US2265808A - Shirt having an attached collar - Google Patents

Description

Dec. 9, 1941. M. JACOBI 2,265,808

SHIRT HAVING AN ATTACHED COLLAR Filed April 3, 1940 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR ATTORNEYS Dec. 9, 1941.

SHIRT HAVING AN ATTACHED comm Filed April 5, 1940 '2 Sheefs-Sheet 2 :7 70 NVENTOR' 3&3" nd w \1 ATTORNEYS 1 M. JACOBI 2,265,808"

Patented Dec. 9, 1941 "T" i UNITED S This invention relates to a shirt having an attached collar and more particularly to a shirt which opens down the front and has a turn down collar,. the ends of the collar band being fastened together by suitable fasteners and the front ends of the turn down part of the collar being spaced to receive the knot of a necktie, the necktie usually being tied with a four-in-hand knot.

The principal object of the invention is to provide such a shirt with an attached turn down collar in which the upper front ends of the collar band are so formed as to be drawn together by the tightening of the necktie independently of. the lower part of the neck band so as to fit snugly against the neck of the wearer by the adjustment of the necktie itself and to insure a comfortable fit and neat appearance of the collar regardless of whether the tie is tied with a large knot or with a small knot or regardless of whether the tie is drawn up loosely or tightly.

Another object of the invention is to provide such an attached collar with its neck band so formed that the drawing up of the tie insures a neat and comfortable fit of the collar regardless of whether the collar band is oversize or undersize, this avoiding the difficulties frequently experienced in the retail selling of shirts since it is impossible in the manufacture of mens shirts to keep the sizes of the collar bands to exact measurements.

Another object of the invention is to provide such a collar band, the ends of which are held together by any of the usual and well known types of fasteners and at the same time achieving the above flexibility in the fit of the collar band.

Another object of the invention is to provide such an attached turn down collar in which the front ends of the collar band are so formed as to provide a generally horizontal shoulder which supports the knot of the tie and prevents it from dropping to an unsightly position.

Another object of the invention is to provide a turn down attached collar, the collar band of which is so constructed at its front end that the collar band is completely concealed by the necktie thereby to avoid the usual unsightly appearance of the upper edge of the collar band which is visible over the top of the tie in shirts as now constructed.

Another object of the invention is to provide a collar band which is so reinforced as to prevent the collar from drooping in front and is also so reinforced as to restrict any wrinkling of the collar band in tying a tie to the rear of the collar band where it is not noticed.-

such a shirt and attached collar which can be produced at no greater cost than collar attached shirts as now on the market.

In the accompanying drawings:

Fig. 1 is a fragmentary front elevation of a shirt having an attached collar made in accordance with my invention.

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary top plan view thereof.

Fig. 3 is a diminutive view of the inside of the collar and shirt showing the same spread fiat for the purpose of illustration.

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary enlarged vertical section taken on line 4-4, Fig. 1.

Figs. 5 and 6 are fragmentary enlarged vertical sections taken on the correspondingly munbered lines of Fig. 3.

Fig. '7 is a diminutive perspective view of the collar dissociated from the collar band and showing the manner in which its inner portion is formed to prevent drooping of the collar in the front and to restrict wrinkling of the collar band to the rear of the collar band.

The invention is illustrated as embodied in a shirt having a cloth body Ill which is open at its front throughout its height, and with the portions H and [2 of the body at the front opening constructed of double thickness of cloth and lapped one over the other a relatively great distance, and provided, respectively, with buttonholes l3 and buttons l4. At its back the body it) is provided with a cloth reinforcement l5 for strengthening the shirt across the shoulders, and the front panels of the shirt at opposite sides of said front opening can also be provided with cloth reinforcing layers, as indicated at l6 and I1. At its upper end the shirt terminates in an unfinished edge IS which extends around the neck of the wearer and to which the collar is attached. J

The collar band l9 comprises an inner strip 20 of cloth, the upper and lower edges of which are folded around the upper and lower edges of a reinforcing stiffening strip 2| and an outer strip 22 of cloth, the upper and lower edges of which are turned over to provide a finished exterior edge. The lower edges of these strips of cloth are secured to the unfinished edge I8 of the shirt body by a line of stitching 23, as best illustrated in Figs. 5 and 6.

The outer part 24 of the turn down collar is made of inner and outer layers 25, 26 of cloth arranged on opposite sides of a reinforcing layer 21. This outer part of the collar is shown as shaped at its front ends to provide downwardly extending points 28 which extend over the front of the body portion of the shirt and its several plies can be secured together at the lower and front edges of the collar by a line of stitching 29.

The collar is folded over at its upper edge to provide an inner part 30, which inner part is interposed between the inner and outer plies 20, 22 of the collar band and is preferably sewed in place by two lines of stitching 3!, 32. This inner part 30 of the collar is specially formed to support the front of the collar in proper position and also to restrict any wrinkling of the collar band to its rear part where it will not be visible. For this purpose the inner part 30 of. the collar is of comparatively low height at its center or rear but is of increasing height. toward its opposite front ends, these ends each terminating in a point 33 arranged adjacent the unfinished upper edge [8 of the shirt body II], as best illustrated in Fig. 6. Each of these reinforcing points 33 of the inner part 30 of the collar is preferably secured in place by a line 34 of stitching. By this arrangement it will be noted that the collar band is providedat its front end portions with a full vertical reinforcement by the inner part 30 of the collar as illustrated along the line 66 in Fig. 3 so that the points 28 of the collar are prevented from drooping. At the same time by the tapering of this inner part 36 of the collar to the comparatively low height at its center as illustrated along the line 5 in Fig. 3, the collar band is not reinforced at its rear so that any wrinkling of the collar band when the tie is drawn tight occurs at the rear of the collar band where it is concealed by the outer part 24 of the collar.

At its front the ends of the outer part 24 of the collar are spaced a substantial distance from one another to accommodate the knot of the tie (not shown). At the front the ends of the collar band also overlap in the usual manner and are shown as fastened together near the lower part of the collar band by a snap fastener having male and female parts 35, 36-, although it will be understood that any other type of fastener, such as an ordinary button and buttonhole, can be employed.

The principal feature of the present invention resides in the shaping of the front ends of the collar band l9. Thus, it will, be noted that the overlapping front parts of the collar band are deeply notched, as indicated at 3'1, the side edges 38, 39 of this notch being substantially vertically disposed and the lower edges 40, 4| formed in the overlapping portions of the collar band in providing this notch being substantially horizontally disposed and. these edges 40, 4| being arranged immediately adjacent the top of the fastener 35, 36 and approximately midway of the height of the collar band.

In use the shirt is put on and buttoned up in th usual manner, the ends of the collar being attached together by closing the snap fasteners 35, 36. The wearer then places the tie under the collar and forms a knot. between the front ends of the collar. On tightening the tie the knot is drawn up between the upper front parts of the collar band and the upper part of the collar band is drawn snugly around the neck of the wearer to any degree of tightness that the wearer may desire. If the tie is tied with a large knot the upper front corners of the collar band are not drawn together to the same extent as if the tie is tied with a small knot and hence it will be seen that regardless of the type of knot or tie employed, the upper front corners of the collar are drawn snugly to the sides of the knot so as to provide a neat appearance. Further, if the collar is somewhat oversize or somewhat undersize, the employment of the notch 31 provides the necessary flexibility in the upper part of the collar band independent of its lower part so that the front and top of the collar are drawn neatly against the neck of the wearer and against the sides of the knot in spite of the fact that the collar may not be carefully fitted to the size of the neck of the wearer. By the provision of this notch 33, the knot of the tie is drawn against the neck of the wearer and it will therefore be seen that the upper edges of the collar band are entirely concealed and hence do not present the unfinished appearance found in the usual shirt where the upper edge of the collar band is continued at the front in a straight line. Further, the horizontal edges All and 41 forming the bottom of the notch 31 provide a horizontal shoulder on which the knot is tied and which serves to support the knot and prevent it from slipping down into an unsightly drooping position. in which the upper edges of the collar band are further exposed.

By the provision of the arcuate shaped reinforcing inner part 30 of the collar it will be seen that th front of the collar band is adequately supported so as to prevent the front of the collar from drooping and at the same time any wrinkling of the collar band, when, for example, an oversize collar band is used, will be restricted to the rear of the collar band which is, of course, completely concealed.

From the foregoing it will be seen that the present invention provides a collar construction in which th collar is neatly drawn against the sides of the knot of the necktie and snugly against the neck of the wearer regardless of whether a large knot or a small knot is tied and regardless of whether or not the collar is over or undersize. It will further be seen that the upper edge of the collar band at the front of the collar is completely concealed by the knot of the ti so as to avoid the unsightly appearance of the upper edges of the collar band and at the same time these edges provide a shoulder which prevents the knot of the tie from slipping down. It will further be seen that with the collar construction shown adequate provision is made to prevent drooping of the front of the collar and at the same time provision is made so that any wrinkling occurring in tightening the necktie is restricted to the concealed rear part of the collar band where such wrinkling cannot be seen.

I claim as my invention:

1. A shirt, comprising a cloth shirt body open at its front and having a neck opening, a collar band having substantially vertical front ends, an extension of substantially less height than the height of said collar band. extending horizontally from the lower part of at least one of said ends of said collar band, means for securing the lower edge of said collar band and said extensionto the edge of said shirt body at said neck opening, a fastener fast to said extension, a second fastener fast to the lower front part of said opposite end of said collar band and cooperating with said first fastener to secure the ends of saidv collar band together and said fasteners being so located as to hold said ends of said collar band in widely spaced relation, and a turndown collar secured to the upper edge of said collar band and overlaying said collar band, the front ends of said collar terminating at the front ends of said collar band.

2. A shirt, comprising a cloth shirt body open at its front and having a neck opening, a collar band having substantially vertical front ends, an extension of substantially less height than the height of said collar band extending horizontally from the lower part of at least one of said ends of said collar band, means for securing the lower edge of said collar band and said extension to the edge of said shirt body at said neck opening, a fastener fast to said extension, a second fastener fast to the lower front part of said opposite end of said collar band and cooperating with said first fastener to secure the ends of said collar band together and said fasteners being so located as to hold said ends of said collar band in widely spaced relation and thereby provide a deep, broad, open front notch extending downwardly from the upper edge of said collar band to the upper edge of said extension to permit the tightening of a necktie around the collar band to draw the upper parts of said ends of said collar band together independently of the secured lower parts thereof and the upper edge of said extension'providing a shoulder to support the knot of the necktie, and a turndown collar secured to the upper edge of said collar band and overlaying said collar band, the front ends of said collar terminating at the front ends of said collar band.

3. A shirt, comprising a cloth shirt body open at its front and having a neck opening, a collar band having substantially vertical front ends, an extension having horizontal, parallel upper and lower edges and being of substantially less height than the height of said collar band extending horizontally from the lower part of at least one of said ends of said collar band, means for securing the lower edge of said collar band and said extension to the edge of said shirt body at said neck opening, a fastener fast to said extension, a second fastener fast to the lower front part of said opposite end of said collar band and coopcrating with said first fastener to secure the ends of said collar band together, and said fasteners being so located as to hold said ends of said collar band in widely spaced relation and thereby provide a deep, broad, open front notch extending downwardly from the upper edge of said collar band to the upper edge of said extension to permit the tightening of a necktie around the collar band to draw the upper parts of said ends of said collar band together independently of the secured lower parts thereof and the upper edge of said extension providing a shoulder to support the knot of the necktie, and a turndown collar secured to the upper edge of said collar band and overlaying said collar band, the front ends of said collar terminating at the front ends of said collar band.

4. A shirt, comprising a cloth shirt body open at its front and having a neck opening, a collar band having substantially vertical front ends, an extension of substantially less height than the height of said collar band extending horizontally from the lower part of each of said ends of said collar band, means for securing the lower edge of said collar band and said extensions to the edge of said shirt body at said neck opening, a fastener fast to one of said extensions, a fastener fast to the other of said extensions and cooperating with said first fastener to secure the ends of said collar band together and said fasteners being so located as to hold said ends of said collar band in widely spaced relation, and a turndown collar secured to the upper edge of said collar band and overlaying said collar band, the front ends of said collar terminating at the front ends of said collar band.

5. A shirt, comprising a cloth shirt body open at its front and having a neck opening, a collar band having substantially vertical front ends, an extension having horizontal, parallel upper and lower edges and being of substantially less height than the height of said collar band extending horizontally from the lower part of each of said ends of said collar band with its lower edge forming a continuation of the lower edge of said neck band, means for securing the lower edge of said collar band and said extensions to the edge of said shirt body at said neck opening, a fastener fast to one of said extensions, a fastener fast to the other of said extensions and cooperating with said first fastener to secure the ends of said collar band together and said fasteners being so located as to hold said ends of said collar band in widely spaced relation and the upper edges of said extensions in register with each other and thereby provide a deep, broad, open front notch extending downwardly from the upper edge of said collar band to the upper registering edges of said extensions to permit the tightening of a necktie around the collar band to draw the upper parts of said ends of said collar band together independently of the secured lower parts thereof and the upper edges of said extensions jointly providing a shoulder to support the knot of the necktie, and a turndown collar secured to the upper edge of said collar band and overlaying said collar band, the front ends of said collar terminating at the front ends of said collar band. 6. A shirt, comprising a cloth shirt body open at its front and having a neck opening, a collar band having substantially vertical front ends, an extension having horizontal, parallel upper and lower edges and being of approximately half the height of said collar band extending horizontally from the lower part of each of said ends of said collar band with its lower edge forming a continuation of the lower edge of said neckband, means for securing the lower edge of said collar band and said extensions to the edge of said shirt body at said neck opening, a fastener fast to one of said extensions, a fastener fast to the other of said extensions and cooperating with said first fastener to secure the ends of said collar band together and said fasteners being so located as to hold said ends of said collar band in widely spaced relation and the upper edges of said extensions in register with each other and thereby provide a deep, broad, open front notch extending downwardly from the upper edge of said collar band to the upper registering edges of said extensions to permit the tightening of a necktie around the collar band to draw the upper parts of said ends of said collar band together independently of the secured lower parts thereof and the upper edges of said extensions jointly providing a shoulder to support the knot of the necktie, and a turndown collar secured to the upper edge of said collar band and overlying said collar band, the front ends of said collar terminating at the front ends of said collar band.

MARTIN JACOBI.

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