55 which is adapted to cooperate with the fabric feeding means D during the cutting operation. Saidrest 55 may be in the form of a short cylinder fabricated from light gauge metal and connected by a plurality of spider arms 56 to a hub 51 on the shaft 23 between the fitting 3| and a collar 58. A ke 57a rotates the hub 51 with the shaft 23.
The diameter of the rest 55 should be at least substantially equal to the maximum dimension of the lower portion of the garment holding form 4-3, and in the form of our invention herein described we have shown said rest as being of a diameter but slightly larger than the width of the said form. If the machine is to be used wholly to trim garments which are very full in the skirt portion, a rest having a larger diameter may be employed. However, it will be seen as the description proceeds that our novel garment trimming machine will trim the skirt portion along a substantially straight line regardless of the fullness of the skirt.
The top of the rest is covered in any suitable manner, as by a plurality of integral conical sections 59 and 63 which conceal the fitting 3| and prevent dust or fabric scraps from interfering with the vertical adjusting action. One of the sections 59 has holes GI and 62 'to permit the shafts 3B and 44 to extend externally of the said cover to a position where they may be readily manipulated. Pointers 63 and 64 are marked on the surface of the section for cooperation with the measuring numerals N and N.
The cutters C are preferably constructed, according to our invention, so that they are disposed in non-operative position relative to the a garment at all times save during actual trimwing, and thus permit free manipulation of the garment G on the form 40 before the garment is rotated during trimming. Said cutters are also so designed that they will sever a plurality of layers of the heaviest fabric likely to be employed in a dress or coat as soon as the fabric comes into contact with the cutters and without causing any fabric to back up in front of the blades.
The cutters C may comprise a pair of circular cutting discste and carried in a housing 61. Said discs are mounted so as to be'constantly disposed in cutting relationship to each other, the lower blade at being beveled downwardly and the upper blade 55 being beveled upwardly.
Means is provided to enable the blades to be simultaneously vertically moved toward and away from the horizontal plane wherein cutting is performed. Such means comprises a shaft 68 (Fig. 5) on. which the upper cutting blade is fixedly mounted. The said shaft 53 is journalled in a vertical bearing forming part of the cutter casing ill, and extends below the hear ing to the pedestal M where the lower end. of the shaft is received "in another journal ill. A gear H, in mesh with the gear E5, is provided on the shaft til adjacent the bearing ill, said gear H having an elongated slot therethrough which slidingly receives a key '53 disposed longitudinally of the shaft The shaft 68 is maintained in fixed position relative to the cutter housing f3? by a bevel gear '53 whichis pinned to the shaft immediately below the bearing G9, the upper surface of said bevel gear being disposed in sliding contact with the lower face of said .jorunal. It will be seen, therefore, that when the motor M is actu ated, power will be transmitted to rotate the upper cutter blade 55 through the gear H and shaft 58, and that the vertical position of the shaft 68 and blade 55 may be varied without disturbing the said driving train.
Power is transmitted to the lower cutter blade fit through the gear train comprising bevel gear 14, shaft 75 which is journaled in a web depending from the gear housing Bl, bevel gear is, bevel gear H, and shaft '58 on which the cutter blade E55 is mounted. for rotation. For safety and to prevent jamming by fabric this driving train is concealed in a casing it carried by the cutter housing 6?.
The cutter blades 55 and fit and their riving mechanism above described are preferably so arranged that they will automatically maintain a keen cutting edge, and to this end we provide the following construction:
The shaft 63 is disnosed vertica ly while the shaft 12 on which t e cu ter b ade 56 is sup ported is disposed slig tly inclined from the vertic l. best seen in Fig. 8 wherein the angular offset of the said shaft if! is exaggerated. The
lower end of the said shaft it extends below the bevel gear H which drives the shaft and this extended portion til is recessed to provide a socket 8| in which is disposed a compression spring B2. The compression spring forces a ball-bearing 83 against a hardened plate 85 bolted to the lower end of the web in which the axle iii is journaled. In this manner it will be seen that the axle l8 and cutter blade 6 are constantly urged upwardly under resilient pressure which causes the blades and 8% to lightly press against each other at a single point of contact 0 (Fig. '7) where the rubbing of one blade against the other will automatically maintain a sharp cutting edge on both blades.
The bevel gear 77 is mounted on the axle it with a sliding key-and-slot connection shown in Fig. 8) to permit vertical displacement of the axle 78 as the edges of the circular blades wear down.
It is also desirable to provide means to keep the cutting faces of the blades 65 and 66 free from fabric scraps. Such means may comprise a guard wall 8.5 which surrounds the major portion of the periphery of the cutting blade lit and which is capped by a cover plate 85. A felt 8.! bridges the open sector of the guard wall, said felt being slitted to permit the cutting portion of the blade 55 to project therethrough.
A felt as associated with the other cutter blade -55 is mounted directly upon a horizontal web 88 of the cutter casing El, said felt being in the form of a strip t9 underlying and contacting a major portion of the periphery of the blade 65. The cutting portion of the blade t5 extends beyond the felt 88 and is thus left clear. If desired, conventional oil drips (not shown) may be associated with each of the felts ill and S9. The cutter blade this provided with a sheet metal guard c bolted to the web 88.
The point of contact 0 between the two blades t5 and it at which the cutting takes place should be disposed, when the cutters'are fin operative position, below and slightly outwardly of the periphery of the cutting rest 55, and we prefer to have the cutters vertically translatable to and away from their point of cutting rather than to have the blades simultaneously move outwardly along a horizontal plane, or to have the blades separated from each other. In this manner, a garment may be readily draped when the cutters are in operative position, yet the cutter blades are permanently maintained in cutting align ment.
Also in accordance with our invention, we provide novel means for feeding the dress fabric to and past the cutters C, said means being so constructed and arranged that it will cause the fabric of dresses of all fullnesses to move past the cutting point 0 of the cutters C at an angular speed substantially equal to that at which the form to is rotated; and in this manner we are able to trim the nether portion of a garment along a substantially straight line. Such means comprises two belts Iill and '31 which respectively serve to gather up the fabric and urge the gathcred fabric to and past the cutters C. The belt cc, shown in operative position in Fig. 6, is so disposed as to engage portions of the garment ahead of the cutters C. The linear speed of this belt is greater than the linear speed of the cut ter rest 55 and the belt is disposed on an angle thereto so that fabric at the bottom of the dress which comes into contact with the belt 98 is urged towards the belt 3i. Thus, if the garment skirt is slightly full, as shown in Fig. 6, while the form so is moving the garment G towards the cutter, this slight fullness of the portion of the g rment about to be cut is gathered up into folds or corrugations by the belt However, due to the fact that the belt is angularly disposed with respect to the rest Blithe additional material forming the fullness of the remaining portion of the skirt will not be forced towards the cut ter. After the garment material leaves the belt til, it is taken up by the belt f ll which moves t substantially the same linear speed as the "rest 55. The belt 91 is so disposed as to lie substan-- tially tangent to or to rest with a light pressure against the rest 55 above the cutting point 0. Thus, the golfered or pleated garment material which is fed towards the cutters C by the belt Bil is caused to move past the said cutters a uniform angular speed by the belt 95. This ac tion results in trimming the dress along a substantially straight'line.
To operate the belts 90 and SH in the manner above described, we provide-the following supporting and driving mechanisms:
A shaft 92 is journaled in the base I I and carries a sheave 03 at the lower end of said shaft extending into the hollow portion of the pedestal. This sheave is connected by a cable 9 to an other sheave 95 which is fixed to a shaft on which there is carried a gear 96 meshing with the gear I! on the power shaft I6. Mounted for rotation with the shaft 92 is a crownpulley 91 on which the belt 9| rides, the belt also being supported on spaced crown pulley 98. Spaced crown pulleys 09 and I carry the belt 90. The pulleys 68, 90 and 500 are all supported on a bracket I6I which is rotatably mounted on the shaft 92 and which is maintained in fixed vertical position thereon by a collar I02. Motion is transmitted from the pulley 98 to the pulley 09 by pulleys I63 and I mounted for rotation with the pulleys 93 and 99 and interconnected by a cable I05. In order to provide increased speed of travel of the belt 90, the pulley I03 is made larger than the pulley I04. Gathering of the garment fabric may be facilitated by disposing the belt 96 at a lesser angle to the rest 55 than the belt 9I It will now be seen that after a garment G has been draped on the form 40 and a suitable adjustment made to trim the said garment to a desired length, it is only necessary to cause rotation of'the shaft 23, the cutter blades 65 and 6-6, and the shaft 92 after the said blades and the belts 90 and SI driven by the shaft 92 are properly positioned. Such action is carried out substantially simultaneously, in accordance with my invention, by manipulation of a single control lever I05. Said lever is pivotally mounted on upstanding leg I01 secured to the pedestal II and preferably lined up with the cutting point 0 so that an operator of the machine may inspect the garment G as it is being trimmed.
any standard construction, as for example the ball-and-socket joint shown in Fig. 6. The other end of the said link II! is connected by a similar ball-and-socket joint to the frame IOI so that when the lever I06 is disposed in the dotted line position (shown in Fig. 1) the frame IOI together with the belts 90 and 9| will be disposed in operative position as illustrated in Figs. 5 and 6; while when the lever I06 is in the full line position shown in Fig. 1 the frame and belts will be disposed in inoperative position, as illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2.
The kinematic linkage which switches on and off the power for the motor M comprises a clevis fitting I I8 pivotally supported on the arm I08 and having along rod I I9 rigidly mounted on its base. This rod is connected by a light spring I22 to the switch arm I20 of a switch I2I in the electric supply circuit of the motor M. The spring I22 comprises a central portion having a full helical turn and two end portions angularly disposed with respect to each other and extending out- Three kinematic linkages which are attached I to and actuated by the control lever I 06 vertically raise the cutters into operative position, swing the belts 90 and BI into operative relationship relative to the rest and supply current to the motor M, which, through the drive shaft I6, revolves the form-revolving shaft 23, cutter revolving shaft 68 and the belt-revolving shaft 92.
The linkage which raises the cutters C into position includes an arm I08 fixed to the control lever I66 and having pivotally mounted on its free end a link I09 pivotally attached to the horizontal web 88 of the cutter housing so that upon clockwise rotation of the lever I06, as viewed from Fig. 1, the cutter housing, carrying with it the cutter blades and 66, will be moved upwardly. Rotational or horizontal movement of said housing is prevented by a pair of guide posts III} and III fixed to the base II and slidably received in journals H2 and H3 formed in the web 68. Upward and downward motion of the casing 61 is limited by collars H4 and H5 fastened to the guide posts H0 and III. Since the linkage beween the casing 61 and the control lever I06 is positive, the collars H4 and H5 additionally serve to limit the extreme positions of the said control lever. The operative and inoperative positions of the cutters C and their associated linkage are shown in Fig. 1 in dotted and full lines, respectively.
The linkage which swings the frame IOI carrying the belts 90 and 9| comprises an arm H6 integral with the arm I08. A link I I! is connected at one end to the arm II6 by a swivel joint of wardly of the helical central portion. One of these ends is rigidly fixed to the lower end of the rod H9, while the other end of the spring is provided with a hook which is freely received in a small hole at the end of the switch arm I20. By virtue of this construction, when the lever I06 is moved from its off position (full line) towards on position (dotted line), the arm I I9 will move almost the full extent of its travel before sufiicient force is transmitted through the spring to throw the switch arm I20 and thus the motor M will not be energized until the cutter blades C and fabric feeding mechanism D are disposed substantially in their operative position.
In the operation of our machine a garment G is first draped on the form 40 and its neckline adjusted by manipulation of the crank 43 until it is positioned in such relationship to the cutters C that it will be cut to the desired length indicated by the numerals N. The clampin rod 44 is then tightened and the control lever I06 swung to operative position. This causes the cutters C to rise and shortly before they reach cutting position to rotate, It will be noted that immediately before the cutters C begin to turn the overlying portion of the garment is bunched up over the cutter blades, and said cutters, upon actuation, will slice through th s gathered material until they reach the set cutting level. Cutting is continued until the form 40 has rotated sufficiently to re-position the cutters at the part of the lower garment edge where the cutters first reach their set level. It will be seen that because of this operation waste material falls away from the machine as a strip which can be removed without further ado. This should be contrasted with the unbroken ring of waste material hitherto resulting when mechanical trimming machines were used. These rings, when allowed to accumulate, had to be cut open before they could be removed.
It will thus be seen that there is provided a device in which the several objects of this invention are achieved, and which is well adapted to meet the conditions of practical use.
As various possible embodiments might be made of the above invention, and as various changes might be made in the embodiments above set forth, it is to be understood that all matter herein set forth or shown in the accompanying drawings is to be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.
Having thus described our invention, we claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent;
1. In a garment trimming machine the com bination of means to support a garment, cutting means to trim the nether edge of said garment, means to actuate said cutting means, means to revolve said garment supporting means, means to hold said cutting means during cutting in fixed relationship to the axis of revolution of said garment supporting means to render said actuating means inoperative, and means to vertically translate said cutting means away from said garment supporting means when said actuating means is rendered inoperative.
2. In a garment trimming machine the combination of means to support a garment, cutting means to trim the nether edge of said garment, means to actuate said cutting means, means to cause relative angular movement of said cutting means about said garment supporting means, and means to move the nether edge of said garment to and past said cutting means at an angular speed substantially equal to the relative angular speed of movement of said cutting means about said garment supporting means.
3. In a garment trimming machine of the character described, in combination means to support a garment, means to revolve said garment supporting means, a cutting station, said cutting station being disposed, when in operative position, in fixed relationship to the axis of revolution of said garment supporting means, means disposed ahead of said cutting station for moving the portion of the garment to be trimmed at an angular speed greater than the angular speed of said garment supporting means whereby to gather up the portions of said garment to be cut, and means disposed substantially at said cutting station to feed said gathered portion of said garment to and past said cutting station at an angular speed substantially equal to the angular speed of said garment supporting means.
4. In a garment trimming machine of the character described, in combination means to support a garment, means to revolv said garment supporting means, a cutting station, said cutting station being disposed, when in operative position, in fixed relationship to the axis of revolution of said garment supporting means, means disposed ahead of said cutting station for moving the portion of the garment to be trimmed at an angular speed greater than the angular speed of said garment supporting means whereby to gather up the portion of said garment to be cut, means disposed substantially at said cutting station to feed said gathered portion of said garment to and past said cutting stationat an angular speed substantially equal to the angular speed of said garment supporting means, a control station, and means disposed at said control station to simultaneously render operative or inoperative said means for revolving said garment supporting means, said means for moving said garment and said means for feeding said garment.
5. In a garment trimming machine of the character described, in combination means to support a garment, means to revolve saizl garment supporting means, a pair of cooperating circular cutter blades, means to revolve said blades in opposite directions, means to hold the axes of revolution of said cutting blades, when said blades are in operative position, in fixed relationship to the axis of revolution of said garment supporting means, and means to reciprocate said blades along their axes of revolution.
6. In a garment trimming machine of the character described, in combination means to support a garment, means to revolve said garment supporting means, a circular cutting blade, reciprocatable means to shift said blade into a plane of cutting action, and means to cause said blade to revolve as it approaches said cutting plane.
7. In a garment trimming machine of the character described, in combination means to support a garment, a cutting blade, means to cause relative revolution of said cutting blade about said garment supporting means, reciprocatable means to vertically shift said blade into a plane of cutting action, and means to actuate said blade as it approaches said cutting plane.
8. In 9, garment trimming machine of the character described, in combination a base, a vertically disposed hollow shaft revolvably supported.
in said base, means to revolve said shaft, a rack gear disposed in and projecting beyond the upper end of said shaft, a pinion meshing with said rack gear and horizontally revolvably supported on said shaft, and means to revolve said pinion.
9. In a garment trimming machine of the character described, in combination means to support a garment, a base, a vertically disposed hollow shaft revolvably supported in said base, means to revolve said shaft, a rack gear disposed in and projecting beyond the upper end of said shaft, a pinion meshing with said rack gear and horizontally revolvably supported on said shaft, 2. revolvable shaft associated with said pinion, and means to clamp said shaft in any desired angular position, said garment supporting means being movable with said rack gear.
10. In a garment trimming machine of the character described, in combination means to support a garment, a cutting station, means to cause relative revolution of said cutting station about said garment supporting means, a member disposed under said garment supporting means and substantially horizontally aligned with said cutting station, and means cooperating with said member to move portions of said garment to be cut to and past said cutting station at such speed that the said garment is trimmed to a substantially straight edge.
11. In a garment trimming machine of the character described, in combination means to support a garment, a circular member disposed below said garment supporting means, said circular member being of a diameter at least substantially equal to the largest lower dimension of said garment supporting means, means to revolve said garment supporting means and said member, a cutting station disposed in fixed relationship to the axis of revolution of said garment supporting means, means cooperating with said circular member to feed portions'of the garment to be trimmed to and past said cutting station at an angular speed substantially equal to the angular speed of said garment supporting means, said means comprising a belt contacting said circular member through portions of the garment being trimmed, means to move said belt at a linear speed substantially equal to the linear speed of movement of the periphery of said circular member, and means to move material to be trimmed to said feeding means, said means comprising a belt spaced away from the periphery of said circular member, and means to move said belt at a linear speed greater than the linear speed of the periphery of said circular member.
SOLOMON SHEER. VICTOR GINSBURG.
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