US236267A - Daniel t - Google Patents

Description

(Ho Model.)

B. T. SMITH.

Shoulder Pad.

N01. 236,267,. Pmmed Jan. 4*, i881.

Jivventbr mrizegs UNITED STATES PATENT ()iFrrcE.

DANIEL 'njsnrrn, 0F OINOINNATI,ontanssr'enon' OF ONE-HALF TO FEOHH-EIMER, scanner. a 00., on SAME, PLACE.

,SHOULDER-PAD.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent m.- 236,267,.dated January 4, 1881.

' Application filed Juno 3, 1880. (No nlodel.)

To all whom t'tmay concern: 1

Be-itknown that I, DANIEL T. SMITH, of Cincinnati, in the county of Hamilton and State of Ohio, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Pads for Filling Out and Giving Shape to the Shoulders ofGoats and Like Wearing-Apparel, of which the fol- -lowing is a spcci'fication.-

.It is well known that in the practice of tailoring, the shoulders of coats are commonly tilled out between the cloth and the lining with cotton wadding or similar materiabin order to compensate for defects of person or to give a shapely fit. Heretofore this work has been left tothe journeyman making up the coat,

who, being supplied with a piece of waddiug, would cut and mold it tosuit his judgment and stitch it into place as the garment progressed toward completion. This has proven objectionable, notonly onaccount of the superior skill and care required of the workman,

the draft upon his time, and the factthat he rarely knows whom he is fitting, but also on account ofthe great waste of material. the

mechanical difficulties in the way of getting the proper shape, and the almost impossibility of thus forming any two pads alike. Independent shoulder-pads of metal, or of a combination of metal and cloth, intended to be worn inside the'coat between it and the vest, have also been made. They, too, have proven objectionable, not only because of their increased cost, but since, if worn detached from any garment, they must be adjusted every time the coat is put on, or, if permanently attached, are an obstacle to packing or laying away, and since there is a greater tendency of cloth to become threadbare or shiny over a hard surface ,than over one which is soft. i ole of manufacture, asl'ioulder-pad blank built My invention consists in forming, as an artiup of cotton wadding or like material properly shaped and. proportioned, and held together 5 and protected by a covering of cheap cotton or other suitable binder, so that it maybe de livered to the journeyman ready to be applied and fixed in position. These blanks will be sent out in pairs by the cutter or fitter when sending goods to the workmen to be made up,

and I propose to manufacture them of such numbers or sizes, and of such shapes and styles,

is a bottom-plan view, the cover or hinder being removed, and Fig. 3 is an enlarged section on the line as w of Fig. 2.

I out or stamp out, from cotton wedding or ylvhatever stock may be used, a series of diminishing lifts, A B O D, of substantially the outline shown-that is, with one side, a, so slightly curved'as'to approximate a straight line, and the other side, I), quite sharply curved, the general form being that of a segment. Ialso cut from cheap cotton cloth two-coverin g-pieces;

or binders, E F, of the size and shape of the largest of the lifts, and from canvas three stitt'ening-pieces, c d c, shaped l ke but smaller than the second lift of wedding, and, like these lifts, they may be, and preferably are, of diminishing sizes. The component parts of the blank having been prepared, I take one of the covering-pieces, E, and'upon it place the largest or top piece of wa'dding, so that its edge may coincide throughout with that of the 'cover-piece. Upon this wadding is next placed one of the larger stiftening-pieces, 0, so that its shorter edge may coincide with the edge a and its longer edge be centered with the edge b of the wad'ding, and, in turn, the stiffening-piece is covered with the second lift of wedding, which is likewise matched with one underlyin g edge and centered with respect to theother. In this manner the blank is built pp alternately ofdiminishing lifts of wadding and in;

terposed stiflening-pieces, the smallest stiffen ing=piecebeing laid last and overlaid with the smallestlift, when the bottom cover-piece, F, is placed in position and the whole structure secured together by basting-stitches passing through and through, and the black is comsquare and of considerable thickness throughout nearly all its length, the thickest portion of the blank being along the center of this plete. Theshorteredge of the finished blaukis edge and over the area covered by the small est lift of wadding. 'lctween thislitt and the extreme outer edge, I), the blank gradually falls away to a thickness measured by the single. lift of wadding and the two cover-pieces at that edge.

In applying the blank to a garment the shorter and thicker edge is placed next to the seam which unites the arm to the body, so as to form a square shoulder. In use the smaller lift will be nndermost and. be overlapped by each succeeding lift; therefore there willbe no breaks on the exterior to mar the symmetry.

The blank may be stitched over a block, so as to have at the outset the approximate shape of a shoulder; but I prefer to form it flat, as

shown, that it may have more stifiness and' resiliency. I tmay be formed of cotton wadding manipulated into proper shapeand held together by cover-pieces and through-and-through stitches, though this I do not consider so cheap or reliable. It may also, as already stated, assume modified sizes or forms to suit varying conditions or contingencies. Such modifications can readily be produced by slight and obvious changes in the number, shape, or arrangement of the lifts.

It is evident that with blanksjof the construction described less special skill will be requiredin the journeyman, and the execution of his work greatly-facilitated both as to time and as to labor. Waste, also, in this particular feature can be reduced to aminimum,since the stock for the blanks can be cut to the greatest ad van tage and all waste scraps worked into them.

I claim as my invention- 1, A shoulder-padblank of essentiallv the form shown and set forth, of tapering thickness from its outer edge, composed of soft and flexible material, and adapted to be inserted. bodily and permanently secured in place in the process of making up the garment, substantially as described.

2. A shoulder-pad blank shaped substantially as described, formed of cotton wadding with covering-pieces of cloth, held in shape by stitches through and through the covers and wadding, and adapted to be inserted bodily and permanently secured in place in the process of making up the garment.

3. The shoulder-pad blank built up of diminishing" lifts of cotton wadding, with interposed stiiicning-pieces and a suitable cover, and united by stitches passing through, substantially as described.

DAN. T. SMITH.

\Vitnesses: 1

JOSEPH G. PARKINSON, DANL. KELLY.

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